How to build ramps for loading lawn tractors

like_my_yard(Central NC.)April 30, 2008

It's that time of year again. You can build a SAFE pair of ramps to load your lawn tractor. For less than $25.00 and 1 hour of time. YOU can build a custom set for your truck. The pics and diagram are offered here absolutely FREE. Act now and be the first among your friends and neighbors to have a set. Patent pending :)LMAO

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metal(6)

Look great. It may be a good idea to add some non-skid traction tape to the tops? Just an idea.

    Bookmark   April 30, 2008 at 3:55PM
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lkbum_gw

Looks nice, but can you get the mower in without removing the deck?? Check out the link below, you may want to add an arch to those ramps.

Here is a link that might be useful: Arched Ramp pieces

    Bookmark   April 30, 2008 at 4:03PM
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tomhoffman(NE Iowa)

You might want to seriously look at the other ramps available at Norther Tool. Does it make sense to trust a 1 1/2" piece of lumber to hold your mower and possibly you too? I know you are not suppose to ride the mover when loading, but an awaful lot of people do.

I have a tri fold ramp from Northern Tool and it easily holds my 750 lb mower. I have trouble trusting the tail gate supports.

One of my neighbors tried to load his and one of the ramps collapesed under him, and he and the mower hit the ground with the mower rolling onto his legs.

Not fun.

    Bookmark   April 30, 2008 at 5:14PM
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rustyj14(W/PA)

Several years ago, i was at the local scrap yard, and saw a pile of aluminum bleacher seats, setting there, waiting to be cut up! I asked how much a pair of them would cost, and for $40 i got four seven foot seats. I bent one end down and reinforced it with some other aluminum, then drilled holes in the bent ends, inserted long bolts, 2 in each one, and drilled matching holes in my tail gate, with various width spacing. When ready to load, the bolts are slipped into the matching holes, and the ends set on the ground. (The other pair, i used to make a scooter ramp.)
My tail gate had the cables, but i replaced them with old Chevy truck folding steel tail gate brackets. I don't trust cables, especially with me on a tractor when loading or unloading heavfy things!
My truck is a '91 Ford Ranger, so drilling holes in the inner side of the tail gate didn't lower the value any, especially with over 170,000 miles on it.

    Bookmark   April 30, 2008 at 10:09PM
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like_my_yard(Central NC.)

I've loaded a LX289, X304 and LX280's with the decks on and the gauge wheels raised(42"). They were used to load several GT235's with the decks off, they had 48" decks and wouldn't fit between the wheel wells. They went on without a hitch. A couple of them also had the rear bagger assembly on. The ramps didn't sag any.

The 2X3's are glued and screwed to the 2X8's they are more stout than you would think. They've been used them to load other full size trucks but were only 2 wheel drive. On a heavy duty 4X4 they may not work.

After taking the "wait and see" method on a non skid surface and never losing traction, nothing was used. That may be something I will regret some day :)

    Bookmark   May 2, 2008 at 9:59AM
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metal(6)

All that is left is to paint them green & yellow!

    Bookmark   May 2, 2008 at 10:48AM
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