so excited got my first gritty mix all together...got my clivia, amaryllis, aloe vera in the mix. and my foliage pro came so its all a go!!!
5-1-1 I take it?
There looks to be a significant amount of particles that are larger than 1/2 inch.
Any chance you can remove those large pieces?
It does have a lot of large particles in it, but I think you'll be well pleased with how it works. If you like it, you can always figure out how to remove the larger particles & use them as mulch for your beds. Also, eliminating the larger particles is actually going to improve aeration and increase water retention.
Make sure the soil is already damp (its tendency toward being water repellent nullified) when you plant in it so you can avoid the initial difficulty wetting any soil where bark and/or peat make up the largest fraction. There is a thread over on the container gardening forum, offering the lament that a brand of soil recently discussed at great length here is resisting absorbency in the extreme.
Good luck - keep us posted ...... you added the dolomitic lime to the soil - yes?
I am picking out the big particles and some I leave to stand the plant the way I want until root establishment.
Yes Dolomitic lime 1 tbsp per gallon :). It was clumped in places and had to beat the begeebers out of it to get to right particle size.
So again I ask will the world end if I start repotting in my mix...love the soilless mix...no dirt under the nails, not a bunch of dirt clumped on the roots, I rinsed alot of roots.
I also soaked the soil first planted and fertilized with 1/4 tsp. Per gallon of foliage pro. When do you increase your foliage pro to 1/2 tsp. Per gallon...around end of march?
I will probably use what soil I have for my wintersowing projects.
Josh I realized and was posting at the same time you was letting me know which soil I prepared...lol what can I say it was late :)
The half inch suggestion is helpful thanks.
No worries! ;-)
I usually wait about two weeks before I resume fertilizing newly re-potted plants.
Earlier today, Al wrote that he would wait one week before fertilizing at a reduced rate.
So what are the repercussions of fertilizing too soon
It's known that roots colonize soils low in fertility more rapidly than soils that are fertile. I usually DO recommend 2 weeks before fertilizing - don't remember the post Josh mentioned or why I might have suggested a week in that particular instance, but I have good reason to trust his memory. ;-) Don't worry, it's a small issue - one you can file away in the memory banks for future use.
I've mentioned before, how amazing it is that a certain tidbit or seemingly useless piece of information you acquired and filed away in the back of your mind, can surface, sometimes years later as a very important part of a solution or as something much more valuable than you originally gave credit for. It happens to me all the time. Usually, I go, "Huh!". ;-)
Al, it was in response to Tecnico's Peace Lily re-potting.
Perhaps it's because he's in such a warm climate?
Yes - being so much closer to the equator makes a big difference in what you can do as far as repotting (timing) and other significant work. Plus, we got a chance to look at the roots on his plant(s).
Well I couldn't stand it been reporting flowers all day lol...so hope all goes well :)
I want to officially say ...I hate when my internet is down and I have to post VIA my smartphone...who's spellcheck is not so SMART and the double post makes me look not so smart...ugghhhhhh!!! Only had to fix one word in that sentence...yeah!!! Okay enough said on that subject :(
I made up about twelve gallons of 5:1:1 and have used all but just a tiny bit...so now we shall wait and see how well this soilless mix does...I am pretty excited especially for my cati and succulents!!!
I know al waters on a 3 day schedule, could others tell me how often they water using this mix, I generally watered weekly before the mix.
When I reported a lot of the flowers are now in drainable pots sit into my pretty pots...decided it was more work but much better for my plants and I can actually remove them, take them to sink and give them a good bath :). Much easier way to dust.them! There are still a pothos and spiderplant in non draining pots but they are doing great and will stay as they are...I have always watered them with tap water...sometimes it has been sitting in gallon jug and sometimes I would just refill and use immediately, either way those two plants seem to tolerate it well.
Still have lots to repot but going to give it awhile to see how my newly repotted plants acclamate to this new soilless mix...reports to follow :)
I water most plants in the gritty mix on a 3 day rotation. It sounds like you're growing in the 5:1:1 m ix or similar, which should allow you longer intervals between waterings. I'd suggest you monitor your plants' water needs with wooden skewers until you get a feel for when they're about to go dry.
This is something I posted on the bonsai forum a while back:
Many years ago, in a bonsai workshop led by a famous Japanese master (Ben Oki), one of the participants asked a question: "How often should I water my juniper, Mr. Oki?" His (Mr. Oki's) expression never changed at all as he answered in his heavily Japanese accented English, "Wait until plant become completely dry - then water day before." To this day, I'm not sure if he was serious or it was his brand of humor, but the advice is sound for most plant material.
Water your plants on an 'as needed' basis. Best way: When the soil is nearly dry, water slowly & evenly until a tiny bit of water runs from the drain holes, allow them to rest for a few minutes, then water again, applying less water than the first time - just enough to flush accumulating salts from the soil. This will be about 10-20% of the total volume of water applied in both applications.
At first, use a chopstick (skewer) stuck into the soil to tell you how damp the soil is. If the stick is dark or wet, don't water. If it's damp or dry - water. Heft your pots often if your plants are small. Soon, you'll be able to tell by their weight what plants need water. Over-watering carries different but just as serious consequences as under-watering, so try your best to avoid both. Given a choice, it's better to under-water by a little than over-water.
If you think your soil is too water-retentive to allow you to flush the soil every time you water, your soil is inappropriate. Using a wick, and tilting your pots at a 45* angle after watering are BOTH very helpful ways to drain excess water from too-heavy soils. Let me know if you need/want this explained.