bridal crown

ninebulanJanuary 28, 2009


one of my aunt gave us a pot of bridal crown narcissus as a gift for CNY. the base looks like a couple of onions and the flowers are so pretty i'd like to grow it... or at least have them as long as possible...

is there a chance this plant will survive in Jakarta, where the weather can reach up to 30 celcius? do i need to move them to a bigger pot? is it okay if i seperate the bulbus?

i found from the net that this is a perennial plant and is grown from bulbs. the problem is that i have zero experience with bulbs. i need anyone who can teach me how to grow things from bulbs....

errr... where does bulb come from? and .... what should i do after it blooms? i don't really know what to ask... i'm just....



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ontnative(5b Can/USDA 4)

Bridal Crown is often forced for pot culture here, but it should be alright if you plant it in your garden. I think it is one variety that doesn't need a cold period in winter in order to bloom again in the spring. It can be planted in US Zone 9, e.g. Florida or California. Our summer temp.(near Toronto, Canada) also goes up to 30 celcius, but it may go down to minus 25 celcius in the winter, too. Plants that have been forced for indoor bloom don't always bloom very well for a couple of years afterwards, until the bulbs have built up their energy again. The bulbs can be separated if you wish before planting, but don't expect flowers from the smallest bulbs until they grow larger. Fertilize them once in a while, too.

Here is a link that might be useful: Narcissus Bridal Crown

    Bookmark   January 31, 2009 at 11:21AM
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vetivert8(NI-NZ zone 9a)

If your bulbs are flowering now then they might have been imported from Europe. Southern Hemiphere flowering time/s are from July onward.

If you can, plant them into the ground rather than in a pot. They love to pull themselves deeply into the ground (no matter what the instructions on the packet tell them!) and protect themselves from the heat/dry in this way.

When they have finished flowering take them out of the pot and plant them into the garden soil. It is very likely you will see a mass of white roots all swirled around in the pot. DO NOT DISTURB. (They are easily snapped.)

Dig over a patch of soil in an area that doesn't get boggy but does receive good rainfall. In the freshly loosened soil mix in some tomato fertiliser at the rate suggested on the packet. Plant the bulbs so that the soil covers the tops of the bulbs. An area in full sun or with afternoon shade is usually fine.

Keep the plants watered once each week until the leaves start to look yellow and limp, if your rainfall is infrequent. Then stop watering. Natural rainfall is fine. Leave the foliage to die back naturally. It can look untidy. If it is annoying to you put in a foliage support hoop while you can still see the bulbs at planting time (so you don't skewer them inadvertently...)

There usually needs to be at least 2"/5cm soil over the top of the bulb. It is safe to mulch over the top and they will grow through a covering of chipped bark or gravel.

If you can, leave them undisturbed for several years. The bulbs usually grow bigger and increase through growing 'offsets' - smaller bulbs beside the main bulb and joined at the bottom.

If you can feed them a bucket of good compost each year (put it on while the bulbs are dormant) then that will be enough.

Expect them to start showing little green nubs above the soil in the cooler months. The leaves come first and the buds will appear in the middle of a tuft of leaves, pushing up to form a stalk before they open just as you have now.

You might get just leaves in the next 'spring' season. Be patient. Even if they have not been forced they sometimes take a year or two to settle in before they resume flowering.

    Bookmark   February 2, 2009 at 5:28AM
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