Soil Bock Maker

I purchased soil block makers from Peaceful Valley Farm Supply (www.groworganic.com). I've been a bit irritated trying to use it, but I think I haven't gotten the growing mix right yet. It requires finely screened peat moss and compost, and I haven't perfected producing those yet. I might need to buy or construct a screen, or find a potting mix that's already pre-screened, which would be idea.

I haven't given up on it and think that it will work well once a person gets the knack of it. Just be prepared for a learning curve.

I've been using soil blockers for about 20 years. The most difficult part of using them is to get the moisture in your soil mix correct. I don't have a recipe for it but I must say that I don't use the mixture of screened peat moss and compost. I use a finely ground commercial seed starting mix but I have in years past used straight potting soil. I don't recommend the potting soil but I don't believe that you need an exact soil mix to use a soil blocker. I never use pots to start my seeds. I use trays lined with capillary matting with the soil blocks placed directly on the matting.
When you mix the seed starting mix and the water, let it sit for half a day. The peat moss and other ingredients in the starting mix need time to soak up the water. When you first mix the water into the mix you want it to be quite wet but not sloppy. After the starting mix has had time to soak, try making blocks. If they are holding together and seem moist but firm, you've got it. If it's still too dry, add water and let it sit again for a little while. If your mixture is too wet, you shouldn't see standing water, add some dry starting mix and let it sit for a while. I find it best to have your soil mix wetter rather than dryer. Dryness or extreme wetness are the main causes for the blocks not holding together. If you are still having problems, most likely you are not packing the soil blocker hard enough with soil mixture.
Hope this helps,
Carole

I'll look for a finer seed starting mix--the kind I normally use has hunks of perlite and even an occasional twig!

One last question--do you punch out the blocks directly onto the capillary mat where you intend to seed, or onto another surface and then try to move them?

Thank you for your advice.

I punch mine out onto a board and then move them into position onto the matting. You have to move them because they come out of the blocker too close together. You need 1/2 - 3/4 inch space between the blocks so that the roots of the seedlings don't grow into the next block. Just pick them up gently and have your tray right next to you. They are sturdier than you might think. If you break one, throw it back in the seed starting mixture. This system really is great. No pots to break, buy, store, wash, sterilize. A lot of plus's. Have fun with it. I grow my seedlings up to planting out size this way.
Best wishes,
Carole

Hi Guys,
I don't use those block makers They never appealed to me. I use those cellular inserts . They are cheap and sterile and you don't have to be a surgeon at making up atomic soil mixes. You can be even cheaper and use them again. I just throw them out. They come in many different sizes . They fit in a standard size tray for which you can purchase a low rise or high rise humidity dome. I have bought them by the case which holds a hundred sheets. I have had my case for quite awhile so I don't have a recent source but they are probably available in local nurseries.
CG

Where do you recommend to purchase a soil block maker? Is there a soilless soil block maker soil recipe?

Hello everyone,

Cambse, you've really sparked my interest in using the soil blocks. I usually use the plastic trays but am getting tired of washing and sterilizing them. I have a few questions:

Do you use different size blocks depending on the plant?

Do you know if most commercial seed starting mixes would work?

Do the blocks stay moist enough that misting the tops would be sufficient? Right now, I water from the bottom but have a hard time gaging how moist the cells are because it seems the water never gets to the top and I end up misting the tops after the cells soak.

Thanks!

Upforachallenge,

There is an entire line of soil block makers, ranging in size from miniblocks (11/16" x 11/16") that make 20 "blocks" at one time, a large block (1-3/4" x 1-3/4") that make 4 "blocks" at one time, and a extra-large block (4"x4") that makes one huge "block" at a time. There are also professional soil block makers that are used by standing up, it's supposed to be less time consuming. There is a 1-1/2" that makes 20 per time and a 2" blocks that makes 12 per time.

From my experience, the soilless mix needs to be somewhat moist, but I am also still looking for a recipe for the soil mix, so if anyone can, please advise.

Thanks.

Sorry I haven't been here for a couple of days. My ISP has been down.
I use a Ladbrooke soil blocker for the 2 inch blocks. My husband made me a 4 inch blocker. I just wasn't willing to pay the $109.00 that Ladbrooke gets for the four inch size. I'm putting in a link to the site that gives great directions for building them. Peaceful Valley sells the 2 inch blockers for about $30.00.
Mostly I use the 2 inch blocks, sometimes I use a 4 inch block for those plant 'em and step back varieties. For those of you that like to tray plant and prick out the seedlings, they have the mini-blocker that can give you the little tiny blocks that you can then put into the larger blocks or (possibly) plant straight into the garden.
I just plant one seed into the 2 inch blocks and let them grow into planting out size. Works for all but the most vigorous varieties.
You pretty much have to use capillary matting with soil blockers because if you top water they have a tendency to fall apart. Remember to put a "tail" or wick on the matting lining your trays. Pin or sew a strip of capillary matting about 1 1/2 inches wide (and however long it needs to be to reach your water container) to your tray matting and put the other end in a container of water. This will keep you evenly moist and you don't have to water three or four times a day. I've been using soil blockers for about 20 years. The most difficult part of using them is to get the moisture in your soil mix correct. I don't have a recipe for it but I must say that I don't use the mixture of screened peat moss and compost that I have seen in some directions. I use a finely ground commercial seed starting mix but I have in years past used straight potting soil. I don't recommend the potting mix but it did make perfectly good soil blocks. I don't believe that you need an exact soil mix to use a soil blocker. I never use pots to start my seeds. I use trays lined with capillary matting with the soil blocks placed directly on the matting.
When you mix the seed starting mix and the water, let it sit for half a day. The peat moss and other ingredients in the starting mix need time to soak up the water. When you first mix the water into the mix you want it to be quite wet but not sloppy. After the starting mix has had time to soak, try making blocks. If they are holding together and seem moist but firm, you've got it. If it's still too dry, add water and let it sit again for a little while. If your mixture is too wet (you shouldn't see standing water), add some dry starting mix and let it sit for a while. I find it best to have your soil mix wetter rather than dryer. Dryness or extreme wetness are the main causes for the blocks not holding together. If you are still having problems, most likely you are not packing the soil blocker hard enough with soil mixture. This is not a light and fluffy block. If it was it would fall apart. You need to pack the soil mix into the blocker until you can get no more in. Don't worry about the roots, they will have no problems.
I use soil blocks placed directly on the capillary matting. I seed directly into the soil blocks and the capillary matting will keep each soil block evenly watered. The reason I use soil blocks is that they are cheap. (no pots what so ever) If you leave a 1/2 inch space between each block, the root system will be naturally air pruned, resulting in a more dense root system. Better roots, better plants. I use a commercial soil block maker but you can do the same thing by jamming a pot of the proper size into moistened seed mixture. You'll get the hang of how much water you need to moisten the seed mixture and how much you need to pack it by just trying it. All blocks that don't turn out the way you want them to can be crumbled back into the soil mixture and you try again. It's really quite easy and you don't have to worry about pots at all. I really like this system because it is cheaper and easier than pots. With no pots I don't store, wash, sterilize, water three times a day, buy more because they are always breaking.......
I hope this has made the process clearer. If it hasn't, let me know. I'll try again. ;-)
Carole

Here is a link that might be useful: Making soil blockers.

Carol,

Thanks so much for adding your personal experience about the soil block maker. I am thinking about making my own, does your husband have any tips from when he made his? What item did he use for the shape?

Thanks.

There's a recipe in the Organic Growers Supply catalog. They also sell the Ladbrooke Blockers, though not 4" size.

I haven't tried the mix, so can't compare with Carole's experience.

Here is a link that might be useful: OGS recipe

Upforachallenge,
The fine commercial seed starting mixes are what I use. I buy mine at McConkles, a growers supply. I do not make my own mixes although you certainly could. The mix given by solana looks very good. I, however, just use the commercial seed starting mix.
Topnotchveggie,
My husband used a leftover piece of black sewer pipe to make my four inch blocker. It's very sturdy. It's round and I would rather have had square but sewer pipe is what we had so round it is. I use the 4 incher on melons, squashes and other fast growing plants. Making your own beats paying $109.00!
Carole

Carol, thats such a great idea, it's funny because I was in my local hardware store the other day walking down the PVC pipe aisle trying to put something together. What did he end up using to push or pull the soil block out of the "mold," if he does such a thing? Thanks.

I have had success placing my soil blocks on a flat patio block (concrete) set in a shallow pan of water. When it's time to plant outdoors, the blocks are easy to remove with a spatula. The blocks are never too wet and never too dry.

Also, I have tried a tip I read years ago to add a package of unflavored gelatin to a couple of cups of warm water to use as wetting agent for the planting mix. This seems to help hold the blocks together when forming them, and adds a little nitrogen in the process.

topnotchveggie,
He used a lid from a wide mouth canning jar (just the lid, not the ring) and attached a 1x1 board to the lid with a screw. The handle/lid goes into the sewer pipe (actually, I just found out it's a sewer pipe coupler) through the bottom and the lid stops at the top. The pipe piece (coupler) had some kind of a lip on the inside that makes the lid stop at the top. If your pipe didn't have a lip on it, you could run some screws in at the top of the pipe and the screw points would stop the lid also. It doesn't look finished as the commercial ones do but it's a lot less expensive and it only took about 15 minutes to make. Works just fine.
Carole

Carol,

Thanks for the tip, I was at the hardware store the other day and I found a conduit end or a clean out adaptor that looks pretty good to use. I am going to make one this week and see how it all works out. Is there any magic to how much mix you use per block? Any additional advice?

Thanks.

Just saw this message today after potting up about 100 seedlings from 1/2 inch soil blocks to 2 inch blocks.

I just started using soil blocks this year after trying peat pots and peat pellets in previous years. After this exercise I will never go back to anything else! Soil blocks are fun, easy to make and germination happens really fast. My basil germinated in around 24 hours and tomatoes in 48 hours. Hot peppers that are supposed to be hard to germinate have near perfect germination in less than a week.
I use a very simple recipe for my blocks: lots of sphagnum peat moss, a handful of perlite, some bone meal, some greensand and some wood ash( to reduce the peat moss acidity). Nothing is precise and everything is just thrown in. I mix this up well and add plenty of water and let it soak for several hours. The consistency should be that of slurry or thick oatmeal. This is a LOT more water than if you watered your plants directly but this is what gives the blocks consistency.
Always water the blocks from below or use capillary mats. After a while the blocks harden with the fibrous roots in them and become nearly indestructible. You can actually drop them on the floor and they dont even break!

Check out the attached links for pictures of coleus, peppers, basil, different varieties of tomatoes and asian eggplants growing in soil blocks.

Here is a link that might be useful: Soil Blocks

Rambot,

Well, it certainly seems as if you are truly enjoying the new addition to your collection. Congrat's! I would enjoy seeing your pictures from the gallery, but the link just brings me to the sign-in page for kodak, maybe you can correct that so we can all take a look at your collection.

Thanks.

Sorry about the bad url. Please try this new link. Hope this works...

Here is a link that might be useful: Soil Blocks

Rambot, Bravo for great photos and terrific blocks. Just a couple questions. I saw you have two blockers, which is which? What type of recipe or mix do you use for your blocks. Again, congrat's on your success! Let me know how it all turns out!

Thanks for the good wishes.
The smaller one is the 1/2 inch blocker. It makes 20 1/2" blocks. I germinate nearly all in my seeds in these blocks other than the large ones (okra, dahlias, peas) These blocks are small enough that I can fit several hundred on a single heating mat.

The larger one is the 2 inch block with a 1/2 inch block indentation. I can simply take the germinated 1/2" block and simply place in the 2 inch and it continues growing with no shock.

A great description of soil blocks and blocking recipes can be found in "The New organic grower" by Eliot Coleman.
Unfortunately the recipe that he suggested didnt work too well for me. (he suggests using regular compost in the mix) This killed off over half my seedlings of a previous batch through damping off)

I am now using clean sphagnum peat moss with some perlite+ wood ash/lime+ green sand + bone meal for making both the 1/2" and 2" blocks. I dont use blood meal or any nitrogen source because they are known to hinder germination. Use lots of water (the mix should be almost soggy)and let it soak for a couple of hours.

Wish you healthy plants and great growing!

Hi there --

I have to post an alternate opinion on the soil blockers. I just got the mini blocker and the 2 inch blocker this year. Maybe it is just my technique, but I have not been able to just push them into the soil mix, twist, and come up with dirt that is packed nearly enough to hold together. So that has meant individually packing the blockers before extruding the blocks, a very time consuming process. I also used Eliot Coleman's mix and haven't been real impressed by the growth of my seedlings in it... Enough so that I am considering re-seeding in another medium. Anyway, just my 2 cents, from someone who was counting on soil blocks to be the be-all end-all...

Emily

I made my first soil blocker from a tomato paste can. I left one end in the can but punched a hole in that end to accommodate a 1/4" length of dowel. I cut/whittled/sanded a disc from a scrap of 1/2" plywood and drilled a blind hole to accept the dowel for the plunger that removed the block from the can. I had a small corner left from cutting the disc and since it was more or less triangular in profile, I glued it to the bottom of the disc to make a divot (sp?) to accept the seed. Since cans come in a variety of sizes it would be a snap to make big ones and fit the disc with a piece of wood to make the potting on holes although I've never gotten around to it. I also like the fact that the can wall is thin enough to easily cut through the soil mix. Cost of my blocker was zero since everything was scrap from other projects (if you can consider dinner a project).

I'm curious to try these, especially to produce transplants of plants with sensitive roots such as melons, cukes, and squash (and even peas and beans). Are there any problems caused by the soil being wetter than with the usual seed-starting method? With capillary matting, do roots grow out the bottom? Is a moist capillary mat enough to keep the top of the block (where the seed is) moist during germination? Would you still use a humidity dome? Do blocks require any special attention?

Emily,
You have to "charge the blocker" a few times to get the blocks to compress together. By that time the blocker will feel very heavy and will want to stick to the bottom of your tub. This is when you have to tilt slightly while turning at the same time to release the suction off the bottom. And, Elliot Coleman's recipe is all about using good rich garden soil and well aged vegetable compost. Did you try those two ingredients?

Here is a link that might be useful: The world's resource for soil block gardening.