Dragon palm

Cmoores1July 18, 2014

I am just getting 5 of these beauties today and am wondering if they are root bound, but I want to keep them in the same pot, is root pruning OK? If so, how much should I cut?

Also can they be left outside (after hardening of course) as long as there is no frost?

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MsGreenFinger GW(8 Ireland)

A photo or two would be very helpful along with some other info on your plants (size, type of soil, your location etc). I googled the word 'dragon palm' and got at least 3 different plants as result.
Some expert may come with useable info on root pruning but they will also ask for a pic..

MsGreen

    Bookmark   July 18, 2014 at 1:43PM
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Cmoores1

Included my foot to show size. (size 6.5 women) bottom of of says 4 1/8".But this is it. All five look the same. I am going to go up in size for a few pots, but would like to keep a couple in the same size for the location. So Back to my question of root pruning.

I live in Ontario, Canada. Not sure zone. But would I be able to harden these and put them outside for a while?

    Bookmark   July 18, 2014 at 2:49PM
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Cmoores1

Also known as Madagascar dragon tree I think.

    Bookmark   July 18, 2014 at 2:54PM
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dbarron(z7_Arkansas)

Dracaena marginata (or something similar), strictly houseplant much north of Florida. You can find recommended care by googling it.

    Bookmark   July 18, 2014 at 2:54PM
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Cmoores1

I can't find any info online about root pruning. So I gave them each a light prune and we will see.

    Bookmark   July 18, 2014 at 3:34PM
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tropicbreezent

Dracaenas grow very easily from cuttings so I guess root pruning shouldn't be a problem. They like a lot of light but as with most plants you shouldn't move them from a shaded environment into full sun suddenly.

    Bookmark   July 18, 2014 at 5:53PM
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Tiffany, purpleinopp GardenWeb, Z8b Opp, AL(8B AL)

Late to the party, but yes to all of your questions. Plants should do well!

Before:

    Bookmark   July 25, 2014 at 2:45PM
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Tiffany, purpleinopp GardenWeb, Z8b Opp, AL(8B AL)

(The bag of stuff is for ground gardening, not pots.)

After:

    Bookmark   July 25, 2014 at 2:46PM
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Tiffany, purpleinopp GardenWeb, Z8b Opp, AL(8B AL)

AFTER after (the bottom one on the right, 18 mos later, planted as a group with 2 others):

    Bookmark   July 25, 2014 at 2:51PM
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Cmoores1

I put these in my deck where they get sun from about 3-7pm. I am getting more brown edging on my leaves, and they look poor. Should they be in bright shade?

    Bookmark   August 27, 2014 at 5:16PM
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Photo Synthesis

It could be from the water you're using. I'm not entirely sure about D. marginata, since I don't have that variety, but other types of Dracaenas can be sensitive to the Chlorine and/or Fluoride in ordinary tap water. So for all of my Dracaenas, I use rainwater to water them.

I doubt that it's because of too much sunlight. If that were the case, then more than just the tips of the leaves would be turning brown.

    Bookmark   August 28, 2014 at 6:01AM
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Tiffany, purpleinopp GardenWeb, Z8b Opp, AL(8B AL)

Agreed. Distilled or condensate from dehumidifier are other sources of water w/o added chems. If the soil is staying too moist, that could be contributing to the tipping.

    Bookmark   August 28, 2014 at 7:14AM
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Cmoores1

OK, I will use rainwater or let my tap water sit for a day before using it (we don't have fluoride), that should help. Thank you

    Bookmark   August 28, 2014 at 7:15AM
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Tiffany, purpleinopp GardenWeb, Z8b Opp, AL(8B AL)

Glad to share info. I use tap water mostly during winter too, but letting it sit won't allow non-volatile forms of chlorination to evaporate, or lime, which can alter the soil PH. Coming to room temp is good. Whenever you can catch some rain, there's nothing better than that (and will help mitigate the effects of whatever's in the tap that plants might not like.)

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 4:46PM
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rooftopbklyn

Also, while said above, I'll say it again : dracaena's love full sun, but they need to be slowly conditioned to it when moving from inside/dimmer conditions. It's best to move them outside in spring once it's warm enough, and to start them off with only an hour or 2 a day.

I've done a bad job of this myself at times, and had them drop a majority of their leaves in only a few days of full sun - but if you do it in spring, there's plenty of time for them to bounce back, which they do quite nicely. It's always a challenge for me, since my outdoor growing area is on a roof with very little shade available.

Moving them outside now, if they were previously indoor or greenhouse grown will require a bit more care because you don't have that much time for them to recover if necessary.

When I had issues with water caused by chlorine (NOT chloramine, though they may have similar affects, i can't say), I did not have leaves turning crispy or brown - that sounds like too much sun too fast to me. They started to get yellowish spots and discoloration - leaving my water to sit for 24 hours fixed this (but supposed letting water sit has no effect if your water has chloramine rather than chlorine).

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 6:56PM
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Cmoores1

Well let me tell you, I have fungus gnats. I have found larvae in my soil. I put on dracaena in a bucket and soaked in water over night, to find in the morning a bunch of lifeless bodies floating! I only am infested in 2 of 5 plants, so that's good.

Could that be what is doing the damage?

    Bookmark   September 1, 2014 at 8:23AM
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Tiffany, purpleinopp GardenWeb, Z8b Opp, AL(8B AL)

CM, FG's like conditions that make Dracaenas ill, generally. When you are able to, repotting should get rid of the FG's. Using a soil mix that is much more chunky will help prevent their return.

To get rid of the FG's in your current pot, if repotting isn't an option in the near future, you can soak mosquito dunks in the water you give your plant.

    Bookmark   September 5, 2014 at 9:30AM
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Cmoores1

I repotted all of them. I didn't like the idea of dead bodies in my plant.
I will definitely be more cconscious of the soil

    Bookmark   September 6, 2014 at 7:05PM
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