Bar/Chain Recommendations

pgtrMay 10, 2011

I have a Husqvarna 55 rubbish saw, ~2000, 18" bar, 51cc, 2.4kW@9k,

used mostly on hardwood in VERY sandy conditions.

The original bar/chain is: 72DL, 0.325 pitch, 0.050 gauge, 7T sprocket on tip

the bar has both worn unevenly and warped. It no longer cuts straight,

creating a sharp arc and binding badly when it gets deep enough in.

I've flipped the bar over and this helped considerably. But there is

still a warp in the overall bar and so it's cutting action is still

less than straight.

1) Bar Recommendation: Stay with same size bar or consider a 20" bar?

Any specific recommendations for 18 or 20" bars? (Oregon does not

offer separate bars for this particular application) I'm planning to

stay w/ 0.050 gauge absent alternate recommendations.

2) Chain Recommendation: The chain I'm currently using is Oregon

G-Series 95VPX. Good chain or consider something else? (for hardwood

cutting in my case). I'm thinking I can change the sprocket to 3/8

0.375 pitch. The same saw was available back in the day as the '55

Rancher' but came w/ the 3/8 pitch instead.

3) Ripping Option: I'm planning on doing some lumber ripping on a very small scale

(think mini Alaska mill on 6-8 inch hickory or oak logs). I've read

mixed reviews on dedicated ripping chain vs standard chain. Other than

a smoother cut, some say it's slower less efficient, others faster...

So any recommendations here?

Summary: So I'm looking for a bar/chain recommendation and optionally

a ripping chain recommendation.


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masiman(z7 VA)

I'd stay with an 18". 51cc is smallish for a 20" bar, but if you need 20" and don't want another saw then it will work.

Baileys often has decent combos. You might consider a hard tip bar (no sprocket). They are a little more durable but also have a little more friction (more reason to use an 18" or even 16" bar with a hard tip).

If your current setup (.325) is working and not worn, it's probably not worth the money to change. If you are having a hard time finding .325 chain and sprockets, that would also be a reason to change. Other than that, I don't think you'd see much change from switching.

I've always read good things about ripping chains, but I mostly read and rarely mill. I did not use a ripping chain, but would if I did it more regularly. I do think your saw is too small for milling. You can do it but it will really work it. I've milled with a 65cc saw and I wouldn't want to do more than 30 minutes with it again. Chainsaw milling is alot about horsepower and lubrication. I'd like to have a bandsaw mill but the cost is just too high.

    Bookmark   May 11, 2011 at 12:11PM
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Have to agree with Mas a 50cc Class saw is rather small for any serious Milling . Most saws that I have worked on which were Milling able were in the 80 cc class with either 36 " or 44 " solid Nose Bars. Oregon and Granberg both offer fine Semi and Full Skip Chains in 0.50 and 3/8 " Pitch . Most Oregon filing is set at 20 degrees with the Granberg set at 10 Degree as compared to Normal Wood cutting angles of 30 Degree to 60 Degree with Hardwood and Pulp wood cutting Limits . For limited use ptgr as you have indicated your Husky could be tried , beware that milling is extemely hard on any saw . Ensure to use quality Premium bar oil and set the flow heavy and set your chain tension taunt 3/16 " deflection at mid bar with 10 lb pull.

    Bookmark   May 11, 2011 at 2:28PM
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