My snowblower is in need of a new bushing. The manual says that I will need a "special tool" to make this kind of repair. What tool are they refering to?
What bushing needs replacing?
The Cylinder Bushing (part# 297565) for model 130232 type 0558-01. It's a Baycrest snowblower B&S engine, circa the late 70's.
After looking at the parts diagrams again, I see that it says "requires special tools for installation" - so not just one tool.
Please tell us where this bushing goes! Most of us here have ways to do things without special tools. Of course, the factory boys will say that, to impress upon your mind that you will have to go to the place where they sell those things, and then pay big bucks "thru yer nose" to have it fixed!
Tell us what you have! We'll try to help!
The bushing "babbit" he is talking about is made of steel, goes on the output side of the crank shaft and is used to reduce wear from the steel crank and aluminum block.
The bushings at times were used instead of oil oils. Other times B&S used both the bushing and an oil seal. Then they went to just an oil seal.
The bushings are pressed in and can be knocked or pressed out and installed by using a simple tool called a bushing driver.
Nobody goes to those lengths anymore, the bushing (and the tool) are likely nla. A replacement engine or a new snow blower is in order, most of the l-head short blocks have been discontinued and after thirty years the snow blower has earned retirement.
It just so happens that I have located an identical model# Baycrest snowblower from a local source. I haven't seen it yet, but my friend claims that the engine even still runs with a little help. He also says much of the auger assembly is gone.
If the cylinder bushing is still good on this other engine, should I even attempt to switch it out? Or am I setting myself up for a very big headache?
Additionally, if the model numbers are identical, but the type number is different, will this be a different bushing?
Why would you not use the other engine as is? The bushing cannot be salvaged from another cylinder.
I did not take the time to proof read for this site is so slow to load and I very rarely even come here any longer. But thought that I would correct my reply. The bushing is located in the boss that sticks out from the flywheel side of the engine block. It is just a small thin bushing that protects the soft engine block from the steel crank. Some were used on engines with AUX PTO shafts. They are not hard at all to replace using a bushing driver. Bushing drives can be bought for as little as $20 US for a complete set. Same as all tools. You can also get them priced for hundreds of dollars. Whatever you wish to pay for a set.
*2 = Oil Seal.
3 = Bushing.
Example of a Bushing/bearing driver set.
Congrats on the donor. So are you replacing the bushing due to erratic point operation or a leak? It is a magneto side bushing- correct? I ask because an electronic ignition coil seems to still work well on the worn bushing.If the old engine had a bushing from new, you can knock it out and knock the new one it if you are resourceful and patient.
Due to a leak.
I'm going in a few days to check out this scrapyard replacement engine. The guy will want more if I take the whole engine - runs, but is apparently very dirty and rough and probably needs some work anyway. He will want much less if I take only a part - a little bushing would be cheap.
Thats a lot of trouble to get a bushing out. You might goof it up, and then have 2 engines with bad bushings. Why not try to make the other engine run, without taking it apart. Try Harbor Freight, or the other cheap place-can't think of it right now. They have cheap Chinese engines that folks either swear by, or at.
Also, check on one of the after-market solid state ignition kits. Cheap and easy to install and saves all of that bushing/points/condenser problems!