Carb Adjustment Homelite 33 CC Chain Saw

jerry_njMay 19, 2008

I have owned a Homelite 14" chain saw for a number of years, the first one purchased in 1993. That first one came with a manual that gave guidance on adjusting the carb, including idle and hight speed jets.

My newer one, purchased in about 2005, has been running poorly, lack of power, in fact it is hard to get it to run at full throttle. The manual for this newer saw notes the need to adjust the high speed jet as a possible fix, however, there is no information on where that is, and advises that the saw needs to be taken to the dealer for adjustment of the high speed jet.

Looking at the saw I see two openings in the engine cover, just behind the pull rope handle. One marked "T" and an elongated hole marked "L" and "H". The "T" is clearly the idle speed or "Throttle" set. The other two are rather recessed and hard to see, but with good sunlight or flashlight one can see that inside the elongated hole are two small "nut" heads, perhaps 3/16" or a bit smaller and not much clearance around them, i.e., need a thin-wall socket. I figured this was just another attempt to thwart user adjustments. I stuck a small screw driver in and tried to rotate the "H" a bit, and succeeded ... the saw runs much, much better. The reason for this story? Well, is it possible to get a thin-wall socket or thin-wall nut driver for adjusting these adjustments? What is the size, my 3/16" nut driver looked about right, but the head was too thick to get in onto the adjustment nut.

In the good old days, the owner's manual would tell what tool was needed. Better, there adjustment "screws" would have a "screw" head.

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billw(5b - Kansas)

Before you touch the carb, remove the muffler and check the screen/spark arrestor to see that it is not clogged with carbon from to rich a mixture.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2008 at 12:12AM
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The jet that is closest to the cylinder is the 'L' low jet, and the other jet is the 'H' high side. This is how all the Walbro and Zama carbs are set up so you can remember it by the cylinder.

Several of the manufacturer's have limited your ability to adjust their carbs because of the EPA. Gone is the screwdriver notch and in its place are a bunch of different shaped heads on these jets which you will need a factory tool for. Sooner or later you will need to adjust the carb, and if you dont have their tool your stuck. If your saw is out of warranty, you can remove the carb from the saw and then use a wiring butt connector to fit over the outside of the jet. Once you have the butt connector over the jet, thread it out counter clockwise. Do one jet at a time. Use a hacksaw to re-cut the groove back into the top of the jet. If the saw is still under warranty, stop by their shop and let them adjust it for you.

Re-tune the engine by starting at 1.5 turns out from lightly seated for each jet. There are many threads about carb tuning but if you get stuck just let me know and I will help you get it right.

Best wishes,

    Bookmark   May 25, 2008 at 10:17PM
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46cc chain saw, same problem. I went to the hobby store, bought a short piece of brass tubing, 5/32 inside, 1/4 outside, then used a file to fashion the tip to fit as a tool. Then I soldered a handle on the piece of tubing. My problem: I live at high altitude and the saw never ran right, I am still on warranty, so don't want to mess up the carb.
Also, 2 round trips to the repair facility is 2 days lost, 100 miles driving.
Proper adjustment is where the saw "just barely 4-cycles when under full load at full power". If the saw is too lean and screams, it will burn up. Counter-clockwise on the "H" makes it richen up, it is the "good" direction to move. On the low end, richen up until the saw doesn't stall when you "gun" the throttle from idle. Then set idle to the highest idle so the chain doesn't move. I can run a whole tank at idle without the saw dying. I have found the "sweet spot" for my high altitude. Darn the EPA.

    Bookmark   January 18, 2009 at 6:45PM
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I have a Homelite Super 2 (UT 10654) that is dripping from the muffler and creating lots of smoke. Is this a H / L screw adjustment issue?...Rob

    Bookmark   May 4, 2009 at 6:49PM
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Get your self a Dremel tool. They have cut off wheels that can attach to the tool. AT high speed Cut screw Driver slots on the Carb adjusting screws. Now you can adjust the Carb Like the old days. Wear safety glasses. Depending on the Unit u may have to remove the Carb. The Screws may be counter sunk from the protecting collar. The Dremel cut-off wheel will cut in the collar a minor amount to allow the screw driver slots to be made. Good luck

    Bookmark   October 18, 2011 at 4:10PM
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Thanks, I forgot to check the email notification when I made this post.

I find a tool on ebay;hash=item27bffa16e6

for about $7 which may be what is needed.

I will again check the muffler screen, that is easy to do. I think last check I pulled the screen out of the muffler and could see through it, so assumed that was clean enough.

This Homelite, only about 5 years old from Home Depot, doesn't seem to have a chain brake. I assume those are required on all saws sold in the USA these days...but not just 5 years ago? I think the saw was also called the Homelite Bandit. I mention as a stuck on brake can cause starting problems if the idle is too high.

I had this saw running again today and sawed a couple of chunks off of some stumps I'm trying to get down to stump grinder size. The saw was under sized in that the chain was just long enough to stick out about 1" on the opposite side. So as the cut worked down the friction was enough to make it necessary for the saw to be running real well, it is not, or maybe I simply need a more powerful bigger saw, e.g., my Sears 16", but it too is having starting problems, in this case it may be the chain brake, I'll check to be sure it is tripped on.

    Bookmark   November 21, 2011 at 10:05PM
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Giving credit where it's due: To rmh3481, who posted on this topic 25 MAY 08, and to Billy11 who followed with more advice on 18 OCT 11, you fellows are ever-lovin' geniuses!
The hint to remove the mixture needles using a wiring butt connector, followed by advice to cut the screwdriver slot into them with a Dremel cut-off wheel was just what I needed. -Had to bend the periphery of the butt connector slightly to accomodate the single-D shape. Modified both items very easily, and now the Homelite 14" chainsaw runs perfectly. My Ryobi 20" chainsaw has the "Pac-Man" version. It will get the treatment next, because it direly needs adjusting. Thanks, guys!!

    Bookmark   April 23, 2014 at 3:31PM
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