John Deere 14SB Silver Deck Questions

dimwittedmoose51August 5, 2010

Tired of screwing with my LB DuraFarce, so it was time to go 4 cycle. Found it at a yard sale in non running condition. Figured it was worth the $15 for scrap weighing in at 100#. Researched the mower on line after buying it and founds the problems seem to be transmission and ignition ignitor, so I went to tthe local dealer and he had 5 or 6 of them in his bone yard. Got a bagger, used coil and ignitor, and a new air filter for $45. Motor had spark, but having a spare igition parts will come in handy someday. No Stabil in an empty gas tank over the winter was the likely of the starting issues, cuz when I cleaned the air correction jet and flushed the tank, it ran. I'm sure there are adjustments to make, but I downloaded the Kawasaki engine manual and that should take me through most of it.

INFO: Model/serial# GX14SBF417496 JD9503 2.6KW 3000MIN 45KG and the engine is a Kawasaki FC 150V


1. Are there symptoms or signs that the transmission is getting ready to crap out? Since I've never used one of these mowers, I don't have a feel for such things.

2. While trying to grease the rear drive areas with the grease gun, grease flowed nicely through the inside of the right side housing, but there was much resistance to getting grease in the left side. Is that normal and what can I do to make sure it's been greased right. The left side oozed out the external part of the housing and none came out of the inside part.

3. Grass seems to want to stick to the inside of the housing and I was wondering what kind of non ferrous metal the housing was made of and whether after properly preparing the surface, if that graphite based paint (like they use in grain storage bins) might keep the grass from sticking as much?

4. How much slack should be in the cable that actuates the drivetrain? There was a lot when I bought it and I've taken about half of it out just in case having no slack is a bad idea.

4. Any tips on getting some sort of lubrication down the cable sleeves?

5. Is the transmission really a 5 speed transmission, or are the numbers just speed guidelines?

6. There is a bit of play in the blade brake clutch unit between the tangs that stick out of the housing and the housing itself. It's maybe a 1/16". Is that acceptable? The blade is tight and doesn't vibrate.

7.Although the oil looks fairly clean, I'l change it after I use it the next time and I'll put one of those fuel filters in the line. Is there anything else I should do to make the thing last forever??

As you can tell from some of these questions, I don't have either the service manual or the owner's manual, so any help would be greatly appreciated.




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1 Don't sweat it 2 It is easy to pull the rear wheels and gears to clean and lube +plus you can hopefully free the fitting up to get lube in the pivot 3 See #1 The coating you put on , no matter how it was prepped- will be sand blasted off. been there, tried that exact same thing on a new aluminum housing. 4 Just so it firmly engages. Standard cable lube is fine. may have an owners manual to cover this more precisely. 5 5 gear sets inside selected w/ shift keys. 6 Yes 7 Standard care will allow the engine to last for longer than ever required. Transmissions on these can get water in them for those than blast them w/ a hose to get clean. If the input shaft bearing seems ok, no signs of having been owned by Mr clean and the cable seems to actuate smoothly, the trans should be fine. If you want a yucky job, pull the case sometime and clean it up and re lube. Unfortunately, this year seems to be the demise of these. In my world , I've condemned 3 to death from housings starting to pit through. One wasn't too bad, but needed a clutch- which is not worth it for a machine that is decaying. Enjoy, as they don't make them like they used to.

    Bookmark   August 6, 2010 at 12:43AM
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what's the best way to change the drive belt

    Bookmark   April 22, 2011 at 9:46PM
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