I've got the MS260 to take care of the bigger jobs around the camp. I don't like using it to cut smaller stuff like small trees and de-branching. I'm looking at something like the MS200 or MS250.
Any suggestions ?
Stihl 250c ,cuts fast , easy start and quick chain adjust (no tools required and if you use it right ie: loosen it off good and then adjust the wheel to tighten/loosen chain it works fine!), light weight , reliable and a good resale saw if you want to trade up for a larger one.I cut mostly hardwood ,last one was a bitternut 16-18" dia and no problem.
The MS250 is 3 h.p. vs. 2 h.p. for the MS 210 for a weight gain of less than 1/2 pound. The price difference where I looked was about $50, so I would recommend the MS250.
The MS250 comes in 2 models, the 250 & 250C-BE. The C-BE has got the elasto start and quick chain adjuster. Are these worthwhile features ?
Go to a servicing dealer and ask him to let you try each one. If you can start the MS260, you may not need either one of these features and they do add cost and complexity. I doubt that these features can be added to the base model.
The MS180 is an amazingly capable little saw and complements the MS260 quite well.
Happy new Year.
Please look at the Echo 3000.I gave my wife one for her birthday 6 years ago,it's her best saw.Small,light,and reliable.At $200 you can't beat it,we use it for all cutting that dose'nt need the power of our Stihl 260 or Partner 5000.
I'm not sure how the 3000 compares with the Stihl you're looking at but I'm sure it is quite a bit less expensive and from my experience just as good.With the top handle you can use this saw one handed.
Just a thought.
Can't speak to the elastostart but anything over a straight pull cord on a small saw (or big one for that matter) is a waste of money and only complicates a very simple process.
As for the quick adjuster, the professional boards have turned thumbs down on that one big time.
Thanks for the input folks,
I'll head over to the dealer and based on your comments pick out a saw fit for needs.
Thanks again - Bert
The Ms 260 has 3.5 hp and weights in at about 10.5 lbs. The MS250 is fairly close in both hp & weight. Why not go with an MS 180, otherwise may you as well always use the 260.
I thought that stepping down a little in HP and weight could serve my purpose for ground work in terms of small stuff. I guess the 250 is a little too close to my 260 and would probably act like more of a backup saw instead of a handy "little jobber".
So, let me ask you why the MS180 and not the MS200 ? other than the price difference.
The MS200 is a very good professional arborist saw with a price tag to match. The MS180 is a homeowner saw designed for limbing or as a backup to a larger unit. I sell a lot of them to the weekend warriors but it is really too small for my needs. I do everything with the Husky 345 and if that is not enough, I'll fire the Homey C-9, lay it on the log with the throttle tied open and go for lunch.
Both the MS200 & MS200T are in the arborist category, the 200T moreso because of it's top handle. The 200 also has "according to STIHL" ground work amongst it's capabilities - I guess because of the normal handle (rear).
My only worry, is that if I get a smaller like the 200 and run into mechanical problems with my 260 - the 200 won't be a viable backup. Guess I'm starting to sound confused but thats why I'm here on the forum. So, hear I go again, looking for smaller than the 260, that I can do the smaller jobs (I'm not a burly lumberjack), with enough juice to tacke the very-odd bigger job and I'm sold on STIHL.
If nobody decides to reply to this one - I can't blame you.
Thanks to all that provided suggestions.
That 260 is aboout as solid, reliable and dependable as they get, so amny of those were made 026's / 260's. You would be amazed at what can be cut with something the sizw of a 170 -180 and a 14 ich set-up. It will simply take you a tad longer but it will get the job done.
I use a little 021 at work alot.I guess if its still in production its now a 210.It cuts surprisingly fast for its size.The 023 is also a good saw,just be sure and not get an 023L.The 023L is an extra quiet version ,and lacks alot of the power of the plain 023.The best possible match to the 026 would be to find a used 024 from ebay.A few parts will interchange between the two,and the 024 is a great little saw,ive owned 3.Whatever I picked ,Id make sure to match bar lengths and chain pitch so your chains will interchange.Some of the really small Stihls have narrow kerf bar and chains.Meaning the chain gauge(thickness) is different.Once you own more than 1 saw,you will really appreciate having to buy just one type of chain.Also as far as the quick chain adjustment on the Stihls go,Id steer clear.I seriously doubt you will ever see that feature on a saw like a 440 or 660.My brother bought a new 270 with that feature and had trouble with it in a couple weeks.The small gear that you turn to tighten the chain can get very hard to turn.Just not reliable enough.I do like the toolless fuel and oil caps on the Stihls.Doug
Get the ms200t, with the quick adjust, which is a very
nice feature on the smaller saws. You will use this saw
more than the 026, which you will keep around for the
The "pro" sites do not discuss the Stihl quick adjust
feature much, because they do not use the saws much that
the feature is designed for, but the design is a good one,
and very well liked by those who have it.
When you get the saw though, get the 7t sprocket with
the picco chain without the safety bumpers, and like I said before, if you cut smaller trees, this will become your primary saw, and the 026 the backup, and saw for big stuff.
Otherwise, contemplating another saw that approaches
the size and weight of the 026 is kind of silly, because
the "backup" would logically be another 026 [ms260],
and going with a 021/023/025 saw would be dissappointing,
a ms170/180, real disappointing.
The ease and comfort/balance of the ms200t makes it the hands down choice.
The 170/180 is real light, yes. Wimpy dog with dinky
junk chain, YES
ill second the echo saw recommended. its a good saw and relatively cheap.if u want back handle the echo for that also with rear handle.if u are stepping dn from an 026 ,this would be what id do. by the way i own both the 026 and the cs 3000 so i guess i should say i did . good luck
Are you confused yet?
I'll be interested in which saw you choose because I am also trying to deside on a smaller saw. I'm tending toward the MS250 only because of the negative comments on the MS210 chain above, but it's getting a little larger than what I had in mind. I need a saw that's fairly easy to handle - not that handles me.
Keep the responses coming ........ We're interested
Any saw $100-200 cheaper than a 260 will normally be cheaper made.Dont expect a 210 to perform like a 260.I suggested an 024 because its a pro saw.I know from experience it will outcut any ms200 or 250 or 210 or 180 and so on.To be honest,other than cost,I see no need for any saw smaller than a 260.Since you are considering a 200,cost must not be of concern to you.My all around saws consist of an 044 and a Pioneer 3200. The 210s 230s 250s 180s and others are by no means pro saws,but for the money are solidly built and in my opinion a good buy.I just have no use for any of them.Doug
I guess I've really stirred things up - mind you it's all good and thanks again for all your input. I feel that I'm going into home stretch with the choice of saws - and I'm leaning towards the MS200, MS200t, or CS3000 category. What I'd like to know is how practical are the top handle saws especially if I won't be spending most of my suspended in trees like a monkey cutting branches. Will a top-handled saw perform as well as the conventional rear-handle version for miscellaneous ground work?
I've given up on the idea of using the "to be saw" as a backup for my MS260. As a few of you mentioned earlier, the 260 backup is another 260 or 026, besides, I bought my 260Pro last year and there should be no immediate concern for failure with proper maintenance.
Thanks once again !
The 021/023/025, or ms210/230/250 are the same saw, the only
difference is the size of the piston/cyl.
I own an 025, and like it well enough.
You will like to use the 200, it balances well in
your hand, and like I said, you might use it a lot more than the 260.
Bert,the top handle is essential to one handed operation,balences correctly.You have your very own adult Light Saber.
My CS3000 has a 12" bar which shares chains with my power pruner,it is used for most all cutting just because it is light and easy to handle.The 12" bar is a plus,you really don't load up the engine too much.
The 020 top handle is a super saw from what I hear.If I found one cheap I would bring it home in a minute.You will find as the others have also said it will be your most used saw so buy the best you can.
You would be very surprised at the power the ms200t has . That little saw will cut through alot . I think for ground work I would go with that saw and have a ms260 for all others . And if you want to go bigger well I would go for the ms440 .
Ok, from research and commentary I'm going for the Stihl. The power seems to be there but my only issue is whether I get the 200T(top handle) or the 200(rear handle). Both are the same power and price.
I've never cut with a top handle saw and I've got to admit that just holding is a bit weird - as stated earlier it was intended for instances where one-armed cutting is required.
The 200 hasn't existed as long as it's T-type brothers. Has anybody used the MS200 ?
Input has been solid on this posting and I've learned alot ! ---> Thanks
200T is a climbers saw. Unless you're a climber and work in a bucket then get the rear handle.
wow....lot of logic in this thread......
If you are an adult and can't lift or start an ms260 should you really be using a chainsaw? You guys call this a big saw?
"The 200 hasn't existed as long as it's T-type brothers. Has anybody used the MS200 ?"
Do you think that the engine is somehow different between these two variations of the same model?
It is the same engine , the only difference is the top handle or standard , also these saws fall into the pro class of saws .I do agree if you are not doing climbing or bucket work dont go with the top handle . Im a certified Stihl service tech , I have not seen very many of either saw come back through the shop for troubles . I do see alot of the 250's, 310's and the older saws like the 031's, 028's, 044's all great saws in great shape but many of these units you can no longer get parts for . But I can say that most of the saws that come across my bench are because of lack of pm or improper oil /fuel mixture. I have seen alot of waisted saws in the last few weeks because someone has not used the correct fuel , one even was run on #2fuel oil.
Well, I got all I needed to go on and as I stated in all of my earlier comments - Thanks to all of your input.
This thread is now bringing out some less constructive commentary - "wow....lot of logic in this thread" by Mr.barbewire.
I guess some have other ideas than providing help or suggestions.
My suggestion to you barbedwire is - "scroll on" when you've got nothing helpful to say. You obviously missed the purpose of FORUMS, go out and vent your cheap shots on a tree King Kong.
Thanks again to the rest
Bert, are you also known as Bobby P. and Lobo? You're posts have that familiar tone.
BARBEDWIRE, IF YOU'RE SMART ENOUGH TO READ YOU WOULD KNOW BERT WAS SAYING HE NEVER HANDLED A TOP HANDLE SAW,AND WANTED TO KNOW IF IT FELT DIFFERENT. NOT THAT HE DIDNT KNOW THAT THE 200 AND 200T HAD DIFFERENT ENGINE. YOU MUST BE PRETTY STRONG TO START A 260 ALL BY YOURSELF, WHAT A MANLY MAN YOU ARE