Does anyone know if there is such a kit available? It's for a WT-38-1. Can't seem to find one anywhere.
Checkout the Walbro Partstore.com Site your kit is $10.61
Thanks ewalk. I coulodn't find it on their web site so I emailed them the information. Do you know what the part# is? I got a hit on the FS61 model and also a hit on the WT-38-1 - but nothing came up after that.
I think it was K-12 WBT . I tried just now and could not get back in ...strange ! I have bought rebuild kits previously from them for both WD & WT , but its been a few yrs. I know in the past when trying to x-reference some older Zama carb kits it was really tough with Stihl lol. Let us know what they come back with .
Check on Ebay # 321210456716. Think this will work?
I refrain from buying carb kits on Ebay or Kjiji since your at the risk of buyer beware. Did you get any response from the Walbro Parts store ? You can also call them direct .
No, i didn't hear from them. I'll call them tomorrow.
Walbro said the K10-WAT kit will work. Now I'm wondering if the K20-WAT will work also.
Did they quote you the $10.61 for the K-10 ? As for the K-20 some items are similar as gaskets , but usually Diaphrams and welch plugs are unique to individual Models. Also the inlet needle valves are common where as the fulcrum roller pin can be one off. Better safe than sorry go with the manf. advice.
Mvron, did u actually look at the carb confirming it is a walbro? My FS65 motor looks just like yours. Yours and mine were made in Japan by Kioritz. My FS65 and old FS80's had carbs made by TK. The 65 tk carb can be mistaken for a walbro.
Outsider: The Walbro Wt 38 was used on the following Stihl FS Trimmer Models 51 , 61 , 65 , 80 & 90 .
Thanks to all for advice. Now I took the gas tank off. I want to start to clean downstream before I get to the carb. Went to the Stihl dealer to find a fuel line tank filter. He had a really tough time finding antthing that would work. It's all plastic now - not metal. will try to clean/wasdh the gas tank fuel line filter. The on/off fuel line lever is broken off - but the shop guys said it was broken "on". Does anyone know whether clockwise/counter clockwish turns the line to "on"? will probably need a plier to turn it. I did check the compression - it has some. Still might not run
Ideas on a "how to" video or literature on rebuilding a Stihl/Walbro carbs..
mvron, yours doesnt have a filter on the end? cuz replacement pt is 1 piece hose+filter.
Also, i recommend switching to the carb used on current fs80 cuz the original is gravity feed and after trying rebuild my original carbs, it would still run erratic. Also, if yours runs for a few min then starves for fuel, the orig requires a hole in the gas cap to allow air in to the tank. I couldnt turn it over without spilling gas. W/ the fs80 carb, I get steady idle and can trim sidewalks now.
For the gas shutoff, one of mine was also a nubb. i took a nut, screwed it onto the nub with epoxy, then drilled a hole for a nail as the handle to turn it. Adjust the 2 screws that hold the shutoff. Oh also, it turns 360.
ewalk, you must be looking at the parts for the "new"/recent versions of 65, 80, and 90s'. Dealers had no list of the old fs80\65 partss.
finding 3 65's, 2 80's over the years, Kiyoritz made them maybe they started with TK and switched to walbro later or something, but the thing is, mine have tk logo on the piece that holds the air filter...
No way could the 80 use the wt 38 cuz it has no fuel pump(tank is below) TK has the pump in the carb. Looks like 90 used the same carb as my 80 using the tk with the barrel throttle which is NOT a walbro.
Here is a link that might be useful: FS90
clarification ewalk - wt-38 obviously couldnt be used with the current versions of fs65,80, and 90 because these have 2 lines.
It looks like stihl\Kioritz switched to walbro\plastic filter holder, during production of the old fs65 but the ones i have come across, its is a TK with aluminum filter holder. mvron's looks like the older ones like mine.
mvron, if u do go wtih a wt38, if you want to add a primer - get a small rivet, make the vent hole over the diaphragm larger, then install the rivet sticking out that hole - push it to prime.
outsider : The units I was referring to would be vintage over ten yrs . The walbrostore shows the WT-38-1 as Oem Stock Carb as I stated . These do not have primer functions. just butter fly choke . Same as used on 029 Stihl chainsaws of about the same vintage . You are correct that newer Stihl saws and trimmers have proprietary style carbs that are often only serviced via Stihl authorized dealerships. I have not serviced any of the newer units , only the older Walbro and Zama carburated Stihl powerheads.
Note round TK logo upper left on carb.
From my own inquiry, I dont know why but stihl disseminates no\incorrect record on these trimmers' original parts.
Here is a link that might be useful: fs65 manual
I puchased the Walbro WT-38-1 - twice because both came with the built in choke lever. I wouldn't spend this time and money on this unit but because it runs good with starter fluid and I think it's a quality product. I got the new gaskets also. The fuel shut off is broken so the Stihl dealer told me that the part replacement for this is 4114 350 3500 - the pickup body. I haven't order that yet and don't know if it comes with the fuel line also which I want to replace. It appears that upon assembly, the choke lever on the new carb - which the old dosen't have - has to be open in order to operate the choke lever on the air cleaner cover that came with the orginal unit. The dealer told me that the replacement pickup body is all one unit and is all plastic. Does all this sound reasonable? thanks for ideas.
For the trimmers with the Walbro carbs, the K10-WAT is the correct kit, which is still the most common kit anywhere, any mower shop should have dozens on hand.
Many of the fs61s had the TK carb.
Is the fuel line with filter inside the tank ok? (mine have hose\filter 1 piece)
Do you have the "rubber block" that filts onto the tank and that the fuel shutoff plugs into?
I will post a picture of how to hack the broken fuel shutoff valve to work for $0 later.
For now, I would leave the air filter holder off and bolt on the carb with some washers to fill for the holder for now. You can turn the choke with pliers until u get the motor working. You can deal with the air filter holder later.
The fuel line inside the tank is OK. Yes, I have the "rubber block". I found out that the gaskets that fit on both sides of the carb are not the same size. After I put the small one on the engine side of the carb and the larger one on the airn cleaner side of the carb, I can turn the choke lever on the new carb with a pliers. It would work better for me if I can leave the new choke lever - the one that opens with a plier - open and run the engine using the old choke lever from the air cleaner cover. I ordered the new pickup body - 41173503505 - from the Stihl dealer. We will see. I would be interested in the fuel shutoff work-around you have if you will post that. I;'m not sure if the new pickup body is going to work.
Here is my cheap fix for the gas shutoff on my fs65 (with the c1q carb)-
-Take the shutoff shaft and file\grind it down so it is a straight shaft.
-Find a nut that will screw on to the shaft digging into the plastic but not dig in too much or else the shaft will break. Grab a nail to use as a handle and get a drill bit of the size of the nail.
-Line up the nut so the handle lines up updown for ON and leftright for Off etc. Take the nut and drill a hole through for the shutoff handle. Dont drill the nut while it is on the shaft or else it will melt the shaft.
-Tighten the two screws left and right of the shaft to stop the shaft from turning and tap or just screw on the nut. Make sure to get enough thread so it has a good grip. Screw on the nut and drill the hole through the plastic using the holes u drilled through the nut. Make sure not to drill out all the plastic.
-apply epoxy (you can rescrew on the nut with the epoxy if u want) to hold the handle in place and prevent the nut from falling off.
-Let it dry overnight . The plastic shaft is tapered - there is no rubber gasket so the screws left and right of the shaft need to adjust accordingly not too loose or it leaks. Adjust accordingly and Viola! u r done.
1 tidbit i left out, when u screw on the nut, you can hold the shaft from turning with needle nose pliers along with the friction from tightening the screws.
btw, I think i mentioned this in another post but being your carb doesnt have a primer button, here is how you can hack a primer in your carb:
-the bottom of the carb has a plate with a hole in the middle. remove this plate.
-go to truevalue\ace and get 1 small rivet.
-drill the hole bigger if necessary for the rivet to freely slide in.
-insert the rivet from what will be inside of the plate u removed and drilled so it will dangle when u put it back together.
-reinstall the plate to the carb. Press the rivet up as needed to prime the motor. Done.
Logic: the plate covers the diaphragm that moves up and down according to the vacuum pressure in the carb. As it is pulled up, it lets the carb needle open feeding gas in. Your pushing the rivet artificially pushes the diaphragm up, opening the needle, letting gas into the carb - there is your primer.