Nut Sedge in lawn

RailunderJuly 19, 2014

I recently used a product called SedgeHammer with excellent results. The sedge stopped growing and turned yellow. I guess it is dead or dying. The results were evident in a week. My question is now I have these patches of yellow sedge. See picture. Is it safe to pull them up and re-seed the patches or is the sedge just playing with me and the roots are still viable?

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morpheuspa

It's possible it's still playing games with you. While unattractive, I'd leave it a bit longer to make sure it's really dead and not just playing possum...

Nutsedge also has nutlets on the roots, which can be dormant at the time of spraying. Keep a close eye out for a reappearance in those same areas and treat it immediately.

I use Tenacity rather than Sedgehammer (same idea, though), and sometimes have to re-treat sections I treated if it comes back. It's never as bad the second time.

    Bookmark   July 19, 2014 at 4:35PM
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danielj_2009

morph - not to steal the thread (hopefully to add to it): I believe I have nutsedge here and there as well. What are your experiences with Tenacity? Just use it as the label recommends? Fall or spring or both, etc.?? How long do you have to wait before seeding bare spots left behind?

    Bookmark   July 19, 2014 at 4:56PM
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morpheuspa

It's a nutsedge thread as far as I'm concerned, so this is not a steal. :-)

Tenacity is the only thing that gave me control over nutsedge n my gardens (Sedgehammer probably would have worked, but I found Tenacity first). It takes time, about a week, for the sedge to collapse and die, and sometimes two sprays are necessary, a week apart.

More frequently, new nutsedge has simply sprouted the next week in different areas and needs to die.

In lawns, you can seed at the same time you apply Tenacity. it functions as a weak pre-emergent on some weeds (including nutsedge) for about a month, but has no effect on grass seed.

One effective method of sedge control is to apply Tenacity at seeding time across the entire area. Sedges simply won't survive, and it gives the grass a solid month to grow before having to deal with sedges, thistle, P. annua, and P. trivialis.

    Bookmark   July 19, 2014 at 8:02PM
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Railunder

Thanks for all of the feedback. I assumed that it will take 2 to 3 growing seasons until I can proclaim victory. I spent years pulling it out only to learn I was probably spreading it. Thanks again!

    Bookmark   July 19, 2014 at 8:35PM
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dchall_san_antonio(8 San Antonio)

Nutsedge loves wet soil, so if you're watering frequently, you will see a lot more of it than if you are watering infrequently.

    Bookmark   July 20, 2014 at 12:48AM
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morpheuspa

>>Nutsedge loves wet soil, so if you're watering frequently

Pennsylvania for both myself and the OP (if the entry on the first message was correct as it changed, durn it). Damp soil is a way of life this year. :-) Our forecast today was for a ten percent chance of a very light shower. It just poured for two hours.

Unfortunately, the occasional sedge outbreak is unavoidable as the weather in May, June, and September is almost always conducive to it.

    Bookmark   July 20, 2014 at 1:34AM
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dchall_san_antonio(8 San Antonio)

I'm just saying not to add more water if you can help it. Mother Nature will help you or hurt you. We're seeing a huge benefit with this being an El Nino year down here. Although I have started seeing fungal disease in zoysia in San Antonio. That's a sign of too much water. I have a touch of it in my St Aug in SA, also. Brought home some corn meal for that.

    Bookmark   July 20, 2014 at 2:12AM
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danielj_2009

I was plucking what I think is nutsedge out of the edges of my lawn when I noticed that the weed was growing ON TOP of the soil, suspended by the sod! Each weed would have about an inch of pure white roots, followed by another 1/2 inch or so of dirty roots. I was reading that nutsedge primarily propagates through tubers, so maybe what i have isn't nutsedge at all?? Here's a typical one (that was growing out of the soil):

    Bookmark   July 20, 2014 at 10:16AM
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polyguy78(z8OR)

Definitely not nutsedge. Looks very much like annual ryegrass. Recently apply seed to the lawn?

    Bookmark   July 20, 2014 at 12:01PM
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danielj_2009

No, not since the lawn was put in last October. The back yard was seeded with a mix. The front sodded area has these same weeds floating in among the KBG blades, and rooting down to the ground! But with the sod these weeds are mostly at the edges near pavement.

    Bookmark   July 20, 2014 at 12:13PM
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danielj_2009

OK, I realize this may even be a different weed from my first one, but here is a photo of what I was thinking was nutsedge. I originally thought it was crab grass. Any idea (sorry to OP).

    Bookmark   July 20, 2014 at 12:31PM
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joneboy(7)

I believe the second is orchardgrass, just pull it or it should eventually mow out.

    Bookmark   July 20, 2014 at 1:04PM
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morpheuspa

I'm dreadful at weed ID, but that's not a sedge. Sedges have triangular stems (you can feel it if you roll it between your fingers) and three leaves from the base.

    Bookmark   July 21, 2014 at 1:51PM
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dchall_san_antonio(8 San Antonio)

Awww, jeeze. 15 yard penalty for withholding evidence.

This is nutsedge.

    Bookmark   July 21, 2014 at 2:03PM
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danielj_2009

Well if it makes you feel any better dchall, I probably have some of that, too.

joneboy, thanks for the ID!

    Bookmark   July 21, 2014 at 2:13PM
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polyguy78(z8OR)

Barnyardgrass. A summer annual that can be controlled next year with many pre-emergent. If you've just random plants, cut them off just below the surface and that should be that. To confirm let one of the plants off to the side mature and let it produce a seed head. Seed heads are often the best and easiest way to ID grasses. The Penn State links a good one: http://extension.psu.edu/pests/weeds/weed-id/barnyardgrass

    Bookmark   July 21, 2014 at 11:50PM
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danielj_2009

thanks polyguy

    Bookmark   July 21, 2014 at 11:57PM
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