Troy-Bilt Horse Tiller assistance

dave_danger(West Central Ga)May 18, 2005

Hello All, a new member here! Hope to absorb lots of info from you all :)

Several years ago, I inherited a Troy-Bilt Tiller from my Dad... a "Horse" model I believe. He purchased it along about the mid-70's as I remember. It's a recoil start, Tecumseh engine... approximately 8 to 10 HP. It has always started and run well, so I have had no need to ever chase parts for it. Suddenly however, it's leaking fuel from the carb, running badly and is needing some major work. I'm an aircraft mechanic and am capable of doing the necessary wrenchwork, whatever it comes to. I suspect I'll need to purchase a carb overhaul kit at the very least. I can't find however a single dataplate on this unit anywhere that identifies it exactly! Is there anyone that can give me some assistance on determining exactly what I have as far as year model, model #, etc. ??

I've looked and can't find any manuals that I may have had over the years. Nothing :(

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

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I have a Troy_Bilt Horse from the early 80s with a Tecumseh 6HP engine. It had the characters HH60 stamped into the sheet metal cover. I'm guessing an 8 HP would have the characters HH80 stamped in. I don't think they put 10 HP engines on them back then.

    Bookmark   May 18, 2005 at 5:53PM
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I don't remember anything higher than 8 HP back then. Most likely it has a Tecumseh or Lawson carburetor and you probably need the float bowl o ring and maybe a bowl nut gasket. Any dealer should have them.

    Bookmark   May 18, 2005 at 8:17PM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

Alright, I have a bit more info now. (I took the tiller to a local car wash and pressure washed several years of dirt and grime off of it). I've located several numbers now.. Still not sure exactly what model I have but on several castings of the frame there are numbers like TH1003, TH1004, TH1006, and so on. I suspect they stand for TroyBilt "Horse" and the numbers are individual part casting numbers. The Tiller serial number is 330078 (Possibly a 1978 model?) The Tecumseh engine cover that houses the recoil pulley has a number of: HH60-105106F, and a serial No. of 8094D. I still am not 100 % sure of my model name (Horse, Pony, Big Red, etc) and year. If anyone can assist me here I'd appreciate it.
baymee, this tiller started running very roughly, surging and backfiring the last season I used it, well before it started leaking fuel. I agree that the float and gaskets are probably the cause of the leaks, but I suspect I have more problems to address before it gets that easy :) I've begun a nearly complete disassembly, cleaning, painting and reassembly before I use it this spring, so I'll solve every problem I can identify as I go. Any hints are appreciated.

    Bookmark   May 19, 2005 at 6:30PM
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erstanfo(8/9 Olympia WA)

Sounds like timing is off, check flywheel key, points gap etc. A freinds early '70's 6 hp Kohler had that problem.

    Bookmark   May 19, 2005 at 7:33PM
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You have a 6hp Tecumseh engine(HH-60 Heavy Horizontal shaft,cast iron engien ,nice engine) ,the 8hp was either a Briggs or Kohler ,You carb is full of stale fuel/crud/etc,and will need a rebulid kit ,if it really bad ,a new carb is the best way to go (I know I use to work for Gardenway in the early eighties) .
The spitting sputtering,and kick back is caused by a lean condition in the carb,the main jet is restricted ...
It will be fun to see how many new words you learn......going from a plane engine to a single cylinder ...
I have the manuals on the tiller transmission if you need any further help...bring all you ENGINE numbers to a good Tecumseh dealer and they should be abale to get you a carb kit,then stop by a book store and get a book on rebuilding Tecumseh motors/carbs !
Good Luck Jim

    Bookmark   May 19, 2005 at 8:02PM
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tekumcman(Upstate SC)


Carb kit is part# 31840. Replacement carb is part
number 631828. Float 632019. If this engine's been
sitting for several years, a new carb WILL BE your
best solution. You may also have to "unstick" the
intake valve due to gum/varnish on the valve stem
and in the guide. The HH60's were GREAT, TOUGH
engines. Tecumseh ceased building them in 1994 due
to low demand for a much more expensive cast-iron
engine vs. a sleeved aluminum engine, and the BUNCHES
OF $$$'s involved with continuing an assembly line
to build (exclusively) these types of engines/blocks.
S0...the HH engine "faded into the sunset of history".
With a good machine shop, you can "RE-NEW" the old girl
to BETTER than she was...NEW. Best of luck !!!


    Bookmark   May 21, 2005 at 11:32PM
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Remove the bowl/nut/adj. screw from the bottom of the
carb and remove the bowl. Pull the pin and drop the float
off and shake it, it could possiblly be full of fuel.
Clean the bowl nut/adj.crew thoroughly, cleaning the tiny
holes in the side of it, and look for an absolutely tiny
one at the base of the threads, and clean it ou with a wire.
Replace the float if it is full of fuel, and reassemble,
and see how it runs.

    Bookmark   May 23, 2005 at 8:17AM
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Would also replace the points with an electronic ignition. Did this to mine(same model)several years ago due to hard starting and now starts with the first pull every time.

    Bookmark   May 23, 2005 at 8:39AM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

I've located and purchased a carb overhaul kit and new gaskets and a new muffler. Am in the process of disassembly and cleaning right now. Doesn't actually look too bad so far. Does look like I'll have to drill and EZ-Out out the bolts that hold the muffler to the head, they won't budge.
Anyone have an idea of a part number for the rubber sleeved pulley that operates the drive wheels into reverse? Mine's shredded.

    Bookmark   May 23, 2005 at 2:24PM
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how bad is the old muffler? Many older engines have a
backup threaded hole for a screw in muffler with pipe threads, but I am not sure about yours.
The reverse disc can be bought aftermarket as well, but I
do not have my catalogs handy with a part number, but I
will get back to you.
Did the old float have gas in it? The float does not
usually come with the carb kit.

    Bookmark   May 23, 2005 at 8:21PM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

The old muffler was rusted completely away, no baffles left at all. I have a new original equip muffler, and successfully unscrewed the longer of the two mounting bolts. The shorter one, I did have to drill the head off, to remove the old muffler. I noted the internal threads for a screw-in muffler, but they were nearly rusted away as well. I carefully drilled through the center of the remainder of that short bolt, increasing the drill size until I had removed all of the bolt material. I then drilled the hole one size over (21/64ths) and installed a .75" length Heli-Coil® thread insert (Better than the original threads in the aluminum head!). I am searching through my aviation hardware bins now for a couple of stainless steel replacement bolts with Allen head internal drive instead of those soft Phillips-head screws.
I pulled the head and inspected the interior of the cylinder bore, looks to be in great shape. The valves were not stuck, but had lots of carbon built up. I cleaned those and glass-bead blasted the interior of the head itself. I honed the valve seats and valve faces with a ultra-fine grit lapping compound. (When I started, I could pour a teaspoon of gasoline over the valves, and it would immediately seep down through the valve seats even when closed). They're as tight as socks on a rooster now :)
I managed to remove the reverse disc as well, it's shredded pretty badly. I did manage to contact MTD this morning and have a Troy-Bilt Parts manual on its way (7 to 10 days) for my unit. They were able to tell me that for the serial # I have, it is definitely a Troy-Bilt Horse II (No factory model #).
The original brass float in my carb seems to be in pretty good shape. You're correct in saying that one doesn't come with the kit, but it looks like this one will work again.
I would appreciate a part number for an original or aftermarket rubber reverse disk whenever you have the time to search it for me.


    Bookmark   May 24, 2005 at 2:07AM
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The Horse II with the 6 h.p., shows a Troybilt part #1919,
which supercedes to GW-1919. Any mower shop should be able to get it from MTD, or other aftermarket sources. If not,
let me know.

    Bookmark   May 24, 2005 at 5:08AM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

Hey again Guys,
Just a question or two of curiosity here... My new OEM TroyBilt parts manual (Printed and mailed by MTD) arrived the other evening and I spent a while browsing through it. One thing that caught my attention is that the manual calls out two different part #'s for the left and right "Bar-Tread" tires on my Horse II. They look identical, and according to the Goodyear numbers on my actual tires, they are. Anyone have an idea why different numbers ?
On the same subject, I nearly lost my religion trying to remove and reinstall one of these tires from the wheel recently. It had been flat for a while and actually had dirt and sand grit inside the tire that I wanted to clean out before trying to inflate. I eventually managed to get the tire back on the wheel but I scraped knuckles that I'd not touched in years of aircraft maintenance! Does anyone know of a two-piece wheel assy that will work with these 8" inner diameter Bar-tread tires?

    Bookmark   June 6, 2005 at 3:15PM
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ironhat(So. Cent. PA)

I got lost reading all of those posts - lots of good stuff and the rebuild is a common-sense first step. Be sure to check your float for gasoline inside. They are soldered together and often develope a pinhole allowing fuel to enter the void. This makes the float less buoyant and then the needle valve, which rests on the pivot arm of the float, fails to seat. This allows gas to keep entering the bowl and over-fill it. Just pull the float (don't lose the valve needle!) and shake it and listen for liquid sloshing. I don't know if the rebuild kits come with a float so this needs to be addressed when you buy your parts.
Good luck - it's not a hard job. Just take your time.

    Bookmark   June 8, 2005 at 11:16AM
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petermcc41(Z4 VT)

I have the same model and a similar issue. What is the float level setting? The motor runs great while the choke is partially closed,but dies once the choke is opened fully.

    Bookmark   June 10, 2005 at 1:51PM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

I inserted the following paragraph from the repair manual I just purchased through Barnes & Noble Booklstore ($20.00). (This applies only to Tecumseh or Walbro carburetors) "Invert the carburetor and check the float level by measuring the gap between the float and the carb body on the side directly opposite the pivot pin. The float should just barely touch a 7/64th to 1/8th" drill bit inserted between the float and the circular edge of the carb base. If the float is too high or too low, carefully bend the tab near the float hinge until the correct heigth is obtained".
If this doesn't make sense, e-mail me privately and I will attach a scanned illustration showing the drill bit placement.

    Bookmark   June 10, 2005 at 3:23PM
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The nut/screw on the bottom of the carb is also the jet,
and on the older carbs has an adjustable thumbscrew. In either case, the thing must be clean, and any/all of the
tiny holes in the side of it must be clear. If it has an adjustable screw, turn it counter-clockwise to richen the
mixture. If this does not cure the problem, the clog may
be in the passages directly above it in the carb.

    Bookmark   June 12, 2005 at 1:06PM
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As far as the wheels go, it might be a different part number, depending on the tire's direction.
I tried buying just a rim for a horse once, as the tire
was fine, but Troybilt only sold the wheel/tire as an assembly.
I do not know of a supplier that makes a split rim
assembly that will fit the Horse.

    Bookmark   June 12, 2005 at 1:25PM
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I have a Tecumseh Lawson 6 hp engine. The gas line hose cracked and I tried to remove it from both ends. The end that goes into the engine pulled out very hard and it turns out that it was attached somehow to a metal cylindrical piece inside the cover to the piston housing. I don't know what this is called nor how to reinstall a gas line hose on it since it is loose inside the cover plate. The cover plate into which the hose went is just to the right of the muffler and behind it. Any ideas? Thanks.

    Bookmark   June 14, 2005 at 9:45PM
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You can cheat and run the fuel line around the front of the
engine, it is not pretty, but works well.

    Bookmark   June 15, 2005 at 5:35AM
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Tiller(76134 TX)

I have a Troy bilt tiller that was given to me that needs some extensive repairs. The bearings at both ends of the cranckcase are gone but I believe the main shaft is still good. It has evidently had some water collect in it because there was no oil in the cranckcase and everything was rusted up. I have it broken down to a point where I will have to have some of the parts heated to break the rust loose in order to dismantle it completely. There were some numbers on the side of the case(205080T) also a 1/82 which I presume to be the mfg. date. also the letters BF with the numeral #1 underneath. I could use a repair manual if one exsists also some info on what exactly I have. I was told it was a Troy bilt Jr. It has a 5hp B/S engine with an electric start, which most likely did
not come with it originally?
Thanks for any help,

    Bookmark   November 20, 2005 at 12:25AM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

Tiller, I googled the word Troy-Bilt on the web back when I first started this thread and was working daily on my project. I found that the original Troy-Bilt company has bankrupted, and gone out of business, but that MTD has bought up the rights and apparently is doing a fair job of providing parts and service and publications. I don't remember now exactly where I found the number, but I found a phone # on the MTD website that connected me to a department that assisted me in determining my exact model and the parts and service manulas that are necessary to work on it. I think you will find that a great deal of the parts are available through commercial mower and small engine shops all over the place. So far I've not had to order anything long distance for working on mine. It was either in stock at a local commercial mower shop or could be gotten overnight through their regular supply lines. Ask any large lawn service operator in your area, what shop works on his equipment and make a bee-line for their parts counter. Make friends with the guy that works there :) These things aren't super complicated to repair and keep working. They're fairly simple and work like mules when they're kept up.

    Bookmark   November 20, 2005 at 5:36PM
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Hey folks. I am new to the site and to Troybilt. I just purchased a used Troybilt tiller. It is a Horse with a 7HP B&S motor and is in fantastic shape. The original paint is still on the tines along with all labels. However, I did not get an owners manual or parts manual with it. I cannot find a model number anywhere on the tiller. I am assuming I have a P/N of 0942824. Can anyone tell me where to find the model number and about how old is my machine?


    Bookmark   January 14, 2006 at 8:05PM
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Maverick if you look over the right axle, on the transmission houseing,cover. Theres a 6=8 digiet number,just keep in mind some oweners upgraded supplement things and what was original no longer apply's.with those numbers you can get a manual from look for a phone number to for parts i use ...well the parts are available and reasonable priced, don't know about the quality? :( you can get manual info off of MTD web site that goes back to 78 which is poor at best...the aftermarket cd sold on web sites are absolutely worthless, good as a coffee coaster/// By the way welcome to the site....I haven't had to deal with MTD on the tillers yet, but when it was "garden way" all you had to do was listen to the tech tell you what ever you wanted to know to set the tiller up "properly" and it worked, just don't try to make it do what it doesn't want to do, the mechine will win :)

    Bookmark   January 15, 2006 at 1:50AM
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I have found out that my tiller model is a Horse 4. Does anyone about how old this model is.

    Bookmark   January 29, 2006 at 9:34AM
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To: Maverick: Look on the engine starter housing. Thats the big tin cover over the flywheel area! Clean off the dirt, rust, paint if bad, then look on the side, top, or rounded part of that tin cover, for several sets of numbers/letter combinations, stamped into the tin! There should be HH60 or HH80, and some other sets of numbers! they tell you the h.p., the year of manufacture, engine serial number, etc. These are what we need to help you!
Rusty Jones

    Bookmark   January 29, 2006 at 12:14PM
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It's my understanding the older models were 2 speed and the later ones 4 and maybe called horse 4 ? I never heard them called that though, the 4 speed model should have two drive shafts out the rear of the engine. The troy-bilt tillers could be purchased with a tecumseh or Kolher engine.

    Bookmark   January 29, 2006 at 2:05PM
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I will check my machine for the numbers soon. MTD is the ones calling it a Horse 4. It does have high and low with forward and reverse so it could represent a four speed. My manual should be in the mail this week. Hopefully there is some good info in it. Thanks for your help.

    Bookmark   January 30, 2006 at 6:57AM
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Here is one for the record books. I have found out that the model I have is called an O.P.C. Horse4 (Operators Presence Control). It is a 1987-1991 production with attachments such as log splitter, generator etc. Although the attachments are no longer available. The good folks at MTD helped me put all the info together to figure it out.

    Bookmark   January 30, 2006 at 5:46PM
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I have a Troy-Bilt Econo-Horse 7hp Tecumseh. Does nayone know where I can get a picture or drawing of the throttle linkage, govenor spring set up? Thanks

    Bookmark   February 1, 2006 at 3:55PM
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I have an old Troy-Bilt Horse I'm fixing up. Troy-Bilt service tech told me I have a "Horse 1". A PDF of an original manual is available on their web site. The Tech told me to put in "Horse" for the model number and "1" for the serial number. It worked!!! You get Horse 1 and 2 owners manuals and parts catalogs. These are real owners manuals...tells you how to tear that sucker down and put it back together again. It's over 150 pages.

You might try putting in "4" (or "IV") for the serial number. I tried to go check it out but they were down for maintenance. Hope this helps you as much as it did me.

    Bookmark   February 8, 2006 at 1:41PM
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I have a Troy Bilt Tiller with the following information on it. TH-1003, BF4, 1256. Stamped numbers 831487. I need to replace the engine. I have not found a serial number or model number on the motor. It is a Tecumseh recoil start. Any help is appreciated.

    Bookmark   March 30, 2006 at 5:33PM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

I found the (Tecumseh) engine model number on the left hand side of the engine as you look forward from the handlebars... mine is stamped HH60-105106F, means Heavy duty case, horizontal shaft, 6.0 HP. The numbers are a specification number that tells a parts department exactly what accessories or options are installed as original equipment. As I remember, the numbers are actually stamped into the Lh side of the sheet metal shroud that covers the recoil start assembly and flywheel, not actually into the crankcase/block itself. The HH60 designation is a Tecumseh, not a Troy-Bilt number.
The best I can figure, those TH-whatever numbers that are all over a Troy-Bilt tiller are individual casting numbers that are used during the mnanufacture process. Don't mean too awfully much to us down here at the dirt end :)

    Bookmark   April 2, 2006 at 7:34PM
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I'm kind of going away from the subject, but I'm desperate. I have a 1972 Horse Troy Bilt and need to order parts. MTD now makes Troy Bilts, but do not carry the parts from this old of a model. Any ideas on where to get parts? Please email me ASAP at Any help appreciated.

    Bookmark   April 20, 2006 at 9:20PM
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I also bought a used Horse 4 and I downloaded a manual off the internet. I found out how you get four speeds, (it has two sets of pulleys), the front pulley is the high speed and the rear pulley is the lower speed. All you have to do is put the forward and reverse level in neutral and move the belt to the front for high speed and to the rear for low speed.

    Bookmark   April 27, 2006 at 11:03AM
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Has anyone checked out or bought parts from Zacm Co.? ( I have an old Troy-Bilt Horse (early 70's)with a Tecumseh engine (HH-60) which busted the Con-rod and also damaged the piston. I see they also have the Troy-Bilt parts. I like old American made stuff.

    Bookmark   April 27, 2006 at 9:36PM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

Off the subject a bit, but... alsmith5, you in the East Alabam/West Georgia area by chance?

    Bookmark   April 28, 2006 at 12:06AM
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Need used carb and starter shroud for 70's 6HP Tecumseh.

    Bookmark   May 19, 2006 at 7:58AM
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i also have a troybilt 1975 horse with tecumseh HH60 engine. cound not find a parts breakdown. for tiller parts go to and send them a message with name and serial number of the tiller . I ask them if parts were available for mine and they told they have every part to completely rebuild if i needed.

    Bookmark   May 22, 2006 at 7:14PM
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Yet another tale of sweat, determination, research and greasy tired days of restoration of an old Troy Bilt Rototiller to bore you folks with. Some one gave me a complete but not running Horse 1 with a Tecumseh HH60 (6 HP) cast iron engine. From the serial number on the engine I determined that it was Assembled some time during April of 1972, The Rototiller serial number is 34004,making it a Horse 1 and the engine serial number indicates it was assembled on the 101 st day of 1972 (Just about when I got out of the Navy 34 years ago). To make a long story short, My brother (a retired aviation mechanic) and I (a retired helper and junk yard grade grease monkey and electronic technician) Took 3 weeks to find a leaky front oil seal, a bad condenser, a set of points, a worn out carburetor (replaced), two new belts, couple of loose bolts, a new spark plug and a new head gasket for a grand total of 150 dollars to get the old girl running in fine shape. Everything came step by step and was verrry tiring, but quite rewarding. I also changed the engine oil, lubricated the machine and replaced the transmission grease with new 90 WT oil. The basic engine components were in decent shape(probably due to lack of use). The cross hatch pattern was still present inside the cylinder bore. The valve seats looked excellent. Apparently like like a lot of rubber things( hoses, front oil seals, etc) made in 1972, the front oil seal was of poor quality. As soon as someone would crank the machine up, the shrunken seal would leak oil and foul the points with it. After that, the engine would not run for beans. For this reason, it had not been used very much either. The rest of the machine has no oil leaks on the axle or tiller tine shaft. I love to cultivate with it. It makes life so much easier than using a hoe to weed.

The old Horse 1 spends its days in the nice warm dry barn and helps an old man weed his garden from time to time. I think I will paint it bright red one hot day this summer, just to see what it will look like.

A special thanks to my brother Bob for helping me and spending 3 weeks with his worthless and unworthy little brother to get the old roto tiller purring again. Thanks Bob.

34 years later, the old Troy bilt Horse 1 finally runs right and purrs happily along as it cultivates my garden with ease. Hope you all have a decent garden this year.

Regards, Pag

    Bookmark   June 1, 2006 at 8:29PM
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Note to barrell4jr 7 Fri, May 19, 06 at 7:58 Concerning the used carburetor for your HH60 Tecumseh made in 1972. I bought a new Tecumseh carburetor for just such a machine (serial# 34004 Horse I) for about 84 dollars. The old carburetor was dirty, plugged and had shaft wear that let excessive air in and could not be adjusted for Idle. If it were just replaceable parts that wore out, I would have opted to replace and rebuild, but the body (shaft area) was worn after 34 years and I do not have a cure for that. If I had spent money on parts only to find that the body was worn, I would have been out time, money and still had a bad carburetor. Sometimes it is better to replace rather than repair if repair is not a practical option. This is a judgement you have to make each time you look at something that is not functioning properly. Note concerning high speed adjustment, the final high speed jet adjustment (large screw on the bottom of the carburetor bowl) is done after the machine is hot, run 15 minutes tilling. Walking along side the tiller as it tills at full RPM, crank the screw backward and it will richen and run slower, crank it in and it will run faster as it leans out till it runs fine.

Best of luck

Regards, Pag

    Bookmark   June 2, 2006 at 11:48AM
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I have a horse with the standard 8hp Kohler magnum engine on it. I would like to restore & repaint it but I can not find either the model number or serial number. The date code on the engine indicates it was built in the early to mid 80s. Does anyone know what the model number & a srail number for an electric start horse is? On the Troy Bilt site parts section it asks for both a model number and serial number to search for replacement parts nut I can not find either on my tille. Is there a site to purchase a set of replacement decalsl for an older 8hp horse? Also has any one know what what the red color is or a good replacemnt.

    Bookmark   June 23, 2006 at 8:41PM
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From what i understand,left/right/front/rear is given from the view of operator, so looking down on the tiller, the serial number is 6 numbers. on the tranny case 'stamped' below tranny top plate where the T handle 'for rotateing' the handle bars. You already know its a horse, so use the number '1' for model, on the MTD site.

    Bookmark   June 23, 2006 at 11:09PM
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I just bought an old Troy-Bilt Horse--just like one that I owned in the late 1970s. It has serial number 408914. Does anyone know the date of manufacture. I need to get a drive disk for the reverse since it is chewed up pretty badly.

When I pulled the starter cord on the Tecumsa engine it fired right up but would not stay running so I checked the air filter and it was junked! I tried running it without and with a bit of adjustement on the jet on the bottom of the carburator bowl it ran great. Then when I put a new filter on it ran for awhile, then the air filter fell off. When I went to pick it up it was HOT and it had started to melt the rubber seal part of the filter causing it to loosen and fall off. I pulled the muffler off and put a 3/4 inch pipe and elbow in the threaded exhaust port and took the exhaust away from the air filter. I put a screw-on muffler in the end of the pipe and that solved the problem. I have run it for a couple of days and it works great! It is so much better than a smaller rear-tine tiller I got new a couple of years ago and so much easier to use.

    Bookmark   August 4, 2006 at 12:44AM
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If you need a reverse disc, let me know. Parts are still


    Bookmark   August 5, 2006 at 6:50AM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

I had pretty good luck calling MTD at one of the phone numbers on their website, and speaking to someone in the Troybilt parts department. They not only told me what year mine was, but what exact model it was. I ordered and received a parts and service catalog for mine at the same time. I presume most folks are aware that Troybilt as a company exists no longer. MTD purchased the remains of the troybilt company and continues to provide parts and service. go to this website and contact them...

    Bookmark   August 5, 2006 at 10:35AM
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I do need a reverse disk. How much is one? I saw some on ebay but they said they were all for 1989 and newer models--they were about $15. Please let me know.

    Bookmark   August 8, 2006 at 4:28PM
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Fish I need a reverse disc. How do I contac ya ? TIA

    Bookmark   August 8, 2006 at 8:55PM
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I have 1978 Horse II. Serial #347108..I need part number 1019, the cast iron part that goes between the handle bars and the transmission. It is held on by the "T" handle. I was transporting uphill when the transmission dropped out of high speed and I took a ride downhill with the tiller and rolled it(and myself). I don't know what came out the worse. I damaged my rotator cuff and the tiller snapped the part identified above. Any help would be appreciated.

    Bookmark   August 20, 2006 at 11:27AM
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dirt turner:

I have the part, used but quite functional, but I am clear over here in Ohio. I'd give it up for $2.00 but you would pay dearly for shipping, I imagine.

    Bookmark   August 22, 2006 at 1:16PM
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As I have threatened to do in a previous message, I painted my old 1972 Horse 1 that my brother and I resurrected this spring. To begin with, I took it down into about 11 major pieces. I did not want to take it apart anymore than I had to, but I did want to get good paint coverage. Everything got sanded down, scuffed and steel wooled. Then I Washed it with water and soap and a brush. When it dried in the sun, I washed it with gasoline and another washing with soap and a good rinsing with water. I blew if off with compressed air and let it dry in the sun. When it was nice and hot and dry, I masked off things I did not want to paint and spray painted the rest of it with a coat of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. It looked much better than the coat of rust and dirt that it had previously worn. The next day I sprayed a coat of Rustoleum Red (Sunrise Red I think) on everything and let it dry. The Wheels and tires were removed a couple of days later and they were scuffed, cleaned, primed and painted with a Rustoleum white paint from a spray can. The damned machine looks like brand new. I did not put new tires on it,but am thinking about it for the future. I Know that Carlisle Tire makes a 4.80x4.00x8.00 AG tire (lug pattern) that is 15 inches high and should fit. Will think about this and see if I want to commit the 50 dollars or so to buy them. Right now I put the old tubeless tires back on with tubes in them. I hope this paint job makes up for the 34 years that the machine has been kicking around, stored anywhere and getting rusty and ratty looking. I can not get over how it came out. A fitting tribute to the way it runs now. It makes me smile to look at the machine now. They cultivate nicely. It makes gardening a pleasure rather than a dreaded chore. The garden gets planted in a 4 foot by 4 foot pattern to allow ample room for the 20 inch wide tiller to negotiate the planting without gobbling up any plants once they are bushed out. Happy gardening folks.


    Bookmark   September 23, 2006 at 11:57PM
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sunslight(Utah z5-6)

Congratulations to all who have "REAL" Troy-bilts."
Those Horse models were/are exceptional machines.
You can expect parts to wear down, need to replace an engine (I think there is a company in Indiana that makes Engines for Troy-bilts that have the bore already made for an exact fit-- but my point is, if you can, keep the machine.
Repair it as you can or get someone to do it.

My good old 6 Hp, Techum. Horse, built in the 50's, blew a rod--my mistake.

After many years of service, my HORSE finally, broke a rod.
I learned a lot by replacing it. This was done while Troy-bilt was still Troy-bilt and not MTD. The company was very helpful. I learned a lot. --but wow, removint the cast-iron engine was a bear--it could use two people.

Anyway, it worked for a few more years but was constantly, loosing pulling-power, through my heavy, clay, soil; and I am at altitude: approx. 4,800 ft, so the 6 HP was probably more like 4.

One year, early spring it seemed dry enough to till.
So, I crancked it up. It started great.

Then I increased the throttle and the rod I had replaced a few years earlier, broke.

It was my fault.
I didn't have a clue that starting a small engine that uses 30 weight oil, would have a problem when it was cold outside: about 32 degress F.

The weight of the oil, couldn't overcome the cold, to lubricate the internal works. It might have been okay, if I hadn't opened the throttle all the way. Because as soon as I did, that's when I heard "clank" and no more engine.
==so just a word to those of us who are on a learning curve, & I think this applies to all small engines--don't run it without making sure the oil is warm enough to lubricate the rod and piston. If you need to take a heater and use it to warm the crankcase, then DO it!

What a long intro to get to my point:

With the rod gone and I really didn't want to go through the trouble of putting in another, especially with an engine that was underpowered, I decided to look for a new engine.

The local dealer, who was one of the few authorized Troy-bilt shops, told me a new engine, with 8 Hp. would cost about $700.
Not having much money, I couldn't see putting that sum into such an old machine--big mistake.

This was in early 2000/2001?

The dealer then suggested, since my garden is on the border line of being the size to need a horse or using a "pony," I could go with a brand new Pony for about $400 more.

It was a difficult choice, but to get a new engine, a new Troy-bilt--I finally thought okay.

When I got it, I immediately noticed how much lighter it was. It also didn't have features that the Horse had--as a "babe-in-the-woods," I expected it to be just a sized down, Horse. But it wasn't. Not even close.
I was vey disappointed, but what could I do? The purchase had been made. They took my old Horse as part of the deal.
I had my new tiller and that was that.

It just didn't do the job like the Horse--even with its worn out engine.

Then I learned that MTD had bought out the company. actually--I was told Troy-bilt had shut its doors and all the Troy-bilts were actually MTD machines: Troy-bilt in name only.

This seems to be true.

I looked at my tiller and I had the 1st year run, of MTD Troy-Bilt. Rats, I missed a real one by one year.

If the dealer had been up front and told me that what I was buying wasn't really a Troy-bilt, but an MTD, I'd probably had gone with a Troy-bilt competitor or chosen to replace the engine.

I wish I had my cast-iron Horse back.
For those who have their real Troy-bilts, keep them if you can, repair them, paint them, do whatever it takes.

The old saying, they don't make them like they used to, really applies here.

Today, you can't buy a Troy-bilt, only a machine with its name and (former) reputation.

From my experience, a shinny new one, is just not the same as the old, Horse. It's a completely differently animal, with a completely different pedigree.

So, as I began: congratulations to all of you who have "Troy-bilt Horse tillers," before they became MTD machines. Keep them going and you'll be lots happier.

--BTW for those who only know the MTD brand, I'm not bad-mouthing them, but you don't know what the old ones were like. I think I could compare it to driving a BMW to driving a Yugo.
If all you've ever know is the Yugo, then it's great, and you are happy with it. But for me and maybe most who have had the experience of having one then going to the other, the difference is so obvious. Just try to pick up an old horse by yourself; then try to do the same with a new one. You'd see what I mean.

I hope this inspires you who have the non-MTDs, to keep your Troy-bilts if you can. It is well worth what you go through for repairs/rebuilds.

Just my opinon.

    Bookmark   September 25, 2006 at 12:08PM
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If anyone is looking for replacement tires for their Horse 1 and does not want to use the 4.80x4.00x8.00 diamond stud pattern (usually goodyear original equip) that came with the Horse 1, Carlisle tire makes a 4.80x4.00x8.00 lugged Agricultural tractor style tire that will fit the Horse 1 wheel perfectly. It is about the same height when installed, 16.1 inches. the Carlisle part number (product code they call it) is 5109501. If you want to see one, go down to Walmart and look at a lawn boy rototiller they have in stock. It has the same tires on it. Petes Tire Barn in Springfield, MA quoted me 29 dollars apiece for these tires which included the state tax of about 5%.

    Bookmark   September 27, 2006 at 10:12PM
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Just a comment on the information on this thread about Troybilt rototiller manuals available on the MTD website. I have to say that they (MTD) do a rather good job of maintaining electronic (digital) copies, at no cost to anyone, of the manuals of the Older troybilt rototillers. I have downloaded a parts manual and a shop manual for my 1972 troy bilt Horse I at no cost at all. Now, they are under no obligation to maintain these manuals, but I am darned glad that they do. Other than that, I would be hunting on EBAY (for not small sums of money) for the technical information on these old tillers. The books are very complete, except for the engines, I guess Tecumseh, Briggs & Straton, Kohler and Clinton would be the source of information for that kind of information. Basic adjustments and technical specifications are readily available from the MTD digital copies of the Horse I technical and parts manual. It takes a bit of time for them to download, even on a broad band connection, because they have a lot of pictures which would make them very large files indeed. Do not discourage, though, check them (the manuals) out online. As a kind soul previously mentioned in this column, "Horse" and "I" are the two input values that will get you the Horse 1 and 2 manual files to download, or look at online. Happy hunting.
Regards, Pag

    Bookmark   September 29, 2006 at 11:44PM
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I have an 8 hp Horse Troy-Bilt tiller with the engine being a Kohler Magnmum. It is a pre-MTD Troy-Bilt machine.

Just a word about Troy-Bilt and MTD.

It is my understanding that MTD has done a very good job of continuing the Troy-Bilt tiller line, especially the Horse models. There is a guy over on yahoo where he has a group for Troy-Bilt tillers. His name is Bill Rogers and I think he runs a dealership for TB and Cub Cadet. He has a TON of experience working on these machines from way back. He and his group are also a good source for how to fix one of these machines.

In addition to my TB, I recently bought a Simplicity tiller for smaller chores.

Good luck,

    Bookmark   September 30, 2006 at 7:28PM
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I just scrounged up a Troybilt chipper/shredder with a broken engine (someone ran it out of oil and the connecting rod disconnected from the crank shaft). The whole unit looks rather fit and the 5HP Tecumseh should not be hard to replace. I find a lot of similar engines in the dump ("landfill" if you are a yuppie). Most of them have more abuse than use. This unit looks like it never got any special care. It is a Super Tomahawk Model 15012, I think it was made by troybilt, not MTD. MTD website has nothing on it. The shredder mechanism is in good shape. The body of the unit needs some tlc (Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, sanding and a coat of Rustoleum Red Paint). The engine makes a clanking sound, locks up sometime, sometime not. No compression sometimes. have to look further. Will scrounge a 5 hp Tecumseh from the dump with a 1 inch diameter output shaft on it. This shredder is belt driven via a 4 inch pulley on the motor shaft and one on the input shaft to the shredder mechanism. The pulley on the shredder has a chunk the size of a nickle missing from it. Never saw that before. A new pulley should not cost much. I have always wanted one of these (shredders). When I saw this one standing amongst the discarded refrigerators and washing machines, my eyes lit up like a kid on Christmas morning. It was heavy, but not too cumbersome to load on the truck by myself. It is made out of quarter inch steel. Nice and heavy, no sheet metal here. This will make trimming trees a lot easier. Can just dump the trimmings into the shredder and blow them around the base of the tree to keep the grass down. Happy Hunting Guys. Pag

    Bookmark   September 30, 2006 at 10:48PM
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Taking a lead from other contributors in this thread who put me on to this resource (digitally stored manuals for troybilt tillers at, I have found that by inputing "Horse" as the model and an asterisk (*) as the serial number, you get all of the troybilt rototiller manuals to choose from to download. Horse 1, 2, 3, 4 and other models too. Apparently an asterisk means "all" to their data base query. Happy hunting and enjoy your rototillers.


    Bookmark   October 7, 2006 at 9:15PM
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The tiller the orginal start of this thread ok. Your tiller is a horse II.Happy hunting thru the above web search at MTD. The manuals are there.

    Bookmark   October 28, 2006 at 9:59AM
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Hello all,

I am attempting to replace the wheel shaft seals on my old Troy-Bilt Horse that I bought new in 1980. Although I have been fairly careful in keeping the old horse clean and always store it indoors the rims are really stuck. I soaked the shaft 3 or 4 times during the last week with "Kroil" penetrating oil, drove out pins and the rim remained stuck. I heated the rim moderately with an oxy-aceteline welding torch, re-penetrated with Kroil and still no luck. I pulled one tire off the rim, heated the inner rim shaft quite a bit, to the point that the rim paint was smoldering on the entire inner side. I then put a large 3 armed puller on the outer rim and a brass center inside the outer axle hole and put enough "pulling" pressure on the rim to distort the outer side and still no sign of it breaking free. The only othr thing I can attempt is to drill three holes in the rim face and try a different puller on them.

Short of a hacksaw, any other ideas on how I can pull the rims, they are still salvageable and it seems difficult to buy just rims since I have just bought a pair of brand new Carlisle "super Lug" tires to replace the old originals.

If I have to cut the rims off, anyone know where I can buy just the rims??

Thanks in advance,

    Bookmark   November 29, 2006 at 10:31PM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

Kenny, My sympathies are offered freely. I pulled my wheel/tire assemblies some time back with the intent of possibly inserting tubes in them. (Neither one holds air for more than a few hours). At any rate, after I removed the lockbolt thru each axle sleeve, the wheel assemblies pulled off quite easily, and to my knowledge, they'd never been off since my Dad purchased it in the late 70's. It sounds like you've tried most everything possible, but I have maybe one additional suggestion. Reconnect the 3 jawed puller, and place it in tension again, not enough to bend anything but close. Then take a medium or large sized ball-peen hammer and tap very firmly on the wheel sleeve where it slides over the axle. If you have the tiller blocked up off the ground a bit, you should be able to rotate the axle while tapping around the sleeve in a radial fashion (not towards or away from the transmission gearbox, but as if you were driving the lockbolt back through the sleeve). I have found many times that the shock effect of a hammer blow from the side WHILE there is a pulling force, will loosen something that nothing else seems to budge. It's worth a try at any rate. I can't imagine why yours are so tight to begin with. Those wheels sleeves are not intended to be a "machine-press" fit. Mine actually wiggle on the axle the tiniest bit when they're installed. IF you ever get them off, run a ream of some sort thru the inside of the sleeves and polish them out a bit (an old brake cylinder hone works well). See if you can get them to the point that they'll slide off and on the axle with minimal effort. When you get it to that point, coat the axle and sleeve surfaces with anti-seize compound (or bearing grease) to prevent future corrosion/rust leading to the same problem.
Good Luck!

    Bookmark   November 29, 2006 at 11:14PM
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Hi Dave,

Thanks for your heart felt sympathies. Will try the suggested shock treatment approach today and concurrently put more heat on the rim. The axle seals were not leaking prior to my "overhaul" but now, with the heating, I'm sure they must be replaced. If that doesn't work, will drill holes thru the rim and rig up a puller that is tensioning closer to the axle center rather than to the outer rim edge. Sure want to keep as much of the old horse original as can be.

    Bookmark   November 30, 2006 at 9:23AM
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Kenny, I have heard of another method. Over at the troybilt tiller club website, yeah it really does exist, pretty informative at times also, a fellow with the same problem was instructed to remove the pins and then go till some ground. Of course the tiller would have to be operational to do this but it might work. REJ2.

    Bookmark   November 30, 2006 at 7:01PM
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Yippihiyokiyea, got the old rims off the tiller.

After exhausting nearly all possible tricks I've heard of and what mechanical wisdom I have absorbed from a lifetime of tinkering with machinery, a fresh idea came to me in a dream last night.

I stripped the tiller down to the transmission assenbly and the two, stubborn wheels. I then turned the assembly on its side, resting flat on one wheel and then built up blocks and two 4 foot 2x4's such that the tiller was now 2 or 3 inches off the ground resting on the underside of the other, upper wheel. I then got out my 8 pound sledge and a length of 7/8' round stock and beat the axle to pop it free of the rim. The transmission assembly slowly dropped until the axle was fully free of the rim. I cleaned up the axle and inner rim (did use a brake hone I had in the shop) and temporarily reattached the wheel on the axle, flipped the rascal over and did the same to the other side.

When I removed the two seals, I did find both of the lock rings on the wheel shaft, located under each seal and an outer .020 shim, were distorted and cupped out. I was able to flatten them out in my shop vise. Checked for lateral play and added another .020 shim to one side under the lock ring. Cleaned the shaft and made sure the area under the seals was not grooved or pitted. Remounted both rims using a liberal coating of anti-seize compound to shaft and inner bore of rim. Now, the wheel shaft seal replacement should be good for another quarter century or so. How many squaare miles of garden would that amount to??

Thanks to all you proud Troy-Bilt owners for the input.

    Bookmark   December 1, 2006 at 8:28PM
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hi i have a troy bilt tiller i bielve the horse (do not know for sure but it is very large)on the front it says troy bilt
TH-1002 i just really need to know how to adjust the belts

    Bookmark   December 16, 2006 at 2:51PM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

As the originator of this particular thread, I'm amazed at the amount of follow-ups it has generated :)
Brian, as best I've been able to determine, those TH-1002 numbers (and similar ones all over the unit) are simply casting numbers for individual parts as the pieces are being manufactured. Yours is possibly a Horse II as mine is. As best I can figure out, the belts are not designed to be tensioned in the fashion that you would on any other application. They are designed to be tight when the tiller is being driven forward, and they are slacked by the up-down shift of the frame when you drive in reverse (at which point the tiller is directly driven by the rubber pulley wheel). The belts are simply designed to be a specific length, and if yours become too loose to drive properly, they have become stretched or worn enough to no longer fit properly. New ones of the proper length should solve the problem. Does your tiller have a pair of belts or just one belt one the drive setup? I've seen a couple of different belt combinations and have been trying to determine what they all are. I think in some of the single belt configurations, you can actually select the drive ratio by slipping the belt from one set of pulleys to another, but I've not experimented with that yet. Anyone else feel free to offer assistance here as well... I'm never so certain of my knowledge that I claim omniscience :)

    Bookmark   December 16, 2006 at 4:33PM
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i thought when i got the new blelts (2) too answer your respone i went back to the shop and the guy thier showed me how to tighten them but i have been looking and i dont remember how to

    Bookmark   December 16, 2006 at 5:52PM
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hi again i wasa reading about a troy bilt club that had a website can anyone give me the address to that site i have searched on-line for it but have found nothing thank you

    Bookmark   December 16, 2006 at 6:16PM
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The following address should get you there. REJ2

    Bookmark   December 16, 2006 at 6:35PM
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thank you rej2 for the web site address now im looking at troy bill web site does anyone know the modle # Serial # to the horse 2 so i can look up thier thank you

    Bookmark   December 17, 2006 at 12:06PM
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I need a manual for a HH60. It is a 1974 Tech. Can anyone hrlp?

    Bookmark   January 1, 2007 at 11:56AM
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How the heck dose one tighten the belts on an old horse 79+ or-

    Bookmark   March 6, 2007 at 5:09PM
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Hello, yesterday at a yard sale I was fortunate to find an old Troy Bilt for a cheap price. I believe it to be a horse. It was pretty obvious that the machine had sat around for a long time, maybe years. I changed the black, sludgy oil, washed out the gas tank and filled it with fresh premium gas, replaced the plug and cleaned the air filter. I then sprayed some starting fluid into the air cleaner and the machine fired up beautifully on the first or second pull. I thought, boy, I'm in business.

But, then, the engine died. Again I sprayed in starting fluid and it fired up, but then died when it ran out of fluid. It sounded really good though, and smooth while running, and sped up when I opened the throttle. I don't know if this means it was getting some gas when I opened the throttle, but then ran out, or if opening the throttle fully just gave it more starting fluid. I don't really know what to do next. Maybe a more thorough cleaning or some carb work is in order. Seems like for some reason it's not getting any fuel. I checked the fuel line and inline filter below the tank, and the fuel is flowing freely to the carb.

Any ideas? Thanks.

    Bookmark   March 19, 2007 at 12:41AM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

adobero, Something to keep in mind when dealing with any type of gasoline engine is that automotive gasoline does not store well over long periods of time, (Read months at best). Simply flushing out the carb float bowl and airway passages does not necessarily remove all the sludge that gasoline turns into when it gets old. Over time, the lighter solvents evaporate and it leaves behind some pretty thick tars and solids that resist rinsing out by simply adding fresh fuel. Pull that carb and remove the float bowl at the very least. Obtain an aerosol can of carburetor cleaner from any automotive parts store and begin rinsing that solvent thru the interior of that carb body, preferrably using compressed air and a small brush to assist with the thicker gunk. Continue cleaning the interior passages until you get nothing but clean solvent from the carb body. That may do the job of opening up tiny air and fuel passages thru the carb body that have to be open to operate correctly. Remember, you're not as concerned with the visible surfaces of the carb interior and exterior, but with tiny orifices and passageways. A caution... carb cleaner is some pretty strong stuff. Use hand and eye protection when spraying and blowing out. If this doesn't complete the job to your satisfaction, it will require further disassembly and more thorough cleaning and possible replacement of gaskets, seals and sometimes diaphrams, possibly by a qualified service shop that deals with small engines.
IF, you feel comfortable doing a bit more disassembly of the carb and parts, remember to count the number of turns that you use to remove various jet screws and needles that may be present. There are a handful of screws that do nothing but hold the parts together, and then there are some jets/needles/screws that adjust the amount of fuel and air that moves thru the system, and those numbers of turns are critical to proper operation.

    Bookmark   March 20, 2007 at 2:40PM
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Thanks for the response, Dave.

Since my post I did pull off the bowl underneath and cleaned it out, and unscrewed that needle that goes up into the brass nut that holds the bowl on. I noticed that the little pinholes someone talked about on the brass nut were clogged so those are now open. I thought all that might help, but when I reassembled all that, suddenly the carb started leaking like a sieve. Ha ha.

Seems to go out into the air cleaner and quite a bit comes out from that little pinhole that is just above the bowl, and on the side of the carb which faces the operator when he/she is using the machine. Do you know which one I'm talking about? Comes out in quite a steady stream there. Wonder if I didn't get it back right. I'm thinking maybe the float isn't shutting off the supply properly now, for some new reason! I guess the next thing will be as you say, to pull off the whole thing and go thru it. I don't know much about those things, but will be careful to remember number of turns, which way things face, etc. Thanks so much.

    Bookmark   March 20, 2007 at 10:41PM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

Happy to help adobero... One of the biggest problems for any carburetor is for trash to get into the needle and or seat that is operated by the float. Either trash, or the seat seal material (usually rubber or some type of flexible plastic) cracks or is damaged in some fashion. It will more than likely never seal properly after that until it is replaced with a new seat or seal. Sometimes, if it simply a piece of trash and it's caught in time and cleared out... it will be ok afterwards. But if the trash stays in the seat for an extended time, it tends to form an indention that leaks as if it were cracked or torn.

    Bookmark   March 20, 2007 at 11:10PM
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Thanks for the info, Dave. I'll probably just keep plugging away at this thing over the coming weeks. I'm kind of afraid to pay someone to rebuild the carb, though it probably needs it, since I don't know the condition of the engine, transmission, etc. If those things were in good order, it would certainly be worth it.

    Bookmark   March 21, 2007 at 10:09AM
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I've got a Troy-Bilt Tuffy (Garden Way) model 12060 with a busted tine seal. I tried unsuccessfully to replace the seal by pressing it in from the outside. The replacement seal would not seat without deforming.

I picked up somewhere in a websearch that the new seal must be replaced by inserting it from the inside of the tine hub, so I guess that I need to disassemble the transmission and remove the shaft, then remove the tiller shaft assembly.

I pulled the parts list off the MTD site, but I can't figure out how to get the shaft out. The manuals for the Tuffy are not as thorough as the other Troy-Bilt manuals (boy, the ones for the Horse and Pony are good). Anyone have any guidance for me here?

    Bookmark   March 21, 2007 at 7:52PM
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To Adobero:

If you can verify that the rototiller runs as it should by turning the pulleys to verify that the tines move to demonstrate the transmission works as it should, then maybe you can put a few dollars into the machine to get it going. Check for transmission leaks and grease/oil level in the transmission (either 90 or 140 WT).

As for expenses, A NEW carburetor for a Horse 1 cost me 75 dollars last year from a Tecumseh dealer(some carburetors are rebuildable, others have shaft wear and leak air that does not allow them to idle properly or at all.. No fix for that except replacement.). New drive belts will cost about 35 dollars per set. If the engine needs more parts like points and condensor (and a fairly complex installation to time them properly) That will be 15 dollars plus the labor for the timing procedure (couple of hours labor). Then you do not know if the engine is in good shape, or not. Recently saw a replacement engine in COSTCO Warehouse club for 114 dollars with a 3/4 inch shaft that would fit a horse 1. The engine was overhead valve, 6 horsepower. It cost 114 dollars, yesss, 114 $. That would be the way to go if it were me. New engine, carburetor, guarantee. ........ Check shaft length, bolt hole pattern to make sure it will fit. Not to kid you, Mechanical aptitude and some small engine repair knowledge will be needed; plus a shop manual and a few tools will be a great help. The shop manual for the tiller is on the web At MTD's Troy Bilt website. It does not cover much about the engine and nothing about the carburetor. Tecumseh sells books for a few dollars that provide carburetor information.It seems like a lot to get an old machine going. .. and it is, but you can be assured that the second one will be a snap. ;) They are a good machine and almost worth the time to rehabilitate them. Just remember that when you look at old machines, Junk is Junk, Parts is Parts and Promise can still cost a few bucks. .. but in the end, it is all worth it. Just be realistic about what you have, what you want and if it is worth it to you personally.

Regards, Pag

    Bookmark   March 22, 2007 at 10:43PM
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Thanks for the info. The tines on this tiller do turn when I pull the starter pulley. So, at least that much works. And the machine wants to go forward also when in gear.

Is the Costco warehouse you talk about just one of the regular Costco's? We have one here in our area. I've never seen an engine like that in there, but then I've never looked for something like that!

Thanks much.

    Bookmark   March 24, 2007 at 11:21AM
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Message to Adobero

The Costco I went to was up In Massachussetts. Down where they had the pressure washers and tools, they have a yellow 6.5 HP gas engine made by Champion (Chinese Mfg.). It has a 3/4 inch shaft diameter and 2+ inch long shaft. It has a four bolt hole mounting pattern on the shaft side. I will measure it more closely when I get up there next time and include it in an email. The engine is gorgeous and might fit. I will compare it to a Tecumseh bolt pattern for size and spacing. My reference is a Horse 1, do not know what you have for a tiller. Good that things move when the engine is rope pulled. Try all gears and ranges if you can. Some of the different type of tillers have two speeds, some have two speeds and high and low ranges. I am sure that they also all have reverse by pulling up on the engagement lever and using the reverse disk on the pully mechanism.

I will try Costco online to see if they have this engine. Will include this in my next email to you when I send the bolt pattern information compared to a Tecumseh.

Enjoy your garden, Pag

    Bookmark   March 25, 2007 at 10:43PM
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Im trying to locate the serial number of my Tiller (Troy Bilt Pony with a 5hp Briggs & Straton). Here is a number I have located on the shaft of the tiller 8(might be a 2)0231776. I need to find a service manual to order some parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


    Bookmark   March 27, 2007 at 9:53PM
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Could use a little info. I purchased a tiller and it was stamped as a garden way. After checking the web, I think it is a troy-built. Built like a shermin tank.

It hasn' run for some tome but I think it will after some tender loving care.

Could someone tell me the year this machine was built.
It reads Garden Way, the s/n is 592123

The engine is stamped as HH60 105113H s/n 13490. It is a Tucumsa.

Also can anyone tell me the do's and don't's to be aware of?

Would appreciate the help.



    Bookmark   April 4, 2007 at 9:48PM
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Oilman07, according to the troybilt tiller club website, yeah there is such a place, Yahoo group, it was made in early 1982. Gardenway made troybilts until bankruptcy in 2001. Now owned by MTD. Join the club its free, get a owners manual, on ebay all the time especially around your year. Manual covers more than I could ever write. Plenty of do's and dont's. With written guidence I'm finding servicing and maintaining a Horse tiller isn't that hard. REJ2.

    Bookmark   April 4, 2007 at 11:42PM
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Thank you for your response. I thought it had some age on it but not that much, it must have been well kept to look this good for being 25 yrs old.

Thanks again


    Bookmark   April 5, 2007 at 6:40AM
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These old Gardenway Troy Bilts are built like tanks. (not like the current MTD "toys").

There aren't to many do's and don'ts. Just take good care of it and it will last several generations. If you have to change a tire don't beat on the wheel to remove it. That will likely damage the tranny. Make sure you use GL-4 or a good synthetic gear oil in the tranny. Sulfur based GL-5 will eventually dissolve some of the brass parts.

Keep fresh fuel in it and keep the oil changed. Once in a while totally clean the tine area and even pull off the tine holders and clean out any debris by the oil seals.

The Troy Bilt manuals are excellent. Get one.

    Bookmark   April 5, 2007 at 8:08PM
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Hello everyone! Thanks for all the great info about Horse tillers. A couple weekends ago I purchased a Troy-Bilt Horse from a post on craigslist. From the database info over on the Yahoo club, I found that it's a 1976 model, 7hp Kohler.

I have an owners manual coming that I purchased from eBay, but from info gleaned from here and from Yahoo, I've replaced the spark plug with a new E3 DiamondFire, and changed the gear oil with fresh new 140wt GL-4. The old gear oil was absolutely black, and with the new spark plug, it fires up each time on the second pull.

There are still a few small things wrong with it. It has a small oil leak on the engine, so I'm assuming I'll need to replace a gasket or two, and the belts are slipping when the tines encounter moderate resistance when tilling, so I'll need new belts as soon as I figure out how to replace them (when the manual arrives).

My plan is to refurbish the unit as much as possible. I want to pull the wheels, and re-paint the entire unit so it looks brand new again. I'm hoping that I don't encounter as much trouble with pulling the wheels as some of you seem to have had. I'm also hoping to get many more years of service out of this unit.

Any tips, tricks, or advice you could offer would be most appreciated! Thanks!

    Bookmark   April 9, 2007 at 4:06PM
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On mine, (ie single belt 1980 model), you can adjust belt tension by adjusting the cast iron piece that the F/R lever's wheel rides up and down on.

    Bookmark   April 9, 2007 at 6:09PM
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Anyone stil using this thread? More so..Dave Danger still here? I am just begining a restoration to a troybilt tiller I was given. I know nothing about it but that it is from the 70's.. posssible 74..and this is based on what I was told by the previous owner. So here I am doing my research to find out what I got my self into. All I do have so far is a number from the engine tin. HH50-105115H SER 2082D this could be an HH60...hard to read the tin..used a wire wheel on my grinder to clear rust and paint. I would like to know where to look for key numbers.any help? Any one decode the number I got? The story goes....It runs or ran last season..forgot to drain fuel..went to start and it locked up...thats what i was told so it was given to me for i took it and started looking..(I've gotten more good deals this way.)It didnt lock up...the pull rope freyed and bound up...pulled the plug and smelled gas..turned the motor over by hand move smooth as can be...yea its not locked up. so.. i do know I want to redo the carb for the sake of piece of mind... and I need a pull rope.. I am also looking for paint.. was orange.. I believe its original to Tecumseh..could be wrong..would like to restore...then sell...ANy ideas? ok..enough for now..oh yeah..anyone got pics of restored ones?

    Bookmark   April 16, 2007 at 4:19AM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

TruckCentral, we're all still here and kick'n :)
The HH50 number you're seeing on the side of the engine shroud is probably an HH60. That stands for Horizontal Shaft, Heavy Duty, 6.0 Horsepower. The numbers immediately after the HH50 or 60 tell some specifics about the engine installation. It's kind of like a VIN # on a car. Each numbers stands for a specific item... one of them would tell if the engine had an electric or pull starter, one would indicate points or electronic ignition, one would indicate the exact carb used, etc. The last number (after the SER) is the engine serial number.
I don't know that I've seen an HH50, but possibly there is one. Troybilt did seem to use a variety of engines when they were building these things. Mine is a Tecumseh HH60 engine. There are a lot of THXXXXX numbers all over these older tillers, and my suspicion is that those are specific casting numbers for the individual parts they're stamped or cast into. The actual serial number on mine is on the righthand side of the transmission from the operators position. There is a small flat machined area on the side of one of the castings of the tranny housing. In my case it's a 6-digit number.
I'll look and see if I can remember where the actual "vin#" sequence listing is located and send that to you. I found it online or read it somewhere.
At the very minimum, get that fuel tank drained and flushed out, and try and flush the carb out as well. The possibility is you'll end up putting a carb rebuild kit in it sooner or later, but just to help you know you're not wasting time, clean it thoroughly and see if you can get it to start or at least sputter with some fresh fuel.
More info as I have time :)


    Bookmark   April 16, 2007 at 11:28AM
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Awsome. I love getting into a project like this and have someone to bounce ideas off of. I have started so many and had friends loose interest and then there goes my interest. Not that I am gonna bug you alot but knowing you have one too helps. You know what I mean? I started reading and almost got disheartened when I realized the date on the begining.. So my next question.. Do you have any pics of yours completed? And I invite the others to drop notes too.. I am fairly mechanicly adept so most all the work Ill do.. I dont know if you use yours or if it was just a restoration but I plan to get it running and use mine for two yards then Ill clean it up again and probably sell mine. But I picture it alot like the old restored tractors..I may be wishfull thinkin..But anyway.

Any way I will look the tranny over tonight when I get home and look for what I can. Was yours orange? Ill start to post some pics on my website and put a link up soon. So we can compare notes.

    Bookmark   April 16, 2007 at 10:48PM
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Same problem. An Ecno Horse bought in 1988. The rear drive belt (there are two) broke and we can not find a model or s/n on the tiller anywhere. No numbers - no belt. The belt length is 23.5 ". All numbers cast on both sides of the tranny case mean nothing to MTD folks. Unit has two drive belts no rev disc.
Any ideas welcomed.

    Bookmark   April 17, 2007 at 1:19PM
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studio157(6 NW Indiana)

Here is a link for the tiller manuals. They are available as free PDF's at the Troy site. Also see the link button.

Under model enter Horse and for the serial enter 1.

I'll also add a follow up for the Kohler engines. Hope this is of help.

Happy tilling,

    Bookmark   April 17, 2007 at 6:21PM
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studio157(6 NW Indiana)

Here is a link for the engine manuals. They are available as free PDF's at the Kohler site. Also see the link button.

Click enter as guest and there ya go...

Happy engine repair,

    Bookmark   April 17, 2007 at 6:28PM
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Since this thread is still active I guess I'll throw my ques. in. I've got a 80ish. horse, Kohler 8hp with a Walbro carb (WHL 07 2178). Anyone know where to obtain carb kit or what a replacement carb. num might be.

Also, the Kohlerplus site wont let me in since I'm running Firefox for a browser. Bummer. I guess I'll load up MS explorer later unless someone has a better idea.



    Bookmark   April 18, 2007 at 2:23PM
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studio157(6 NW Indiana)

What is the model and serial of the engine?


    Bookmark   April 18, 2007 at 5:05PM
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The only thing I have for the model is M8T (Magnum 8 hp), but the s.n. is 1822604302, with a SPEC num of 301548. The engine still runs strong but I'd really like a shop manual for it. It's old but keeps going. The carb is sound but I'd like to replace the jets and the gaskets or at least know what a replacement carb num would be.

If you can help, thanks,

When I first started to revive this machine (many yrs. ago) I hooked up with a place called Kelley's Lawn and Garden. They seems to be the experts and have everything for these "ole iron" machines. I can't find them now. They were in Shelbyvville In. (317-398) Ever hear of them or do business with them?


    Bookmark   April 18, 2007 at 7:45PM
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studio157(6 NW Indiana)


Just downloaded both the owners and service manual for this engine. I have Adobe so I can break them into smaller PDF's as well. If you wish I could e-mail them to you. My direct mail is


    Bookmark   April 19, 2007 at 5:33PM
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Before this thread closes, the carb should be readily available. I do not know what part of In. you are in,
but I am in Louisville. Call me at the Mower Shop, and we can set you up. Just ask for Fish (John).

    Bookmark   April 19, 2007 at 8:55PM
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I just sent you an e-mail.


    Bookmark   April 20, 2007 at 9:10AM
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Oops, I thought there was an e-mail id in your post. Guess it's my advanced age. Need your num. to the shop or e-mail.

Thanks in advance,


    Bookmark   April 20, 2007 at 10:32AM
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Thought I would also ask this question, does anyone here have or know anyone that deals in used parts for these tillers. Not soft parts (seals are easy) but the castings, etc....? (the big one is the casting that mounts to the motor) I know I can get some of these from MTD, but Im on a budget.

    Bookmark   April 20, 2007 at 5:26PM
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for the ones that are having problems finding a maunal for an older troybilt tiller, this is what i found out.

first go to
click on support.
click on view owner's manuals.

our tiller is a 5hp, briggs and stratton motor that is probably 30 years old.

for model number i put pony.
for serial number i put P26171 (this number is on the transmission stamped in the metal of our tiller body. had to get a wet cloth to find it.) there are other manuals listed there.

once in there, go to engine controls and operation. there is picture of where your numbers are for getting parts. ours is on the white crank case that reads crank case oil instructions. running vertically, on the left side, are numbers stamped into the case. you may need to use a piece of paper and a pencil to see the numbers. our numbers were 130292 014102 7201247.

hope i helped someone. also, the part store said if the tiller runs when you put gas in the carb then dies there is probably a hole in the diaphragm seal.

    Bookmark   April 23, 2007 at 7:52PM
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Fish (John) or others,

I need a couple of parts for my Horse 1 (built in '73) and, hopefully an answer to an engine question. It is electric start/recoil as back-up.
Can you help?
I work out-of-town during the week and am getting to the repairs in my spare weekend time.

1. A reverse disc (the existing is fiber). However, my local parts store wants $52. Is that typical? Seems like it should be 1/4 of that.
2. The two drive belts. Can these be a simple Goodyear, etc. belt as long as they match in length/width/depth (I bought 2 with the inside ribbed)?
3. Need to replace the old (original?) diamond pattern tires with lugged tires (Carlisle Super Lugs for $26 each + shipping = $80 or so). Local tire store wants $52 each.

6Hp Tecumseh, Model HH60-105107F
Ran rough, low power during tilling.
What I did:
Emptied gas tank, refilled with new gas. Still ran rough.
Checked compression, seemed a bit low (don't remember psi now), replaced points/condenser, spark plug, head gasket and, rebuilt carb.
The compression was up a bit, but not where it should be, still runs rough, still low power while tilling, have to start it with starter fluid then it pulls fuel OK. Belches a little blue smoke at start-up (rings or valve guides), bogs and belches a combo of a little bit of blue smoke/dark smoke (rings and/or valves, running a little rich) while tilling.

If a rebuild is required, and my sons/daughters and I do it ourselves (I have the knowledge), what is the cost of a rebuild vs. buying a new engine? I have seen prices for new engines anywhere from $200-$450. I would like to keep my electic start, but keep the price reasonable.

I am using an old '78 Sears rear tine tiller for now, which works great, but want Old Red back!!

Thanks so much for your help.

    Bookmark   April 25, 2007 at 12:29AM
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I'm looking at buying a Troy-Bilt Horse that appears to have been originally bought in 1981. It has the 8HP Briggs and Stratton engine and what appears to be the serial number 62996 stamped onto it (the first number is offset from the rest and VERY hard to read). Unfortunately, I didn't know where to check for the engine model until tonight (and I looked at it last night...40 miles away).

Anyway, I'm guessing from the Troy-Bilt site, that it's a 195432 model engine (probably with an HH80 in front). I'm waiting to get confirmation from the seller.

What I really would like to know is how much a carb kit goes for one of these units. I can't image that it's that much, but I've been surprised before. *lol*

If someone can get back to me on what I should expect to pay (and if you sell them and have low and fast shipping, let me know your cost), that would be great.



    Bookmark   May 2, 2007 at 11:16PM
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I'm in the process of refurbishing my 1979 4 speed 6 HP Horse that has seen little use for several years, prior to putting it up for sale. Ive been reluctant to part with this since I am the only owner it has ever had and it has given me many years of excellent service but it is overkill by several orders of magnitude for the tilling I need to do these days. I would like to make sure that it is in prime working order for whoever buys it from me.

After doing some minor welding to repair the depth adjustment lever and hood, replacing one of the bar tires I moved it out of the shed where it has been stored for the last year and a half. At first I would not start at all but then after replacing the stale gas and cleaning the carburetor I was able to get it to sputter and run unevenly.

It is equipped with the Tecumseh HH60 engine and I suspect Im looking at a carburetor rebuild project. Ive run two cans of carb cleaner through it, removed the throttle adjust screen and bowl nut flushing it thoroughly through that hole in the bottom of the bowl. I can now start it but I have to baby the power adjust screw and choke to keep it running and it does not have any power.

When cleaning it I did not remove the bowl to check the float partly because I was unsure of how it was attached. If I understand what has been described in some of the previous postings, removing the adjusting screw and bowl nut should enable it simply to "drop" off with perhaps some encouragement from a rubble mallet. Is there anything else that attaches the bowl to the carburetor body once the adjusting screw and nut are removed?

    Bookmark   May 3, 2007 at 4:25AM
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I have a troy built tiller, I think it is late 70's early 80's. it has turf tires, no other markings.
I broke the cast motor mount, it is stamped " TH 1002" the local dealer says he cant find such a part. Any ideas?

    Bookmark   May 21, 2007 at 9:39AM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

Bobby, That TH1002 number is an original casting part number and meant something only to the folks at the assembly plant. It is not a useful number for ordering replacement parts. If you will look on the righ hand side of the tranny (from the handlebars, looking towards the front) there should be a small machined flat surface along an upper parting surface of the transmission housing. There should be a serial number stamped there. That number will help a little towards identifying your model year and such.
MTD has bought out the rights and responsibilities of the Troybilt tiller line and they have a fairly decent website that you can navigate around and find parts and service manuals, and replacement parts as well. Read through this particular post from top to bottom (I know there's a lot there!) and several folks mention the steps to take on the MTD website, to find the info necessary for your model.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2007 at 2:52PM
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johnnytugs1(Jackson, N.J.)

i found this in another post. hope it helps and not to late. they have the 6 hp B& S Intec direct replacement engine for the Horse tiller. Current price is $199.00 and that includes the shipping!

    Bookmark   May 25, 2007 at 3:19AM
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I just got an older Troy-bilt Horse 1 with a Tecumseh 6 HP motor on it. Don't know how old yet, can't find the right numbers on the block. It runs, but roughly. Probably carbeurator and ?. Looking for a place to download the owners manual/repair manual. Any ideas anyone?

Numbers on the motor case are: hh60-105103F Ser 6358D.

    Bookmark   May 30, 2007 at 6:26PM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

horseluva, that HH60 number indicates that the engine is a Tecumseh Heavy Duty Horizontal crankshaft 6.0 HP engine. The number immediately following is a spec number that details specifics of accessories that may or may not be installed on that engine as it is installed on a specific piece of equipment.
If you'll look on the Rh side of the tiller (from the handlebars) you'll see a flat machined boss protruding out from the upper surface of the transmission, about even with the control lever (centered directly over the axle shaft). There will be a serial number stamped there that will help you determine the model of your machine. Go to the MTD website and locate the parts and service manuals. If it will help, I can send a photo of exactly where the serial number is located on mine.
I just 2 days ago found a website where I ordered a brand new carburetor, original equipment designed for the HH60-105106F engine supplied on my Horse II Tiller. $59.99. I've rebuilt my original carb twice already and have had limited luck with it holding fuel without simply seeping thru the pores of the old aluminum body. Well worth the money I feel.

    Bookmark   May 30, 2007 at 11:30PM
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Thanks for your info, Dave_Danger. I'll check that source for the carb. It sounds like a much better price than I've seen other people spend, which is more in the $75-85 range.

I'd still like to find a (free) source to get the manual for my Tecumseh engine. I already got the owners manual and a parts manual downloaded from, which is really helpful. That's a great resource.

I'll look again for the serial number on my Horse. I'm pretty sure it's a Horse 1, by comparing my machine to info and pictures I got from the manual at My machine is being kept at my step sons house, about 20 minutes away, which is where we are gardening. He has five acres, we have 1/10 acre here in the city. He has an immense need for it there. It's a former nursery. So, I'll look more closely in the location on the machine you suggest to find the numbers. So far I'm just cleaning off a lot of thick dirt and grim. I was looking for numbers as I cleaned, but didn't see anything in that area. I'll have to look again next time I'm over there, perhaps this weekend.

There is an oil leak up front somewhere, leaking pretty hard. It's hard to tell yet exactly what is leaking. I'll need to fix that before we do any serious tilling. Also, I need to adjust the belts, I think. It looks like the previous owner put new belts on it, but they are still way too loose. Perhaps he didn't use the right belts, I don't know yet. If he put belts on it that came from just anywhere they may not be exactly the right ones. Is it recommended you purchase belts made expressly for the Horse?

Looking forward to getting this baby into the dirt for some serious tilling soon.

    Bookmark   May 31, 2007 at 8:22AM
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I need a parts manual for a mid 1980's 6hp PTO horse. The model number is TH1003BF and the serial number is 698-099 and all I get at troy-Bilt's site when I enter those numbers is that "The format of the serial number was unknown and was not factored into the search." I have PART of the owner's manual and the inside cover shows ther the model and serial numbers are found and I have entered the correct numbers into their site. I am need ing the brass gear in the tiller attachment that runs on the worm gear.

Thanks for any help.

    Bookmark   June 21, 2007 at 8:23PM
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just bought an early troy tiller 7hp kohler, horse, i guess. the gear shift seems to be stuck in reverse. i can hand turn the tines backwards but not forward. also the kohler doesn't seem to be getting a spark even though it was recently tuned up w/ new plug, etc. and when i turn on the gas cock it flows on thru the carb to the floor. i would appreciate any help or ideas on how to proceed. thanks very much.

    Bookmark   July 9, 2007 at 7:24PM
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Great information in this thread. I am the original owner of a ~78 Troybilt Horse with the HH60 #105115H It has been a wonderful machine over the years but now I have a problem and maybe the knowledgeable people on this site can help me. Heres the problem the bracket that holds the ignition parts inside the flywheel came loose and got caught on one of the magnets in the flywheel. It shredded every thing including a portion of one of the 2 magnets. Good news the ignition parts are available but I was told the flywheel is not. I hate to trash the motor over this. Any and all suggestions appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    Bookmark   July 10, 2007 at 3:32PM
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I also have heard the flywheel is not available new. Have seen several listed on e-bay though. REJ2.

    Bookmark   July 11, 2007 at 8:01AM
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I own a TroyBilt tiller 7hp Kohler probably made in the 80"s. What would be a reasonable price to ask for it? It runs great and I have never had any problems since it was given to me by my father in the early 90's. thanks.

    Bookmark   July 18, 2007 at 10:13PM
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Fish (or others),

I also am looking for help with an old Walbro carburetor: WHL 07 2109. The Walbro web site does not list it and also states that it does not support model WHL 08. The carb is on a Kohler K161 (7 hp), which is on my old Horse. Symptom: gas leaking from the air filter.

I just finished tilling 12 yards of mulch into the clay "soil" in my back yard, so I guess the Horse deserves a rest and some TLC.

Thanks much for any help with parts or advice.


    Bookmark   August 28, 2007 at 9:55PM
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Just got a '77 Horse. It has a Kohler 8hp motor on it (not the original). After using the tiller for about ten minutes, gas started spurting out of the hole in the gas cap. Seems like pressure is building in the gas tank.

Any ideas as to the cause of the problem would be greatly appreciated.

    Bookmark   August 30, 2007 at 12:16PM
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I live in the Washington, DC area and bought a similar Horse this spring via Craigslist for $500. It runs well but requires a fair amount of maintenance -- I've worked it pretty hard.

Hope this helps.


    Bookmark   September 3, 2007 at 5:25PM
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Hi I inherited my dad's tiller and am in the process of getting it started. The last time he used it was a couple of years ago and he has passed away now. So, I'm trying to figure out how to get it running again. It was a bear to crank but ran good once started.
It is a Gardenway TH-1019 with these other numbers, 6.5 OHV, Briggs and Stratton, Intek IC 206. I can't find the serial number where its supposed to be located.
I know it needs a spark plug, anybody know which one is needed and possibly a serial number for this thing? Thanks.

    Bookmark   October 11, 2007 at 5:48PM
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I recently purchased an old Horse and am trying to resurrect it from the dead. Among other things, the carburetor has a broken ear where it bolts up to the head. If I get this welded, does anyone out there think I can rebuild the carb back to a functioning state. This thing has the Kohler K161 7HP engine on it. Not sure where to even look for a rebuild kit but from what I've read here, they are available. I would like to try to salvage this engine as I think it is the original that came with the tiller.

    Bookmark   October 16, 2007 at 6:25PM
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I inherited a Pony last year that was made around 1978. No owners manual or experience with the beast. I've used rear tine tillers for years, but have been a source of entertainment for my wife as she watches me chasing after the pony around the garden.
Now I'm not a stupid man, but this thing is making me feel that way. Tried "resisting" the runaway pony, and just get my heels dragged. Have tried pushing down, but the engine just dies.
Expecting loads of gunk in the carb, I went ahead and rebuilt the carb recently hoping that would help the problem with the engine dieing. Engine runs much better, but still seems to die easier after getting hot.
So, two problems. The first is tips on technique for using the tiller. I've seen the "walk beside this tiller" commercial and long for this to be true. Hopefully, this won't require years of struggle until I finally get this soil worked into coffee ground-like texture... The Pony seems to work fine in soil that is soft, but the garden is only two years old and though I used a commercial grade unit to start, the soil still compacts hard between spring and fall tills. Anyway, good coaching would be appreciated.
Two, the gets hot issue. Found tips on-oine on how to adjust the carb after rebuilding. 1.5 turns open on the new needle valve. (Yes, this is the old diaphram carb on a B&S engine.) All new parts in the carb, clean ports that I blew compressed air through. Intake into the head had rust in it, cleaned all that out as well. Don't see too much else to adjust as the carb is pretty simple. However, not only is my wife quite entertained by my chasing antics, she has noticed that my right shoulder has gotten quite larger from all the re-starts on the manual pull. Folks in the adjoining park are baffled by the 30 seconds of engine run time followed by a loud expletive - all repeated quite often.
Just about to buck the "love my Troy-Bilt" trend and opt out for an old front-tined tiller. At least I know how to wrestle one of those and I've never had these types of small engine problems...
Appreciate the help folks.


    Bookmark   October 21, 2007 at 4:16AM
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dave_danger(West Central Ga)

Welcome Fred,
My "Horse" model does a beautiful job of tilling Old Georgia Red Clay to "coffee ground" consistency, but there's one thing I've noticed about these rear tine tillers... it's the tires being transmission driven that resists the tiller lunging forward while you try to use it. I've never used a "Pony" so I don't know how it sits weight wise, my Horse has plenty of weight to keep the tires planted. You may possibly need to add a little weight to help it do its job. A few suggestions I can think of:
The adjustment screw(s) on the carb need to be fine tuned to make that engine produce power properly... Not knowing exactly which carb you have, I can only suggest that any screws available (fuel and air) need to be adjusted beyond the "factory settings" that you get from the manuals. They usually give you a specific number of turns to set the screws and that will probably get you started, but after you're up and running, you'll need to veeeeeery slowly lean the fuel adjustment (turn as if closing) until the engine seems to make peak power and rpm. If you have an air adjustment, do the same with it after the fuel is set. You may have to fiddle with both adjustments several times as changes to one screw affects the other slightly. What you ideally want to reach is the leanest fuel and air mixture that makes power and rpm. If you lean either setting too much, you'll notice it immediately. Back it up a bit and re-adjust.
As far as actual tilling, it is sometimes necessary to set the tine depth very shallow and run over the soil breaking it up in layers. Simply setting the desired depth you want to finish with is probably too much load on the engine, regardless of how well it's running.
Something I learned with the hard clay type soil I deal with, and it sounds like you have something similar... it hardens very solidly between seasons. I always have something on hand to till into the clay when I go thru it, whether its plain old sand, loam, manure, grass clippings, compost, or any type of organic that helps thin the clay particles. It takes a while, but it eventually becomes mixed enough with the organics that it no longer turns to concrete between seasons.

    Bookmark   October 21, 2007 at 5:58PM
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Thanks much for the reply. My Pony is one of the older models with the diaphram carb - and has only a single setting with the needle valve. I've taken it slightly off the factory suggested setting of 1.5 turns and tried to lean it, but that was as good as I was able to do.
I think you hit the nail on the head though. I just need to not be so aggressive on the depth setting and take more passes.
When the tiller works, the soil is broken up better than I have ever seen with a front-tine tiller. I'll just have to keep trying things or simply give in and buy a pair of track shoes. After all, having my wife entertained this way is much cheaper than many of the alternatives!
Take care,

    Bookmark   November 4, 2007 at 11:51PM
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Hey all, I am looking at purchasing an old horse model supposedly built in the 70's. It has a 6 h.p. Tecumseh engine and right now that's about all I know about it. It's advertised for $275 and it looks rough from the picture - mainly just dirty. The owner says it starts easily and "gets the job done"... I am very mechanically inclined and have resurrected many gasoline powered tools. Is this a good deal even if I have to replace the tines and eventually the engine? Is there any particular year or model to steer clear of? When I was a young lad, my grandfather had a horse that he had bought brand new. I remember helping him put it together. He used that thing for 25 years - HARD, and it never gave up on him. The electric start kicked the bucket early on but, the engine was strong for a long time. Towards the end I think the engine gave out but, I think the tiller itself was still strong as ever. Any advice for me?

    Bookmark   November 8, 2007 at 11:24AM
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gator_rider2(z8 Ga.)

I bound 2 in june one for 175 other 180 the 180 I am rering it oil useage both ran good all seals went out wheels and tong shaft bearing were tight had order 4 tong seal at close out western auto store is call auto store now. The 6 hp engine parts were in at another store same type ring head gasket side cover and seal oil useage cause by there not being spring under oil wiper std size no wear on cylinder it is 1979 model troy horse 4 speed other 2 speed. I'm trying to buy Big Red troy bilt from up road may never happen. I found both these horses to need air filters and oil changes transmisson as well 140 wt for them. I load tires with slime stop some leaks. Will add vent to transmissions this winter I think need that.

    Bookmark   November 11, 2007 at 11:52PM
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I just bought an older Horse model on Craigslist in Rochester, NY for $165, the owner said his grandfather picked it up at the Troy factory in the mid 70s. Carb was gummed up so I got the tiller very cheaply, but got it running in about an hour with a little help from some carb cleaner.

The drive belts are slipping now, does anyone have the specs on the belts. There is a good online belt dealer that will ship them if I have the spec: my father in-law used them for some odd belts for a drill press, fast delivery and very reasonable.

Also, the tiller needs new tines, anyone have any suggestions for sources other then eBay? I'd also like to know if anyone has had any success using the hiller/furrower?

    Bookmark   November 16, 2007 at 5:39PM
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rebuilding 79 horse 8hp b&s looking for decal on tine hood any help thanks

    Bookmark   January 18, 2008 at 9:49AM
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Well my Troy Bilt Horse tiller is up and running. Because the gas bowl float was wearing out and dumping gas slowly into the cylinder over time, it deposited alot of carbon on the cylinder head. I scraped it with a piece of wood and cleaned the valve head were exposed.I reassembled it after buying a new float for $8.00 and checked compression with my old compression gauge from the past,
I also changed the coil ,points gapped .20, oil and transmission fluid 85-140 bought at Auto spark plug gap.30. The tranny fluid was milky colored so it appears that if it was left outdoors in the rain , the water finds its way into the tranny case through the T handle at the base of the steering handle.
One big question What year was it manufactured, I have searched everywhere to no avail. Here is the #'s

Tecumseh engine -HH60-105090E
roy bilt horse-Transmission Block stamped-136457

The previous owner said it is about 20 years old, built in Troy NY.
I am looking for an exact year of production.
Any help will greatly be appreciated so I could put this mysery to sleep.

    Bookmark   May 4, 2008 at 6:48PM
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ajp0007, your tiller was made in the first half of 1975 according to the serial # stamped on the transmission. Info obtained at the troy bilt tiller club website. The engine serial # 5009D indicates a year ending in 5, 1975, or 1985. Since the HH60 was discontinued in 1994 and if the motor is original, it also is probably a 1975. REJ2

    Bookmark   May 4, 2008 at 10:32PM
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I'm not going to be any help to you . I am like a lot of others just like you . I need help also. Maybe someone will be kind enough to help me . I have a real old Garden-Way The #'s I have TH-1019 It has a 7h.p. Kohler cast iron engine . Spec.281293 Model # K161T Serial # 12066734 I can't find a bit of Infrmation on this machine please someone help . Thanks a bunch......

    Bookmark   May 7, 2008 at 3:05AM
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Hello all,
I'm new here and have recent experience with my new/old horse. After struggling to find the "sweet spot" between belt slippage and self-disengagement, I finally found remedy in a multifaceted approach. (I like to get all the odds in my favor)
If you find more than about 1/16" of "slop", you'll need to drill, bush, and lube the four pivots which articulate the detente wheel, "tightening up" the action. Then rough-up the pulleys, replace the spring, (it's strength plays a major role) and adjust the detente block as low as it can be engaged so the belt will run tight.
If you do these things, occasionally dress the belt, and adjust the detente block as needed, you'll have no more "popping out", slipping, or belt-suicide.
I would also recommend welding a 3/8" rod, 12" to 14" long; one end to the top/back of the spring plate and the other (slightly bent) to the clutch lever about mid span. This will stiffen the lever and make engagement a "snap".

many blessings, -- Charlie

    Bookmark   June 4, 2008 at 4:25PM
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I have a troy bilt horse ser/394300 and would like to
know the year made. Also, need a replacement engine
had a tucumsi originally. recomendations on what
would be the best engine for replacement?


    Bookmark   June 8, 2008 at 11:17PM
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* FOR SALE * Old Tecumseh HH60 Engine * FOR SALE *

Recoil start Tecumseh HH60 Engine, from 70's for sale. Last run in 2007. Complete w/ fuel tank, air cleaner, carburetor etc. Please email me directly for additional information.

    Bookmark   June 9, 2008 at 9:30AM
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Wow, this thread just keeps going, and going...........


    Bookmark   June 9, 2008 at 5:20PM
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Tallent 1 your Horse was made in the first half of 1979. Info obtained from the troy bilt tiller club site on yay-hoo groups. REJ2.

    Bookmark   June 9, 2008 at 10:41PM
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thanks REJ2. will look at the site.

    Bookmark   June 9, 2008 at 11:03PM
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Hello, new to this forum, glad to be here. I have a 1977 year of mfg Horse Tiller with 7 HP Kohler. I broke off the carburetor accidentally. The raised numbers on the carb read C-234252. I have looked until going blind, I cannot find that number carb mentioned on the web. Parts has my engine model==K161T and the spec # 281271 showing for a carb, but telling me that it replaces some other number that is close to my carb # but not exact. Looks like the right carb when I compare, but 200.00 plus shipping slows me a little unless I know for sure. Anyone know of a source perhaps a little less money for one of these? Thanks---Bruce

    Bookmark   June 14, 2008 at 10:39PM
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Hi, I am new to this forum as of about 5 minutes ago, but had read a lot of it before registering, and it looks to be a great group.

First: How odd this one about the broken off carburetor on a Troy-Bilt, as that is how I acquired mine. (2 days ago) Its carb had been snapped off, and the then owner could not get another, so he sold it to me. Having done some magic with JB-Weld before, I used it with the carb I had on my Tecumseh tiller engine, and got it back together, and working great!

For about 3 minutes! :-(

That brings us to Second: My carb repair seems to be holding up just fine. Its just that no spark is being generated is what the problem is now. I have tried different plugs, and using both the manual and electric start with the plug out and grounded against clean shiny steel, and still zero spark. I removed the fuse and diodes and cleaned their contacts and replaced them after testing them, but still no spark. Wire looks OK, but its original I would bet, and I can only see the outside portion. Shut off switch is working correctly, so that is not the prob.

So, aside from pulling the engine apart to see if there is something wrong with the magneto, is there anything else I should look for? What could croak in the ignition after only a couple minutes of running fine?

(If you would like to know how I repaired the carb with the JB weld, let me know, and I will tell you. I once put an International A tractor block back together with the stuff when I could not find a replacement, and 15 years later, it was still running just fine, with no leaks. )

Finally, how do I tell what model tiller I have? I can find no ID plates on the unit aside from the engine, which is a 6HP Tecumseh HH60. No other ID info aside from casting numbers on it, and direction stickers for the levers. Any source of manuals online for the older models? I sure I will have other questions, but I am still a newby with this little darlin'!

Thanks. I have LOTS of reading to do on this group, and about Troy-Bilt tillers.

Best regards!!! Smoky

    Bookmark   June 21, 2008 at 9:12PM
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You may have a bad coil. The diodes and the fuse (on the side of your engine, yes?) Are not part of the ignition circuit. You have an electric start tiller with an alternator under the flywheel and a charging circuit.
Often when the a bad coil warms up it will quit on you. It could also possible be a problem with the points.

    Bookmark   June 22, 2008 at 9:19PM
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Hi all,
I need some help changing the axle seals on an older troy-bilt tiller serial #23-6244, the engine is an hh60 105101f. I got the wheels off, they were well lubricated from the leaking seals, but I'm not sure how best to get the seals out. There appears to be what I think is a dust cap in there first and with a light I think I can see the seal behind it. How do I get that cap out without ruining it. There's only about a 1/16" clearance in the hole thru the cap and the axle that goes thru it. The cap is flush with the case. I don't even think a small blind hole bearing puller would even fit, besides I don't have one. Sure I can try to pry that cap out but I seriously doudt that it will be reuseable let alone recogniseable. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!!!

    Bookmark   June 25, 2008 at 7:23PM
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I've had ignition problems with my 7HP Kohler Horse model in the past. The problem was a bad condensor when I used the original mechanical points ignition system.

I decided to convert it to electronic and Kohler offered a retrofit kit. Maybe you can do the same with your 6 HP Tecumseh.

I would urge all Horse owners to go electronic ignition if they can. Mine never takes more then 1-2 pulls to start even after sitting for motnhs.

    Bookmark   June 26, 2008 at 10:44AM
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Hi again,
Nevermind, goter done. What I thought was a dust shield was indeed the axel seal itself. The new ones are rubber or something as the old but the old had a tin wrapper.
I just pryed them out and as I had said if it was a dust shield I'd be buying new ones.

    Bookmark   June 26, 2008 at 1:37PM
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I could still use help with model and year id. I tryed the but all I get is (the format of the serial # is unknown). My engine is the cast iron block hh-60 105101f ser-6140c. The machine has the serial #23 6244
stamped on the flat in the appropriate location. Also were can I find the front and rear seals? Thanks!!!

    Bookmark   June 26, 2008 at 7:13PM
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Don't put in as much info in the parts search field.
Also try no spaces or dashes.

    Bookmark   June 27, 2008 at 10:50PM
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Mrnevermiss, your tiller was made in the second half of 1976, Horse I or Horse II is your model, most likely a Horse I. Info obtained at the troy bilt tiller club on yay-hoo groups. REJ2.

    Bookmark   June 29, 2008 at 8:14AM
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I have a 1983 Pony Tiller that has an oil leak around the wheel shaft. I have removed the pins and "C" clips from the shaft and can get the left wheel off but not the right. I've soaked it in penetrating oil and will try the tilling suggestion offered in another post to loosen it. I feel fairly confident I can get the wheel off but what then? Does the shaft just slide out or are there other retaining clips that must be removed? Thanks for any advice.

    Bookmark   July 9, 2008 at 6:46PM
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Dave Danger--any chance you live in Columbus? I do and I just bought a Horse II, complete with a layoff plow and a front scrape blade. Mine has an 8 HP B&S.

Working on a leaking tire. Question: Comments on wheel removal here refer to removing a roller pin. Do I drive out this pin with a punch and hammer?

Anyone use a scrape blade? How about any PTO attachments, such as generator or wood splitter?


    Bookmark   July 17, 2008 at 8:27PM
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Brian, if the Pony is similar to a Horse the wheel shaft does not have to be removed to change wheel shaft seals. Remove wheels, remove seal by carefully prying it out as outlined in owners manual by driving small screwdrivers thru seal in two places opposite each other and prying out, then lube new seal and slide it over shaft carefully seating it as before with a seal driver. REJ2.

    Bookmark   July 19, 2008 at 4:53PM
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bad_dog(NW Canada)

I'm not having much luck tracking down the hood decal for a 1976 Horse 1. Does anyone know of a source. I've tried Troy Bilt parts department without success. Even if someone had a digital picture I could get one made up.

    Bookmark   August 15, 2008 at 2:07PM
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Hi Everyone,

I need some help identifying what type for Troy-Bilt tiller I have in my garage. The numbers I have gleaned from different areas are as follows:
TH 1002



TH-1201 IF3

Any help on model identification and manuals would be of great help.

Take care,


    Bookmark   March 28, 2009 at 3:39PM
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I have a 1992 Horse with a Briggs and Stratton 7 horse engine on it. I am finding that the transmission is extremely hard to shift. I have changed the 140 weight lube in the tranny but that doesn't seem to help. I can shift it when it's running and by bumping the clutch a little, but with only the strongest effort, to the point where I'm afraid I'm going to break the shifter.... how common is this? This tiller was purchased a couple of years ago and had very very little run time prior to that.. owned by an attorney that probably only put 10 hours on it in the previous 18 years.... didn't shift that hard when I first got it????

    Bookmark   March 6, 2011 at 9:37AM
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I've read mention here of converting condenser ignition to solid state. Can someone tell me if this is available for the HH60 Tecumseh engine?


    Bookmark   March 10, 2011 at 6:43PM
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I have a 1984 Troy-Bilt horse with the HH-60 Spec 105116H engine. I am in N. GA right now and my manual is in S. GA. I have a chance to change my current dying engine with a new Kolar or Honda 7 or 8 HP manual start.

My problem is I need to know the length and diameter of the machined end of the crank shaft where the tiller belt pully mounts.

All help is appreciated by this old, very old, farm boy.

Thank you, ken

    Bookmark   March 19, 2011 at 4:12PM
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I inherited a mid to late 70's horse with the double pully for high and low gear. The problem is this thing is chewing up belts left and right. I recently put alot of money into the engine to get it running good and I can tell this old machine is worth saving but I cant buy a new belt every time I use it. Is this common with these old tillers? Is there a solid fix to this problem? Any real advice will be appreciated.

    Bookmark   March 22, 2011 at 12:40PM
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looking for carb linkage info for a Troybilt Pony Mod# 15009.
Engine is a B&S 135297 Type 0157 01.The B&S Parts list shows mechanical governor rod but not as part of the diagram. I put it together with the rod connected to the throttle crank on the side of the carb and the lower end onto the governor arm. The throttle goes open okay when sliding the toothed plastic block to increase RPMs but doesnt go back to the idle stop screw when decreasing speed (sliding the block back). Does the mechanical governor control the idle speed or am I missing something.

    Bookmark   April 16, 2011 at 5:23PM
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I removed a shot 6 hp tecumseh, took it to a engine sales shop, had the shaft and mounting sized and replaced it with a 6 hp honda Did all of the work in about 2 hrs. The honda is a jewel and is so easy to start

    Bookmark   April 16, 2011 at 10:12PM
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Where can I locate piston rod and rings for TH1002?

    Bookmark   April 19, 2011 at 7:24PM
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I'm looking at purchasing the troy bilt pony 250cc rear-tine garden tiller. What I would like to know is, why is the Pro-Line FRT 160cc garden tiller an extra $200 dollars more than the 250cc but it has 90cc's less engine? I looked at the troy bilt website and the only difference between these two tillers are the price, the engine size, starting system (which I don't understand), and engine maker (Honda vs Briggs & Stratton). Am I paying an extra $200 dollars for the honda name or is there something I'm missing?

    Bookmark   April 22, 2011 at 7:12PM
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Can anyone out there direct me to someone who can tell me if the 8hp Briggs&Stratton Troy Bilt Horse serial # 403 888 I own, was originally manufactured as a counterclockwise rotating tine machine (CRT)or as a forward rotating tine (FRT) machine? The original manual has long since disappeared.
I have had the seals and back assembly redone and the repair shop personnel claim its a FRT. To my recollection the machine was a CRT. Any help would greatly be appreciated......

    Bookmark   May 2, 2011 at 1:24PM
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TH 1003-1

on case

Kohler Magnum 8 engine
model M8T
Spec 301608
305 cc

Need belts and wheels
Runs good, just needs a few things to fix it back up

Anyone know where I can get a manual and parts

    Bookmark   May 2, 2011 at 7:16PM
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Horse Modey Troy Bilt Roto Tiller / power composter
6 HP Serial Number 159896
Engine: Tecumseh #105122J
Serial Number 6113D
I've tried searching the web for: carburetor kit and recoler starter with rope (pull rope)
The owner does have the book, I guess I should have taken the book with me this morning, since after looking a three different sites for parts, I'm confused as to what the part number should be.
Can someone please help me. Thanks

    Bookmark   May 20, 2011 at 10:01AM
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These are forward rotating tine machines, not counter-rotating tines. All of the old Horses were this way.


The number you posted is just a casting number, not the serial number. Look below the T-handle and clean all the gunk off to find a serial number. Parts that you need are readily available from a bunch of sources, including MTD (who took over for Troy Bilt)


If you have the 6HP Tecumseh engine, you dont have all of the model number. What you posted is the "spec" number. Your model number is most likely HH60. Use that model number, and you shouldnt have any problem finding the carb kit. The recoil starter may be a little bit harder to find.

    Bookmark   June 25, 2011 at 7:11PM
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