need help...husqvarna 350 won't start

peterbaxterMarch 4, 2008

i just purchased a new huskie 350 and it wont start for at least 100 pulls. after start up it runs and cuts just fine. the fuel is fresh and mixed properly. the plug has good spark but is wet. the saw was purchased in longmont co and is used in canada so the warranty is void, (thanks husqvarna for the great after sale support!) could it be a sea elevation difference or do i just have a dud. thanks for any help.

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Check the spark plug gap. That might not be set correctly!
Check the muffler for a mouse nest! Check the air filter, might be partially clogged.
Do you have to use the new fuel that is being produced? It may not run on the crap being sold now!

    Bookmark   March 4, 2008 at 10:20AM
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After the saw sets overnight, set the switch in the run position (no choke)and hold the throttle wide open. Attempt to crank it a couple of times and then examine the plug.
If the plug is wet, the needle valve probably needs to be replaced in the carb. If the plug is dry, replace the plug.
A spark plug can look perfectly good and fire normally when not under compression and not fire when cold and under compression. The fuel patch is from the carb to the crank case sump and then to the cylinder. If the needle valve is defective the crank case can load with fuel after the saw sets for a period of time without being started.

    Bookmark   March 4, 2008 at 11:06AM
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thanks guys, the husqvarna dealer told me the same thing, needle valve. the saw is at the farm at the moment so i can't play with it but i think i will just take her in and let them fix it. it's to new for me to #%$& it up.

    Bookmark   March 6, 2008 at 12:25AM
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Saws can be flooded real easy especially with the primer bulbs and choked for a few pulls. Once it flooded the oil in the gas coats everything in the comb chamber and crankcase and does run out the muffler sometimes. When it runs out the muffler you can bet the crankcase sump also has raw fuel in it.

Now, to get it unflooded let it set for quite awhile, but the mix may still in the crankcase or remove the plug spary some carb. cleaner down the spark plug hole and pull the rope a couple of times, pulling the rope spits all the mix out and cleans the comb chamber and sump.

Repeat spraying and pulling till you think all the mix is washed out. Now with the comb chamber cleaned out of mix and primed with carb. cleaner clean the plug off and install it and start it up.

once you learn how many time to push the primer button with the choke on you will know about when it should fire. Some saws are touchy and some require alot of primer button pushing.

Easiest way when a saw has been setting for a long time is just remove the plug and prime the comb chamber with one or two second blast of carb. cleaner. they usually fire right up, but may die till gas gets pulled up through the carb.

    Bookmark   March 9, 2008 at 6:08PM
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masiman(z7 VA)

I am not a small engine expert but it was my understanding that the bulb only helped circulate fuel into the system but does not put fuel into the chamber. Meaning you can't flood your engine by priming. Someone correct me if I am wrong on that.

Second, I think you need to be careful with the carb cleaner as it will break down the oil that lubricates the cylinder, piston and rings. Each time you crank without that lubrication will damage the cylinder. A little damage each time will add up eventually.

    Bookmark   March 9, 2008 at 7:04PM
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i thought it was the primer bulb but i tried starting it without touching it with the same results, and the husky mechanic told me what masimanjust posted that you cant flood it via the primer bulb. my dad worked in bush camps and knows chainsaws and he cant figure it out either. this saw was just purchased and flooded on the first start and like i said she runs sweet when it starts. are the chokes that touchy.

    Bookmark   March 10, 2008 at 11:00AM
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masiman(z7 VA)

I would guess that you are getting fuel since your plug is wet. I am not sure from what you were saying if you are at sea level or far above. It could be that you are above sea level and with the less oxygen, your carb is set too rich (too much fuel for how much oxygen). I am too inexperienced to make recommendations though. I'd suggest taking it to a different dealer. Maybe even writing to Husky corporate to complain about the service you have received. I have a chainsaw that folks on here provided some trouble shooting tips for me awhile back Best Chainsaw. Check towards the end of that thread for some info that might help you figure out what might be wrong with your saw. Your condition sounds opposite of mine, in that I don't think I am getting enough fuel or I may have an air leak.

    Bookmark   March 10, 2008 at 1:46PM
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one guy told me that because i bought it in longmont co. it was set up for there area, 5280 ft above sea level. i live in manitoba and we are about 2600 ft above sea level but after reading the manual it states that the saws are tuned at sea level so it shoud'nt matter. i emailed husqvarna and they told me nicely no warranty, which i can't really blame them. i took a chance by purchasing it in the us. the 350's in canada are priced on average 550.00 compared to 320.00 in the states. so i'm still ahead even if i have to shell out a few bucks. i'm taking the saw to a dealer out here next week and i'll post the results on this forum. thanks for the help ppl.

    Bookmark   March 10, 2008 at 5:13PM
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How many pulls are you leaving the choke on? The plug can appear wet and not be flooded. Normally you would leave the choke on untill you hear it fire which can take up to 10 pulls if it's been sitting for a while, usually 2 to 4 if used the day before. Steve

    Bookmark   March 10, 2008 at 8:26PM
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Obviously it's flooded or the spark plug won't be wet! Why did they put primer bulb on them. Would that be to pull the fuel up to the carb.? Fuel is pulled into the comb chamber in a fine mist, once it reaches wettness FLOODED.

I still say remove the plug, spray the carb cleaner in the spark plug hole, pull the rope to blow and wash out the comb chamber. Spray the spark plug to wash all the oil/mix off and install it, leave the choke off, and pull the rope. I bet it will fire within two pulls. If it still floods then I would get help.

I think some are confussing carb. cleaner with ether. Ether may or will do damage if you spray enough of it, but I have never had any damage using carb. cleaner or herd of it damaging other than the from ones that don't fix them or work on them.

    Bookmark   March 10, 2008 at 9:51PM
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i'll give thatcarb cleaner a try when i head out to the farm. on the first start up i primed it about three or four times set the choke at full and pulled about twenty times before checking for spark. when i pulled the plug i noticed it was wet. we dried up the plug and pulled it over about fifteen times and put the plug back in. we then tried again with the choke off and same results. after pulling the plug and drying the third time it went after about fifteen pulls, very touchy at first and then ran nice. thought it was a break in thing but after it cooled off the cycle repeated itself and this time we tried without priming and after that no prime no choke same results

    Bookmark   March 10, 2008 at 11:38PM
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You should never pull more than 2 to 3 times with the choke on. That will flood it every time. Even if it hasn't started or popped, push the choke in after 3 pulls. Don't hit the throttle--most of them have a half open throttle position for starting.

If the saw is running fine after starting, your starting procedure is incorrect.

    Bookmark   March 11, 2008 at 1:16AM
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I just had the plug out of my snowmobile, it was wet but not flooded as I dumped a little mix right in the plug hole and it fired right up, seen that many times on chainsaws also. After a saws been sitting a while all of mine( 14 every brand) take more than 3 pulls with the choke on to get them to pop. If just sitting overnight 2 or 3 pulls and they always pop when they have had enough choke. Sound to me like the low speed circut is adjusted to lean or clogged on this saw (having to baby it untill it get warmer). either way it makes the choke not suck gas as it should. Try a new plug also, they can cause starting problems also. This saw is not acting like it's flooded, if it was he'd have to be holding the throttle open after it started to clear it out not just leaving it idle untill it warmed up. Steve

    Bookmark   March 11, 2008 at 8:21AM
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vangellis(NE PA)

I bought a 350 last spring. Over the summer I cut up 4 cords of wood and it sat in my shed with gas in it since september. I just got it out Sunday, primed, pulled the rope 3 times and Bam! Fired right up. Guess I got lucky.


    Bookmark   March 12, 2008 at 10:01PM
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"This saw is not acting like it's flooded"

What would you say having to pull a wet plug off and dry it three times is acting like?

    Bookmark   March 12, 2008 at 11:39PM
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And what would you say after it starts(very touchy) means he can't pull the trigger without it dying = lean, not enough gas. There's a difference between plugs that are damp and soaked. You can dump gas down the plug hole. leave the choke off and pull it over with the throttle wide open and it will be running if a few pulls. It doesn't take long to get a saw unflooded holding the throttle wide open, takes forever to start with not enough or a poorly operating choke. Vangellis, with a primer it doesn't take near as many pulls after sitting, the primer fills the carb with gas before pulling(it doesn't pump gas into the crankcase like a Sko Doo snowmobile, those I get running on the 1st pull most times) none of my saws have primers so I have to pull quite a few times afer they sit for a time. Peter Try a new plug, check out the choke and linkage to make sure it's closing all the way, does the fast idle work, if not that would cause hard starting. Try opening the low adjuster 1/2 turn and see if that helps, you can always put it back. If you think it's flooded leave the choke off and hold the throttle wide open, it should start within 10 pulls if it was flooded. Steve

    Bookmark   March 13, 2008 at 5:13AM
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hey guys, i'm taking notes and heading to the farm this weekend to try everything suggested. i just want to clarify in detail what i meant by touchy. when it did start and i gave it throttle it died right away and took two attempts of running and dying before it ran smooth with throttle applied, each time running a little longer. also when trying to start i did hold the throttle wide open and choke off with no results and the plug was wet but not soaked. anyone know the plug number off hand.

    Bookmark   March 13, 2008 at 11:59PM
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turnage(z7a TX)

Champion plug is RCJ 7Y, NGK is BPMR 7A. Gap is .020.

    Bookmark   March 14, 2008 at 6:49AM
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Beings we are cyber troubleshooting IMO again oil don't evaporate. even if the gas evaporates you still have all the oil saturating the comb chamber, spark plug, exhaust ports and crank case. It will still be hard starting and smoke more than normal. I also believe as the temp gets colder the mix becomes harder to light (this IMO would be another reason to use carb. cleaner to prime with). So in far north where it is cold I would imagine the plug or plugs would be damp. But not wet if they are this means the combustion chamber. cramk case sump, and exhaust port is wet also IMO.

How do I know this when the so called primer buttoms flooded a weedeater and I took it apart seen raw fuel run out the crank case cover on a homelite brand weadeater (maybe that's why they only tell you to push X number of times???).

I Washed the crank case sump, combustion chamber, and spark plug out with carb cleaner. It fired on first crank and due to gas/oil mix was not saturating everything and being pulled up into the comb chamber from the sump.

Beings there was no heat or load on the engine it did NOT hurt the piston, crank/connecting rod bearings, or the piston bore, if anything it cleaned it up. Go ahead crank, crank, and crank when it won't start. I always prime any piece of equipment when it's been setting for a spell. Why cause I don't like pulling a rope or motoring the engine over for long periods of time. But, that's me.

    Bookmark   March 14, 2008 at 8:13PM
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Peter Any luck getting that saw too start better? Steve

    Bookmark   March 22, 2008 at 5:42AM
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hey steve, tried some carb cleaner and a new plug and it did start better but still took about twentyfive pulls to get her going. after running she felled and bucked just under four cords and ran great. i took her to a dealer and when i pick it up i will advise you guys on the verdict. should find out by next week so pls check back. thanks again for all the help. pete

    Bookmark   March 23, 2008 at 12:49AM
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I really like the 350, I have two of them. Versatile little saws.

What you describe is what people tell me happens to them when I let them borrow the saws without supervision. They are VERY touchy saws and easy to flood. But it sounds like a perfectly working saw since it's cutting well after starting. It could just be a starting procedure problem. Try this;

1. If the saw is warm (you shut it off less than 10 minutes ago) then just press up on the red kill switch and start it.

2. If it's been off for only 20 minutes or so, pull out the blue choke lever and push it back in. Don't touch the trigger. This will leave it in fast idle; start it and let it run on fast idle for 5-10 seconds.

3. On a COLD SAW (this sounds like your problem):

a) pull out blue choke
b) unlock the chain brake (saw on ground, hold it with your foot on the handgrip)
c) press the fuel bulb about 5 times (more doesn't hurt, it just circulates)
d) pull the recoil till it "stumbles": IT WILL NOT START and DO NOT PULL AGAIN after this. It will only do this stumble one time. If it's winter (32F) it may run 1-2 seconds and die. DON'T PULL THE RECOIL AGAIN. This is very important. Even one pull extra will flood it as you describe.
e) Push in the blue choke and do not touch the trigger. If you touch the trigger it turns off the 'high idle'.
f) Pull the recoil and start it. It should not take more than 5 pulls. DON'T touch the trigger even after it starts.
g) Let it run on high idle with the chain spinning for 5-10 seconds.
h) Now you can pull the trigger and use it normally.

Steps (d) and (g) sound like the missing steps in your starting sequence. You shouldn't need to monkey around with the sparkplug to start it. It's touchy I know, but if you get used to it you will probably like the 350, it's a great saw.

    Bookmark   April 21, 2008 at 12:01AM
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i just got the saw back from a husky dealer. he started it and it ran perfect so he didnt open it up. i get it home and it started and ran no problem. i tried to get it going last night and its flooding big time. i have gas running out of the muffler on the third pull. i removed the plug and air cleaner and turned the saw upside down and about a half an oz. of fuel spilled out. i let it sit overnight and tried plunders start up procedure and it did fire but flooded again. i can understand flooding the saw if your not familar with it but this is going to drive me to drink... (more)

    Bookmark   June 23, 2008 at 8:53PM
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found the problem. i took the top cover off the carb and the needle was stuck in the open position. started and ran perfect. thanks guys

    Bookmark   June 23, 2008 at 9:48PM
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