At least two holes are stripped out and wont hold. It is an 041 Farm Boss that I bought new in 1977. I need some suggestions. for a fix. TIA
Yah. I thought of that, but I am unsure if over boring the holes will weaken the case. What ever I end up doing, I am gonna go to studs and nuts. I just mixed up a new batch of mix and sharpened the chain. The saw runs great. I suppose I should get off my ever widening backside and take a look. :)
Please show a good close pic of the area that inserting threads might weaken the case. I know the preference of wanting studs and nuts. I c/n find a good pic with the starter off. What I did see appears the starter is combined with the oil reservoir. Is that true? If so, is oil leaking due to the side coming off and lack of gasket pressures or is the oil contained. What am I missing, an insert? My two 70Ã¢ÂÂs Poland S-25 have split oil tanks both leak w/o the stress of the starter vs case vibration.
1. Could you tap in studs and install them into JB Weld if you can get the holes clean enough?
2. Could you clean the holes well enough to fill them with JB Weld and tap in the studs?
Yup, That looks like the saw. Its a gas tank. You cant see the 4 5mm screws that hold the assembly to the case. The 2 stripped holes are the forward ones. I can re-tap to a 10-24 thread The top holes are under the air cleaner.
I ended up using a 6mm fine thread bolt that is about 50mm long with a nut on it holding the tension. If it works I'll cut off the excess. The front bottom got a 10-32 pan head screw. No drilling or tapping yet. I'm just using the next size up that grabs. This has been an on going trouble with the Stihl for about 25 yrs. The saw was factory assembled with blue loc tite. I dropped the saw out of a tree I was limbing and cracked the case. I repaired the case good as new , but I should have re loc tited. I dint and parts occasionally fall off . One time 2 screws fell out and I ended up with the starter and the tank in my hand. when I tried to start it. So now I have 2 boogered up tabs to contend with as well. The housing is die cast aluminum and takes JB Weld and rivets very well.
The saga continues. Latest to fall off was the muffler. Ive got a tree I want to finish bucking up. I have a parts saw. I harvested the gasket and the 6mm allen heads. Of course the 35 yr old fuel line crumbled. I had the line off the parts saw, but it is petrified and I needed some flex. I pulled a jar out of the re-cycling , filled it with water , put the line in and nuked it for 2 minutes, It worked. I gassed up the saw and finished off the job.
As it was, I had the housing , the carb and the chain off. to gain access to the exhaust port. Sorry gennulmen, no pics , but the one ring piston and cylinder are smooth and shiny. There was little if any carbon on the exhaust port.
The saw is specc'ed to run a 40:1 mix. I was advised by a buddy to mix at 32: 1 So I have since day one. I have a weed wacker and a Mantis set for 50:1 That I run on my mix. I also add MMO to every fill up so that just richens the mix further. I will never be convinced that less oil is better.
The condition of the saw's jug just re-inforces my superstition
I like your style which makes me feel better about my mid 70s saws and equipment (2 Poland S25s) and Etc. For peace of mind I still mix my "Old Equipment's" fuel as label or have moved the oil up to reduce mixes. I had one to lockup with a reduced mix but there were other variables (over 10 yrs old, over 100 degrees temp). Needing just a piston and ring set vs a jug was a plus.
I have modified "you name it" as challenges as long as the saws or Etc are productive and rational. Plus, I'm using 70s surplus that I doubt I'll use-up. Most of all, I have not had to purchase a new "Plastic Mid Range" saw or Etc.
Yah , I wasnt raised to throw things away, that needed just a little to get working