Question about rebuilding a 10 year old Homelite trimmer

Homechicken(7b/metro-Atlanta)August 6, 2011

Well its not a complete rebuild, I'm just replacing gaskets, primer bulb, fuel lines and filter. The gaskets (crankcase, cylinder head, etc.) have what looks to be a red sealant around them. Should I use a gasket sealant on them or is this red stuff just a pre-applied sealer. I'm not messing with the carb other than to replace the gasket where it attaches to the engine and replacing the primer bulb. I don't want to rebuild the carb until I know for sure I have to. I started tinkering with the engine when it died a few weeks ago and discovered the primer bulb had a small hole in it and every time I pressed it I got gas all over my finger. I also noticed a lot of the bolts were loose, the cylinder head bolts were loose enough to easily turn by hand with a star bit driver. The crankcase bolts were not very tight, and so on. I think between the primer bulb and the loose bolts, that may have been the whole trouble. Oh, I'm replacing the spark plug also, it still has the original one. I've done nothing to this thing in the 10 years I've owned it except change the air filter and make sure I ran it dry of gas after each use so none was sitting in the carb. I guess considering that, its held up like a champ.

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rcmoser

Red stuff is probably locktite? or outside chance high temp RTV? Yes you occassionally have to tighten up loose mounting hardware After you get all the air out of the fuel system it will probably run like new?. Those are easy to work on and you have plenty of spare parts if you look out at the curve for discarded ones. Usually thats all they need good going over. I got several I pulled out of the trash, cleaned them up and sold them at garage sales. Got few more hanging around. I like the red ones, but several brands are the same.

    Bookmark   August 6, 2011 at 7:47PM
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loger_gw

1. "Should I use a gasket sealant on them or is this red stuff just a pre-applied sealer". My 1st guess would be a Hi-Heat Silicone/RTV, 2nd, Loctite if close to threads.

2. Will torque be a concern? I doubt you will strip the threads with a med ratchet snuging pattern. I tried a quick search of inch lb torque to compare your torque to with no luck.

A Good Project & Good Luck!! loger

    Bookmark   August 7, 2011 at 10:47AM
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Homechicken(7b/metro-Atlanta)

Thanks for the input. Yes, that's exactly what it looks like, about an 1/8th inch wide bead of silicone around the openings. Torque specs are anywhere from 4 ft/lbs and up to 10 ft/lbs on the cyllinder head. Fortunately the parts diagrams I downloaded off the Homelite part supplier's website give the torque values for the items that need specific torque. Now I just have to go buy a few Torx head sockets to use on my torque wrench. I would have sworn I had a set of them, but all I can find are my standard sockets and Allen head sockets.

    Bookmark   August 7, 2011 at 11:35AM
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loger_gw

Please share the link to the torque specs. I would have guessed the small torques would have been given in inch lbs vs ft lbs.

Examples in your torque specs and my mid 70s Poulan S25 chainsaw major torques:

1. The only ft lbs torques = flywheel nut 13-15, spark plug 18-22, clutch hub 13-51.

2. Some inch lbs as crank case 55-60, connector rod 55-60, highest carb housing 80-90.

3. All others = low in lbs 20-30. 1/4" drive recommended for in lbs and 3/8" for ft lbs torque.

I thought these were interesting comparisons. VWs engines taught me to respect torque specs after rebuilding VWs about 15 yrs. I also made some good torque experiments as torquing a 26 ft lb head bolt before it stripped at about 75 ft lbs. Plus, I was not lucky on some "Real Life" snugging on some aluminum where "O" rings vs gaskets were involved. loger

    Bookmark   August 8, 2011 at 12:30PM
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Homechicken(7b/metro-Atlanta)

Loger I was way off on my torque specs. I should know better than to rely on my memory for such things. Crankcase to cylinder assy. is 55-65 in/lbs, muffler is 50-60 in/lbs, etc. Here's the link to the parts supplier Homelite's website directs you to. Click the links on the right for Carburetor - fuel tank, Engine internal, etc for exploded diagrams with torque specs.

http://hcpi.arinet.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF

    Bookmark   August 8, 2011 at 5:56PM
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Homechicken(7b/metro-Atlanta)

Hmmm, the link won't work. Well, here's the link to the main Homelite parts website.

http://www.homelite.com/service_support/order_parts

    Bookmark   August 8, 2011 at 6:05PM
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loger_gw

Spects are good and I hope that was a good catch. BUT! A good natural feel means a lot if you have some mechanical skills. When itâÂÂs tight itâÂÂs tight. Except compressing a gasket or crush washer vs an âÂÂOâ ring in a grove (a light seat of the metal "to-metal). Take Care! Loger

PS. If you d/n peek at the cyl through the mufflerâÂÂs exhaust port, I hope you find it in good condition.

    Bookmark   August 8, 2011 at 8:50PM
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Homechicken(7b/metro-Atlanta)

Is been a long time since I've done much engine work of any kind, so whatever "feel" I had is long gone I'm afraid. Yes I did take a peek inside the cylinder, it looks fine.

    Bookmark   August 8, 2011 at 10:38PM
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