Edger blade replacement

hbobApril 18, 2010

I just bought a used Kee walk behind edger and it needs the blade replaced. I had to guess at how this was done as I didn't get the instructions with it. By holding the old blade still and cranking the nut with a socket I removed the old blade. I then put on the new blade, the washer, the nut, and then reversed the process to install the new blade. Problem is, once you get the nut somewhat tight the blade, pulleys, and belt all start to turn and you can't tighten up the nut anymore. The nut does appear to be as tight as it was before, but I'm not certain. I couldn't find any place to put another wrench to hold the pulley still while tightening up the nut holding on the blade. I did start the edger and the nut didn't seem to come loose, but I just want to be sure I did this right before I use it. So does anyone have any experience putting on a replacement blade on this edger?

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Oh if it matters, its a Kee Trailmate edger model ET101.

    Bookmark   April 18, 2010 at 12:18AM
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According to user manual in my collection, for the SE101 and ET101 you simply loosen nut and remove washer to replace blade. It then says to reinstall washer and tighten nut.

I'm sure you figured that much out yourself.

If you remove the front belt guard and the belt itself, you may be able to grab the pulley on the hub with a pair of channellocks or vise grips. Do not grab the sheaves themselves or the teethmarks you leave will chew up belts.

Another trick is to get an old belt and a piece of pipe about 6" shorter. Thread the belt thru the pipe, one around around the pulley and put a bar thru the other end. When you twist up on the pipe, it will grab the pulley, allowing you to tighten the nut. Basically the belt and pulley are functioning like a home-made strap wrench.

    Bookmark   April 18, 2010 at 5:08PM
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I have a Kee Trailmate ET 101 edger that the torsion spring on the tilt trigger handle came off and I don't know how to re-install it. Any help will be appreciated.

    Bookmark   June 8, 2011 at 10:21PM
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earthworm(6 Pennsylvania)

Jwpl, I cannot help, as to the OP, help is easy..
Use an impact tool, or
Is the nut a "nylock" (plastic as a anti turn, better than lock washers) ??
It has to be tight, but NOT that tight, check the torque specs.
Another idea is the use of a "lock-tite" on the threads, but be careful here, be very careful. Some lock-tite is a forever thing.
Out in the field, the primary problem is overtightening, not under.

    Bookmark   June 13, 2011 at 10:36AM
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