I had the problem with my tiller, engine runs, but the tines don't rotate. I found out it is the transmission. As Honda demands us to buy the whole thing, did anybody try to rebuild it?
Don't know how you would rebuild it when parts are not available. Not even to dealers.
Early units did have problems. 2 years warranty on the thing and Honda is pretty generous on fudging when it comes to the gear box on these. If the unit is 4 years old they probably won't but I'd go to bat for a customer if its less then 6 months past warranty and feel good of the chances they would approve at least the cost of tranny if the customer payed for the shop labor.
I'll look up the service bulletin and serial range for involved units later today and post for you to check yours against.
Did you get resolution for your tillers?
I have the same tiller purchased 6/2002 with the same problem.
I took it apart and the worm gear shaft is broken. Also the axel gear is stripped. Are there replacment parts?
If Nevada Walrus says parts are not available, they aren't out there. You could get a machine shop to make the part you need, but I promise you it would be much higher than the 105 or so they ask for the transmission. Then you have to find gasket, seals, etc. 105 Dollars isnt too bad for a transmission when you think of it that way.
Where can I get a replacement tranny for $105? The local Honda folks here in MD want to charge me $175 for the tranny, plus $75 labor to install it. That's $250 to fix the old tiller (with a 30-day warrantee on their work) vice $300 for a new one with a two-year warrantee -- not that I wouldn't love to find a way to fix it for less than that $180...
I just had an interesting idea. Bob/Nevada Walrus, if I send my tiller to you with the original receipt, can YOU do the repair? Shipping has got to be less than $50, and overall cost looks much more reasonable, especially if you can get Honda to cough up the new tranny at their expense...
Wanna try it?
I always use Plano Power Equipment for my honda parts sourcing. Not sure if you would need to buy a service manual for the swap or if it easy enough without one though.
Here is a link that might be useful: Plano Power FG100 parts
Wouldn't work Lynn. If it were my shop it would be different but it isn't.
So busy today I didn't have a chance to look for the bulletin you wanted. But you do need to find another local Honda dealer, last time I looked the price of the gear box was indeed around 105 so those guys aren't going to do you any favors like going to bat for you with Honda regarding your short time past warranty.
Also, the replacement is a half hour or less, our shop is on the high side of national averages at 60/hr so they are flat out riping you on labor charges.
A neighbor who has a backyard machine shop is willing to do the work, so I now plan to buy the parts -- thanks for the Plano reference, subywu!
The local Honda shop says they don't know of/can't find any such service bulletin, but that the warrantee is only one year in any case. I need to dig out the manual anyway so plan to check THAT at the same time. Needless to say, I am not impressed.
One other question. Do I need to order anything else (dust seals etc) when getting the new transmission?
No. Just swap your tines, the trans is complete.
Thanks -- will let you know how this goes!
I own an FG-100A that has not had any transmission problems, but I have been doing a little research on the transmissions. As I understand it, the original FG100 uses parts from Hoffco (which makes a mini-tiller called the Lil'Hoe). The Homelite mini tillers that were made years ago also appear to have Hoffco "core" parts.
Individual transmission parts are available for the Hoffco Lil'Hoe and the Homelite MTC-12 tillers.
My wonder was if the wormgear could be purchased for the Hoffco and used in the FG100?
Here are links to two parts diagrams for the two tillers I mentioned.
The Homelite part for the worm shaft (Homelite number 01075-26) listed for $10.47 at Sears.com. Maybe someone that has an FG100 with transmission problems would want to try this and see if the Hoffco parts work.
Interesting idea -- I just ordered the worm gear; we'll see what my local mechanic can do with this. $11 sure beats $110 for replacement parts!
D'you think anything else is likely to need replacement at the same time? Of course, who knows what we'll find when we open that puppy up...
As you stated, you won't really know for sure what is the cause until you get it apart. The tiller has a clutch also, so if the transmission appears good after you get it apart, check the clutch as well.
I guess the ideal thing to do would be to take it apart first, see what is broken, and see if you can order the individual parts to fix it.
Good luck with it. Let us know when you have an update...
Got the Honda transmission in the mail last week, and the worm gear this afternoon. Will turn them over to the neighborhood techie tomorrow -- will let you know what devolves...
My local mechanic took the tiller apart -- he says the trouble is well before the tranny -- he says that when the cable is pulled, the clutch doesn't engage. Writing this down, I wonder if it's because that's the throttle cable, and he doesn't have the other on-off cable engaged? Or might he have a point?
I think he has a point. The on-off switch cuts the engine off but doesn't affect the workings of the throttle lever which engages/disengages the clutch. If you end up needing a new tranny, just make sure you save the old one for parts!
How hard is replacing/fixing the clutch, and what tends to go wrong with those, please?
Well, my neighbor couldn't be bothered to take apart the old tranny to replace the worm gear, so he just threw in the entire new tranny. Fixed the problem -- the thing churns like a champ again! I'll be tracking this thread to see if the worm replcement DOES do the trick, though, for next time...
I found on the Honda website that the FG100 tiller is made for them by Hoffco, 800-99-8161. They sell all of the individual parts if you have a commercial account with them or through one of their dealers if you are an individual. My dealer in North Carolina was Dixie Sales 800-753-4943. Dixie Sales charged me $38.91 for the tine shaft with worm wheel and $1.84 each for the felt seals that go under the dust caps. Tax and shipping added about $15.00 additional but it was in stock and shipped same day.
On the Hoffco website you can download a PDF of an exploded view of the whole transmission with all of the part numbers. http://www.hoffcocomet.com/hoffco/service.htm
Here is the link to the Honda statement that Hoffco makes the FG100, http://world.honda.com/news/1998/p980205.html
Finding a way around Honda's policy to make you buy the whole transmission just made my day!
The same thing happened to my FG100: the tines seized up. I haven't disassembled it to see what the problem is.
Shooter, did the Hoffco parts work for you? I sure hate buying the whole tranny when a few parts are all I need.
Just wanted to add that those with the FG100 should make sure to grease the transmission per manual instructions. Not sure how many hours I use it during the course of the year so just grease it once a year. Takes just 10 minutes to do. The first time I did it, I think most of the lube was spent because it seemed to take a lot before exiting out the vent hole.
Results from ordering spare parts.
The parts installed perfectly and the tiller has worked as new ever since. Disassembly and reassembly is very easy, there are no special tools required. Once taken apart it is very easy to see how it all goes back together, there really is no mystery inside the transmission. There is the shaft from the engine and the tine shaft, they are connected by two gears (which wear out). Be sure to order the shaft seals, I used the old ones and started to get a little grease leakage.
Where can you purchased the tranny for $105?
Local dealer here in Memphis, TN wants $175.
Looks like they increased the cost. Plano used to sell it for that much but now they list it as $170. Maybe they are trying to cash in on all the tranny failures...
I found posting on tranny rebuilding very helpful. I inherited my Honda FG 100 from a neighbor who bought a new one rather than spending $250 plus to fix. I contacted Hoffco who in turn put me in touch with a local distributor who in turn gave me a local dealer who ordered the worm gear for me. With shipping, taxes, two felt seals it came to $50.00. I broke down the tranny before I ordered parts - the old worm gear was completely striped. Not too sure why the worm gear is made of brass - easier to manufacture - safety issues - not clear. At any rate it was very easy to break down and put back together. Runs and works like new.
I am having trouble pulling the shaft seals off. they seem to be fused to the transmission housing which cant be ordered. Any suggestions on how to unstick those metal/rubber seals from the housing?
ah ha! elbow grease- came right off.
Okay, firstly you guys rock! I'm so glad someone took the extra steps and found a way save quite a few $ to fix this problem.
I bought a used FG100 and the second time I used it the transmission went out. I haven't taken it apart yet but will before I order any parts, including new seals, whic is where I'm stumped. Being the shopper I am I called Dixie and they are wanting almost $7ea for the Hoffco felt seals, as were other places I called. Not sure if I was asking for the right seals since that's quite a but more than others here have said they paid.
So out of curiosity I Went to http://www.planopower.com/store/honda/fg100.shtml (look about 2/3 down the page)
I'm confused and not sure which seal(s) I need or if I need to order a set of both.
The two seals are:
Transmission Dust Seal(Inner) Pt#91251-V06-003 @ $1.88ea
Transmission Seal, Felt Pt#23375-V06-003 @ .96ea
Does anyone know the answer to this?
I haven't taken apart my unit completely, but from the drawings, it looks as if there are two seals per side. The inner sear and the felt seal outside of that. If I were rebuilding one, I would plan to order two of each part number (4 total seals).
The link below is of the exploded view for the transmission and illustrates the dual seals per side. Good luck...
Here is a link that might be useful: Hoffco transmission exploded view
I THINK I FOUND A PLACE TO GET MY FG100 TILLER PARTS INDIVIDUALLY FOR THE TRANSMISSION. I ORDERED A NEW GEAR THAT ALREADY COMES ON A NEW SHAFT. IF I GET IT I WILL LET YOU ALL KNOW. THANKS, ROD...
To get parts from Sears you must have the Homelite Code of 517 the part number for the tine shaft w/ worm wheel is 01075-24 The tine shaft and worm gear is shipped as one part. The gear is pressed on the shaft.
Well, that didn't work either. I got the right part number and ordered the tine shaft w/ worm gear. This is the brass gear that strips out under pressure. I find out after about a week that the part is no longer available. You can not get this part from Sears.
You can find Parts for the FG100 Honda Gearbox at Petes Small Engine under Tillers - Honda Transmission
Here is a link that might be useful: Petes Small Engine
Petes Small Engine is a winner. I ordered the part on Friday and got it on Monday. From MN to NC over the week end.
Good service, good price.
I bought a FG 110 two years ago-guess what??? The transmission went out last weekend!! I purchased a new transmission assembly for about $100 and am going to rebuild the old one because I am sure that I will need it in a couple of years.
AA Power Equipment Inc. (www.aapower.net) Has 53 of em in stock for $115 each.
Boy, am I ever glad I went with the Troy-Bilt mini tiller 4 years ago, the Honda FG100 have been plagued with problems both in their engines and their transmissions. Failures have been pandemic with this Honda model.
I tore my fg100 down today (because tines quit turning) and right before splitting the lower unit, all bolts removed already. i thought i would hand turn the clutch drum and the tines turned. So I looked closer at the 2 clutch shoes and there is only about (guessing here by looks) 8mm-9mm of shoe left on each.
How much shoe is on each clutch shoe when new? Anyone got a pic of a new clutch? part number and idea of price?
Do you think it could be a clutch being it turned by hand or a to striped lower unit and cant keep up?
Ok, I found the clutch assy here from one of the links. I just wonder if it is the worn clutch shoes or the lower end now. Wife does use this tiller alot, I would guess 20-30 hours a year for at least 4 years now (maybe 1-2 more) cant remember when we bought it.
Wasn't the clutch. I decided before ordering the clutch, I would take the lower unit apart to make sure it wasn't the brass gear on the tine shaft. Well it was the brass gear on the tine shaft, worn in one direction. So till I get the parts, I flipped the shaft around so the brass gear went the opposite direction and its works again for now, temp fix till getting new unit or parts.
is there anywhere in Canada to get these parts for the transmission, these companies don't seem to ship to Canada. the local dealer wants $225 for the transmission, and they have to install it which would be about another $70.
Hi, If any of you guys end up with a good 4 cycle Honda engine (GX 30 or preferably GX35) and a junk tiller, I might be interested in the engine for a bike I've been messing around with. I hate to buy a new one, as it's an experimental thing.
Well thats all it took tine shaft with new pressed on brass gear. part #15 on IPL 2nd link. Part cost $35 and took about a hour to replace. If you buy the whole trans for $115 it will take you less then a half hour to replace it, 6 bolts total.
Lesson learned, make sure to grease lower end once a year per owners manual, never knew that before and bet thats why a bunch of these have this problem. Kind you use in a grease gun to grease ball joints and U-joints.
Pete's had the part to me in 3 days.
Thanks for the service reminder, I just went out and greased the transmission on my Troy-Bilt today, and changed the spark plug.
tomuchmowing: Thanks for the link.
You are right about the tranny greasing! I bet you some are getting close to locking up and the worm gears are stripping!
Although most small engine repair places are going to tell you that you have to replace the whole transmission, there are really only two pieces in the FG100 transmission that go bad, one is the vertical shaft (a 20.00 part) and the other is the axle w/worm gear (a 35.00 part). All that is required is the ability to take out about 7 small bolts, and a little grease on the hands. I was told the whole transmission had to be replaced, but when I took it apart, only the worm gear was worn down, so instead of spending 200.00 to get it fixed at the repair shop, I am doing it myself for 35.00. The parts can be ordered from Pete's Small Engines. Feel free to email me with any questions about this.
Here is a link that might be useful: Pete's Small Engines
Anyone find replacement worm geat for tine shaft? Pete now asking $43.25 for repacement shaft with new brass gear. I can press off and replace gear if available. Should cost less than $20(?).
Bought this FG 100 A1 serial #6183025 on ebay. Seller said tranny failed in less than 5 hours. Drained what looked like 30 weight oil from tranny and not a hint of grease Honda recommends. Don't know who put in light weight oil but tranny doomed. Split tranny case apart and brass chips covered bottom. Brass tine-shaft gear completly chewed off on one side and process almost burned up clutch. Vertical worm gear looks ok and thinking it will not need replacing. Any thoughts on this?
Would appreciate recommendation on sealer when reassembling case.
Always replace gears in sets;gears develop a wear pattern,that cannot be duplicated,and if you don't replace both,you may have to do this job again very shortly..........
I also have a honda tiller that quit after about 2 years. After reading all of these postings I decided to try and rebuild the transmission myself. I have it on the kitchen table, but I am having trouble getting the tines to slip off the shaft. They hit the end and wont come off. Is there a trick to it?
I'm also rebuilding my honda worm gear shaft assembly. Had a rock get hung up between the tine tin and the tines and stopped the tiller dead. Looks like the worm gear shaft and or the connecting shaft or both may be bent. Havin a heck of a time getting the peices seperated from one another. Anyone have any suggestions or have a similiar experience rebuildind this unit. Tiller had less than 2 hours on it before the rock did it in. Had a parts supplier say there pretty tough units if you keep them lubed and avoid rocks. AVOID ROCKS!? How the heck do you do that? Thanks for any help.
Here is a web site with most of the transmission parts.
Can anyone tell me if we can use Lithium grease? The only Petroleum #2 grease I can find requires us to buy a grease gun!
You should be able to find some gear lube grease in a tube. That is what I use. Found it at Auto Zone s I recall.
The grease is also available at Pete's Engine site $4.25. The prices have gone up from what was said on earlier sites but still reasonable. The part numbers match Hoffco's. My local dealer sells the trans for $125 and claims they have been beefed up. Hoffco confirmed that they changed the material spec on the gear that fails. Right now I'm trying to get Pete's to confirm that their parts are the latest and greatest with the more robust gears. I think I'll go with the new trans because I don't have alot into this tiller and my old one shows alot of corrosion inside. All the parts are available to rebuild except for the case halves from Pete's. I had to use a puller to get my tines off the shaft after soaking them with Gibbs and it was still a job. There is alot of info on this site and I thank you for all for that!
Do all the tines come off?I'm having a heck of a time getting one of the tines(B)to come off.The thing must be fused on from use,I might have to get a wheel puller.Any thoughts?
Thank you very much sharing the information. I have the same tiller. Just this year, when I started it for the first time, it started fine. the twins were spinning too. But when I engaged the clutch(lever on the handle) while the twins touching the ground, there was no power to the twins at all. Twins won't move. I picked up the tiller while pressing the clutch liver, the twins seems moving fine.
It seems like the twins won't move while there is resistance from the ground. I read the entire chain in the forum. It seems like it might be the transmission. Or may be the clutch.
Does anyone know if the transmission from a Honda FG110 will bolt up to my Harmony FG100? Thanks
Far as I know, the tines between the two are DIFFERENT. So for one thing, you can not use what you have already. I saw my dealer have the FG100 tines on sale cheap. Double check what I said though.
Also, they use different engine, FG100 use GX31 and the FG110 use GX25. Don't know whether the FG110 gear box is strong enough for the GX31 which is 31cc. Also the mounting and clutch will fit.
Think you better off buying a Mantis 2 cycle if your FG100 take a pooper!!! Of cause you can keep changing the gear in the gear box as this post had been talking.
I bought the Mantis with GX25 engine less than a year ago with dethatch, aerator and edger tine. Dethatcher work very good. I think the Mantis cultivator tine works very well, should be better than the Honda Bolo tine. You can dig and till with tine in one direction, cultivate in the other direction. It work very well too.
Thank you Yungman. I have access to a FG110 transmission cheap and thought I'd give it a try if it will bolt up easily. From reading this thread it appears the FG110 tranny is significantly beefed up over the FG100. I know the tines are different but I think it is just a matter of one inch in diameter -- So if it will bolt on without modification I may give it a try.
All this info about rebuilding is great, but what about being completely ripped off by Honda!!! They knew the transmissions were junk when they sold them.My tiller is 7 yrs. old however it only has 75hrs on it,From day one I had problems, I have had to replaced throttle cable, have replace primer bulb 4 times and now they tell me trans. and clutch is shot! they want $400.00 to replace it!! I only paid $300.00 new!!!!.... Called Honda to complain and they told me to go pound sand..
Serves Honda right for outsourcing the tiller mfg to another company. They should have done it up themselves or just be content selling their engine to Mantis.
Honda has been doing this for awhile Passport! Isuzu rodeo, Isuzu trooper has contracted out about 15 brand names, Acura, honda, euro/aussie chevy to name a few, But we see old Troopers and rodeos as junk, but hondas will run for ever and worth more! yea right!
All about preception! Rice is great! rice is better Quality than US brands. Even in the dinky world we find out the Presceptions aren't as great as the hype!
Makes me beat my chest with my $119 41 year old cheap american made Gibson/Kmart MTD chain drive tiller 3 1/2 HP briggs that I spent less than 20 bucks on replacement parts in the pass 40 YEARS. couple of air filters, spark plugs, and a BELT. O a set of points two years ago. Us that have alittle mechancial knowldege know that presceptions are NOT always better.
I'd like to see a honda,or any japaneese ,piece of equiptment,run for 40 yrs. with $40 worth of replacement parts..........hell,even a simple belt will probably be obsolete in 15 yrs.,or will have to be special ordered,for $50 Ha Ha Ha..........
Actually, Hoffco is American--sad to say, which nowadays is hit or miss quality. Products actually made in Japan don't seem to share that kind of variability. We FG100 owners are talking about cheap American quality... the peanut gallery is a little confused.
Not really I didn't buy thinking I got the best. I'll say it again preception and the big sucking sound! I GOT SCREWED.
just completed rebuld of the fg-100 tiller by honda and it cost me 26.00 dollars for the brass gear that was totaled plus shipping....it was a snap......called hoffco and they sent it out to me ...just tell them your a small engin repair co......read past blogs to get tel number of hofco customer service
I went to re-grease the tranny today--it's been two years since I did it last. What's odd is that the tranny grease was still full and looked pretty good. The first time I did it (about two years after ownership), there was hardly ANY grease in there. I can remember while I was filling the tranny through the fill hole, nothing was coming out the vent hole. When I put in new grease today, a ton of my old grease came out. Could these tranny's be failing because they have hardly any gease from the factory?
In any case, my FG100 is still plugging along. engine runs like a champ--starts first time and runs smooth. Still worried about the trans though. Only use it in the spring and gets new oil at the end of the year.
just bought a tine shaft/worm wheel from Pete's Small Engine. Any problem with using hi-temp gasket sealer before reassembling the tranny housing? Also, any other maintenance needed with the clutch while it's taken apart?
I have the Mantis bought direct from Mantis. The trans failed after 7 months. Only about 25 hours or so used. They shipped a new transmission to me. At that time, I did open the cover and found out the inside was bone dry!!!! They forgot to put greese in!!! So to answer the question....Yes it happens!!!! I know because the outside of the gear housing is dry, no greese stain at all, it could not have been leaking out.
I thought that since this thread helped me I should relay my experience.
I found this thread by searching for Honda FG100 Transmission, and perhaps you did as well. We bought our FG100 new in 4/01, and it has been worked hard ever since. The transmission finally gave out on ours just a week ago.
My experience fixing it:
Tearing it down was tough.
Tine "B" for some reason was frozen in place. I think that we must have hosed it off once and put it away for the winter without removing and drying the tines.
The set screws in the dirt shields were frozen, requiring that pry one of the shields off. Penetrating oil helped the other. A small wire was sufficient to clean out the set screw itself (8 years of whatever stuck in there).
By now, I have about 1.5 hours into the teardown.
Removing the deck from the transmission required drilling one pop-rivet and then swinging the deck plates apart. I have a pop-rivet gun, but frankly the unit works fine once bolted together so don't worry about that one rivet. The four tranny bolts hold it all together really well.
Into the transmission: the brass gear has missing teeth and there is evidence that our hosing of the unit regularly is getting a small amount of moisture inside. Surface rust on the driven shaft - I removed it easily with some 1/0 steel wool but it could probably be left as-is. The worm gear looks fine. The oil-lite bearings show little wear. The clutch shoes have plenty of lining left.
By now, thanks to this thread, I have found Pete's Small Engine, and located the proper parts.
861969-HO Felt Seal
861585-HO "Honda FG100 Tine Shaft with Worm Wheel"
I bought two sets (an old habit, I guess) and the total with shipping was 94.57.
BTW: in my research I found that Hoffco used this transmission for a very broad assortment of cultivators sold under various brands (such as K-Gro, Yard-Man, and American Yard Products). The IPBs look identical and the parts look identical.
The parts arrived in two short days! Perfect order, and a fantastic organization. This is one heck of a shout out to them.
At this point, armed with the proper parts, I carefully cleaned everything and soaked the oil-lite bearings. This tranny is a split-case so there is a center seal. I cleaned all of that off. You can probably use lots of stuff for that seal, however I have trusted high-temp RTV (auto parts store) for 30 years for an application like this and it worked perfectly. This is a simple silicone sealer (blue or red) and you will want to apply it in a thin layer on one side of the housing seal face, carefully cleaning out the screw holes. A thin layer is all you want so that it doesn't spread out into the worm gear.
Here you need to lube the parts before assembly. I recommend that you squirt a few drops of 30w or some suitable assembly oil on all bearing surfaces, but you don't want a puddle.
Once you have it re-assembled, you will want to insert every case screw and tighten so that the RTV can form in place there should be very little excess RTV, but this is a good time to wipe it off if there is any.
Re-assembly from here is simple, and in total I have maybe 3 hours into it (half of that trying to remove the tine).
Once you have it all together, you'll want to fill up the gearbox with grease. Hoffco recommends "any suitable high-quality petroleum-based grease" and the Honda Manual (I have it still) says: "Replacement grease should be a high quality petroleum based NLGI #2 general purpose grease usually available in disposable tubes at most hardware or automotive parts stores". National Lubricating Grease Institute (I had no idea that such a thing existed). NLGI#2 is literally available everywhere such as Schucks/Kragen or NAPA for 2 and change bucks a tube. If you look right by the shaft, you will see two phillips screws (one below and one above). The bottom one is the fill hole and the top one is the air vent. Remove them both, and fill the bottom one (with a gun or tube) until it starts to come out the top one. Then put the screws back of course. All this according to the manual. Pete's sells a little tube of lube which looks to be handy (with a tip and all) though a little more money than the auto parts store.
My tiller has about two hours of operation or so since the work and it seems to be quieter today than when it was new.
I hope that this helps someone out. I thank you all for this forum, as I now have my FG100 back. I looked at the FG110 and briefly considered it, but if you compare them you will probably come to the same conclusions I did. I fixed the FG100 and I am glad that I did.
Story: FG100A Transmission not working.
Symptom: Engine is running, twine is moving but no power at all. Seems to be something missing!!!!
What I did:
a) Though it might be a Clutch issue, so I adjusted the clutch, no remedy.
b) Took it to a local yard equipment service shop. Couldnt figure out what happened. Instead did a unnecessary servicing and charged 35$
c) Then I found this forum. Read carefully through the post and was kind of sure that the transmission is the issue.
d) Since I havenÂt done any such thing before, without taking the risk, took it a countryside yard/farm equipment center. They charged 18.75$ to estimate that the transmission had to be replaced and the total charges are 240$.
e) This is where my alter ego came alive and I said to myself, "Dude, time to grab the bull by the horn"
f) 1 hr: Took the entire transmission apart. Discovered the "Worm wheel" was 80% teeth less. Gotcha!!! Also Noticed that the Grease inside was dry. So part of my problem could be my negligence of greasing it properly.
g) While I open the transmission I have cleaned all the existing parts that I am going to re-use, I cleaned all of then with Gas/Petrol. Poured Petrol in a container and soaked the parts first and used a nylon brush to scrub of the dried up grease.
h) Went to PeteÂs Small Engine Site, and printed the Transmission Parts Breakdown Picture.
i) Ordered the following:
a. 861585-HO Honda FG100 Tine Shaft with Worm Wheel Qty 1
b. 861583-HO Honda FG100 Thrust Washer Qty 2
c. 861969-HO Honda FG100 Felt Seal Qty 2
d. 861937-HO Honda Tiller Seal Qty 2
e. 705-856-ST Extreme Pressure Grease Qty 1
Total : with shipping: 64.17$
j) Ordered on Thursday night, Parts arrived Monday morning.
k) Got excited and put it back together. After doing that, greased it. The grease container head/sprout has some threading. So be careful. Just cut the very end/tip of the sprout. Once done, you can screw the sprout in the Grease Fill hole. Make sure the Upper Air Vent Screw is open. And Squeeze it in !!!!! SqueezeÂshake the transmission a little, for even spread. And then you will see the Grease coming out of the Air vent. Stop !!! Greasing Done !!!!. Screw both Greasing screws.
l) Attach the tranny to the Engine, 4 bolts !!! a single put !!! engine raved up !!! everything seemed to be working but ALAS! No power. Tried to throttle to rave up the engine !!! Oh ! No !! the throttle cable was loose.
m) Ok ! adjusted the cable and with my finger crossed and nock on the deck ! I started the engine back again. And Raved the throttle ! Wolah !!!! I am on the move.
n) Put Dirt cover, Twine in place and took it for the actual test. Surprise ! Surprise ! I fixed it !!!!!!
Thank you so very much for all the members and the posts. And moreover the time everybody has taken to write and post. CanÂt ask for more, but a PARTY TO CELEBRATE THE FORUM MEMBERSÂ CONTRIBUTION.
Thanks to all for the helpful information in this forum! I've had the FG100 since 2001.
Last year the tiller started loosing power and I noticed the trans was very hot. How did I miss the part in the manual about greasing the trans?!!! I went 8 years (moderate heavy use) without ever adding grease.
So I filled it with grease and the power returned. But after using it for an hour this year, the trans froze up solid. When I put a wet finger to the bottom of the trans, it sizzled.
I took the trans apart (again, thanks for all the insight given above). It still had plenty of grease. But the worm wheel was chewed up in one area.
Considering all the information above in this thread, I decided to purchase the trans from Pete's for $127 including S&H. The way I see it, I probably overheated some of the parts. If I replaced the tine shaft with worm wheel and associated bushings, washers, and seals, the cost is about $67 including S&H. If I also replace the worm shaft and all associated parts, the cost is about what a new trans cost, or more. As jammer1 mentioned above, I'd be concerned about having to "do this job again very shortly."
My neighbor owns a small engine repair shop and every now-and-again he brings home a junk pile; things that were too expensive to repair and never picked up, things that have bills on them but have sat, unpaid, for years, etc.
Well, tonight, I helped him unload his trailer and low and behold, he pulled off a mini-tiller. I had been looking for a mantis on Craigslist but during gardening season they are getting a premium for them. Being this is our first attempt at a garden, and being that I have many other hobbies, I wanted save as much hoeing as possible.
Anyway, he told me to take it home and play with it- as I have many other things in the past (troy bilt tiller, echo string trimmer, etc). I checked the oil in this little Honda tiller, put some fresh gas in it and gave her a few pulls. Nothing. I pulled the plug and made sure she was firing, yep. I shot a shot of ether in the plug hole and put the plug back in. She fired right up! Yea ha! Just in typical Honda fashion, it ran very quiet and sounded great. That is, all but the tines wouldn't turn. Oh, man! I got the model #, typed it in to a Google search and this thread was the first one to come up. After I spent about 20 minutes reading all of the threads, I went back out in the garage and tore it down. I washed all of the parts in the parts washer and, sure enough, I have a striped brass gear. Shoot, mine was even cracked! I came in the house, clicked on Pete's link and ordered the gear on the shaft and 4 seals.
I'll keep ya'll posted. I can't wait to get my $56 mini-tiller going.......
Thanks for all the help, here.....
Thanks for all these postings! I have my tiller transmission apart but can't get the tine shaft with the brass gear out of the transmission case. Any help anyone can give would be great.
Got it! I finally found the other set screw on the other dust cover. It was filled in with dirt and I just missed it. I'm now ready to order parts and get it back together.
I am going to change the transmission oil but am unable to get the dust cap off with the correct size allen wrench. Any suggestions? I am also going to attempt to rebuild the transmission but question if I am not able to do so, would I be able to use my dethatcher attachment with any other tiller? Thanks for the help in advance and for all of the other great posts.
This is a followup to my 6/3/09 post.
Received the trans from Pete's Small Engine about one week after the order was placed. Noticed the Drum & Hub wobbled when the shaft was turned by hand. It's the piece at the top of the trans that's part of the clutch. Someone probably dropped the trans. Bent it back straight with a hammer and wood block.
Filled the trans with more grease. There was plenty of grease in there, but it took more before coming out the air vent hole.
It's been in use since June 11, or about 3 weeks now. It has about 3 hours on it and is working well. The original problem was the trans seriously overheated and locked up because I never put grease in it. The new trans is much cooler to the touch after use.
The worm-wheel on the tine shaft was stripped; replaced the entire shaft/wheel assembly. Prior to connecting the trans. to the motor, I manually turned the drum to make sure the tine shaft rotated (yes). But once the tiller is assembled, the motor runs, but the shafts do not rotate... is this a clutch issue? Thanks in advance if someone has an inkling into this... Reuben
Drum? You mean the clutch bell? If so, should be your clutch. That should be easy to replace.
The drum is at the very top of the transmission assembly; in other words, it's the topmost piece of the worm (vertical) screw (it's the brassy looking cylinder at the top of the trans... see top photo in http://www.petessmallengine.com/html/page_163.html). I guess you could call it the clutch bell...
Since I posted earlier today, I've gotten the motor to turn the tine shaft but ONLY because I loosened the 2 screws a the bottom of the trans that assist in keeping the two halves of the trans together. The problem, of course, is that this leaves a small gap between the two halves that can let in dirt, etc. and that really should not exist.
I think I've put all the pieces in the trans correctly, but may have to open it up again...
Just want to verify, the "drum is where the engine clutch go in. That looked like the drum bell to me.
If you have to loosen the screws that hold the two half of the transmission casing together, you got problem of the transmission. I thought you said you can turn the drum with your hand and saw the tine turn!!!! If you can turn it with your finger, the engine should be able to turn it. You better double check again. That don't make sense at all.
similar issue with no tines turning but can start and run the tiller...pulled transmission apart, no issues with worm gears or shaft. Actually, the brass worm gear had minor grooves or arched fins, is that normal? i put back together and lubed up with some generic grease(which seems much thicker than what was in there - dont know when the last time it was filled with grease, i inherited this from my grandfather). i can turn the clutch bell but is a little difficult...obviously it doesnt turn extremely freely, but there is no grinding, just a little hard to turn. Assembled everything back together and still have an issue with no tines turning.
Could it be a clutch issue? How thick should the pads be on a normal operating clutch?
I don't think the bell/drum should be that hard to turn, but if you can turn the thing, the engine should be able to turn it no problem. Sounds like you do have a clutch issue. No I have no idea how thick the clutch is, but it should not cost you a lot of money to buy a new pair.
received the new clutch from Petes - unfortunately it looks exactly the same as the one currently on the tiller. Is there an adjustment for the engagement of the clutch that i could fool around with to try to get it to grab? Or should i just break down the transmission again and replace the worm gears for the hell of it? as i mentioned before, i can turn the bell by hand and it spins the tines, it's just a little difficult.
I don't have the shop manuel of the GX31, but I looked at the GX25 and look like the clutch has only one spring holding the two half, or else you can take one off. I don't know if you take the spring off, things will start flying. If you check nothing can fly apart with the spring off, you can always try taking it off, carefully put back together and run it AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! Other than that, I have no other suggestion.
You ever try loosening the screws holding the two half of the transmission casing a little to see whether it turn easier?
You try hand turn the clutch to make sure it attach to the engine?
You rev the engine high and still no engagement?
I just wanted to thank all of you who have taken the time to create/post on this forum. When my tiller seized up I tore it apart just for curiosity sake to see how the thing works. When I found the stripped gear I decided to google and found this forum. I've never done anything like this before but decided it was only a small gamble to order the parts and see what I could do. Pete's was out of stock for the winter but recently got the parts in and after a few attempts at getting things put back on in the right order, my tiller runs like a champ now. Thank you all for your great information. You saved me a couple of hundred dollars!
A couple of questions. Is it possible to marry the FG100 4 stroke engine to a Mantis 2 stroke chassis and transmission&
Does anyone know of a prts dealer who will ship to the UK?
Yes. Mantis used to use the GX31 that is same as one on FG100. Go on Mantis site and look through the different manuals. Find the one with the IPL and you should be able to order the parts. I believe the gear box is always the same. I wrote to Mantis just a month ago after learning they have a bigger Mantis using the GX35 engine. They confirmed that the gear box is the same as the existing one.
I don't know about the shipping but you should be able to order from dealers in UK that sell Mantis. YOu just download the correct IPL from Mantis of the model that use GX31 and order the parts.
Many thanks for the reply. So my dilemna is to repair an FG100 gearbox - if I can convince a US seller to ship me the parts, or to obtain an battered 2 stroke mantis and marry the 2.
I might end up trying both and report back.
Great forum by the way - folks!
If you don't have an old Mantis, buy a new one!!! Don't know price in UK, but I can get one for $299 with the Echo engine which is a true commercial engine.
If you have to buy a used Mantis, then have to buy the parts, you might end up spending more to safe the GX31. Why not modify for either a bicycle or RC model plane. GX31 is popular in these two area. Then buy a new Mantis and start fresh.
Yeah - but buying new isn't as satisfying (or frustrating) as resurrecting a dead tiller.
Do you have the term "S&M" in UK?!!!!
Well do whatever you want. Make sure you check for any play by rotating the tine back and fore to check the main gear is in good condition when you buy the Mantis.
ok - decided what the hell and bought the whole rebuild kit from Petes. Put it together, greased it up and let her rip. Finally got the tines to start working again.
My issue now is that it seems like it is overheating and cutting out after 10 minutes or so of use. I'll be tilling and then the when she heats up, it'll start to cut out and stall - the tines will freeze up some and then she stalls. I touched the case and it is VERY hot - do you think it has something to do with the new parts heating up and expanding? and yes, i used the grease that Petes supplies and filled her up, shook it, turned the drum and filled it up again. so it should have enough grease.
I decided that with the poor exchange rate, shipping and import duty, to source a whole transmission in the UK. Just noticed one of the tines has broken off.
Question, can tines and dethatcher kit etc from the FG110 or Mantis fit onto the FG100?
I don't thinks so on the first pass, because the FG110 and FG100 use different model tines. I know because my dealer had the FG100 tines ( different tines) on sale big time. If it will fit the new FG110, they won't do that.
I am not sure about the Mantis, but I never read anything about being interchangable.
I think you should cut your loss. The FG100 has problem and the last thing you want to do is to invest more money into it. You might as well start out with a new FG110 or Mantis. Particular the 2 cycle Mantis is only $299 here. It is still a good little cultivator, you don't need to have the Honda engine.
I've now sorted and uprated the transmission. I like the FG100, it's got more power than the FG110, which is what I need for my clay soil. The Mantis would be the equivalent of $480 this side of the pond - we get ripped off for everything here!
Oh I forgot. I did look at the FG110 in the dealer. The tine shaft is bigger than the Mantis, It definitely not going to fit.
Holy, $480. Honda engine or the 2 cycle. Remember the 2 cycle is a very good engine. It is the Echo 21cc engine. It is beyond proven. It has plenty of power. Power has never been a problem.
How about the Stihl YardBoss. It is German make, is it cheaper in your country? It has more attachments than both Honda and Mantis. If you can get it cheaper, go for it. I think it is about $300 in US.
Thats the 2 stroke version. I'm afraid everything is more expensive here! You lot have it so good over there!
I'm just as much into renovating as using, so i'll keep an eye out for a battered Mantis, just for the fun of it.
So I have a sweet little noisy and smelly 2 stroke Mantis that runs like the wind. No problems other than the noise and smell. Well I check the local classifieds all the time and I called on a Honda FG100. The guy wanted $75
and when I left he was begging me to take it for $50.
I took it and it needed some help. I'm not sure if mine is as bad off as a lot of yours are, but I'll be tearing the trans down to have a look see. I have usually been a honda fanatic I own a Honda 1100 Shadow, Snowblower, lawnmower, pressure washer. and this fg110 tiller is making me like the Mantis all the more. Not Happy to hear all the bad news about this tiller. Thanks for the info. The jury is still out!
I have replaced the clutch and when I put the unit in the dirt, it stops tilling. Is there a replacement for the clutch hub?
Certified parts corporation bought out Hoffco. They do have parts.
I'm getting ready to order the rebuild kit for the FG100 tranny from Pete's. Original tranny failed five years ago and I bought a new tranny (all that was available at the time) and now it has failed.
For some time I have had a problem with the tranny grease blowing up through where the tranny joins the engine. It isn't a great deal of grease, but enough where it oozes down and collects dust. When I pulled the tranny and disassembled it today, I didn't see any type of seal or gasket. What gives?
Wow! Ordered parts for tine shaft rebuild (rest was OK) from Pete's on Sat. Mailed on Mon and received on Wed. Super service. Local shop wanted $220 for new trans. and $60 to install.
It seems this thread has been inactive for a couple of years. Hopefully someone will see my post.
The gear on the worm shaft is almost completely devoid of teeth. I'm debating between replacing the 2 gears or getting the complete rebuild kit. Also Ereplacementarts.com shows a complete transmission for $108.86. If this is a completely assembled transmission, it would be much easier than rebuilding all the parts.
What's the consensus regarding just replacing gears vs. doing a total rebuild?
Ken, what's a part number or URL for the assembled transmission at ereplacementparts.com ? So far, I have just found the transmission rebuild kit Part Number: 06200-V06-305 for $128.
My bad - the complete transmission is for the FG 110 not the 100. I ended up buying the kit and just finished the rebuild. It went pretty well.
I just received the kit from Pete's Small Engines.
Step 6 of the transmission assembly kit instructions shows screwing the clutch drum to the connecting shaft using a socket stem Honda p/n 07916-3710101. What alternative tools have folks here used for this step?
I just clamped the shaft in a vise and used a couple of blocks of wood to keep the vice jaws from damaging the shaft. I turned the drum by hand until it was tight.
I have just opened my FG100 and the brass gear is all worn down to a frazzleâ¦ I went to Perte's small engine site and the transmission assembly is out of stock until July 10 but the whole kit for $121 is available..I emailed them if it is available now but got no replyâ¦ I went to the plano site and the same trans assembly is also out of stock, so ordered in amazon sold by weingartz for 128 plus 18 shippingâ¦ thank you for taking the time to write all your findings and DIY work aroundâ¦â¦. I will post my experience rebuilding this FG100 tranny..