Will the thermo protection on farm rater motors protect overheati

loger_gwApril 23, 2014

Will the thermo protection on farm rated motors protect overheating 75-100% of the time?

1. Will the thermo protection on farm rated motors protect overheating 75-100% in 70 -75 temp weather?
2. My Electric log SplitterâÂÂs 1hp motor does not like weather over 70 degrees, I was late starting, doubled the job vs having small blocks to work later.
3. I finished in approx an hr due to all donated Red Oak not clean and Matted Pecan (8â slice X 40â dia in 6 sections). The Red Oak was no Challenge to split (9-12 ton splitter) due to at least one flat end to push.
4. The only sign of heat from monitoring was placing my hand on the motor (2-3 seconds was the limit) and no heat or smell at the breaker, receptacle, cord, and other parts of splitter.
5. My one experience was when you stop the motor, it gets hotter and w/n start until it was cooler (over a year ago in 100 degree heat vs today).
6. Attached are blocks I split today.

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mla2ofus

Ambient air temp will make a difference on the thermo switch in your motor. It might be a good idea to check if mud daubers or other bugs have built a nest in it. They love places like that. Yes, it will protect your motor. In extreme heat it might help to have a fan blowing on the motor to help carry away the heat.
Mike

This post was edited by mla2ofus on Wed, Apr 23, 14 at 21:47

    Bookmark   April 23, 2014 at 9:45PM
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loger_gw

Thanks for the quick reply mla2ofus.

1. The motor is sealed to keep insects/dust out. I will try an additional fan if that is known to help a sealed motor (new to me).
2. It has ext fan/fins for cooling. It seem to work well in cooler weather w/o any concerned heat in 1-2 hrs (our limits).
3. I would say the hard Red Oak has a little to do with the matter but there were very few efforts needed to split the wood.

    Bookmark   April 23, 2014 at 10:16PM
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hippy

Most electric 120AC 1 HP log splitters are around the 5 to 7ton size.

From what I see in the photo. Larger logs with a lot of knots it would put a lot of stress on a 1 hp electric motor trying to split it.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2014 at 12:05AM
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loger_gw

Thanks Hippy!

1. The modified splitter is 9-12 tons from formula and performance, (started by a friend and I have finished to this point).
2. It has done with ease more than I expected. I reduced the limits to 12â -16â dia clean wood (more 12 dia respecting the splitter and me).
3 . Most green or seasoned clean 12-16 â dia, 16â long splits @ less than 1000 psi and fluid bypass at 1500 psi.
4. I tried to insert a url of a rear view but something has changed since I used PhotoBucket last. Excuse the second post to show the second view.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2014 at 7:11PM
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loger_gw

Thanks Hippy!

SplitterâÂÂs Rear View.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2014 at 7:23PM
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loger_gw

Thanks Hippy!

SplitterâÂÂs Rear View.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2014 at 7:39PM
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bill_kapaun

I assume the motor only runs when actually splitting or retracting and then OFF while you set up the next log?

Think of it this way. You work the motor hard and then shut it off so the heat doesn't have a chance to escape.

Maybe run a "dry cycle" once in a while when splitting the heavy stuff to blow a little cooling air through it?
You might want to take a break yourself every few minutes nad just hold the button?

    Bookmark   April 24, 2014 at 8:40PM
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hippy

Good looking set up.

Not sure on your complete setup.

First. Most electric motors only run at around 1700 RPMs. If your pump is designed for a gasoline engine (32-3700 RPMs) it will only work 1/2 as fast.

Example: If it is designed to pump 20 GPM at 3600 RPMs. With an electric it will only pump around 9 or 10 GPM.

Second. The filter appears to be located on the supply side (from the tank to the inlet side of the pump). It should be on the return side of the valve (valve to tank line). With the pump having to create enough vacuum to pull the fluid through the filter before it reaches the pumps inlet can make the motor work harder than it should.

The beam and ram that pushes the log does not appear to be greased. Increased friction at this point will also put extra stress on the motor.

Last thing I am not seeing. A vent on top of the hydraulic tank. If it is sealed when the pump is running and the oil gets hot and expands. A vacuum can be created inside of the system. Again forcing the motor to work harder to overcome it.

Here is a little formula to ponder on. Look at your pumps output capacity (GPM) and do some math.

Power required by a a pump with 20 gpm capacity and 1500 psi pressure.

Example. 20 gpm X 1500 psi = 30,000 divide by 1714 = 17.5 HP needed to operate the pump efficiently.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2014 at 11:04PM
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loger_gw

Splitter Info:

Mr kapaun:
The motor runs constantly from log to log as they are piled close as the small number showed. I turned the splitter off 2-3 times to get logs closer to my folding chair (LOL!).

Mr Hippy:
1. I feel the splitter was initially manually hydraulic (with mower wheels on the back and a handle on the front) before my friend installed the pump/tank/motor/gauge that appears compatible.
2. I added the filter in the suction side per repair shopâÂÂs instructions w/o any blow-outs or noted pressure. At the 2nd 180.00 repair from not pushing the rod straight due to no guides I added seeing cyl/piston/seals side wear.
3. IâÂÂll attach what the splitter was when given to me and it handle 8-12â dia wood w/o an effort or better than my efforts.
4. There is a 1/8â vent in the tankâÂÂs plug (ver to hor to prevent ext rain Etc) but I h/n ever notice any heat at 5 gal tank or 4â cyl.

Thanks for the help and More Help!!

    Bookmark   April 25, 2014 at 11:19PM
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