Need some help with a Husqvarna chainsaw??

mstoops(michigan)September 20, 2005

Hello,

I have a rancher 61 chainsaw, it is quite old and really like it.I want to buy a new one and was wondering if anyone could tell me the equivelant saw in todays numbers for the husky?

Also I want to fix the one I have,but I can't seem to get it running.I changed the fuel line, the fuel filter,the spark plug, problem is it won't run.It has excellant blue spark,I'm pretty sure it is getting gas to the plug, but it won't start.Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks Mike

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
tkendr01

The 61 Rancher uses a 61.5 cc engine. When looking at the same brand or other brands of chainsaws, start with the models with this size engine. The saw and bar show a weight of 6.7 kg so it is also quite heavy as well as old. The Husky 359 looks like a close match.

If you buy the 359 from a servicing dealer, take the 61 Rancher in for service at the same time.

    Bookmark   September 21, 2005 at 7:34AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
hlw49(Z6 TN)

If you are getting fuel and fire the only thing left is compression. Look at the cylinder and piston to see if it is scored. I know someone is going to say fire at the right time. So I might as well beat them to it LOL. Provider you aren't getting too much fuel. Later Butch

    Bookmark   September 22, 2005 at 12:02AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Fisher

To add to what Butch said. Remove the muffler and look at the piston.
Fish

    Bookmark   September 22, 2005 at 1:50PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
josephtm(CHN India)

I think the 61 like other Huskys run on a single piston ring. So loss of compression could occur faster than on 2 ring types.
It does seem like a compression problem.
The 61 is still in production, from Brazil.But I dont know if its for sale in your part of the woods
Hi Fish! Sorry I did not respond to you during the Stihl Blower post.
Joe

    Bookmark   September 24, 2005 at 3:08PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bingopin

Make sure the muffler isn't plugged with a dirt dauber nest or some other debris. When an engine will not start for no apparent reason, always make sure the muffler is clear.

    Bookmark   September 24, 2005 at 9:08PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
mstoops(michigan)

Hello again,
Thanks to everyone for all the help.I pulled the muffler and cleaned the screen in it.The piston looks excellant,and the ring is nice and tight.I don't have a compression tester but if you take the plug out and put your finger over the plug hole you can't hold it on there while you use the pull starter, it pushes your finger off with force.This tells me that I have really good compression.This saw does have cdi is there anyway that it could be like points if they get bad everything works it just won't start?
Thanks Mike

    Bookmark   September 25, 2005 at 3:19PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
woodchuck1(6ny)

how old is the fuel mix if it is old mix a fresh batch and try that

    Bookmark   September 28, 2005 at 7:10PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
slowolf(z9 CALIF)

The 359 mentioned in the previous post will not be as powerful as your 61. A closer match would be either a 570 or a 357XP. The 357XP has a smaller sized engine but actually sports more horsepower (4.4hp) and torque than the 359 (3.9hp). Weight is about 12.1 lbs (sans bar and chain) so will be lighter than the 61. The XP is a professional grade and has better internal components.

The 570 is beefier at 14.9 lbs and will be more of a match weight-wise to the 61. With a 69cc engine it packs 4.9 HP but uses standard components. The 575XP is better yet but the price goes out of my league so I won't go there.

I am replacing my 61 I've used regularly for 25 years (it still runs strong) The anti-vibe mounts gave out so I will replace those and keep it for a backup. I will purchase a new 570 or 357XP today. Haven't yet decided which.

I think you may need to replace the ignition module on your old 61. I had the same thing happen to me a few years ago and that's what worked for me. Depending on the year of your 61 the part will cost between $50 and $125 I believe. I would take it to your service and have them test it to see if that is what it is.

    Bookmark   November 9, 2005 at 3:26PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
hlw49(Z6 TN)

If I remember correctly the 61 has a two piece ignition module. I would check the wire from the trigger module to the coil for looseness and breaks. Pour a little fuel down the throat of the carb. and see if it will start them. Later Butch

    Bookmark   November 11, 2005 at 9:31PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
slowolf(z9 CALIF)

OK....I ended up purchasing the 357XP with 24" bar and I love it. I have about 4 Liveoak trees down on my property and bucked up about 2 cords worth this weekend (1 tree, 2' DBH) and this saw was sweet! Powerful enough to handle the crosscuts and light enough to handle the limbing without tiring me out.

    Bookmark   November 13, 2005 at 7:34PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
nickey

i was doing some cleaning on a 359 husky, and the metal coil came off the metal circualr device ... i can not get it back on ... how do you put it back on??? thanks.

    Bookmark   January 3, 2006 at 8:37PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
barbedwire

"i was doing some cleaning on a 359 husky, and the metal coil came off the metal circualr device ... i can not get it back on ... how do you put it back on???"

What the heck are you talking about?

    Bookmark   January 6, 2006 at 10:31AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
snuffyinatl

Do you mean the band brake slipped off the clutch housing?
Something came off the flywheel? Lotsa metal circular devices on a saw....can you give us a hint of where on the saw this happened?

    Bookmark   January 6, 2006 at 9:37PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
moneymandad

I did the same thing with model 359. I forgot to release the chain brake before removing the cover to replace the chain. The cover is off but the brake is engaged & will not fit over the clutch housing. How do you release the clutch so that the brake ring will fit over the clutch housing?

    Bookmark   May 27, 2006 at 10:15PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
canguy(British Columbia)

You need to rotate the star wheel to release the brake and it can be a hassle. Clamp the cover in a vise, being careful not to break it, and use vise grips. Don't ask me how I know this.

    Bookmark   May 29, 2006 at 4:01AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
lunaticfringe

Or you could just get a saw with the chain brake in the case where it belongs.

That is one issue I've always had with the husky stuff. They've never gotten the chain break beyond being an add on. It's never really seemed like the saw was designed to have one to begin with. Looks like an engineer just forgot it till the end, and then found a place to stick one as an afterthought.

    Bookmark   May 29, 2006 at 8:47AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
hlw49(Z6 TN)

I have always been able to stick the cover back on and kinda cock it to the front and engage the brake that way.

Later Butch

    Bookmark   May 31, 2006 at 9:33PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
barbedwire

"That is one issue I've always had with the husky stuff. They've never gotten the chain break beyond being an add on. It's never really seemed like the saw was designed to have one to begin with. Looks like an engineer just forgot it till the end, and then found a place to stick one as an afterthought."
lunaticfringe

You obviously haven`t looked at any modern or pro huskies to make that statement.

    Bookmark   May 31, 2006 at 9:39PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
moneymandad

Thanks all. I was able to get the cover back on my model 359. As kind of instructed I used an open end wrench around the star wheel & used a crescent wrench to twist the open end wrench which was around the star wheel. It popped into place easily & I was able to place the cover on as normal. As my wife says I am a man again I have my toy back!

    Bookmark   May 31, 2006 at 9:55PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
canguy(British Columbia)

Life is good LOL.

    Bookmark   May 31, 2006 at 11:25PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
johnmoravsky

when i tighten the two nuts retaining the brake cover and bar on my 345 husqvarna i find that the chain seizes up in the bar runner and doesnt run freely at all .when i loosen back the nuts the chain runs freely again but as you can imagine its a v short time before chain is very slack .it seems that bar width is too narrow and when nuts get tightened they crush bar runners onto chain .any suggestions .i built saw from a basket so maybe spacer missing or what ?id apprerciate your assistance,thanks john ,scotland

    Bookmark   June 24, 2008 at 11:00AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brianstephens_gmx_com

I bought a Husqvarna 55 chainsaw about 4 months ago here in France where I live. Probably only used it about 10 to 15 times for around 2 hours a go so total maximum of 30 hours. It was overheating so I took it back to the shop and they said the piston and cylinder were both shot (scored to hell) and that I must have forgotten to put oil in the petrol.

But here is the thing I am 100% sure I put in oil at a 1:50 mix ratio. Initially I used a Stihl oil for the mix, then I changed to Husqvarna when I was having trouble with it running i.e. I mixed a new batch and was very careful to ensure the mix was absolutely correct.

When I looked at the spark plug to see if that was the reason for poor performance it was coked up and I had to clean it up, a sign of too much oil normally.

I absolutely know I put oil in the mix but I am now faced with a very expensive repair bill on a virtually brand new machine. The supplier has refused to honor the guarantee because they say it is my fault and I know it isn't but can't prove it.

Anyone know of similar problems with a 55 or have any suggestions. Was the Stihl oil the problem maybe, I am gutted because life ain't cheap at the moment.

    Bookmark   March 16, 2009 at 12:13PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
gardner_crawley_dalsterling_com

I bought a Model 61 at auction. It doesn't appear to have a spark. Is there any way to test the ignition system to see what needs repairing / replacing?

    Bookmark   September 10, 2010 at 2:25AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ewalk

Bring the Ignition Module to Your Local Delaer , they normally will bench load test unit for free and since they will supply the New Unit it's a Win / Win Situation .

    Bookmark   September 10, 2010 at 4:48PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ewalk

Bring the Ignition Module to Your Local Delaer , they normally will bench load test unit for free and since they will supply the New Unit it's a Win / Win Situation .

    Bookmark   September 10, 2010 at 4:49PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
thepigstye

I have a Husky 136 with less than 40 hours since I bought it new at the dealer. The other day, I was cutting and the saw started cuttiing out. The next day, it started right up, then started the cutting out again. After restarting the saw 5 or 6 times and not even getting half way thru a 1' diameter log,it gave out. I pulled the plug. No fire whatsoever. Do these have a piece o' crap eletronic ignition or points? I restore vintage 2 stroke motorcycle motors from the 1940-60's. Never have an ignition problem that isn't very easy to fix and inexpensive to boot. Why the Factory thinks their CDI electronic crap is better than points/condensor (oh, I know, so they can make a killing every time the cdi box goes out.) I sorta find it hard to believe that the coil would go out with less than 40 hours on it. Could it be that the on/off switch went bad? Any way to check that with a meter? I disassembled the saw , almost completely,just to change out the fuel line (the filter fell off the original line inside the tank) What a pain in the rear. Next time that needs to be done, I will plug the original hose hole with a set screw and move the hole to a more convinient location, like on the right side of the carb, where I don't have to take off anything but the top cover.
I am amazed at the factory, for putting this hole in such a location that ya have to basically dismantle the saw to change the fuel line. (oh yeah, so the avaerage joe would just take it to an authorized dealer and PAY THEM to do something that anyone should be able to do....) Thanks for any advice someone can give to get the saw back up again.

    Bookmark   October 18, 2010 at 9:54PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
pgtr

"Anyone know of similar problems with a 55 or have any suggestions. Was the Stihl oil the problem maybe, I am gutted because life ain't cheap at the moment."

Yes: Have a Husqv 55 too and it's utter rubbish. I always keep a can of starter fluid and a well rested arm and it kinda sorta runs eventually. But it runs weakly I have to very carefully feather the throttle to avoid stalling (if it stalls I have to start the process of squirting fluid and yanking until my arm comes off). And once I get it running I never turn it off until I'm done. Because I'm just too worn out to go thru the process of trying to start it again.

It's been in the shop but no sustained improvement.

I need to throw it on Craigs List and invest the proceeds in a Poulan or something. This will be the last Husqvarna produce I will buy. Ever.

    Bookmark   October 24, 2010 at 12:44AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
larry1987

i bought a Husqvarna 235e two weeks ago. I have probably used it for a total of 2 hours trimming 2-3 trees...not very much work. How long does the chain last? it seems to me the chain is very "dull" - cutting a small 4" tree is very hard... instead of cutting through the tree branch as before, it now takes a long time and turns the tree "black" in the area where i'm cutting - either from heat or from blade oil... i don't know which.

how long does the chain last? does it sound like i just have a dull blade or something more serious? thanks in advance for any insight...

this is the first chain saw i've owned.

    Bookmark   November 14, 2010 at 4:56PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ewalk

larry: 1st off you actually have purchased a Poulan , but at least a Poulan with Husky Recoil lol . Seriously sounds like your an occasional user so this saw probably will be a sound investment. As for the chain , from your description the chain has become dull . These units have a very small chain , which dulls very easily. A 5/32" file is required for sharpening. Sharpening is not very difficult for a mechanically inclined individual. On the chain you will see reference marks (angle) This is the proper degree of cut for that chain. Next important issue is the depth of cut that is req'd to ensure all teeth cut the same amount of wood. I don't know if you have a depth guage but you will require one to see if all are at the same height. I would suggest you purchase a second (spare) chain and try it . Then you can compare the two also . You can go on the Husky or Stihl Sites or U-tube and see numerous chain saw filing info . Take care and ensure to wear your Hearing Protection and Eye Protection. Chaps are also a good investment even for a once a yr user .

    Bookmark   November 15, 2010 at 5:43AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ewalk

larry : Further to my last note since I have a little more time to explain the sharpening basics . 1st as I stated your new 235e has a very small chain , just a slight amount of dirt or stone remaining on the bark of a tree your cutting will in short time (few cuts) dull your cutters. The chainsaw if purchased from a Box Store may have been damage (chain) during storage or shipping , even not properly sharpened from the Poulan Manufacturing Plant . Anyways as I indicated if you proceed with the proper round file and may a few passs on each tooth in a forward direction , being careful to lift the file upon the return stroke you could effectively resharpen your chain. You will have to turn the saw and then proceed on the reverse side of the bar. I find it helpful to use a black sharpee to colour the 1st tooth to avoid duplicate resharpening. Next the Chisel Points will require dressing with a flat single cut small file , you should already have both the round and the flat . Last you will requires as recommended previously a Depth Cutter Gauge to ensure a depth gauges (behind the Cutting Edge) rounded top are of the same level . If not a straight edge set on top of two or three simultaneously will show any out of spec cutters . You should have all at the same height , if not use the flat file to lower any high ones . If your chain was new your job should be rather non eventful . Get another Replacement Chain , since it will benefit you in more ways then just a spare , rather a template of what you should have . All the Best and check out the Internet there are lots of great Sharpening Sites !

    Bookmark   November 15, 2010 at 1:19PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ewalk

larry: The following site is very accurate and informative within chain saw chain sharpening 101. http://stillibrary.com

    Bookmark   November 15, 2010 at 6:15PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ajm1033_gmail_com

I have a Husqvarna 335e the tension bar won't release what can I do?

    Bookmark   December 28, 2010 at 9:20AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
festerdude13669_yahoo_com

I have a husqvarna 61 and was wondering how to tell how old it is ? Also I've looked for a cylinder and piston upgrade I've heard a 272xp will interchange ?

    Bookmark   January 7, 2011 at 8:34AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ewalk

r
Mark: If your 61 has a Black Top it could be as new as Mid to late 80's . The White Top Models Models were introduced back in 1978 . You Prosumer Saw has 61.3 cc with a Bore of 48 mm and Stroke of 34 mm . The Husky 272 XP is a 72 cc Pro Saw with a Bore of 52 mm and Similar 34 mm Stroke . You could upgrade you Saw to a 272 XP Spec's if the Bottom end will handle it . You will have to check Radial and Thrust end play on the crank with a Dial Indicator to see what you bearing conditions are at prior to investing into a Rebuild in my Opinion . I would suggest you become a Arborist Site Reader and check out the opinions of either Jerry or Rennie for their Opinions . They routinely rebuild Huskys . I have ported and tuned numerous Old Stihl and Pioneers , but it been yrs since I upgraded any Husky units of your Vintage . It is a very capable saw , as your probably are aware . Expect to pay around 150 - $250 for your upgrade . If you go back to stock you would be in the $100.00 saving area . Numerous Slightly been used parts via the Arborist also . Good Luck Dude and let us know your decision...E :)

    Bookmark   January 8, 2011 at 9:20AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
vinny3006

My Husqvarna chainsaw is becomming air locked and I have to open the gas tank to let air in and then it will run some more, I have to keep doing this. Do you have and ideas how to fix this?

    Bookmark   February 4, 2011 at 8:38PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
masiman(z7 VA)

There is likely some type of vent system on your tank that is not working. You'll have to find out how it works on your particular saw and proceed from there.

    Bookmark   February 5, 2011 at 7:19PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jld747usa_hotmail_com

I have a 350 Husq...that is probably 5 or 6 years old with about 2hrs running time. In my estimation it is a piece of crap. I can only get it to start once in a blue moon. I can't believe I paid over $300 for it and it's not worth fiddling with. It doesn't seem to fire regularly. Any advice?

    Bookmark   March 28, 2011 at 10:46AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ewalk

G: Are you getting good blue spark ? Is the Plug wet ? If your 1st answer is No then check plug , plug wire then ignition module . If second answer No then check fuel filter , fuel lines for obstruction and then carb internal fuel circuits via inspection and use of concentrated carb cleaner and compressed air .
Note : If you can prime your saw with carb spray down the venturi and it starts briefly fuel starvation is the key.
On further thought it is possible to have sporadic hard starting due to a on/off switch beginning to go south . Anyhow pull your plug and ground it against the head and pull the saw over to determine if it is firing . To troubleshoot the ignition switch or ignition module you will require a multi meter and some electrical experience . If not seek a Dealer . Hopefully it may be something less expensive eg: bad plug or fouled carb ..let us know how your fair .

    Bookmark   March 28, 2011 at 4:55PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
basswilliam85_yahoo_com

how do i brake down to change the fuel lines

    Bookmark   June 25, 2011 at 5:27PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
marineaub_hotmail_com

My saw is the 357 XP that I can't seem to be able to start.

I seem to find a lot of gasoline leaking from engine and found lots in the muffler i took it apart but can't seem to find the leak. I'm thinking the excess gas is there because it as not been burn while cranking. I'm leaning toward ignition coil fault for the none start.

Please help

    Bookmark   July 12, 2011 at 7:23AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
canoe2_sasktel_net

A acquaintance and I both bought huakys we couldn't get his started and mine started good and worked for a wile but finally would not start warm. I did more fiddling and trying to start the machine than it was worth. I went totally by the manual. This machine makes you start the engine with the brake on, works good on a totally cold engine. I got the job done but starting the saw was the hardest part of the job.PS I brought the tree down in sections from the top by climbing 55ft. Huskies may have been a good product in the past but these 2 are going back to vendor.

    Bookmark   July 27, 2011 at 7:58AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ewalk

Ben: You will have to determine if you have a good Blue Spark at the plug electrode. If not a new plug or plug wire or even the On Switch could be the problem. No fire , No Combustion only a cylinder and eventually muffler full of fuel. Also if you have spark you may also have a fouled carb inlet needle which is causing the flood condition. Your 357 XP is an excellent unit . How long have you had it . If your saw is older you may have a worse case scenerio of a igniton module that has failed causing the no spark issues , you will have to determine through the process of elimination.

    Bookmark   July 28, 2011 at 4:22PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Bill109

I have Husqvarna 235E that doesn't seem to oil right. With a new chain it cuts a few logs. After each sharpening of cuts fewer. I have sharpened other saws without problems. I keep thinking the oil is sparse so after trying everything else, I removed the oil pump. There is supposed to be some kind of nozzle on the end of the oil pickup tube that goes into the oil tank. When I pulled the oil pickup tube no nozzle was there. I don't know if it is missing or came off in the rubber lined hole. I can't see it. Any idea how I can determine if the nozzle is in there and whether or not a missing oil pickup nozzle would cause my chain problems. The saw is a reconditioned one.

    Bookmark   July 22, 2013 at 1:26AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Bill109

I have Husqvarna 235E that doesn't seem to oil right. With a new chain it cuts a few logs. After each sharpening of cuts fewer. I have sharpened other saws without problems. I keep thinking the oil is sparse so after trying everything else, I removed the oil pump. There is supposed to be some kind of nozzle on the end of the oil pickup tube that goes into the oil tank. When I pulled the oil pickup tube no nozzle was there. I don't know if it is missing or came off in the rubber lined hole. I can't see it. Any idea how I can determine if the nozzle is in there and whether or not a missing oil pickup nozzle would cause my chain problems. The saw is a reconditioned one.

    Bookmark   July 22, 2013 at 1:31AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ewalk

Sorry Dude can't be bothered assisting on this Old Thread , previous info has been provided and the OP did not even have the balls to supply follow up . Start a new Thread if you need assistance.

    Bookmark   July 26, 2013 at 6:55PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
LeeBob

Hello, I'm having a problem with my husky 357xp. The engine is flooding and the gas tank is becoming pressurized. it will not run at all at this point and continues to flood excessively. Any help would be appreciated. thanks!

    Bookmark   December 26, 2013 at 10:00PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
DRZUHOCH

I have problem with Husqvarna 61.Does it have a RPM limiter,and if so, can it be reset,or does it reset automatically?
I was adjusting the carb mixture,high side, and it quit and will not re start.I may have over revved it too long during adjustment. No fire to plug.Tried new coil,still no fire.Wire to kill switch is good,not skinned or broken.Even tried it with switch disconnected.
Shear pin is good.Gap on magneto is spec.
Any ideas?Suggestions?
Thanks in advance for all help on this matter.

    Bookmark   May 8, 2014 at 8:50AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Mbarrow

I have a husqvarna 235 the thing runs hood but loses power in the cut. I bought a new carburetor. Put it on same thing. I heard the 235 has a cat. Converter in the muffler and it gets stopped up. I took off the muffler and it was gunned so bad . I cleaned it with carburetor cleaner and put it back on. It cut good for a days cutting. Then stopped again.I tried to order a replacement carburetor and the husqvarna company had discontinued the235 and they had a different muffler to replace the old one. Will this NEW muffler fix the problem or not? What do I do?

    Bookmark   October 20, 2014 at 10:36PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
No more roll pins
Finally got the roll pins out of the wheels on my Horse...
snuffyinatl
2 stroke Mantis tiller vs. 4 stroke Mantis
I'm looking at buying a small Mantis cultivator but...
lil_rhody
Poulan Pro rear tine tiller, burnt valve??
I have a 6.5 Intec Briggs on my tiller, which is 10...
slowpoke_gardener
Kohler K181 valve clearance
The engine would run perfect for maybe 30-45 minutes,...
snuffyinatl
Stihl vs. Husqvarna Chainsaw purchase
I am lucky enough to have my wife ask me to pick out...
virginiacowboy
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™