New and sure could use some help!

Moki_bMay 7, 2013

Hi there.. I have a Ryobi ry60211a rototiller that just won't start. It ran beautifully when I put it away last year, but I did leave the gas in it. However, before I started it this year, I emptied out the gas, put fresh mixed 50:1 gas in it. This is when I discovered it wouldn't start, so I cleaned the air filter, put in a new spark plug. Still nothing. I took off the carb, took it completely apart, cleaned it, put in new fuel lines, new fuel filter, blew everything out and used some stuff called Seafoam to clean out any laquer/gum from the old gas. I made sure the little floaty wasn't sticking. All the gaskets looked pristine (this rototiller belonged to my elderly friend and she never really used it). I put everything back together, still nothing. The gas is very clearly squirting into the carb, I checked the spark, and it's a healthy bright blue, there is gas in the spark chamber. (it even ignited, yikes, when I pulled the plug and set it next to the chamber to check the spark. I've made sure the start switch is on, the choke lever is on. I've tried opening the carb a little more, closing it, spraying starter fluid in the carb, (yes, I know some say not to). I'm not a small engine expert by any means, so I'm pretty stumped as to what to do now. None of the repair places are available at this time of year; they are swamped. I must wait 4 weeks (too late to get my garden going, so there's no point to that) or figure it out myself! Does anyone have any ideas on what to to check next? Maybe an air leak, although I have no idea how/where to check for that. I hope someone can help! Thanks!

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tom_nwnj(z6 NJ)

Looks like you've covered the bases.

But ... I always used Gumout to clean carb parts. Then Stabil for fuel additive. Maybe folks here like the Seafoam brand. But looking a the product page on Amazon, there are customer comments there who say it didn't work as advertised.

I'd probably get some Gumout and have another go at it.

    Bookmark   May 8, 2013 at 2:05AM
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loger_gw

See if this carb cleaning youtube attached below will help. IâÂÂm surprised that your engine has not at least Popped or fired for a second with your good effort.

The only thing I missed was if you checked for compression in the cyl with a gauge or holding your thumb over the plug hole. With your thumb you should not be able to hold the compression in the cyl when you pull as starting. With a gauge w/o looking up the spec, I always look for at least 100 psi. I have seen some low compression starting sys that ran fine with less psi starting.

Gook Luck!

The info below came from this search: Ryobi ry60211a rototiller carb rebuild youtube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PJ3sbpdgJs

Here is a link that might be useful: Carb Cleaning

    Bookmark   May 8, 2013 at 10:09AM
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ericwi

This might get you started, or it might not. I think it's worth a try. Set up a regular, old-fashioned light bulb so it heats the carburetor and engine, gently, for maybe an hour. The idea is to warm the engine, not cook it. You should be able to put your hand on the metal parts and feel some warmth, but that's all. Now, try and start it.

    Bookmark   May 9, 2013 at 12:32AM
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Moki_b

Thank you everyone for your suggestions! I will try them and also view the video and give it another go today. Tom_nwnj: I didn't mention that I used Gumout to clean the carb before I doused it with the Sea Foam and blew it out. The interior of the carb looked very clean when I first opened it up, so I'm not sure I'm inclined to tear it apart again just yet, but I will if nothing else works. And, ericwi... it's been 80 degrees here for the past few days, so I don't think 'warm' is an issue! The metal is already pretty hot as it is from sitting outside : )

It's frustrating since it's definitely getting gas (does that mean the carb IS working properly?), and definitely getting a spark. Yet not even a lick of life when I pull the starter rope. Maybe the on/off switch is not working, who knows. I'll post back with my progress in a bit!

    Bookmark   May 9, 2013 at 3:44PM
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loger_gw

The only thing I missed was if you checked for compression in the cyl with a gauge or holding your thumb over the plug hole. With your thumb you should not be able to hold the compression in the cyl when you pull as starting. With a gauge w/o looking up the spec, I always look for at least 100 psi. I have seen some low compression starting sys that ran fine with less psi starting.

Gook Luck!

    Bookmark   May 10, 2013 at 9:53AM
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ewalk

Moki: Sounds like you have covered the bases . As advised by Loger a Compression test is good practice to determine the current condition of your rings and valves in 2 or 4 cycle engines. I would do a quick test on your on off switch to ensure it is not grounding out your engine in the on position . A multi meter can easily determine it's condition.

    Bookmark   May 10, 2013 at 5:12PM
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