1886 Troy Bilt Horse 8HP Kohler Professional Model

mrtroybiltSeptember 29, 2010

I have owned Troy Bilt Horse model tillers for years back in the 80's when I would till gardens for extra money as a sideline. It became old after dealing with the transporting, some difficult customers ( not many though ) and the time demands with my regular job at United Airlines. I would buy a new 7 or 8 HP model at the beginning of the gardening season and sell it in the late fall ( still new looking under warranty) This was back when Troy Bilt was putting out great quality machines. Now of course they are out of business and owned by MTD I believe with a much lesser quality product in my opinion. I got the gardening bug ( no pun ) and found this 1986 8HP Professional model Horse with a Kohler engine which is my favorite and bought it for $500.00. It was in pretty good shape but not like I used to keep them so after the engine and transmission seemed to be fine I bought it and began going over it. To my surprise it came up better than I had imagined and after putting a new set of tines on it and replacing the reverse disc, checking all fluids which were ok thank goodness I was off. Put it in this 80 X 100 plot I found and started breaking ground. It did pretty well considering new turf but on the 2nd and 3rd pass I noticed it wasn't going as deeply as I had remembered my old ones did and it would jump in certain hard areas. Also the depth regulator bar still jumps out of it's notch setting and goes to full depth with these jumps. I am trying to get that darn little spring plug tube bolt off thinking a new fresh spring just might do the trick putting more tension against the depth regulator bar to stop the jumping from it's notch. I currently have it resting forward while I put Liquid Wrench on the end threads hoping it will work into the probably frozen and rusted threads. I cannot budge it yet and am thinking of putting heat on it and trying to work it out with Vice Grips if I don't round the thing off.... Any suggestions and or comments would be appreciated and also your experience with your older model Troy Bilt Horse... I love em. Thanks, Bob

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gator_rider2(z8 Ga.)

Tap plug on end that free up threads I'd heat coupling with propane torch first. They never needed full 1/4 inch pipe torque to begin with to stay in 15 ft. pounds hold them for ever. When got my plug out I weld large washer on end plug so have pull ring to pull trellis wire tight. I have 1973 & 1977 its 4 speed both have new engines overhead valves they pull harder than flat heads.

    Bookmark   September 29, 2010 at 9:19PM
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Are you talking about the plunger and spring that hold the depth bar in place?

    Bookmark   October 2, 2010 at 6:49AM
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Yes baymee, the little tube with a spring inside to keep the depth bar in the notch.... can;t break the plug loose to replace the spring for better tension on the bar.

    Bookmark   October 2, 2010 at 11:40PM
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Heat with a torch. Use penetrating oil. Tap with a hammer. That's about all you can do.

    Bookmark   October 3, 2010 at 6:53AM
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mrt: Further to Bay's advice heating the tube and then quenching the Plug with cold water then quickly attempting removal of the plug sometimes also is beneficial in stubborn cases where heat and penetrating oil alone has not sufficed.

    Bookmark   October 3, 2010 at 8:53AM
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Thanks guys... I'll try those ideas maybe tomorrow... only thing is, I've been putting penetrating oil on it for about a week now and still not a budge; hopefully the heat and tapping will help... I'll let you know.

    Bookmark   October 3, 2010 at 10:36PM
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When you do get the plug out,and before re-installing put some anti seize compound on the threads. Sure makes it easier the next time the plug has to be removed. Not sure how old my Horse is but, it has the original cast iron Clinton engine on it. Got it at a yard sale about four years ago for $100. Had been stored in a barn for at least twelve years.

    Bookmark   October 4, 2010 at 5:38AM
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Heating it red hot and letting it cool will probably help. Just don't use any tools on it until it cools to a gray color.

    Bookmark   October 4, 2010 at 6:12AM
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mrt: I would be surprised if the Heating and Quenching does not resolve the seized condition. When you expand the internal threads of the tubing via the Torch Heat (Red Hot) then quench the Plug the external threads of the plug will shrink slightly and the Galled condition will be eliminated for a few seconds. Just enough to quickly remove the Plug. Follow Nods advice on the anti seize compound sure makes life easier next time lol .

    Bookmark   October 4, 2010 at 3:19PM
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I just re-read your post. You want to remove a frozen bolt? I have to look at mine and see what you're talking about.

Using a torch, penetrating oil, and an impact gun should fix it.

Put the impact gun to it's lowest setting and let it rattle the bolt. Increase the pressure gradually. Before doing all this, heat the bolt to red hot and quench it.

    Bookmark   October 5, 2010 at 6:10AM
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