Dayton tiller belts

thepodpiperMarch 28, 2013

I have a old Dayton tiller with a 8 HP Briggs and Stratton engine. It has a reverse but never had a belt on it. Does anyone know where I can find a schematic or pic so I can figure out how to install the belt? It looks as if I may have to remove a pulley but would like to be sure. Thanks in advance.


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1. Please post a full Pic of the tiller to help ID âÂÂWhoâÂÂs Model it could also be sold asâÂÂ.

2. Post a close Pic showing all pulleys, Etc related to the belts. IMO, This Will Help!

    Bookmark   March 29, 2013 at 12:45PM
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Along with the pics I have another problem. The tiller ran beautifully for the three years I owned it until last fall when it suddenly froze up. I completely disassembled and put back together. Now I have no spark at all, so I removed the flywheel and the cover for the points and there was water inside the cover. I dried everything off with blow drier and thought that that was surely the problem. It was not, still no spark. Is it possible that the points are bad if so how do I check them.

Here are a couple of pics for the pulleys. Like I said I think i have to remove the middle pulley assembly.



    Bookmark   March 30, 2013 at 12:39PM
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Here is a link to pics. It has been awhile since I have posted pics sorry for inconvenience

Here is a link that might be useful: rototiller pics

    Bookmark   March 30, 2013 at 12:42PM
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Good Pics! Please give a close shot of the points âÂÂOpenedâÂÂ. IâÂÂm hoping to see the condition of the pointâÂÂs contacts condition.

IâÂÂll be late getting back to you. Hopefully someone will get back with some personal help on that model tiller. IâÂÂll hope to help with the no fire matter, if needed by then.

You might try sending the pics open (present 2 and 3rd of points) even if it takes 3 postings using the easy browse method. IMO, some individuals hate to open some personal links and I know the feeling. Please correct me if this is not true..

    Bookmark   March 30, 2013 at 1:33PM
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The contacts are in very good condition actually, no rust or pitting. They look as if they were just installed. Should I use some 600 paper on them just for the heck of it. I will get a pic in the morning.

    Bookmark   March 30, 2013 at 5:03PM
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Check your contact points with them closed using an ohmmeters or test light (âÂÂeven if they look goodâÂÂ). They will let you know the contacts are making contact closed. If they are not showing to be making contact âÂÂwith the test instrumentâ (with the cam rotated so that they are closed visually) they probably need cleaning. Fine Emery cloth etc. (as you mentioned) moved back and forth in the closed points (and lent free etc, clean all grit away) should clean and dress them enough to allow fire.

You mentioned water, check for rust on the flywheel magnets and coil to flywheel surfaces. If it ran before storing, I doubt the condenser is bad but look for cracks or swelling (if you do not have a replacement to test with. IMO, if this occurred from storage or water, I feel itâÂÂs an electrical contact issue. Use your ohmmeter to know all electrical connections are good. Last, know your pointâÂÂs gap is set correct (usually stamped .020 on the points dust cover). The Technology is getting old but simple.

The New Link to pics is good and I think others feel safer using them. Technology is A Monster! LOL.

    Bookmark   March 30, 2013 at 7:49PM
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