Landscape Border what do use?

mjm_njFebruary 14, 2011

I had a landscaper do some beds and planting two years ago. He was a friend of my brother in-law and was helpful in explaining what I should do to maintain it. Last year I added mulch and recut the outline of the beds with a shovel as he had showed me although he recommended a special tool. I think I did ok, but the lines I cut in the ground didn't hold up as well as they did the first year when they did it, grass and weeds started creeping up. I asked him about using something to trim the outline of the beds and he said not to bother. I don't really want stone or those block trim. I see they have these rubberized,asphalt or plastic strips that you can jam in the ground and shape to the beds. Would they work well or is what I am doing the best unless I want to use the stone. can suggestions are much appreciated.

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
gardengal48

Yeah, they work. IMO, not a great look but I'm not a fan of plastic in the garden. The only time I use edging is to contain a paved area and its underlayment. And it can make it difficult to mow if they are not installed flush with the lawn.

I much prefer to edge manually but it does require some extra maintenance. First, it needs to be done more often than just once a season......depending on the type of turf grass, perhaps as often as every third or fourth mowing (or monthly). And it helps if the tool you use is very sharp. I use something called a lawn shark that is apparently no longer made but a straight edged spade or shovel works just as well, as long as it is kept sharpened. Shove it straight down along the lawn edge 4-6 inches, then mound the soil/mulch back towards the planting bed, creating a small trench. The trench will keep the grass roots from migrating and contain any mulch.

    Bookmark   February 19, 2011 at 10:36AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
theresa2(z5)

I'm not sure from your post how the landscaper told you to cut the outline, but here's how I do it. I dig a trench about four inches wide by four inches deep, then I hard pack shredded mulch into the trench filled to grade. This slows the migration of weeds into the planting bed and allows for easy mowing. At least once a year you'll want to pull weeds that have migrated into the trench. Replace mulch as it breaks down.

    Bookmark   February 19, 2011 at 10:58AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sunnyca_gw

I have brick laid in cement in front. Easy to mow right up to it. In back I have that & I added a mini rose garden & I used some about 10 in. wide edging in brown & got at Home Depot & it works fairly well, still have to do some hand edging but it works it's way down in the soil so I've had to go along & dig it up & move it up a couple of times in last several years. Doesn't keep grass out as well as brick or stone in cement tho. Even they will get some grass in as birds & other critters move through & have seeds on them or wind blows it in. Can't win. Good Luck

    Bookmark   February 20, 2011 at 1:29AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

If you edge manually as gardengal48 suggests (and I agree) a better tool than a shovel or spade is a half moon edging iron. Once it's done you can maintain it with edging shears for at least a season. It shouldn't need constantly redoing, only once a year or so. But, of course, it does depend on your lawn grass and whether it is a real creeper.

This is a bit of a matter of taste. I'm used to UK gardens where there is almost always a clear sharp edge between lawn and bed defined by a 3" vertical edged V shaped gully. This stops the lawn invading the bed and the bed washing onto the lawn. Consequently I can't get away from the feeling that a bed on the same level as the lawn, unless there is a brick or stone mowing strip is a bit of a mess. But that's just a cultural thing.

Here is a link that might be useful: Edging a lawn

    Bookmark   February 20, 2011 at 11:46AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
mjm_nj

Thanks for all the help and the link, the landscaper told me to do exactly as gardengal48 described. He did say there was a tool, but a shovel will work. Maybe I need to try again and get the proper tool. The trim I was looking as wasn't plastic it was maybe an inch thick and I think it was asphault or rubberized something... Last summer was rough trying to get the hang of things. The property is very old the lawn is probably mostly weeds or undesirable grass that does creep quickly. I have been trying to rehab what is already here and ad new things at the same time. This year am going to try to get the lawn going and get my Privet hedge back to muster. Can I ask what you guys do in the spring when you redo your beds. Last year I redid the lines of the bed with a shovel, then I sprinkled preen over the beds to try to cut down on the weeds and I added maybe a little over an inch or two of new mulch over the old.

    Bookmark   February 21, 2011 at 9:49AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
whitecap

Perhaps I don't grasp the problem, but couldn't you sink metal edging along the contours of the beds, leaving it perhaps an inch or so above the soil? It wouldn't be very visible, and your weedeater would make short work of the grass trying to creep over the edging.

My beds are edged with river rock. Looks nice, but the grass creeping through the spaces between the rocks and into the beds is very hard to reach. I'm going to sink a metal edging against the rock. I've seen it installed, and it doesn't look all that difficult.

    Bookmark   February 21, 2011 at 3:13PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
mjm_nj

I have not seen metal edging. but that was the idea, just something to hold the shape and keep the grass at bay that isn't to noticable.

    Bookmark   February 21, 2011 at 9:40PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
whitecap

Steel edging is priced at BigBox at about $1.20 a linear foot. You can get some tips on instruction at the Col-Met website. The hardest part is probably cutting it to the length you need, but I'm thinking that can be avoided by overlapping, if necessary.

    Bookmark   February 22, 2011 at 8:21AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
steelplayer

Here is some natural steel edging I used in a couple of spots. Used a local steel supplier to have it sheared to size and layed it in. So far it looks great. I have used it all over the place but only have this pic.

Here is a link that might be useful:

    Bookmark   February 22, 2011 at 10:07AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
slama.wbgarden

Do you know Invisible curb? It is plastic but very good, very easy installation.

Here is a link that might be useful: garden design galery

    Bookmark   February 23, 2011 at 5:24AM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Rock landscape dilema
Hello, So I'm taking on a big project within the next...
johncharles1923
Need help with landscaping my front hillside
I need some help with landscaping my front hillside....
dabeevm25
Help with small retaining wall
I am starting to landscape my yard and am having trouble...
jminternelia
Help! My new front yard is UGLY! Any ideas appreciated!
Do I keep the stone flower bed edge? I was told it...
amynatashahowell
Feedback on my design/plans?
In a previous thread I asked for general suggestions...
Kristin
Sponsored Products
Avignon 19 Inch High Wall Bracket -Swedish Iron
$66.31 | Bellacor
Tennessee Volunteers Light Show Garden Flag
$19.99 | zulily
Nourison Indoor/Outdoor Area Rug: Nourison Rugs Modesto Squares Red 7 ft. 10
Home Depot
Radiax 2700K 35-Degree 4-Watt LED Black Flood Light
Lamps Plus
Addison ross 15mm curved silver plated frames
Origin Crafts
Nourison Area Rug: Modesto Vines Black 5' 3" x 7' 3"
$78.97 | Home Depot
E27 16W 3360LM 84LED SMD 5730 LED Corn Bulb
ParrotUncle
Radiax 3000K 10-Degree 6.5-Watt LED Rich Bronze Spot Light
Lamps Plus
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™