Troy Bilt Tiller HH60's version

jdhayesJune 11, 2010

where to start? I have a HH60 105115H Ser#21460 bought a few day's back. guy who owned it from new say's he bought it sometime in the 1980's hardly used it, had it tuned in 1990 and would start it up every year for a few moments. It has alway's been stored inside - thank you for small favors!!

he had recently put a carb rebuild kit in, cause the carb was leaking, and had not put it back on correctly. so we could not get it to stay running and gas was leaking out like crazy. owner finally located a proper screw to hold other side of carb onto the engine, a Tecumseh. So, could get it to run and stay running long enough to run it up onto our truck. oh gas tank leaks too. so got it home, started up-backfired and died. started again, back it off the truck died again, out of gas CAUSE THE TANK LEAKS!. put more gas in it started it up moved it under the shed lean-too. and noticed that not only is it still leaking gas, but now oil is coming out the crank case vent hole, like an artery has been cut? what the heck? that was not happening when we loaded it up? i finally figured out that the vent tube was missing? attached a rubber tube to the brass flange and repaired all the gas leaks, fired it up runs good, but oil is still pumping out this makeshift vent tube. i have ordered through our local tractor store the parts.

however anyone have a thought as to why the oil continues to come out the tube? is it supposed to connect up to something else? the engine parts diagram does not indicate that? Help!!!

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Change the oil. You may have loaded up the crankcase with extra gas going past the valves. Oil floats, and may be the source from the vent pipe. That happened to my Kohler garden tractor.

    Bookmark   June 11, 2010 at 7:47PM
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ok, the oil change made a huge difference. you were right the oil had lots of gas in it. so put new oil in, and walla no more leaking. can you tell me where the breather tube attaches? does it hook up to the breather hole and up to the nipple under the air breather?

    Bookmark   June 12, 2010 at 6:24PM
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It hooks to the breather cover, but some just hung down and vented to the atmosphere.

    Bookmark   June 12, 2010 at 10:38PM
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the tube connects between breather plate (rectangular plate behind air filter housing), and the filter housing. It allows oil to drain back to crankcase. Manual says engine is overfilled if engine sits level while checking oil dip stick. We are supposed to push height adjuster all way down to 'traveling position' where tines won't dig in (and engine is tilted forward), before adding oil. Overfilled engine will pour oil out of filter cover.
You should find a gromet like thingy inside the breather cover. It is jammed into the tube to keep it in place on the cover.

    Bookmark   June 13, 2010 at 10:03PM
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If it's a mid 80s engine, the drag bar is set all the way down and a 1 1/2" board is set under the drag bar. Then, you check the oil.

    Bookmark   June 14, 2010 at 6:35AM
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I always thought the engine should be sitting level when ya check the oil!?!? I've never heard of having the engine in any other position.
My pickemup has to be more or less level when checking the oil in the engine, and i'd think all other engines would be too.
Only thing you might accomplish by your idea would be too much oil in the crank-case, and that would cause foaming and cavitation, plus it might cause other troubles.
The tiller engine, installed on the tiller, and filled with the proper amount of oil, will have enough lubrication to keep everything lubed well! And since the crank-shaft revolves, and the conn-rod moves up and down, and goes around with the crank, oil splashing in the case keeps everything lubed well! No danger of not being well lubricated, unless you don't keep checking the oil level when it is sitting level. Too much oil will definitely cause problems!

    Bookmark   June 15, 2010 at 9:49AM
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Troy sent along an addendum with the owner's manual. I think I got the first year model of the PTO. Probably, due to redesign, the board had to be put beneath the drag bar to level out the motor. The pre-PTO must not have had this problem.

    Bookmark   June 15, 2010 at 11:23AM
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Thanks everyone for the help. And I think we are getting closer to the "real" problem. Apparently after changing oil and running tiller several times, it then sat for a few day's. When one of the guy's moved it he found gas had again leaked into the crank and that it was leaking out of the bottom screw of the carb. He feels we should do a rebuild of the carb, and I agree. Once we figure out which carb we have I'm hoping we can get parts for it. Anyone know a good place to start for parts. HH60 105115H Ser#21460 - I'm hoping a local Lawnmower place may help us out?

    Bookmark   June 17, 2010 at 2:22PM
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For carb parts you could likely succede with they sell carb parts for the hh60. In despairation you can get new carbs at ebay or amazon. But doesn't this just sound like a needle valve/seat or bad float? that should have been found with the original carb rebuild. If the rubber needle valve seat is pushed in badly (cocked, or perhaps upside down, or left out) the carb will surely leak.

Rusty, my original post re tipped engine was directly from my 1978 original Troy Built manual, and I think I saw something formal about the additional board baymee talked about; perhaps from another part of the manual or from my addendum manual or perhaps another post here.

    Bookmark   June 18, 2010 at 12:39PM
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The HH60 carb is like every other common Tecumseh small engine carb. You replace the needle and seat and clean the main jet. You should also remove the Welch plug on the side and make sure the 3 holes under it are open and clean. A 10 minute soaking in a rinsable carb cleaner will cure 99.9% of all Tecumseh carb problems.

I don't have any pictorials on this job yet.

    Bookmark   June 18, 2010 at 9:36PM
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