High speed problem with two Echo leaf blowers

baymee(LehighValleyPA)November 26, 2010

I had two identical PB-200 Echos in the shop at the same time, from different owners. Both would start, rev up high and then bog down. I had to manually move the choke lever at which point they would rev up again and then bog down.

Both have clean mufflers internally. Both have good compression, clean fuel and a new plug. I rebuilt both with diaphragm and gasket kits, plus cleaned all orifices and jets. One had the new hose kit and bushing for the tank. Both still run the exact same way.

I noticed that one had rust on the steel parts, caused by water in the ethanol fuel. Fuel additives are required for this fuel.

Baffled again.

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Bay: Classic Fuel Starvation Issue . With your experience within Small Engines for Blowers and Mowers ..etc. Don't be fooled by the very small fuel circuits of Saws and Blowers and Gas Trimmers. The same principles apply . If the Plug is dry without the Choke then try Carb Cleaner directly within the Carb Venturi . If it runs then you know that either the fuel filter or the Circuits are compromised .
You know my solution KISS . Check the Inlet Needle Valves or the very least High Speed Jet Circuit for fouling . Use what ever concentrated fuel cleaner additive that you prefer (2 ounces ) within your fuel and let it work through the system both statically (20 minutes) and dynamically , while the engine is running . You know that its just a matter of ensuring adequate fuel distribution. You have replaced the Diaphrams , So let me know what develop's Bro !

    Bookmark   November 26, 2010 at 7:43PM
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I'm going to try soaking the carb, like I do with the larger ones and see what happens. There are so many orifices that I don't know where one starts and where it goes.

    Bookmark   November 27, 2010 at 7:58AM
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Sounds like a good choice , especially for stubborn cases. Patience is a virtue they say so have a beer or two lol . I know you will prevail Dude :)

    Bookmark   November 27, 2010 at 10:18AM
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Well, I took my time, soaked in cleaner, checked for clear passage in every hole, new gaskets on correctly, new hoses, vent, and fuel filter, even removed the high speed jet and made sure the fuel inlet lever was properly set.

Fuel is new and muffler is clear.

Runs exactly the same.

    Bookmark   November 27, 2010 at 5:38PM
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You change the gas filter? I read the original post over and over and never mentioned about the gas filter. Sounds like fuel starvation, and the only thing left is the clogged gas filter.

It would be better if you use compressed air to blow through all the little holes and all after soaking the parts of the carb.

    Bookmark   November 27, 2010 at 7:26PM
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The new hose kit comes with a new gas filter and air vent. Oh yes, I did blow air through all the holes. They are definitely open.

The primer forces air into the tank and also forces gas through the filter back to the primer. That is working OK.

    Bookmark   November 27, 2010 at 11:04PM
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gator_rider2(z8 Ga.)

Module in list engine dieing out.

Here is a link that might be useful: module

    Bookmark   November 28, 2010 at 12:11AM
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Bay: The Primer should also be priming the Carb Venturi via the Pilot Jet Orifice. If there are no pinched lines and the Vent Line and Fuel Filter are unrestricted then it has to be the Carb Circuits. I would keep trying the carb cleaner and keep priming the unit when it begins to stall and alternately spray cleaner within the venturi to keep it running . It will eventually clear the residue. You only other avenue is the tag wire use within every orifice or a New Carb , but I know your like me and will not except defeat and throw $$$ at a repairable problem . Be patient and keep us posted. You have spark and combustion , it fires and rev's then starves for fuel or air then dies ! If it continues to die with carb spary directly within the carb throat then perhaps you have ignition modukle issues but I doubt it from your reported symtoms ?

    Bookmark   November 28, 2010 at 8:21AM
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Note: Just an after thought and worst case scenario Bay , the only other item could be a bad seal on the crank causing air entrainment and a very lean air fuel ratio at high rpm which would cause the unit to bog and die . You would however see evidence of leakage residue or seepage around the crankcase *seal) area .

    Bookmark   November 28, 2010 at 8:27AM
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My buddy is working on getting me a used module to test with. Meanwhile, I started it and went to full throttle position, but nothing. Even with starter fluid at regular intervals, it barely revs above idle. No residue noticed.

    Bookmark   November 28, 2010 at 4:28PM
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At this point, likely it's not the carb problem. I don't believe you make the same mistake in overhauling on two different unit at the same time. So good chance is whatever you are doing is not the problem.

Don't sound like the ignition, but as I said, the chance of you mess up on both carb is even less likely. You have a timing gun to check the timing and look at it when you throttle? You check the hex bolts on the cylinder and crankcase to make sure they are all tight? Any leaking from the seal?

    Bookmark   November 28, 2010 at 5:36PM
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I would further suggest to check plug colour , but with two units not have been run for a while and both starving (apparently) for fuel the plug colour would not be conclusive. It may be a Defective Ignition Module but for both to have Ignition boxs go south at the same time is rather coincidental lol . I guess if you get a used one you can verify. Strange that the unit continues to die with carb spray directly within the carb throat . Points to poor spark (intermittently) anyways . Keep us posted Bro !

    Bookmark   November 28, 2010 at 5:59PM
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