Please share links/info on Poulan Chainsaws Automatic Oilers

loger_gwSeptember 10, 2010

Please share links on how Small Poulan Chainsaws Automatic Oilers work or explanations.

I c/n find good info on-line but my Poulan S25 manual had some info and a semi tear down showed info.

1. It appears the oil tank is pressurized to supply the bar & chain oil. If so, where is the pressure coming

from?

2. I noticed a filter that was clean, an opening into the oil tank from the filter area and a port in the center of the filter.

3. The saw is a small Craftsman , 2.3/14"Solid State, Mod # 358.35366, ?# 43124374, Red (by Poulan).

Thanks In Advance! loger

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ewalk

Loger: Numerous Poulan / Craftman Poulan / Partner (formerly Pioneer) Poulan / Husky units out there. The S-25 was a 70's Vintage Unit if I recall correctly , have worked on numerous Poulan's lol . I believe your Model may be the Crankcase Pressurized Oiler Design . Some units did have a Mechanical Oil "Pump" but many of the older and smaller Saws used the crankcase pressure to distribute the oil to the chain from the tank . I will check my old Saw Manual's tonight an see what I can find should you not find info online Bro !

    Bookmark   September 10, 2010 at 4:26PM
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loger_gw

Thanks For The Quick Reply & Info, Ewalk!

All of my Poulans and etc are Vintage as I am and running fine. LOL! I have two S25 models and the smaller model mentioned. I have a manual for the S25s that shows the manual pump in detail but not how the automatic works in the system. This was a preventive and learning effort today vs a lack of oiling. BUT! I check the oil filter that I have seen dirty (with sawdust) and the problem on other saws. Plus, I changed the fuel line since I c/n remember replacing it. I believe in Preventive Maintenance vs waiting for equipment to fail.

The season is upon us. We spilt wood this week from last winterÂs heavy snow stormÂs damage. Is it easier to split the hardwood (oaks) while itÂs green or after it seasons?

Take Care,
loger

    Bookmark   September 10, 2010 at 5:21PM
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ewalk

Loger: The Poulan Models that I have are Mid 80's to Early 90's Vintage. Both Illustrate Auto / Manual Oiling Systems. The Auto Feature is supplied from the Oil Reservoir via Crankcase Pressure . The Secondary Manual Feature is via a Manual Oil Plunger supplied again from the Main Reservoir from a second supply line. You may wish to check out the Chainsaw Collector's Corner online which will show your saws Specifications in Detail .

Note: As for Hardwood Spitting I have found both Hard Maple and Oak Split much better when still green (moisture) . Ideally Cutting in late fall and splitting in Mid December when moisture content will freeze reducing the effort required to split even the Gnarly Stuff. Of course if you still have your Hydraulic Splitter it would not make a great deal of difference then with a Maul or Splitting Axe lol . Hey you have any Ironwood in your neck of the Woods ? I have split and burnt it back in the day and boy what a great wood for Domestic Heating . It usually is found close to swamps with Cedar Stands , but is a Very Dense Hardwood . Anyhow keep you Oil Pump Filter Clean along with the Associate Oil Lines and Galleries and you will be fine. I use to run a little kerosene through my system every 2-3 yrs to flush / clean it out , although now there are even more efficient products that would do the same . Happy Cutting Dude !

    Bookmark   September 11, 2010 at 9:22AM
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loger_gw

Ewalk: Thanks for the tip on "the Chainsaw Collector's Corner online", I'll check it out.

Very interesting info in the note:

1. My father told me hard wood would split easier after it freezes.

2. This will be the 3rd season to use the nice splitter given to me. I thought they were too slow initially but almost a must now. LOL

3. "Iron Wood" is what I have heard Mesquite wood called. We have plenty of it in this general area and West and South of us. It's a choice wood for BBQing/Grilling for flavor vs heat (I mix pecan and mesquite for flavor). I was warned not to burn it straight in a fireplace because it burns too hot and will cause damages. I was guaranteed it would not hurt my fireplace. Burning one load of mesquite proved them wrong and they had to replace the two 30" sections of chimney pipe. When I have excess mesquite I'll put one log in with oak or pecan w/o a problem. We could be talking about a different wood because mesquite is plentiful in the Dry Plain Areas vs around moisture here. Plus they are basically small trees with dangerous thorns on them.

Willow trees are our trees that grow close to water. They are soft and not good to burn but will after they dry-out. Cedar does not grow to any size here. I have not heard of it being burned here due to rosin as pine but not due to size. Bodoc (?) wood was one I learned the hard way on not to burn in an open fireplace due to excessive poping and sparks going across the room. Elm is a plentiful fair burning wood here. I have seen some suppliers mix it with oak for sale when the oak supply is low. Related attachment: loger

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mesquite

    Bookmark   September 16, 2010 at 5:28PM
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ewalk

Loger: I will have to follow up on the Ironwood Origin , it is very much like Maple or Oak in Burning but even more heat per Cord. Not a lot of it in my area , anymore unfortunately . Ironwood Michigan in the Lower Pennisula has an abundance of this wood lol . I will follow up with my Daughter who lives in Michigan as to the Specifics . Anyhow take care bro and have fun finishing up with the Firewood Cutting :)

    Bookmark   September 17, 2010 at 12:23AM
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