Moving a cecil brunner

sydneypie(z6tn)January 10, 2009

Well I am moving after 24 years and I really want to take my cecil brunner with me. I know I will have to cut it back to about 3 feet. The canes now are probably 8-20 feet. It normally blooms in May. Any advice on transplanting?

If I could possibly get by with cutting back to only eight feet, could I still get a bloom this year? Or would it be better to sacrifice all blooming and cut back to 3 feet?

Thanks for any advice.


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peachiekean(z10A CA)

One of the easiest to root! Why not start some cuttings as a back up and move the 8 ft. plant? That's what I would do.

    Bookmark   January 10, 2009 at 10:11AM
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I have tried to root cuttings once, but had absolutely no success. Can you direct me to some good instructions?

    Bookmark   January 10, 2009 at 10:16AM
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peachiekean(z10A CA)

There are simple and complicated methods to do cuttings. The secret IMO is to do a bunch of them so if you have a 10% success rate then you might have just what you need! Usually folks just put a cutting into a pot of peat and perlite with a clear liter bottle covering it up (bottle bottom sliced off and no cap on bottle). Plenty of ways including just pushing a few stems into the ground after pruning. That's how I believe I started a few many years ago. They are still growing in my old neighborhood. There is plenty of info here; good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: Rose Propogation and Exchange

    Bookmark   January 10, 2009 at 5:02PM
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rosesnpots(z8 Tidewater area VA)


Here is a link to articles written by the owner of Ashdown about moving roses. You may find it useful, especialy the 'Three men and a truck" article.


Here is a link that might be useful: Moving Roses Article from the Ashdown Roses E-Gazette

    Bookmark   January 10, 2009 at 5:52PM
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Thank you rosenpots,

I enjoyed Paul's sense of humor in the article. Now if only my husband would be so eager to attempt moving without me cutting back. Ha!

But from what I have learned, February is a good month to make this attempt. Plus I am going to take peachikean's advise and try some cuttings. Nothing like Plan B.


    Bookmark   January 11, 2009 at 8:18AM
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jbcarr(7 VA)

One of the good reasons to take along such a rose is the large root ball. You won't be waiting 3-5 years for the root ball to get big from a cutting. I like to use the bushel baskets you can get at a big box store. These have handles on them and are not expensive. Drill some holes in the bottom. I trim the canes back to about 3 feet for ease of handling. I use a shovel to carve out a root ball about the diameter of the basket, then lift that into the basket. I like to take as much undisturbed root ball as possible, but like the article says- don't sweat it if it winds up looking like a big bareroot. Add soil as needed to fill it in. A hand truck is indispensable for ease of moving. I have moved lots and lots of roses & shrubs this way, and never lost one, so they must be pretty hardy. If it needs to sit in the back of an open pickup for moving, dormant & leafless is a good time to do it. I once moved a bunch of leafed out plants in the back of a pickup, drove on the highway, and they looked like a hurricane had blown through (all recovered nicely though).

    Bookmark   January 11, 2009 at 9:16AM
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catsrose(VA 6)

Given how much you will have to cut her back to move her, plus the risk of her not surviving the transplant, plus how quickly she grows, I would just buy a new beginning. I planted a two-gallon from Sherando spring 07. The first year she just sat there, but last summer, she zoomed. I had her on a single arbor, but by the end of the summer it wasn't enough. I added two more singles, 24 inches apart, to make a covered walkway and she will cover it this year. Like you, I'm lousy at cuttings and she's easily available. To me it would be worth the $16 or even $25. There's no transplant shock and you can take your time about getting her in the ground.

    Bookmark   January 11, 2009 at 9:17AM
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I live in a 100 year old neigborhood in Nashville, TN that has been taken over by 2 really fast growing universities. It seems the norm now is to buy your kids a home to live in while they go to college, and then sell when they graduate.

These are not cheap homes. (Where's the recession??)

My neighbor sold her house 2 years ago, and the family sent over their grounds man and crew and they cut down everything in site so the girls would not have to maintain. It was so sad.

Therefore, I realize anything I leave will probably be destroyed (the next frat party), so I am their only hope of survival.


    Bookmark   January 11, 2009 at 9:39AM
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rosesnpots(z8 Tidewater area VA)


Glad I could help. And you are right about Feb, when I have to repot an established rose I try to wait until Feb and I do my pruning then as well. Good luck and I hope your Cecil Brunner stays happy during the move and transplant to your new home.


    Bookmark   January 11, 2009 at 10:04AM
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I've had good luck moving large plants and not losing a lot of bloom. First, the plant should be dormant when you move it. Next, forget about the root ball concept and just dig out the thickest, longest roots. The idea is to create your own bare root rose--with the longest roots you find practical.

    Bookmark   January 12, 2009 at 1:26PM
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Having had a couple moves experiences moving roses, this is what I think:

I suggest that, with a very large plant like CB, that you take out, to the bud union, the largest, oldest canes, saving a minimum of last year's canes. (Better to do it now, than after you dig it up and find your darling CB in shock and wilting.) ie, if you have 10 canes, cut out at least 5 of the largest, oldest canes, and anything that isn't perfectly healthy. Don't worry, you could cut off all the canes to the bud union, and assuming the plants needs are met, it would come back fine. So be brave - cut off lots. Don't fertilize. Seal the cuts and give it at least a few days to recover. Then dig it up, digging far from the plant, and wrapping burlap around the root ball as you dig down, securing it with twine so that dirt doesn't fall from the roots as you move it from ground to container. The burlap will make it easier to transfer to the new spot as well. Keep it watered, and protect from wind or too much sun in transport.

This way you will avoid much of the risk of severely weakening your mature plant, which opens the door to disease, and a downward spiral.

This way you will at least get some bloom, and maybe lots as roses often will bloom like crazy after being thinned out. CB is so vigorous, she'll probably come back guns-a-blazin' after a successful move.

Good luck! -Gala

    Bookmark   January 12, 2009 at 3:03PM
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You could try the method that the local Ag Extention people used. They had planted a row of Cl Cecile Brunners on a Chain link fence-a they grew it was apparently a pain keeping them prunned back so they would not snag people so they got their tractor out and a big chain which they wrapped around the base of each rose and pulled them out and threw the remains on a burn pile. Several days later I came along and said-heavens can I have some??? and took home several and passed them around to all my friends. So far as I know the only one not to survive was the one that didn't get watered during the first summer.


    Bookmark   January 13, 2009 at 12:49PM
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