mower deck belt coming off on cub cadet 1045

trent_techMay 15, 2007

Has anyone had any of the 1000 series Cub Cadets with a belt problem? I use the lowest setting and keep the throttle at recommended speed. The belt comes off whenever it wants. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem. My mower only has 56 hours on it.

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deercub(7)

Not sure what you mean by lowest setting but you should run your mower wide open when cutting. Also have you checked under the deck to make sure your tension spring has not come off?

    Bookmark   May 15, 2007 at 7:23PM
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macguy

There is a known issue with Cub decks and the tension spring. The local dealer should put a new one on free of charge if it was part of the recall.

    Bookmark   May 15, 2007 at 7:33PM
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trent_tech

Everything on the deck appears in new condition. All springs are attached and it holds strong tension. The belt comes off while cutting on the lowest cutting height and with the throttle at full position, as recommended. I can cut an acre or 2 sometimes before it comes off. But I can be cutting on level ground under low loads and it come off for no reason. I was just wondering if anyone had the same issues as myself. Put it this way. I can almost know that every other time I cut my yard, I'll have to put that dang belt back on. And the belt looks new still.

    Bookmark   May 16, 2007 at 6:28PM
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turnberry15033

I've had exactly the same problem and haven't been able to find a fix. Have you been able to fix the problem? I believe it's a design flaw -- my machine is a 2005; newer machines have a redesigned mower deck belt assembly. Cadet Cub is useless for assistance.

    Bookmark   July 27, 2007 at 6:51PM
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tmajor

Sometimes, a belt will come off, if going over a tree root or something, due to the deck jumping up and down.

I'm guessing, that on the lowest cutting height, the angle from the PTO pulley to the deck pulley is the greatest, which could hurt the belt alignment enough to throw the belt off.

    Bookmark   July 27, 2007 at 7:04PM
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bill_in_nc(Center NC)

Put a new belt on it and get it from your local industrial supply house. Take the old belt with you and they will find the correct size and it will be a heavy duty belt.

When belts get hot, as it probably has with your lowest mowing setting, then they looses some of its rigidity. A new HD belt will fix it!

    Bookmark   July 27, 2007 at 8:42PM
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mownie(7)

Just to eliminate another possibility for why the belt "could" be prone to jumping off (derailing). Park the machine on a smooth, even surface (like concrete or asphalt). Set the cutting height to the position where you mow most often (this is where the belt jumps, right?). Now try to get into a viewing position where you can see the leading edge (front) of the deck AND the belt. Does the leading edge of the deck appear to be lower than the trailing edge (rear)? A ruler, tape measure or other means can reveal whether the leading edge is lower than the trailing edge if it is difficult to tell with eye sight only. Does the belt from the PTO pulley appear to "bend" downward toward the deck as it exits the PTO pulley? If the answer to either questions is YES, this is probably why the belt is so wont to "get out of the groove". If the deck can be adjusted so the leading edge of the deck is SLIGHTLY higher than the trailing edge, you may be able to correct the problem. I am not familiar with this machine nor how the deck hanging and adjustment hardware is configured. I am trying to offer a "geometric" reason why this could possibly occur on a few machines and not the entire production run. My personal opinion of how a deck "should be angled" is to have the leading edge about 1/8 inch higher than the trailing edge. If the deck rides on guage wheels entirely, it could be that certain parts of your mowing domain have small "swales" or depressions that allow the deck to drop even further down when traversing one of those places. The increased angle when (if) this happens, might aggravate the tendency for the belt to derail. Since I don't have an example machine to test my hypothesis against, I hope some other CC owners/techs/experts can offer some details about this deck hanging/adjusting configuration. I might be far off the mark, but eliminating possibilties is one way of finding solutions.

    Bookmark   July 28, 2007 at 11:54AM
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tmajor

My dealer said, "leading edges of decks should be a little lower than the back edge, so that the blades aren't cutting the grass twice". ... Less load on the engine.

    Bookmark   July 28, 2007 at 1:30PM
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mownie(7)

No offense intended to anyone but, I fail to see how it could be "less load on the engine". By the time the mower deck has passed a given point on a lawn, it will have cut exactly the same amount of grass, whether it cuts it all at once in a big bite or if it take 2 "smaller, partial bites". ????? The 2 partial bites add up to the same mass of grass being handled so where does the "greater" load come from??

    Bookmark   July 28, 2007 at 7:44PM
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tmajor

Well, ... let's say you are looking at 1000 blades of grass per/foot, if only the fronts are cutting, your cutting 1000 blades of grass at one time, but if the rear is dropped, the fronts will be cutting 1000 blades of grass, a little bit, as well, as the back will be cutting 1000 blades of grass, which were previously cut by the fronts, a little bit more, totaling 2000 blades.

Surely, that makes all the sense in the world .. doesn't it?

    Bookmark   July 28, 2007 at 8:11PM
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tmajor

I'm going to clean up and go for dinner and a couple of beakers of ale. When I return, maybe we'll find that Cliff Clavin was correct with his buffalo theory, at which point I might add to the explanation. >>>>

Here is a link that might be useful: Buffalo Theory

    Bookmark   July 28, 2007 at 8:33PM
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lkbum_gw

Leading edge should be a little higher. Cleaner cut, and less shock to the cutting system. Allows distribution of force over the entire blade, reducing vibration and flex. Evenly loaded blades (front, middle and rear) achieved with a blade that engages the grass with a deck that is elevated at the front will vibrate less which is a very good thing.

    Bookmark   July 28, 2007 at 8:51PM
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tmajor

From LSUagcenter.com

"Deck Angle

It may come as a surprise that the deck should not be run level. With any rotary mower, it is desirable to set the front slightly lower (¼ to ½ inch on a 4- to 6-foot rotary cutter) so that the blade cuts at the front and the rear of the blade does not recut the grass or drag on the grass. This will reduce the power requirement and provide a cleaner cut. After you have set the cutting height at the rear using the gage wheel, you will need to adjust the 3-point hitch so that the cutting edge of the blade at the front is ¼ to ½ inch lower than at the rear."

    Bookmark   July 28, 2007 at 9:01PM
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mownie(7)

If all that matters is counting the number of blades of grass being cut, and if every blade of grass popped right up to be cut off at the exact height you want it cut at, I suppose that would be a perfect explanation. My observation of the material being ejected from mowers (not just mine) shows that there are innumerable (at least too many for me to count) grass clippings ranging in length from 1/4" to as long as 1" even though the height of the lawn is being lowered by 2" to 3" (varies). Point here is that regardless of whether the deck is lower in front or higher in front or perfectly level, you aren't going to cut each and every blade of grass off at the desired height with a single chop in one pass of the blade. If the "extra cutting" of the grass blades imposed a significant and detrimental load on the engine, it would be useless and harmful to use "mulching blades and discharge plugs" as that practice forces the mower to recut and recut the cut blades of grass until they "filter" down into the lawn. That's how I "see it". Anybody ever had to take a mulching kit back off because the engine bogged down?

    Bookmark   July 28, 2007 at 9:13PM
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bill_in_nc(Center NC)

Damn!!!

    Bookmark   July 28, 2007 at 10:47PM
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tmajor

From: manuals.deere.com

5. Measure the front edge of the mower deck directly below the front draft arm hanger at point (A).

· If necessary, turn the front draft arm nut (C) counterclockwise so the front edge of the mower deck is 3-6 mm (1/8-1/4 in.) lower than the rear corners of the mower deck.

Here is a link that might be useful: JD manuals

    Bookmark   July 29, 2007 at 12:39AM
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tmajor

From: manuals.ariens.com

MOWER PITCH
Proper blade pitch is when the blade tip, measured
from the bottom surface, is 1/8" to 1/4" lower at front of
mower deck than when same tip is at rear of mower
deck.

    Bookmark   July 29, 2007 at 12:56AM
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tmajor

from: dixon-ztr.com

5. Measure from the floor surface up to the bottom of the
blade tips at both the front and rear of the blades. Rear
of blade tips should be 1/8" to ¼" higher than the front of
blade tips. If adjustment is required, turn nut on one or
both of the rear L-rods until both measurements are
equal.

    Bookmark   July 29, 2007 at 1:11AM
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tmajor

from: badboymowers.com

Set front corners to 1/8"
lower than rear corners

    Bookmark   July 29, 2007 at 1:33AM
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tmajor

from: swisherinc.com

3. For front to rear pitch adjustment, loosen locking nut on front eyebolt and adjusting up or
down as needed. Proper pitch measurement is 1/8" to 1/4" lower at the front of the deck.

    Bookmark   July 29, 2007 at 2:07AM
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mownie(7)

OK tmajor, I will concede that you have uncovered a good deal of empirical data supporting the practice of setting the leading edge lower than the trailing edge. As I stated in my first post to this thread, "I may be far off the mark.....", and it seems I have been in this matter.

    Bookmark   July 29, 2007 at 9:36AM
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tmajor

Good morning,
I believe, that Cliff Clavin's Buffalo Theory in point on.
Also, it's probably normal to shoot the messenger.

Here is another unrelated, little known and hard to swallow fact:
When riding a bicycle, at a speed, where it is balanced, you have to pressure the handle bars in the opposite direction from the way you want to turn.
Example: With your left hand on the handle bars, to make a right turn, you must pull on the left handle bar.

Here is a link that might be useful: Physics of bicycle steering

    Bookmark   July 29, 2007 at 9:51AM
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mownie(7)

On that particular subject I agree 100% and have "hands on" experience. Matter of fact........back in the early '80s, I took a motorcycle safety course (sponsored by the motorcycle shop where I worked) called "Better Biking". In that course, "Counter steering" (as it is called) was heavily emphasized and taught. Another technique that was stressed is to "look where you want to go" in turns. The instructors explained that when you "look where you want to go", you will automatically (with experience) get there if you consciously use the counter steering technique.

    Bookmark   July 29, 2007 at 10:20AM
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tmajor

I became conscious of this, when riding motor cycle, also.
It, once again, became a topic of interest, when I was building a recumbent bike, a couple of years ago.

    Bookmark   July 29, 2007 at 10:39AM
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lkbum_gw

Wow, guess I was wrong on the deck level. The front of my Simplicity deck, however, is about 3/4" higher than the rear. Maybe this is offset by spindle angle. Guess I had been adjusting my Murrays wrong for the last 16 years. Regarding mototcycles turning, that's why most riders feel more comfortable taking left hand turns (they're pulling with their right arm which is usually stonger).

    Bookmark   July 29, 2007 at 12:28PM
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tmajor

Simplicity seems to have the opposite idea of leveling their decks or maybe it's an individuals concept of how they should be leveled. >>>

Here is a link that might be useful: Simplicity deck leveling

    Bookmark   July 29, 2007 at 12:57PM
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lkbum_gw

thanks for the link, I didn't take the time to measure the actual blade height, but my deck is definitely higher in front and it's fresh from a pretty reliable dealer (the same one who supplies the Atlanta Braves with their equipment) so I assume it's correct.

    Bookmark   July 29, 2007 at 2:33PM
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bill_in_nc(Center NC)

Well, have you tried a new belt yet?

    Bookmark   July 29, 2007 at 7:38PM
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bill_in_nc(Center NC)

Let us know what fixes it, please

    Bookmark   July 30, 2007 at 7:15PM
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aamechs2

I fixed mine!! The belt comes off only on the #1 or #2 deck settings. The angle of the deck belt is too severe. It angles downward off the motor spindle too greatly, so to fix: Just raise the front of the deck buy adjusted the two arms and locking nuts till the angle isnt so great, just slightly downward to the deck. It actually has a more even cut! Hope this helps it worked for me.

    Bookmark   April 28, 2010 at 8:43PM
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geoff_webb62_yahoo_com_au

I have a cub cadet LT1042 and my deck belt comes off all the time but it also breaks. I wish now that I had bought a different make, very disappointed

    Bookmark   December 21, 2010 at 4:25AM
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tomplum

Geoff- does the belt snap in half or seem to wear abnormally? Which pulley does it come off?

    Bookmark   December 22, 2010 at 12:21AM
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geoff_webb62_yahoo_com_au

Hi tomplum the belt seems to wear very quickly then comes off but by the time iv'e stopped the blades when I look I'm not sure which pulley the belt came off first.
I have also noticed that the new belt from MTD seems to long and there doesn't seem to be enough tension and on lower deck setting the belt rubs. the belt number for my cub cadet LT1042 is 754 04045.
do you think that this perticular belt is not the right size and I should get a genuine cub cadet belt.
many thanks Geoff

    Bookmark   December 22, 2010 at 3:46AM
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mownie(7)

Looking at the Cub 1042 offerings, I see that there are 2 possible deck configurations that were used (if my searches are accurate).
By your account of belt # 754-04045, your deck should be configured as in second image below and have 1 stationary mounted idler and 1 pivot mounted idler.
I have pointed out a "possible conflict" of belt installation that would certainly result in short life and tossing of the belt. (see image)

The first image shows a deck configured with 2 pivot mounted idlers.

If indeed yours is configured as the second image, the belt number is correct (according to MTD and Cub).

Study both images to check for correct belt and route of belt.


    Bookmark   December 22, 2010 at 11:58AM
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tomplum

Man I just live for Mownie's cool diagrams w/ the circles and arrows and... If I'm correct however, the pulley marked stationary may not be stationary however. They are a hefty little idler bracket w/ a pivot bolt that rusts and siezes. It also has a heavy spring that attaches to that. now, it doesn't move much, but the bracket moves none the less to absorb shock to the belt. You will have to drop the deck to see for sure. This deck is also good for wearing the the mount hole in the main idler arm egg shape and also for bending the arm itself. beyond that, watch for pulleys that are true, ensure the gaurds are in place and that you do use the MTD belt. On this style deck, all the above have to be happy for good belt life. If your blades are worn and vibrating, that doesn't help either. keep us posted.

    Bookmark   December 22, 2010 at 5:05PM
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rustyj14(W/PA)

After reading that tome about bicycle handling, i noted one thing in there that doesn't pertain to local bicycle riding. NO BIKE RIDERS EVER STOP FOR STOP SIGNS!! NEVER!!
And then, if the live after being hit by some unfortunate car or truck driver--they sue them for hitting them! And, usually win! BIG!!

    Bookmark   December 30, 2010 at 11:19AM
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ollieduke

The manual for my Cub says to measure the height and tilt of the deck,you should measure both by the height and tilt of the blade -tips- and not the deck. This is kind of hard to do and you have to near stand on your head. So I cut 2 wood triangle blocks and with the blades set facing front to back(not sideways). Then I mark the blocks for height and tilt on one side,adjust if needed and then with the marked blocks,check the other side. On the closed side of the deck,it is a lot easier to measure heigh from marks on the block,than trying to measure from ground to blade. Once you have the blocks marked,you can check your deck height in minutes from then on. Naturally must recheck with new blades. This is easier to do than I have made it sound like.

    Bookmark   January 1, 2011 at 9:57AM
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geoff_webb62

Thank you very much mownie for your diagram and all the effort you went too, but as tomplum has pointed out the stationary pulley does have a spring attached and does indeed move. The deck on my Cub Cadet is the second illustration.
I have now given up with the recommended deck belt which is a class A and I have now installed a B106 deck belt which is 4"s smaller in length and wider in width, I have been outside and given it a go and it seems to be Ok, in fact it seems to be a much better fit and will keep you all posted further down the line.
many thanks
Geoff

    Bookmark   January 6, 2011 at 4:25AM
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mownie(7)

Sorry for the misinfo. When I was studying the different decks listed for this model number, I noted that one idler bracket was called "pivot" (item # 42) while the other idler bracket was called "cast" (item # 57).
Yes, please let us know how it goes for the long run.

    Bookmark   January 6, 2011 at 11:35AM
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mikeProllins_yahoo_com

I just figured out how to finally fix my LT1045 Cub Cadet from having issues with the belt coming off of the deck while mowing. Taking it back into a shop for repairs will not work, the belt will just come off again the first time you mow. I am making a YouTube Video and will post a link here soon showing how to fix the POS.

Its a friggin engineering defect is what it is, took me about an hour to fix but I've got it working now with no problems, minimum vibrations and belt is running cool now! check back soon for the link!! I expect I will have the video tutorial finished within a week!!

- Mike

    Bookmark   June 22, 2011 at 4:02AM
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darg

deer cub. You might check the engine pully to the one that comes off. The angle is probely to steep for the belt at low cutting height. The more lower the angle the more it is prone to come off. Hope this helps

us5253

    Bookmark   June 23, 2011 at 6:26PM
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rustyj14(W/PA)

Back in '86, at the ripe old age of 62, i took the MC Safety course, and learned about counter-steering. I had to use my '85 Honda street bike, with the automatic tranny, which i needed because of my wooden leg (Yeah, i am that goofy!);0)
The course had a row of little cones set up and the test was to ride thru the cones, in a zig-zag manner, and not fall over! I tried it, and passed that part, by riding thru using the "push the handle bars" each way. Missed every cone!
Aww, my first MC i bought in 1947, after WW II, where i got my wood leg!

    Bookmark   June 23, 2011 at 10:34PM
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Rachmaninoffff

The left tension pulley on my LT 1045 Cub Cadet was about 1/2 inch to low and at an angle that took it out of a horizonal plane with the ajacent pullys. Took deck off and removed the bracket that holds both tension pullys. Put the defective pulley in a metal vise and hammered it so that its angle when reinstalled was parralell to the ajacent pullys. This solved the problem.
I called Cub Cadet and spoke with the technical representative and he told me that the bracket I had to bend was bent out of shape because I, as many people do, engaged the electric pto to the blades while the deck was in level 3 to mow. He told me to put the deck in its highest position before engaging the pto to engage the blades. This alleviates the stress on the Kevlar belt that is trying to come up to 3600 rpm while in the grass before they start to rotate. This can eventually bend the bracket that holds the tension pulleys. He said he is trying to tell the company to include this in the owners manual.

    Bookmark   August 30, 2011 at 1:19AM
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rick61352

On my 1045 I have had the same problem and after a bunch of chewed up and stretched out belts I found that the bolt that holds BOTH of the takeup idler pulleys loosens up and allows the belt to walk off the front most idler pulley. Tighten that bolt up and keep an eye on it and it will take care of that problem.

    Bookmark   September 11, 2011 at 5:16PM
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MikePr

Here is a solution to fix the belt coming off of the deck for the LT 1045:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pd4nYovcnvY

Here is a link that might be useful: Cub Cadet Belt Coming Off of Deck Fix

    Bookmark   May 30, 2012 at 6:20AM
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Cornwall9

I have had a LT1045 for 6 years and after the second year, the tension pulley bracket's attachment hole (MTD deck) wore oblong. I have less than an acre and there is less than 60 hours on this mower. I got a warranty replacement but that too failed to keep the belt on at height adjustment lower than 5. I complained after replacing the part and Cub Cadet had a local service rep pick up, repair, and deliver the mower. That was two years ago. Last year, the belt continued to jump off. I spend more time under the mower than riding it. It is going to be traded in to a John Deere dealer this week. At least John Deere will come out to service the mower.

    Bookmark   May 22, 2013 at 2:08PM
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