lopping shears don't cut it

hickory(z7 MD)March 21, 2011

We have two pairs of lopping shears, both of which have the same problem. (brands: Corona and Fiskars) They seem sharp, but they are not cutting the last remnant of the branch, resulting in a very ragged cut of the last bit of wood.

I think the blade is not making intimate contact with the blunt "base." This is probably due to the fact that we abuse the shears, trying to cut branches that are too big, and then twisting around to make the cut.

What can we do with the shears to fix them, and/or to prevent this from happening again? Is this characteristic of less-expensive brands, or is it our poor technique? OR, is my analysis (they seem sharp) probably inaccurate?



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dmullen(Southern CA)

I also have Corona and Fiskars loppers and have the same problem. Finally, I gave up and bought some Felcos. They seem to be better but I haven't used them long enough to tell if they will hold up. They do seem to be really well built and the replaceable blades should be a plus.

    Bookmark   March 21, 2011 at 9:03PM
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You probably cutting too big limbs especially if they are not double hinging type. Only thought would be check the bolt and nut holding them togather maybe it has worked loose? Seem sharp? I would also sharpen and watch closely when the close looking for gaps from your poor work habits.

    Bookmark   March 22, 2011 at 9:27PM
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Twisting in the cut is a bad thing. There are times I'll take a cut at an angle then remove the tool and bite from another angle to remove a chunk out as if using an axe. This doesn't put side stress on the blade. Other than checking for the loose bolt the tool may be scrap. Mine are the bypass type where the blade does not go against an anvil. Most anvils can be adjusted so the blade and anvil are in contact all along the cutting length when closed.

    Bookmark   March 22, 2011 at 10:09PM
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Are you talking about actual 'Loppers', with the long handles, or are you talking about trimming shears,which
are held by one hand? There are two types of each,
the anvil type, (which it sounds as if you have), and
the 'bypass' type, which is better for green wood.
Google them both and you'll see what I mean.

    Bookmark   March 23, 2011 at 8:50AM
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