Echo 200 GT Trimmer

DocBravoSeptember 3, 2011

I have an echo 200 GT weedwacker that won't start. I have done the following and it's driving me crazy

1. Changed the fuel line

2. Changed the return line

3. Cleaned the carburator (all gaskets seem intact)

4. Check spark plug (all good)

5. Changed fuel ( I have an edger and use the same fuel mix ture and it starts)

6. Pulled the muffler off and cleaned all the gunk out

7. Cleaned fuel filter

I have also sprayed starter fluid in the intake. It will start for about 6 seconds then dies. Would really appreciate any help.

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You need to properly go throught the carb, totally disassemble and clean out all of the orifices, including the spring/needle/lever, and visually verify that the passage is clear.


    Bookmark   September 3, 2011 at 7:44PM
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History dictates a lot of info and needs:

1. How long did it sit and was the fuel treated or run "Bone-Dry" from the last good season?

2. Spark test was a good blue spark?

3. Age of the Wacker and it has good compression? Is the rubber in the carb soft vs hard? loger

    Bookmark   September 3, 2011 at 8:21PM
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I have used the trimmier this summer right up to about a month ago when it stopped starting.

I did use a 'low ash" stabilizer oil. 50:1

However I used the same mixture in my edger and it works fine.

I didn't notice if the spark was blue, I pulled it out, took a wire brush to the carbon, grounded it and tested that it sparked.

The wacker is probably about 7 years old, and it seems to have good compression, but I'm not sure exactly how I should check for that.

There really isn't any rubber in the carb, unless you mean the gaskets, there are no holes, but they are definitely not hard.

    Bookmark   September 4, 2011 at 7:07AM
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I have a 210 and had an incident where the tube with the filter into the gas tank was not far enough into the tank. It sputtered, stopped and wouldn't run again until the filter was far enough in the tank - to drag in the fuel.

    Bookmark   September 4, 2011 at 3:18PM
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Forgot -- if the 200 has a primer bulb, is it in reasonable condition?

    Bookmark   September 4, 2011 at 3:21PM
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Good History!

1. With the engine starting, I doubt it's a compression issue. A gauge is said to read 60-100 psi or you s/n be able to hold the compression in with a thumb or finger.

2. Sounds like a fuel issue. Have you tried seating and re-adjusting the carb? I would think 3/4 to 1 turn out to start??

3. Did you run fine wire in all of the carb ports when you cleaned the carb? Did you soak and use compressed air when cleaning the carb? Did you see and clean the small screen in the carb?

4. Was replacing the lines a clear replace matter vs have multiple lines that had broken off? Is the primer/purging bulb drawing gas and supplying fuel for the short run or is it the use of starter fluid that gives the short run?

I hope I have mentioned something that will help. Good Luck & A Thumbs Reply Soon!

    Bookmark   September 4, 2011 at 3:21PM
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Thanks to all.

Loger, I did not run a fine wire in the ports of the carb and I did not soak it and blow it out with compressed air. That may be the problem right there. All I did was break it down and spray it really well with carb cleaner then I put it back together fairly quick. Do you have a suggestion of what I should soak it in? regular gasoline maybe?

I have tried re-seating the carb twice,making sure I got it all back together correctly.

The first line I replaced was the gas line and it was dry rotted pretty bad but not broken in pieces, although the edges near the filter were starting the fall apart. There may be a chance there is some pieces stuck somewhere. The return line was not as bad and wa snot broken, but it still had some dry rot so I replaced it for good measure.

The primer bulb seems to be working properly, although it will probably need to be replaced soon.

The short run seems to stem from the starter fluid, which makes me think that I have a fuel problem. Like you said.

    Bookmark   September 4, 2011 at 4:03PM
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DocBravo, I use automotive grade carb cleaner (Chemtool B-12 is one) liquid ver. to soak or compressed can ver. "with stem" to pressure clean "along with the fine wire" to verify the "all" port are open. If the pressure ver. showing good passage that can eliminates the need for compressed air if its not handy. I will only soak when I see an extreme case of fuel's varnish build-up or continued problems. I doubt you will have build-up if you had good performance recently.

1. Reading closer that you are not pulling fuel, leads me to believe you have some instant blockage (debris) vs from fuel sitting years and turning into varnish. OR! "Loose cylinder screws not allowing a vacuum to create to pull the fuel into the cylinder".

2. I d/n get a feel that you were adjusting the carb by running the adjustment screw all the way in until it lightly seats/stops and back out 3/4-1 turn as a start to adjust the carb. Adjusting the carb is secondary if it was runing good. "But Needed" if you clean the carb good because you should remove the screw to verify that port is clear. It would be good if someone wound 2nd motion the pre adjustment and etc since I have not adjusted this specific model.

I think we are getting closer. BUT, I Had One Echo To Retire Me Or I Gave Up! LOL. Loger

    Bookmark   September 4, 2011 at 8:35PM
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Ok, so some good news, I broke down the carb all the way, removed the screen, small spring parts at the bottom, soaked it and sprayed everything out with compressed air. It started on the third pull. Awesome! Only problem is when I hit the throttle it stalls out. I think you're right about the carb needing to be adjusted, I'm just not sure what screws I need to turn. Is it the one screw next to the throttle cable?

    Bookmark   September 5, 2011 at 6:48PM
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Good News! Sometimes there is a marking indicating Mixture or Idling close. Not seeing the layout or knowing the specific trimmer. When you mention closest to cable that would mean idle to me (if not ext idle). Tweak the other screw open 1/4 turn out to see if this improves. If it does you will know but give it slightly too much gas than too little. Running too lean is harmful toward burning parts vs too rich (slightly above the balanceing of good vs bad). Go Go Go! Loger

    Bookmark   September 5, 2011 at 8:43PM
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Doc: Your stalling is due to a to lean low speed mixture. I would suggest you remove both the high and low jets normally on the left side of the engine (beside) each other . Spray some cleaner in both jets and seat them gentley . Next turn both out to approx 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns. Restart the unit and run at high speed once up to temp . If there is any hesitation readjust the low speed jet in or out until hesitation is resolved. The High speed jet usually above the low speed should be set a little richer to reduce the possibility of seizing , once you achieve highest rpm turn the jet out until you notice a little gurgle affect which I refer to as Dieseling lol . You can then set you idle speed jet next to the throttle plate .

    Bookmark   September 6, 2011 at 5:40AM
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Ok, I now know what the idle screw is and I adjusted that or atleast It looks as if it's ok. However, I cannot seem to find any adjustment screws for the Jets. I even looked on youtube hoping that there may be a video of where they are, but no luck. I'm going to stare at the carb a little longer. I know they have to be some where. Thanks all.

    Bookmark   September 6, 2011 at 8:25AM
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This might encourage me to work on my donated Echo PE2000 #552865. I hate to spend a penny on it vs waiting until another running is donated to swap carb kits with. Cheap Me! It would be a 3rd trimmer that runs b/n WOT.

Check these sites at these 3 addresses. loger

How to Adjust the Carburetor on an Echo Line Trimmer :

The adjustment needle might be hidden as 11 under 10 in this diagram:

This is not your model but it seems to have some good info:

    Bookmark   September 6, 2011 at 11:55AM
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I think you have a Zama Carb on the Econo Model 200 Gt . Does it have a primer bulb on the right side of the carb with a plastic black cover over the throttle shaft and cable pull area ? The 215 and 225 models that I have worked on had Walbro carbs which have tuneable jets . You may well have a fixed jet zama carb which will require welch plug removal for tuning and rejetting , this make internal cleaning a little more time consuming .

    Bookmark   September 6, 2011 at 1:46PM
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Yep, I think you described what I have ewalk. Is there a way to adjust the fixed jet zama carb? what's the best way to do it?

    Bookmark   September 6, 2011 at 11:25PM
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Doc: Sorry I have not repaired any of the economy model Echo's only there Commercial Grade units. I see your carb is offered new at $50.00 inline . I would check for plastic limiter caps or metal welch plugs under the plastic cover . You will have to carefully dismantle the carb . If this carb is tuneable you will see the jets under the anti tampering covers . If not it is fixed and you will have to try the concentrated fuel cleaner within fresh fuel leave overnight route or replace the carb . If you do go with a Walbro replacment actually cheaper and a much better overal carb .

    Bookmark   September 7, 2011 at 5:22AM
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