I keep blowing fuses

verynewMay 28, 2008

I have a craftsman and I keep blowing the 15 amp fuse everytime I attempt to turn the key on. I just replaced the started hoping that was the reason that it wouldn't start. I had a person look at it and he did some wiring checks and said to replace the starter. The starter is in but the lawn is long.

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butchs_hobby(s texas)

The only reason a fuse blows is because it got overloaded(too much amps). Most lawn/garden tractors use separate soleniod for the starter and you said it blows a fuse as soon as you turn on the key. At that point the starter wouldn't(or shouldn't) have any current to it at all. A stuck on soleniod would keep the starter engaged till you unhooked one of the battery cables. Find what that fuse protects in electrical system and start looking for bare wires, maybe a wire has rubbed through where it's laying against metal or a mouse?

    Bookmark   May 28, 2008 at 8:38PM
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bill_kapaun

What's the Sears 917.xxxxxx number?

Obviously you have a short "somewhere" and we need to isolate it.
For troubleshooting purposes, I recommend making up a 12V test light (from an old fuse?) that you can insert in the fuse holder.
IF the tractor has an ammeter, try bypassing it. I'm aware of one (Craftsman) instance where the ammeter got moisture in it and would short to ground when the needle moved.

    Bookmark   May 28, 2008 at 9:31PM
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verynew

I have a voltmeter that I bought today. Will that work instead of the test light. If so, how do I use it? I don't know how to by pass the ammeter. Got suggestions.

    Bookmark   May 28, 2008 at 9:45PM
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verynew

Sears number is 917271024

    Bookmark   May 28, 2008 at 9:48PM
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tomplum

You could unplug several connections at once, re-hook them 1 at a time until the fuse blows. Headlights are high on the list of shorting as well.

    Bookmark   May 28, 2008 at 9:52PM
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verynew

can I just crank the engine over and mow the lawn and worry about the fuse another time, or will it burn something out?

    Bookmark   May 28, 2008 at 9:59PM
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bill_kapaun

Your tractor has 2 Operator Presence Relays (OPR)
They are Bosch relays, which look like this.

Pins will be numbered 30, 85, 86, 87 & 87A.
IF either isn't "activating", it will blow the fuse.
Temporarily, unplug both of them.
OPR1 contains the kill circuit for the engine. However, the fuel shutoff solenoid will also kill the engine. Just not as fast.
OPR 2 is for the stator brake. Without it, the engine will not stop as fast.

Examine the plugs closely. A burned contact may prevent proper operation, resulting in a short.

You can get these relays at an auto parts store for much cheaper than a "tractor store".

NEITHER are needed to operate. They are for safety reasons!!
Those would be the likely suspects.

The only other places that would possibly short (other than a melted wire) would be seat, clutch and attachment clutch switched. They would pretty much have to be "broken".

    Bookmark   May 28, 2008 at 11:06PM
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verynew

I hope it works - If I don't post you'll know I ran into problems with the safety stuff!

    Bookmark   May 28, 2008 at 11:49PM
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verynew

I disconnected the DC ampters wires - there were two - now the fuse does not blow, but the mower does not start. Reconnected them and the fuse blows. "very interesting"

    Bookmark   May 29, 2008 at 10:02AM
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verynew

I just checked the + wire going up from the fuse to where the 2 leads go into the dc amperes meter. There was nothing registering. It appears that from the B side of the fuse holder (which is hot from the battery)there is a little over 12 volts (like 12.47) The A side of the holder leads up to the amperes meter which is marked +. On the other side of the amperes meter there is another wire (both are red) which leads back to the main string of wires and appears to go to the ignition switch.

I kept the machine off - replaced the fuse with new fuse - and then pulled the + wire from the amperes meter and put the red probe into one or the circles of the clamp and used a screw on side of machine for ground. NOTHING THERE - I am assuming I tested the meter correctly. I just left the other wire that goes to the ignition switch alone.

I am wondering why there is no juice up there

    Bookmark   May 29, 2008 at 12:14PM
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verynew

I checked the other side that is NOT marked +. It was hot. Thought despite the + on the wire that it was not +. I reversed the wires. I turned it on and it blew the fuse, back to the store for a case of fuses. Out of ideas. why is there a surge or whatever to the fuse? Seems like I would have to have it serging before it got to fuse - why does it only blow when an attempt is made to turn it on.

    Bookmark   May 29, 2008 at 2:21PM
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bill_kapaun

"I disconnected the DC ampters wires - there were two - now the fuse does not blow, but the mower does not start. Reconnected them and the fuse blows. "very interesting"

Not really. It's basically the same thing as disconnecting the battery cable.

IF you unplug THE OPR's, you REMOVE some of the likely places the wiring is SHORTING and help ISOLATE the PROBLEM!
Is that too expensive for you?

IF you have a soldering iron, make up a 12V test lamp with the tabs from a "dead" fuse and use that in place of the fuse.
Then you can eliminate shorts by unplugging various wires and seeing when the light goes out.
Or invest in a fuse company!

To see IF the ammeter is the problem, unplug it and jumper the 2 wires together. IF it still blows a fuse, it wasn't the problem.

    Bookmark   May 29, 2008 at 3:30PM
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verynew

Got it started. Turned out to be a lose connection or dirty pins - something like that, as when I cleaned it - It worked.

Thanks for the advice. I wouldn't have known what to do without it.

    Bookmark   May 29, 2008 at 9:40PM
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machiem(Z8 WA)

Lose connection or dirty connections on what? What did you clean???

    Bookmark   May 29, 2008 at 11:57PM
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