Sears air compressor engine won't run when plugged in

Cletus77April 23, 2013

Sears Paint Sprayer/Air Compressor Model No. 106.153542 100 psi. Twin Cylinder
I got it out this spring to pump up my lawnmower tires and plugged it in and it started just fine--but when it got to 90 psi, the compressor stopped pumping up and made a low buzz sound. This buzz sound lasted about the amount of time it would have taken to charge up to 100 psi (which would have been normal) then it went silent. After pumping up my tires, I plugged it in again to see what it would do. Silence. No buzz, nothing. First time in over 40 years I've ever had a problem with it.
I can't find the manual for it and can't find a copy online. So I'm wondering if there's a part to be replaced or if it's just dead and I need another compressor. If the stopping in mid-charge and buzz symptom sounds familiar, please let me know if this is fixable or not.

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loger_gw

Sounds like my Sears! I have a 1972 SearâÂÂs model attached that has been fairly easy to maintain and diagnose problems. My cause of no power has occurred twice:

1. Bad contacts in the motor (from years of dust and paint) that was easily cleaned with the motor disassembled.

2. Bad auto pressure switch that you should be able to switch on manually or bypass. If it is determined to be bad, you can find a generic at a reasonable cost.

I get back and share manual info if needed.

    Bookmark   April 23, 2013 at 12:08PM
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loger_gw

âÂÂIâÂÂllâ get ahead on a possibility as the starter capacitorâÂÂs dirty contacts. ItâÂÂs always after I see the dirty contacts that I remember I d/n hear the distinct âÂÂClickâ (at the start when they kick in to boost the start). Attached is not a good pic but you can see itâÂÂs easy to pull the end to clean the contact points. You might be able to see them w/o pulling the end. I have blown some clean knowing my disc sander will collect dust on the contacts and cause it not to start.

IâÂÂll get back again!

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 9:46AM
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Cletus77

Although I have used this compressor for decades, my dad was the original owner and did the maintenance until the last decade after he was gone. I haven't done any maintenance since then, so cleaning the contacts will be my first job. It hasn't been used as a paint sprayer in decades. Normally, I use it to pump up car tires and so it doesn't stay plugged in. I had noticed last autumn that if I didn't use it for more than a month the air would slowly leak out somehow and I'd have to plug it in to get the pressure back up to 100psi.
Having other problems with my car and since I have to drive to town to use the internet at the library, prompt responses are difficult.
I appreciate your help and I'll clean the contacts and see if that does the trick. Thank you.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 11:02AM
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loger_gw

Since the compressor has not been maintained lately, IâÂÂll suggest you check or change the following.

1. Change the compressor crankcase oil with 30wt HD oil (âÂÂunless I find my manual and it requires different oilâÂÂ).

2. Check and replace the compressorâÂÂs air filter if itâÂÂs too bad to blow clean. I have extras that I feel I purchased from Sears in the 70s. They w/n easy to clean when we painted cars (üâ thick felt).

3. Open the tankâÂÂs bottom drain port with low pressure in the tank to help blow out any oil and water. I would suggest check the tank after any extended use (airing a tire s/n cause moisture IMO). ItâÂÂs common for a bad tankâÂÂs bottom if the draining is not maintained.

I hope the compressor powered up after you found the need. Otherwise let me know where you are on the need.

    Bookmark   April 25, 2013 at 1:15PM
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cal613

loger_gw... I have a sears paint sprayer similar to the one listed above.. model 106.153540. My question is would you have the original manual or know where I would be able to obtain a copy of such a thing. I am wanting to restore the one I have and need something that goes over the maintenance and assembly. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    Bookmark   February 28, 2015 at 11:28AM
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loger_gw

1. I would suggest isolating the compressor from the pressure switch which might allow you to use the compressor if the contacts to the starting capacitor and starting capacitor are working. If you add a male plug to the end going to the pressure switch you will be able to use a short extension to power the motor. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

A. You should hear the contacts click to verify their contact and the compressor should power up.

B.If no click and good power, ck the contacts in the end you see off to see they are clean to make good contact. If they appear clean, rem the starter capacitor on top of the motor and get an electric motor repair shop or electrician to test it.

2. If the motor and compressor works well w/o the pressure cut/off switch it can be replaced. Before spending too much time, ck the bottom of the tank to know that it has not rotted to bad to repair, “since you mentioned leaking”. My initial leak after a yr in 1973 was just a pin hole. That a sheet metal screw and rubber O-Ring has worked on since then. Bang on the bottom good testing because if it has not been drained it could be bad.

3. Attached is a motor that pulled in too much dust vs paint and stopped until I cleaned it.

1 Like    Bookmark   February 28, 2015 at 2:14PM
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loger_gw

There might be a limit per Etc on attachments since my attachments d/n post and the options were different. I’ll try 1 of 4 as a test and insert is not active vs cancel. I'll search the attachment limits. I hope my info will help w/o the attachments. Do you have a neighbor that has electrical skills? I feel your problem is small if the tank is good. 40 yrs has been a Blink!!!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

    Bookmark   February 28, 2015 at 4:38PM
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