I have a Toro SR and it's about 7 months old. I can't get the bolt to budge at all. Is it a reverse thread? Thread locking compound? Super torqued from the factory? What am I doing wrong here?
The bolt removes the normal way lefty loosey, righty tighty. Apply some penetrating oil to the bolt, and give it hell. What I always do is remove the spark plug for safety concerns first. Then I apply penetrating oil like I just said and let it soak for a bit. When its time to remove the blade I use my steel toe boots to hold the blade still with my foot and then loosen the bolt by pulling the wrench to me and not pushing it away. Its possible you may need a longer wrench or breaker bar for more leverage. Plus you could always just forget all of the and use an air impact wrench if you have a compresser. Good day
Thanks Justin. PBlaster is soaking as we speak. I always remove the spark plug wire. I was using my shoe to hold the blade, and I gave it everything I had. It didn't budge, and I started to wonder if it was a reverse thread, and i was tightening it!
Might I add a nice solid block of wood would hold the blade steady as well and may be a bit easier on your body.
I volunteered to sharpen the blade on an elderly neighbors mower that was 1 year old. It took 2 people and a 2 foot cheater bar to get the blade bolt loose.
After letting the PBlaster soak over night, I'm now waiting for my friend to show up with his bigger breaker bar, and an additional 200 pounds of leverage. I was a bit embarresed to post it, until I saw it's happened to others!
My Toro SR 20038 came off pretty easy - just put the sharpend-balanced blade back on Sunday - definately smoothed it out a bit. That was the first time I removed it since I bought 5+ years ago.
I've failed as a man! I've had two friends over to help. one even brought air tools, and the blade bolt will not loosen! I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow.
So, what is the final diagnosis/solution. I would like to know in case I run up against the same problem in the future.
I ended up taking it to the shop, and They had to use a heavy duty air gun. It still took them a while to loosen it.
Wow. Never seen one that bad. They make nut splitters for that problem too.
From the sounds of it they used locktite instead of anti-sieze compound at the factory. My Toro has crap loads of anti-sieze on its bold
Anti seize and a new blade bolt is in order. I've seen a few commercial Toro's get cranked on so tight they won't come off. That you chalk up to lots of on/off by crazed landscapers tho . . . I'd look for initials and a smiley face under the deck from the crazed Friday afternoon assembler who locked it on. Crazed people from Tomah anyways. . . :)
Hercules couldn't remove the nuts without losing a couple himself! A simple 30 minute process can't be accomplished because Toro doesn't listen to consumers with regards to this complaint.
I have always had good success using a 1 foot long piece of 2x4, a 5/8" 6-point box end wrench and a short piece of pipe.
I turn the mower on its side, lay the 2x4 on the bottom of the blade housing, turn the blade so the tip is pushing into the 2x4, step on the 2x4 (wearing boots, of course), put the wrench on the nut, put the piece of pipe over the end of the wrench, and pull up (wrench is at about 3 o'clock position).
Never an issue yet.
I also make sure to remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug. Life is exciting enough without adding any risk.
It's a lot easier to put the wrench on the left and bear down with your weight - the reverse when tightening. You need either a torque wrench or an educated 'feel' for tightening so you stand a chance of loosening it next time.