I Finally See The Purpose Of 20 + Ton Log Splitters

loger_gwDecember 8, 2011

I Finally See The Purpose Of 20 + Ton Log Splitters if you have some good tree trunk's blocks to split. The 9-12 ton splitter I have did fine with 12 - 18" dia wood w/o knots and Etc. IMO larger tree trunks have ruined my small splitter twice, noticeable from bent 1" pins and leaks that just occurred. The last of last season and rebuilt and the start of this season and rebuilt (Dec. and Dec.). I hope this info helps some of the others new to splitter toward knowing their limits w/o danger and excessive wear.

I'll go to Northern Tool to compare the splitter's constructions and recommended dia wood. I know there will be variables with the dia capacities. Such as: I/we split the large 30" + dia trunk,s blocks "ONLY" due to the large seasoning cracks which made them easy except for the 3-4 knots during both jobs. My new philosophy will be to cut knotted wood (into small burnable blocks) if it is reasonable. Then, only split smaller clean wood.

I 'll hope to get the splitter going at a reasonable cost "AGAIN" and pay closer attention to its reaction to wood vs challenging it. Bending short hot rolled 1" pins supported, takes some serious force ( if you have metal-working experience). loger

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Heh heh Guess you found out why the USS Constitution is called Old Ironsides. Dry white oak doest compress. You cant get personal with the stuff. . It is a waste of energy. Reluctantly, I realize this and resort to carving up stuff that could injure me wrestling it into the splitter.

PS, take the time to grind off the mushrooms on the heads of your wedges.

    Bookmark   December 8, 2011 at 8:31PM
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It was White Oak, my first experience with it and you have a point. You live And You Learn! loger

    Bookmark   December 8, 2011 at 9:24PM
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I'm not sure if I saw the distinction between White Oak and another oak real close with similar bark and leaves next door to the White OAK. My friend that brought both variety (old native trees in side-by-side yards) noticed quickly that it was not as TUFF and Damaging. I have healed cuts/bruises from the White Oak but the weight, deteriorating barks and large seasoning cracks are still puzzling to me. Mainly because I feel I should be burning it vs storing it. Was the 2nd possibly old Post Oak since there were very few limbs, lighter, and not as tuff wood with a different grain texture (compared to young Post Oak I have worked). It was a faster job and the wood d/n look as seasoned but it was a dead tree.

The splitter cyl is not out of the shop yet. loger

    Bookmark   December 14, 2011 at 10:27PM
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Loger: That is why I prefer Sugar or Silver Maple .Just as fine a wood stove wood and much more plentyful without the knarly stuff. I never used a Hyd. Splitter rather the old tried and proven axe and when required sledge and wedges lol . Nothing wrong with Oak just a better furnature wood and over kill for burning , I'am a bit of a tree hugger that way :)

    Bookmark   December 15, 2011 at 7:20AM
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I feel I see a little Maple (planted in yards) in this area and it does not appear as hardwood. Oak or hardwoods has always been the wood of choice and plentiful in some areas. I have also burned my share of Ash, Elm, Mesquite and Pecan mixed with Oak as a choice. I found splitting soft woods a challenge when I experimented with building splitters using a reduction gear-box and the 8" + dia wood screw looking splitter (about 30 years ago). The big screw would stall-out the splitter due to sinking into the softwood. I saw the idea used on a truck on Elm in Low-Low and it worked good.

The axe, maul or wedge & sledge are not bad at all on clean wood. Without a stove, shop & storage on a 120â X 70â city lot, this has been good exercise over the years. The Natural Gas is cheaper but the wood is fun when I can find it within 20 miles. The area's tree trimmings are my basic source of wood (if my spotters report it in time) LOL vs two small area ranches and new building developments in the past. We have plenty oak and etc on family acres in Deep East TX vs here in North TX. The drive and work is not reasonable or safe IMO vs fishing. loger

    Bookmark   December 15, 2011 at 10:58AM
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I have a little 8-ton hydraulic splitter operated with a foot pedal. It does much more than I could ever hope do with a wedge and maul, and it cost only $100.

I just sawed up a felled Osage orange that had been lying in the field for about 3 years. Solid heavy wood (it doesn't rot); the thing split a couple of test pieces without difficulty. It must be well seasoned by now, but has been out in the recent rains and needs to dry before burnt.

It even splits seasoned elm. The secret with using any splitter on seasoned wood is to set the wedge radially right over a crack; sometimes the log falls apart with the first few licks, and even the elm flies apart with a pop.

    Bookmark   December 16, 2011 at 8:04PM
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Please post a link to your splitter. loger

    Bookmark   December 17, 2011 at 12:46PM
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Canadian Maple is HARD WOOD !! Elm is Kindling In the Great White North when it comes to splitting , but who would burn Elm better of with Poplar lol . As I said Sugar Maple or Silver Maple is available all over North America perhaps not in Southern Texas , if so why not just burn Birch ?

    Bookmark   December 18, 2011 at 2:58AM
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The good Hardwoods provide good lasting coals vs just a fire you have to constantly feed. I think a lot of wood choices are the difference between using an open fireplace vs a stove. If I had a stove, I feel the pallet wood would be used more for heat vs starter woods. I am not sure if I have seen any Popular or Birch here but Ash and different Elms. A harder variety of Elm (if that is possible) is what some firewood dealers would mix with hardwood on mixed loads for less cost. 220.00 - 280.00 a cord is what hardwood is going for here. Loger

    Bookmark   December 18, 2011 at 12:49PM
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Loger: Wow here up North Oak and Maple sell for $75.00 a cord. I usually cut between 8-10 cord a yr these days for my air tights within my Garage and recreational room in the basement. Osage Orange and Hopkins (Ironwood) are the best burning (btu's) Hardwoods available . I have burnt Ironwood on occassion . As for Elm (Red or White) does not have the heat of Oak or Maple or even Yellow Birch . Ash or Hickory are very hot firewoods , just not in quanity up North here. I find Elm , Poplar , jack pine tend to smolder and give off a lot of smoke with medium heat values. Not a trait for good air tight wood stove usage . I use pallet wood both spruce and hardwood for seasonal use since 4'x4' or 4'x6' pallets are easily obtained locally free of charge . I cut 40-50 of them with my chainsaw or skillsaw every fall for quick fire starters then follow up with a few pieces of Hardwood.

    Bookmark   December 18, 2011 at 6:38PM
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