I have a Dixon 4421 that ran great last year, but now does not. The engine fires great, the deck kicks on fine but shuts off and stays off after a few minutes. Any suggestions?
I would check wiring. I would probably run jumper wires directly to the clutch by disconnecting the plug and jumping to it. IF clutch works OK, problem in your wiring, IF not, problem in clutch.
The clutch engages fine, but shuts off. If wiring was a problem wouldn't it not engage at all?
Without having a schematic handy, Walt's method isolates it to the PTO or NOT.
IF it's the PTO there are some tests that can be done to it.
You may have an Operator Presence Relay (or not) that might fail when warm and disconnect the circuit.
If you provide a ;link to the schematic.......
If you doubt the advice offered by Walt for some reason, consider this.
The PTO clutch is an electromagnet utilizing a coil of wire.
Passing electric current through the coil causes the coil to heat up, and that is a normal condition. The coil wiring may have a spot in it somewhere that separates after the coil heats up, and thus the coil ceases to be a magnet.
Isolating the clutch from the rest of the interlock circuitry will determine if it is the clutch, or something elsewhere.
If there are any control relays in the interlock circuits, those too utilize electromagnets to operate and are also susceptible to heating up and losing their function.
"Wiring" must be understood to encompass all the devices and components that make up the electrical system, not just simply a piece of wire.
might also check for a failing or undercharged battery - a PTO requires a fair amount of current to remain engaged...
A PTO requires about 4 AMPs or so.
IF the battery is strong enough to start the engine, capacity is not a problem.
"IF the battery is strong enough to start the engine, capacity is not a problem."
Bullhockey. Just last year had trouble with my PTO cutting out intermittently - fixed by replacing the failing battery (confirmed by load test) - and the machine would start even so.
Then you had other issues.
Still having trouble. Clutch is fine, cannot find problems with the wiring. I did discover my lights are not working either. I checked grounds, even connected another wire from the engine to the chassis to see if I was losing the ground. Suggestions?
***"Still having trouble. Clutch is fine, cannot find problems with the wiring."***
Does that mean you ran a separate jumper wire to the clutch from a battery hot source?
If you did run a separate wire to feed the clutch, and the problem persists, then you can't conclude that the clutch is "fine".
If you have not yet run a separate feed wire to the clutch from a battery hot source, then why your declaration that the clutch is fine?
What exactly have you done that exonerates the clutch as the culprit?
rcbe, did you check your battery for cracks?
Problem solved. As I said before, the clutch is fine was not the problem. Since the head lights went out at the same time I traced the wires back to were they met at a common spot. That spot was the ignition. The hot source for both comes off the ignition switch. Everything looked fine, but when I pulled the wiring harness off I noticed one of the retaining prongs was lower in the harness. I pushed it back up and glued it in. Bingo, everything working great!
Don't worry about me, roller girl... just don't quit your day job at MTD.