I have a /genie 1/2 HP model 2060L-07 garage door opener that won't close or open. The motor runs but the screw drive doesn't spin almost like it's striped.
Used for attaching the screw of Genie screw drive rail to the motor head. This coupler is made to break away if the door hits a hard obstruction, thereby protecting the motor. If the motor of the screw drive Genie runs, but the screw is not turning, this coupler needs replaced. For Genie's with split-rail screw drives, make sure you are looking at the rail screw nearest to the motor to determine the need for replacement. Part number is 3025T.
I have the same problem with the Genie garage door (series G, model 12A), in that the motor runs but the screw nearest the motor doesn't turn, but mine has another problem too. Even when the motor runs, most of the time it stops fairly quickly. Any ideas in addition to a broken coupler?
My 80s Sears chain driven openers problems are usually easily spotted as stripped plastic gears (with the 4 screw cover off). There are replacement kits for the DIY that are not hard to replace if you have tools/skills. This usually occurs when resistance is presence from PM needs and foundation/structure shifts.
I get the stopping on one door when it's freezing weather due to the resistance from weak springs the opener detects. I can increase up/down adjustment but usually leave as is due to it opening on the 2nd try or give it minor help.
Post a pic of where your openerÃ¢ÂÂs screw engages with your openerÃ¢ÂÂs motor (with the cover off if needed.
Where can I find Old School solid frame doors Ã¢ÂÂStretch SpringsÃ¢ÂÂ vs new panel doors (Ã¢ÂÂTorsion or ExtensionÃ¢ÂÂ)? My springs pull arms toward the floor to open my frame doors, Ã¢ÂÂon overhead tracksÃ¢ÂÂ (since 1968 W P/M).
I can attach a pic of the Sears plastic gear if that will help. Plus ck the ease of Ã¢ÂÂAllÃ¢ÂÂ doors opening W/O the help of the opener. This can explain the overload and problems due to weak springs.