Briggs & Stratton OHV Intek Hard Starting

dreamofthefloodApril 15, 2008

I am another of the seemingly many people fighting the hard starting problem with a Briggs & Stratton OHV Intek I/C engine (in my case, a 28N707 15.5 HP model). I have read many posts on the forum about adjusting the valves, and I have adjusted the valves. I have done this many times, but the engine continues to resist starting. I have watched the valves with the cover off, and both valves are moving strongly on their respective strokes. One thing I do not see is any kind of "bump" in the exhaust valve for the compression release. My understanding of the compression release for these engines is that it is driven by the exhaust lobe of the camshaft--that a small bump on the exhaust cam briefly lifts the exhaust valve during the compression stroke to relieve compression pressure. Am I correct? If so, mine isn't doing it. I have even tightened the exhaust rocker down until the exhaust valve is hanging slightly open and then turned the engine by hand. The valve moves strongly during the exhaust stroke, but otherwise not at all. I think this is my problem, but I don't know how to proceed from here.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Troy Hunt

Squalor, Austin, Texas

"That government is best which governs least." -- Thomas Jefferson

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rcmoser

My 17 hp ELS has been hard starting from the the got go. If I let it set over a couple of days I have to prime it with carb cleaner. I think it is a deaign issue and that's the way it is on mine.

    Bookmark   April 15, 2008 at 10:31PM
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bill_kapaun

If the valve is properly set with the piston 1/4" past TDC, then you should have negative clearance at TDC.
Insert a .001" smaller feeler gauge than what you set the valves at. It should "pinch down" on the feeler gauge when going through TDC.
I'm not sure if it's always the exhaust valve??? You might check both.

1 Like    Bookmark   April 15, 2008 at 10:51PM
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tomplum

Follow Bill's note to the letter. If, after that you still have an issue- you will likely need a cam and a gasket set. The cam has also been re-designed. Not common, but it happens.

    Bookmark   April 15, 2008 at 11:16PM
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techdave(SoCal)

some briggs needed a cam, if you set the valves right and you dont get a CR bump of the valve the cam is broken.

Back the engine up by had so it gets a full tow reve run up to tdc, or chang ethe cam.

    Bookmark   April 16, 2008 at 2:01AM
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walt2002

"One thing I do not see is any kind of "bump" in the exhaust valve for the compression release. My understanding of the compression release for these engines is that it is driven by the exhaust lobe of the camshaft--that a small bump on the exhaust cam briefly lifts the exhaust valve during the compression stroke to relieve compression pressure. Am I correct"

NO. The compression release is an arm on the cam gear that keeps the INTAKE valve from closing completely until late into the compression stroke at cranking speeds to relieve some compression. When the engine starts, this arm swings out of the way.

In some instances, there is a bur somewhere in the cam arm ass'y that keeps the arm from working, sometimes the spring breaks, sometimes the arm comes off.

Some have cam lobe problems but it doesn't sound like yours does.

Are you sure you are following proper procedure in adjusting the valves?

I have detailed instructions IF you want them.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at verizon dot net (put in proper format)

    Bookmark   April 16, 2008 at 8:44AM
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dreamoftheflood

I would be glad to have the detailed valve adjustment instructions (troy at troyhunt dot net), but I'm pretty certain by now that I have a problem with the compression release. I got out there tonight and put a dial indicator on the tips of both rocker arms and turned the engine by hand. I'm getting no movement whatsoever out of the intake rocker after the primary intake valve event has finished. The intake rocker is stationary throughout the compression stroke, with the intake adjusted with proper lash, and even with the rocker adjustment overtightened so there is no valve lash on the intake at any point. Is there any way this could simply be the result of valve adjustment? If not, can anybody point me to a detailed procedure for removing the camshaft? Please tell me that I won't have to pull this blasted engine again.

Thanks.

Troy Hunt
Squalor, Austin, Texas
"That government is best which governs least." -- Thomas Jefferson

    Bookmark   April 16, 2008 at 9:47PM
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rwillette_YAHOO_COM

would like detail instructions if anybody has them for a b&s 18 hp intek engine. hard cranking unless spark plug is out.

    Bookmark   May 3, 2008 at 8:51PM
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bill_kapaun

Walt leaves his email address about 3 posts up.
You have to contact him first, so he can just paste them in a reply.

    Bookmark   May 3, 2008 at 9:04PM
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fivestring

I have a Cub Cadet ZRT42 mower with an Intek 17hp Briggs motor and had the same problem of hard starting.

I read alot of threads trying to find the answer and read severalposts that recommended valve adjusting but I thought my mower ran just fine when I was able to get it started (using an elec drill with a socket on the top flywheel bolt to assist the poor starter)so I blew off adjusting the valves.

Bought a brand new starter and stuck it on. SAME PROBLEM! AARRGGHH!!! More searching the internet for the answer. Thought I had a bad compression release mechanism for sure.

I saw how easily I could access the valves and decided to go ahead and check them. They needed adjusted alright. I turned both nuts in about a half turn each to get them to .004-.006. I thought, "No way is this the problem", but I reassembled it and hit the key and don't ya know that sucker started up like a new one! I tried it two more times and each time it fired right up.

Wish I would have tried the valve adjust before I dropped $84 on a new starter. I have the original starter on now and it's fine.

Just F.Y.I.

fivestring

    Bookmark   May 21, 2008 at 3:59PM
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vitagreg

I am experiencing the same indications of no compression release on my 14.5 hp ic ohv engine. A repairman had suggested this was the problem some time ago when I had to buy a starter relay which had fried.
Can the valves on my engine be adjusted?
What is the procedure?
Where is the cam located so I can inspect it?
Any help will be appreciated.

    Bookmark   June 24, 2008 at 11:43AM
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walt2002

For instructions of adjusting valves, see my post above. You have to remove the oil sump to get to the cam shaft but I wouldn't bother that unless you have reason the think a cam lobe is worn. Both valve push rods should move about the same amount when you turn the engine.IF one of them doesn't move or move much, then perhaps bad cam shaft.

Walt Conner

    Bookmark   June 24, 2008 at 6:00PM
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madcowboy

OMG! I had the exact same problem as fivestring but I melted off the neg posts on 2 batteries trying to get it to start, not to mention the 2 weeks of charging batteries, swapping starters and kicking parts across the yard in frustration all because the exhaust valve needed to be tightened 1/4 of a turn. I wonder how many mower repair shops are raping people for new starters and batteries with this 10 second fix here. This is pure BS.

It comes as no suprise for briggs & stratton tho. They are just a big corporation now, worried more about the bottom line than quality of the product. Them buying a bankrupt Murray corp is proof of that.

    Bookmark   October 11, 2008 at 11:44PM
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luism

i just bought a john deere snowblower with a 20m114 type 0133e1 code 080521yd engine from briggs, it had few issues that delear fixed but still not happy. the engine now like pops firework sound when like starting it second time. then it has to crank it a few times for it to turn over. they replaced the cam cause it went in for hard to start hand cable. now i also get a diff noise in muffler after stoped. puff puff sound. could this be bad adjustments?

    Bookmark   January 31, 2009 at 9:59AM
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tomplum

It could be the adjustments. I assume that this is under warranty yet. Have them repair it.

    Bookmark   January 31, 2009 at 11:12AM
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walt2002

"It comes as no suprise for briggs & stratton tho. They are just a big corporation now, worried more about the bottom line than quality of the product. Them buying a bankrupt Murray corp is proof of that."

It always helps if you read the owner's manual. They tell you there to check the valve adjustment once a year.

Walt Conner

    Bookmark   January 31, 2009 at 11:55AM
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bill_kapaun

"They are just a big corporation now, worried more about the bottom line than quality of the product."
Then buy a Tecumseh! OOPS! Apparently TEC didn't watch their "bottom line"!

"Them buying a bankrupt Murray corp is proof of that."
Murray owed Briggs a lot of money when they went bankrupt. Briggs simply tried to recover some value in order to watch their "bottom line".

Any more "Pearls of Wisdom"?

    Bookmark   January 31, 2009 at 4:45PM
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serviceman47

Can't seem to find the right place to set the valves to get this 14.5 HP Briggs to start. I can how ever get it to start every time by the rocking method, i raise the hood and hit the switch and release the switch after several hits it will overcome the compression problem and fire right up, But it is kinda hard to get someone else to do this and it work for them.So i would love to have the detailed instructions as to how to properly set the valves.
my email is kkillett@juno.com

    Bookmark   July 5, 2009 at 6:26PM
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mownie(7)

And we would love for you to provide the model number and type number of your particular 14.5 HP Briggs engine.

    Bookmark   July 5, 2009 at 6:53PM
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tony321gee123

replaced starter, solenoid, battery, checked all safety switches-all working fine, new relay switch and still cannot get engine to crank up. not even a rev from the starter, just a click when turning on the key. Click comes from solenoid kicking in but no grind to start engine. starter gets very hot after turning key 9 or 10 times trying to get starter to kick in. what in hell is the problem, machine is 3 yeras old.

    Bookmark   August 8, 2009 at 11:18PM
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mownie(7)

It would be a great help if you would provide some real information about the machine in question. Brand of tractor with model number of tractor. Brand of engine with model number and other engine numbers (like "type #" or "spec #"). Have you removed the spark plugs from the engine to see if the starter will spin the engine with plugs out (plugs out means no compression load)? By the starter "getting hot" we can presume that everything right up to the starter is performing "as planned". Removing the plugs and then trying spin the engine with the starter could possibly expel some volume of gasoline out the spark plug holes. This would indicate that the engine was "hydro locked" by gasoline leaking into the cylinders from the fuel system. If this is what you find, DO NOT use the engine until you have changed the engine lube oil and filter and repaired the leaky carburetor and installed an inline fuel cut off valve (and you were expecting a miracle?). Also, if you plan to pursue ANY of the suggestions, please create a new thread of your own so it is easier to focus on your issue alone. Thanks.

    Bookmark   August 9, 2009 at 2:05AM
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gejandsons

My wife's Uncle is having all the same problems. B&S is ruining the so so reputation they had. They are inline with tecumseh now. Kohler is king

    Bookmark   March 17, 2010 at 9:55PM
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rustyj14(W/PA)

I suppose, if your car needed the valves adjusted once a year, you would just not do it, nor pay to have it done, then when the valves finally rebelled and it wouldn't start, you would blame the makers of the car!? Oh, yeah!

    Bookmark   March 17, 2010 at 11:10PM
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equinox_grow

So far so good with the 18.5 horse thats on my Craftsman Lawn Tractor. My only problem is sometimes when you turn it off it bangs through the muffler. The Kawasaki in the older John Deere 165 tractor I have never does this. I dont mind the Briggs and Strattons I have. They have served me well. Cant help but think though the Kawasaki that is on the John Deere is quite a bit better though.

    Bookmark   March 18, 2010 at 4:11AM
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walt2002

"Kohler is king"

Some have said you have to have "courage" in order to own a Kohler Courage.

Walt Conner

    Bookmark   March 18, 2010 at 2:56PM
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tonymadrid

I have a John Deere LA140 Automatic that has a B&S 23HP OHV with the same problem, trouble cranking. I pulled the plugs and it spins just fine, but with the plugs in it seems that the starter meets too much compression resistance to sufficiently crank enough to start. A local small engine repairman suggested that the valves needed to be adjusted. Could someone please provide me with the correct procedure for adjusting the valves?

    Bookmark   April 2, 2010 at 8:19AM
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walt2002

Email me at address below, put in proper format, be sure and send your model number again as I have lots of requests and a poor memory.

Walt Conner
wconer5 at verizon dot net

    Bookmark   April 2, 2010 at 7:48PM
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theoldstyle

I have been reading up on my hard starting Briggs 17hp Intek...in the Garden Web forums. It runs great...when I jump start the new battery to get it going so I have high hopes that I can adjust the valves & that will fix the problem. Can you explain the proper valve adj. procedure... or send a link? I believe my Model # is...407777... Type...0124-E1 (I think). Its on a 1999 175 LT White rider mower.

    Bookmark   April 8, 2010 at 11:25PM
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theoldstyle

ohh by the way... I cannot email you directly... your verizon is rejecting me...

    Bookmark   April 8, 2010 at 11:32PM
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walt2002

"your verizon is rejecting me..."

Probably because of my poor typing.

wconner5 at verizon dot net

    Bookmark   April 9, 2010 at 8:45AM
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theoldstyle

Just to let you & everyone else know... I studied a bit... took it upon myself to adjust the valves... unbelievable! A simple 1/4 turn valve adjustment would make that much difference. It now starts right up... cold or hot... and they were soooo easy to get to. I feel sorry for the people who take their machine to a shop because of this problem... which is why ( I think ) I got this machine so cheap... I even got the snowplow blade with it! The guy told me that his shop quoted him a $350 price to fix it.
Honestly, I am still in dis-belief & shocked that it was so easy to fix (knocks on wood).
Thank you all for your help!

    Bookmark   April 10, 2010 at 10:05AM
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clangez_optonline_net

I garbage picked a bolens 42" 17hp mower. It has a briggs model# 31c707 type 0154e1 code 030514zd.
It has no battery, i jumped it but the starter only turned until it hit compresion. I took the starter a part and one of the strands was broken and riding on the magnets! I did a quick fix but i know i still need a starter. 1st i was able to get it to spin while turning the key, now i can only get it to spin when i hook jumpers directly to the starter. Is the solinoid bad?
After i got it started by means of a drill the exhaust pipe got cherry red! Will the valve adjustment fix that? To adjust them i remove the valve cover and every thing is there? Thanks Chris

    Bookmark   April 22, 2010 at 10:54AM
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mownie(7)

***"To adjust them i remove the valve cover and every thing is there?"***
Everything in the above is true, but that is not the entire procedure in a nutshell. There is a specific procedure you must follow or you will not get good results.

    Bookmark   April 22, 2010 at 1:43PM
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gregnmichele_ellijay_com

I have a 2002 B&S ohv Intek on a Troybilt 42" lawn tractor. This spring when I pulled it out it would not turn over at all. I then tried to jump start the engine. The starter engaged but would not turn the engine over. I then tried to jump start the engine directly at the starter (thinking I may have a bad connection)and this did not work. Although the starter did engage and sounded storng the engine only turned over very slowly and did not complete a full cycle. Is this something a valve adjustment will fix or is the engine locked down? Is there an easy way to check If a valve adjustment will work? If it is in need of a valve job does anyone have specs and instructions? I have long since lost the manual and grow very tired of pushing the 3 acre mountain I live on.

    Bookmark   April 28, 2010 at 10:24AM
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walt2002

" Is there an easy way to check If a valve adjustment will work? If it is in need of a valve job does anyone have specs and instructions?"

Detailed instructions at address below, put in proper format.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at verizon dot net

    Bookmark   April 28, 2010 at 9:49PM
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herothc

Mine started to backfireafter shuting off and yesterday it would not start back up after it backfired while starting. Sdjusted valves that the top valve was way out off adjustment, no start.It seems to crank over TOO easy spinning really fast when it did not do so before. Took the camshaft out to inspect and it looked perfect.After removing the camshaft Irealized tht I did not mark were it was so I reserched the timing and found that I needed to line up the two dots, one on cam gear and one on crank gear and Ihope this was right! So after all that and re-adjusting the valves it does the same thing! I need help and any advice would be appreciated. Thans in advanced.
Heath

    Bookmark   July 14, 2010 at 9:57PM
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mownie(7)

Heath, please create a new thread of your own for this issue you are having.
And include vital data about your tractor and engine.
We need to know the brand and full model number of the tractor (this is usually under the seat or the hood).
If you have a Briggs & Stratton engine, post the engine model number (6 digits) and the engine type number (6 digits). These numbers will be on the engine itself and will be labeled just like I described.
Your engine may not have needed a valve adjustment and if you did not follow the exact Briggs valve adjustment procedure, you might even have caused some more problems.
Once we know what tractor/engine you have and what you did to check adjust valves, we can determine what the problem is.
Your problem sounds like your engine might have ejected the exhaust valve seat, hence the "too loose" condition of the upper valve and the fact that the engine seemed to spin too easily.
Numbers please in a new thread.

    Bookmark   July 15, 2010 at 12:45AM
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marksummers_windstream_net

For those experiencing backfiring after shutting off engine, I have found letting the engine idle for 15 seconds or so before switching the key off eliminates that nasty POP after it stops running. The idle time gives the engine a chance to use up any excess gas in the system when coming off a higher rpm.

My wife, on the other hand, always stops the mower, locks the brakes, drops the throttle from high rpm to idle and immediately turns the key off and every time it will backfire after a few seconds.

    Bookmark   August 5, 2010 at 11:08AM
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ewalk

Pre-Ignition "Run on Scenario" Your Solution is Sound ! Especially with Today's Low Compression Engines .

    Bookmark   August 5, 2010 at 3:43PM
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poulanmac

Here is my take on this hard starting problem:
If you don't understand the postings here by Bill and Walt and the others. Find a dependable small engine repair shop and have them do some work for you. I know a good repairman that has the opinion that if you have to go deeper than a valve adjustment, pushrod or head gasket replacement that the engine is not worth the cost to repair, overhaul (price shop labor and new repair parts) then find a used engine, he does high volume work, he is always on the lookout for used mowers that some widow or hobbist "farmer" has for sale $100 to $300 after they bought a new mower because their "old" one won't start, sometimes it is the battery, battery cables, water in the carb or trash in the fuel tank, sometimes it is the SEARS, LOWES or HOME DEPOT long term "Service, parts & Labor" contract "Tech" that messed up the mower.

My friend always has twenty or thirty good used mowers for parts. As for me I do my own work, I have a lot of tools and engine experiance, even though most of it is not with small engines, I am learning...and ocassionally come here or to another site for advise. these guys here are good! Listen and learn....There are videos on UTube that show and tell how to do small engine repairs. Spending time here on the WWW is not always "Time Wasted!" if you go to the right places

    Bookmark   August 7, 2010 at 11:44AM
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cableman

Adjusted the valves like you guys said to and installed the missing fan/screen on top of the fly wheel. Runs like a champ! Thanks for all the help :)

    Bookmark   August 10, 2010 at 8:28AM
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bon8699

I've got 2 riding tractors with the exact same engine.It's Briggs & Stratton 14.5 OHV I/C Quiet.The first mower we bought it new in 1992 or 93.It has ran good and had a valve job done on it 4 years ago and thats it.Its ran great except for every time I start it I have to put gas down the carb.My Dad said it may just need the valves adjusted.But the problem i'm having now happened after I accidently ran over our dog chain.It broke the shaft that runs the blade and broke the pully under that runs the belt connected to the bottom of the motor.This has a brand new deck with brand new pully system and blades.My Dad and I replaced all that and the power started up like it always did and I went to mow.The mower shut off in the middle of my first lap around the yard and hasn't started since.Our problem is no fire at all.Having another mower exactly like ours makes trouble shooting pretty easy.But,still can't get no fire.

Both coils get fire - tested on other mower but wont fire on ours.

Took the ignition switch off and tested it on ours with no luck.

The flywheel magnets on ours are very strong.

All grounds check out and are good.

I am stumped on this and don't know what to try next.Am I missing something simple?
--------------------------------------------------------
On the second mower it is having the hard start issue probably from sitting a year.My question is do the valves need tightened?If so,can I start with a quarter turn on each and work from there to get this thing to run.

My grass is like a foot high and i've got 2 acres to mow.

Here is a link that might be useful: Mopar Madness

    Bookmark   October 13, 2010 at 8:38AM
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bill_kapaun

On the 1st mower, check for a sheared flywheel key.

    Bookmark   October 16, 2010 at 6:23PM
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zabella

21 HP Briggs & Stratton ELS Twin OHV in a Husky Lawn tractor. Have oil leaking from one of the fins on cylinder head. No real compression loss to speak of but I still suspect head gasket. I am a novice and am having trouble figuring out how to remove valve springs. They do not look like keyhole retainers. Do I need a spring compressor and are the retainers the auto type that have to be taken out with a special tool? I need to get the head off replace head gasket and need to remove valve springs and valves (I think)any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks

    Bookmark   October 19, 2010 at 9:49PM
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tomplum

" I need to get the head off replace head gasket and need to remove valve springs and valves (I think)" Best to ask that question ahead of time. In short, no leave the valve springs on the valve. You should either remove the rocker or push down on the spring end so the push rod can be removed. Put the rod back in and set the valve lash after torquing the head back down. I suggest starting a new thread and posting model and type #s if you need more help. You may want to pull the shrouding to get a good look at the leak so that you perform the correct repair.

    Bookmark   October 19, 2010 at 10:08PM
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denisnb

I had the exact same problem on my 28n707. I had adjusted the valves many times insuring a .oo4 on intake and .006 on exhaust. I continued to have compression release problem. I finally adjusted the intake a 1/4 turn more toward .003 and lo and behold the thing fired up like a new one. I guess the .003 to .005 was a range, not a absolute.

    Bookmark   November 4, 2010 at 11:21AM
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mownie(7)

***"I guess the .003 to .005 was a range, not a absolute."***
OR.......it may reflect a number of variables including the accuracy of the feeler gauges used and the ability of the user to feel the correct clearance. Not chiding here, just saying that there is required a certain degree of experience with the "basic type" of plain feeler gauges.
"Stepped", or "Go-No GO" feeler gauges are better for a novice, but most would balk at the cost of this type gauge.
A dial indicator can be used instead of feeler gauges, but here again, cost and complexity could be a drawback.

    Bookmark   November 4, 2010 at 1:05PM
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Mikewfox_gmail_com

I have a 14.5 ohv bs l/c quiet model#287707 type 1272_e1. I have replaces starter,solenoid,batt. And still cant this thing to start. When I put it up at end of season it was fine ,but now cant start it with all new parts. It has power all the way to starter but not enough power to turn mower maybe to much compression, but I removed spark plug and same thing the starter engages to motor but cant turn over any suggestions?

    Bookmark   March 26, 2011 at 2:50PM
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mownie(7)

If it still does not spin the engine with the spark plug out, I think it's safe to safe that compression does not have a role in your problem.
Have you tried to turn the engine by hand with the spark plug out?
If you are unable to turn the engine by hand with the spark plug out, something really bad has happened to the engine.
Try turning the engine by hand. See if it will turn either direction.
If the engine turns a bit in either direction and then stops, you need to pull the valve cover and inspect for something wrong there first.

    Bookmark   March 26, 2011 at 4:50PM
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David_Entercomp_com

I had a similar problem on my yardman. I turned it on it's side to replace the blade. When I turned it back over I tried to start it. The starter bumped but would not spin the engine. After reading this post I took the plug out and had some oil come out. I tried the starter and the engine turned over fine spitting some more oil out. I decided to leave the plug out for a couple of days and try it again. What do you guys think?

    Bookmark   March 27, 2011 at 6:16PM
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mownie(7)

If you have already spun the engine with the plug removed, and expelled the oil from the cylinder, it is safe to try cranking the engine to see if it will start. You might need to clean the oil off the spark plug (or just buy a new one) as oil fouled spark plugs can sometimes have trouble tossing a spark across the plug air gap. Make sure the oil level is up where it should be.
And........expect a good deal of blue smoke out the exhaust until all the oil gets burned out of the muffler.

    Bookmark   March 27, 2011 at 7:03PM
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joesloop_hotmail_com

I need the valve adjustment procedure. I am experienced in adjusting VWs and Fiats....should be able to do a Briggs--I hope!

BUT, Walt, your email keeps rejecting me. ... wconner5 at verizon dot net (correct format of course).

I have an 18 hp ohv Intek, Family Y: YBSXS.5012.VP on a Craftsman LT1000 model #917.273396 electric start 42" ridiing mower.
Thanks,
Joe

    Bookmark   April 4, 2011 at 3:49PM
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mownie(7)

Walt' new e-mail is
wconner5 at frontier dot com (usual format rules of course).
Sorry Walt, I hope you don't mind.

    Bookmark   April 4, 2011 at 4:10PM
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gardennutjoe

Thanks for Walt's new address Mowie!

But I got it done. The first time I looked at it I didn't find the lock screw. I'm used to seeing lock-nuts. But when I found it was a screw in the end of the shaft I adjusted the valves and it starts and runs great! Thanks for all the info.

Joe

    Bookmark   April 4, 2011 at 11:43PM
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ben_trailgraphics_com

This thread got me pointed in the right direction... Just as I was about to send Walt an email, came across this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjzX-PUjKmo
Fixed! Thanks for the help folks!

Here is a link that might be useful: B&S Valve Adjustment Video

    Bookmark   April 17, 2011 at 5:02PM
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sleblanc567_gmail_com

I have a Briggs & Stratton 14hp OHV model No.287707 Type.1224-E1 Engine, Yard machines tractor. It was running running a little rough so thought I'd give it some TLC. Took the fly wheel off not knowing it didn't have points and condensers. Didn't knock the Ignition module at all. Went to fire tractor back up, it keeps spinning but won't start. It "Pops" out of the air filter like it is back-firing. New spark plug too, even placed a spark plug tester to make sure Plug is receiving power and it is. Ran fine before, wasn't a LOT of fuel in the tank and it was stale, but just doesn't seem to want to Lite. Try a different brand of spark plug and fresh fuel? Never had these troubles and figures try to give it TLC to run better and now won't start.. Any suggestions appreciated!

    Bookmark   April 26, 2011 at 12:03AM
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mownie(7)

Sounds to me like you used improper technique to remount the flywheel and its key, and probably did not torque the flywheel retainer nut enough. So the engine is now out of time, and may have sheared the flywheel key.
Use only a genuine Briggs key for this.
Proper way to remount flywheel and key: Wipe the crankshaft flywheel tapers with clean cloths, do not oil the tapers.
Carefully set the flywheel down on the crankshaft and align keyways in crank and flywheel.
Very carefully insert the key into the keyway, you can jiggle the flywheel a little here if it helps. When the key is started into the keyway, gently tap the key to help it seat. You can stop when the key is just flush with the flywheel surface, or just 1/16" above it.
Place washer (if used) and nut on the crankshaft and torque the nut to 100 foot pounds.

    Bookmark   April 26, 2011 at 1:10AM
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taffybuffytag_yahoo_com

need procedure on how to adjust valve and how to tell which is the intake and exhaust

model---287707

type---015301

code---9305064a

    Bookmark   May 2, 2011 at 3:08PM
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rcbe(6)

see link

Here is a link that might be useful: B&S Valve Adjustment Video

    Bookmark   May 2, 2011 at 4:38PM
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b_lmorphis_yahoo_com

I recently worked on my neighbor's Intek engine with the same problems. I have to agree with the Kholer fans. I have a Snapper mower and a Husky mower with Kholer Command engines. One is about 20 years old and the other about 13 years old, both have OHV. I haven't had to adjust either of them. Simply change oil and filters.

    Bookmark   May 31, 2011 at 1:07AM
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robradatz97_yahoo_com

14.5 ohv b&s motor.Got it for free cuse it wouldnt turn over.Installed new battery and a couple taps on the starter and it turns over.It is backfiring LOUD out of the carb.I cleaned the carb and pulled the valve cover off and seen nothing visually wrong.Whats next?

    Bookmark   June 20, 2011 at 11:44PM
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mownie(7)

It's always best (and courteous) to include the specific engine model number AND type number taken from the engine itself.
But, you say it is OHV and that a look under the valve cover shows nothing obviously wrong.
With the backfiring it will pay to remove the flywheel and check for a sheared key.
If key is found sheared, use only a genuine Briggs key to replace it.
Flywheel must be torqued to 100 foot pounds or it will soon shear again.

    Bookmark   June 21, 2011 at 1:08AM
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kmc24_hotmail_com

Briggs 17hp Turbo-Cooled Intek 311707 0132-E3 00040426

The flywheel, on the above engine, isn't retained by a nut...the top of the crankshaft is tapped and the f'wheel is retained by a bolt/washer.

The top of the crankshaft is inset, somewhat, and lies about half-an-inch below the top face of the f'wheel boss.

If I were to follow the above instructions, and insert the key flush, or above the face of the f'wheel, the bolt/washer would push the key down, flush with the face of the f'wheel.

In either case, the key would be only partially located in the f'wheel groove ( about 1/4 of the key).

So, shoud the key be pushed down flush with the top of the crankshaft?

Isn't 100 ft lbs rather a lot of force? Does this torque figure apply to an engine with the BOLT, as opposed to a nut?

Thank you for any information or suggestions you may make.

    Bookmark   June 30, 2011 at 1:09AM
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mownie(7)

Briggs shows the same key part # is used across a wide range of engines, but some IPLs show the number as 222698 while others show it as 222698S or 222698s).
The IPL for the 311700 series lists it as 222698s. I don't know if there is a difference in the length of the key depending on whether the part # has the s suffix or not.
I don't recommend you try to seat the key flush to the bottom of the recessed pocket, it wouldn't stay there even if you could get it down that far with nothing to capture it.
Might be a good idea to e-mail Briggs on this aspect of the operation.
They have a "contact us" provision at their web site.
Also, it appears that all 31 series engines use a bolt to secure the flywheel, but the torque chart refers to "flywheel NUT", so I'm thinking perhaps the term nut is simply a "hold over" from other applications.
Whether the threads are internal or external does not matter, the diameter of the threads is what counts.
If the threaded portion of the bolt measures to be 1/2" (or approx 12mm), the torque spec of 100 ft. lb. will apply.

    Bookmark   June 30, 2011 at 11:06AM
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waterwheelman

I have a Craftsman riding mower with a 18.5 hp Intek Plus engine, model 31P777, Type 0348E1, Code 040310ZE.
I have adjusted the valves .04 and .06 but still can't get the engine to turn over enough to fire. When it finally does turn one complete cycle, it backfires through the carb. I don't know, maybe I'm adjusting incorrectly - It's seems difficult to determine what is 1/4" beyond TDC.
I also suspect the compression release is not working correctly but I don't how to check it.

Any help would be appreciated

jgordon@centurytel.net

    Bookmark   September 30, 2011 at 2:32AM
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mownie(7)

E-mail sent.
If further help is needed, PLEASE CREATE A NEW THREAD.
This thread is getting too populated to serve as a discussion platform now.

    Bookmark   September 30, 2011 at 9:58AM
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mownie(7)

Well, I sent e-mail and got a delivery failure notice.
Send me an e-mail if you want my outline on Briggs valve adjustment.
Use the forum member profile to get my e-mail address.

    Bookmark   September 30, 2011 at 10:23AM
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dbkh(Zone 7-8)

FYI: In response to one of the first posts in this thread.
Apparently some cams are designed to have a small "open" bump in the exhaust valve just after the intake valve closes on the compression stroke. As seen in this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fbj4wk5YbnY
Don't know if this is on cam or a CR arm.

Here is a link that might be useful: Link

    Bookmark   October 5, 2011 at 12:15PM
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brkndown1(5)

Howdy, I've been reading this forum, and it sounds like I may have a similar problem as some of you have mentioned. I've got a cub cadet with a 21 hp intek model 331877-0036 type G1 code 1012282D. The mower shop I bought it from said the engine only has 6 hours on it. It does look new, but I've only used it about 3 hours and now I'm having trouble starting it. It sounds like it may need the valves adjusted, as it will turn over with the plug out, but barely cranks with it in. Does anyone have a manual or any helpful advice on whether this is something I could tackle?
I'm fairly good at fixing things, I used to rebuild pumps for a living and have done a lot of my own mechanical work.
My e-mail is sra4137@netzero.com Thanks if you can help

    Bookmark   June 15, 2012 at 6:43PM
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marcobee

i recently purchased a used Murray riding lawn mower...it worked awesome with no problems i stored it for 3 weeks...i quick jump (battery died due to weather)...and started right up...BUT I DID NOTICE WHEN I STARTED it, THE ENGINE I SAW SPLASH OF LIQUID SHOT OUT OF THE FRONT (NEAR SPARK PLUG AREA...
i stopped and attempted to restart...it started..no problem...ran for about 10 minutes on med idle....then i started to mow, when after 15 minutes...started to struggle then white smoke then off......i waited a few minutes, started after 5 minutes white smoke and OFF...
in the past i had that problem, someone said to check oil take some out....and it was fine.....now the oil level was fine....but i noticed my muffler or the exhaust pipe (which is LOUD) was pretty much off (couldnt tell cause because heat shield was holding it in place- didnt have tools with me to check it out...would this be a problem for oil residue coming out? and wite smoke and turning off?
need some help on this....
i thank you all in advance for any idea how to tackle this ...thanks again!!!!!!

    Bookmark   October 22, 2012 at 7:37PM
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Red01

OK here we go.
I run a small engine repair shop and have run into this problem on both Kohler and B+S engines.
If its a gravity feed fuel tank as opposed to a fuel pump system check the oil level. If the oil level is way up the dipstick you have fuel leaking into the cylinder and you can't compress liquid. remove the spark plug and crank the engine, do not stand in front of the engine as you may get sprayed with gas. If this is the problem replace the needle valve and seat [if applicable] in the carb and install a fuel shutoff in the gas line. Change the oil and filter and make sure you shut the fuel off after each use.
If this is not the problem remove the valve cover and check the valves and rocker arm studs for looseness while the piston is at top dead center of the compression stroke. If one or both are loose remove both rocker arms and remove both push rods to see if one or both are bent due to backfiring. Do not mix them up when reinstalling as the exhaust pushrod is steel and the intake is aluminum. If all is well reinstall and adjust the valves as follows. Turn engine COUNTERCLOCKWISE with a long rod or screwdriver inserted in the spark plug hole until the piston is at TDC, continue turning counter clockwise until the piston is 1/4 inch below TDC. This disengages the decompression mechanism.
Loosen the torx set screws located in the rocker arm nuts, adjust valve lash to engine specs with a feeler gage and tighten the set screws to torque specs,
crank the engine to see if this has solved the hard starting problem ,if it has ,reinstall valve cover your done.
hope this helps ,
Red

    Bookmark   December 12, 2013 at 10:43AM
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mownie(7)

All good info except about how push rods get bent.
Neither backfire nor afterfire will bend push rods.
Push rods get bent when there is a mechanical obstruction to movement in the valve train.
Obstruction to movement may be due to a valve seat coming out of its bore, a valve guide coming out of its bore, or when a valve sticks to its valve guide allowing the push rod to get caught on the edge of the rocker arm ball or cup.

    Bookmark   December 12, 2013 at 11:55AM
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bill_kapaun

You can usually tell somebody just signed up when you see year+ old threads surface.

    Bookmark   December 12, 2013 at 3:55PM
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wheely_boy

At least someone came here yesterday and posted something. Time to go back to the Vidalia Onion Forum.

    Bookmark   December 13, 2013 at 4:45AM
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zxcvsteve

hello guys, I have a husky with a
tractor with a briggs intek 18.5 motor.only two years old. it will turn over but wont fire. I took the plug out and sprayed some pb blaster small engine tune up spray in there and it will run on that till its gone. I have the air cover off and when I turn it over gas sprays out where the air should go in. What does that mean? any ideas? thanks

    Bookmark   September 20, 2014 at 6:21PM
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tomplum

zxcv, you should really start an new thread w/ proper engine #s .Seeing as though it wants to run w/ the presents of your cleaner, it could be water/ debris in the carb, no fuel or a funky anti backfire solenoid. If it really isn't running, just kind of making noise/ backfiring it could mean that you have a rocker issue, loose exhaust seat or sheared flywheel key.

    Bookmark   September 21, 2014 at 7:14PM
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crw9(10a)

Can you still operate a briggs 24 hp mower with a blown exhaust valve? Noisy but still runs,154 hrs. And 8 years old don't know whether to fix or buy new.

    Bookmark   September 30, 2014 at 7:06AM
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Roger Ogden

Hey Gents, Ive been all over the web and on forums hopefully this will be the wnd of the maddness haha.. Anyhow i have an LT1018 CUB CADET with the 18.5 ELS 500 B&S. MODEL# 13AL11CG712.. i am looking for a SRM OR WORKSHOP MANUAL either or IF their is any differance, already have the IPL but i am wanting to do a complete rebuild of the motor.. Already have most of the New OEM parts to get me started just looking for repair manual now... I can be reached at ogden1371@gmail.com or rgrusmc1371@gmail.com

Any help or input would be greatly greatly appreciated.. Thank You

Fallujah Vet

    Bookmark   February 10, 2015 at 7:29PM
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