Stihl vs. Husqvarna Chainsaw purchase

virginiacowboyDecember 15, 2005

I am lucky enough to have my wife ask me to pick out my Christmas present this year. I really need a saw to clear some trees and keep up the regular firewood. I was looking at Stihl of course, which seems to be the number one choice of most. I liked the MS270 and MS 260. I also saw a Husqvarna 350 today with an 18 inch bar. I was impressed with it and it seemed to be a great saw for about $100 less than the similar Stihl. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

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The Stihl 026 is one of the best pro saws in its class. I believe that Husqvarna model is one of the homeowne/consumer ones.

    Bookmark   December 15, 2005 at 1:22PM
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Get a Stihl ... you won't be disappointed!

    Bookmark   December 15, 2005 at 2:04PM
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The Stihl name will cost you at least $100 for the same size saw.

    Bookmark   December 15, 2005 at 2:19PM
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The STIHL name may cost you more.....but there's a good reason for that. It's one of (if not the best) saw that you can buy.

Husky is now being sold in department stores like Sears. Both good and bad in that fact.

Go with a STIHL.

    Bookmark   December 15, 2005 at 6:35PM
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You can't buy the pro line Husky in box stores.

    Bookmark   December 15, 2005 at 6:37PM
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If you're looking for a saw in about the 50cc range then consider a Dolmar PS5100. Stihl's MS260 is nice but the Dolmar does everything better.

I know because I have both saws.

    Bookmark   December 15, 2005 at 7:35PM
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How much are you cutting? The little husky 350 is a great saw, as is the Stihl 260. The 270 is a bit squashy for anti-vibe, but if you are sensitive to vibration, it might be a good choice. I like my Stihl 290, and it's a piece of crap, apparently...

    Bookmark   December 16, 2005 at 12:11AM
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I would probably use it once a month for firewood. Most of the trees I need to cut are about 12 to 15 in diameter. I also saw the 346XP online yesterday. I assume that would be more on level with the 260 as a "Pro" saw?

    Bookmark   December 16, 2005 at 4:46AM
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I have a Stihl 270 and 440. The 270 is light with plenty of power. The anti-vibration system and light weight allow me to cut all day long without tiring. I have the 16" bar on it. Also got a 20" bar. Thought that worked OK until I got the 440 Magnum. Holy smokes, what an awesome saw. Even though it is several pounds heavier than the 270 I use it on anything > 14". Makes short work of anything I have cut.
Don't know much about the Huskies, but you can't go wrong with a Stihl as long as you have a good dealer to work with.

    Bookmark   December 16, 2005 at 6:15AM
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Thanks. The dealer I will buy from carries both Husky and Stihl and they are mechanics who should be able to help with any issues.

    Bookmark   December 16, 2005 at 7:59AM
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I'm not a close follower of all things Stihl, but I believe the MS270/MS270 Pro IntelliCarb is a fixed jet carb. If you need to adjust the carburetor you first need to buy and install an adjustable carburetor. Otherwise it has an excellent reputation.

The Husky 350, 353, and 346xp all come with compression releases and adjustable oilers that are the "Pro" features on the 270 Pro. The 350 is a homeownerÂs model with a plastic crank case and top cover attached by screws. The 353 is a farmer/wood cutter model with a wide power band, magnesium crank case, snap off top cover, and easily removable air filter. The 346xp is an arborist model with all the features of the 353 plus a high peak rpm and dual piston rings. The 346xp has more top end power than the 353, but power band on the 353 is much wider (high rpm vs high torque). There is roughly a $50 price increase from the 350 to the 353 to the 346xp.

I have a Husqvarna 353 and if it died tomorrow, I'd probably buy another 353... but I'd at least look at the PS5100 first.

    Bookmark   December 16, 2005 at 9:32AM
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I personally prefer the Stihl Products, however, the husky stuff has a wide support base in this area as well, and is, I'm sure, a great product. I do believe however, that stihl has the better saw in the power range that you are looking in.

It's already been said here a hundred times, go with whatever dealer you feel most comfortable with.

If you decide on the Stihl, buy an even numbered saw. (026 vs 027)

I'm sure Butch can straighten me out if I'm wrong, but I believe the even numbered saws are still built better in terms of the fasteners used, and the carburator adjustments.

    Bookmark   December 16, 2005 at 9:58AM
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Jeffrey_(Upstate NY)

For a less expensive Stihl saw, you could get the MS250.

That's what I have. Works great, and I have an 18" bar on it.

I burn 3 full cord a year. Cut/split about 1 cord myself. And have 2 cord cut/split delivered. (For the curious, I like to keep a good yearly relation with the guy for the bought stuff so it is always there for me if I need it, but at the same time like to get my own out of my woods, too).

    Bookmark   December 16, 2005 at 10:03AM
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When I was looking for a new chainsaw I went to a dealer that sold both Husqvarna and Stihl brands. I asked him for his recommendations and he said that he liked Husqvarna for chainsaws and Stihl for grass trimmers. I believe he said the weight to power ratio was also better in the Husqvarnas. I now own 2 Husqvarnas and am happy with them.

    Bookmark   December 16, 2005 at 11:22AM
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slowolf(z9 CALIF)

I just bought a Husky 357XP with a 24" bar and I love it. I've cut up 2 live oak trees (3 and 4' dia) so far. I usually cut about 10 cords a year. The 357XP replaced my Husky 61 Rancher as my primary saw. I used the 61 for over 25 years (bought it new in 1979. The 61 still runs strong although I have to replace the rubber anti-vibe mounts. The new Huskys use steel springs for mounts so are not prone to deterioration by gas and oil. The Stihl still uses rubber mounts.

    Bookmark   December 16, 2005 at 2:47PM
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I have a Husky 372xp, love it. It would be overkill for what you are using it for, though.

    Bookmark   December 16, 2005 at 4:02PM
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maineman(z5a ME)


"I believe the even numbered saws are still built better in terms of the fasteners used, and the carburetor adjustments."

That worries me. I purchased my Stihl MS 361 last year and paid quite a bit of money (about $500) for it. After a couple of years of pretty heavy use it seems to be running fine. Very powerful and it revs really high and the wood chips just gush out. And the anti-vibration feature works amazingly well. The saw feels good bare-handed.

I haven't touched the carburetor adjustments, but I do switch it from summer to winter operation, which diverts some warm exhaust air over the carburetor. I have used it in near zero weather. I have both Stihl's winter bar oil and summer bar oil for it. The winter bar oil is lots thinner than the summer bar oil.

It usually takes about three pulls in the choke position and another four pulls in the low run position to get it started when it is cold. I wish it was easier to start. But when the saw is still warm from recent use, sometimes a single pull in the low run position starts it.

However, you have got me to wondering if there was a model MS 362 that I should have gotten. I hope to run this saw for a good long time, but when and if I do replace it, I hope to get some improvements. I like to run a good chain saw and I'm not sorry I paid more to get my MS 361. Like the TV ads say, "I am worth it." (grin)


    Bookmark   December 16, 2005 at 5:33PM
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The odd = homeowner and even = pro doesn't apply any more to the new Stihl lineup with the MSXXX numbering scheme. The MS361 is definately a pro saw yet the MS290 is a "boatanchor".

    Bookmark   December 17, 2005 at 10:21AM
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I would go with Dolmar or Husky. Can be gotten for less if you shop around. My Stihl saws ("homeowner" ones though, but some ppl consider the 270/280 to be "homeowner saws" too) were a big dissapointment. My personal experiance, and I still have some stihl products, has been that stihl is very expensive, has few segment performance leaders, and the dealers are remarkably unknowledgeable about their products. You will also have to argue for warrenty service work and pay $60/hr for their labor when not under warrenty. Many ppl obviously like them and would buy anything with the stihl name. Highly recommend Dolmar, Husky or a Redmax 5000 over any similar size stihl except their tophandles and 660 or bigger stuff.

    Bookmark   December 17, 2005 at 1:41PM
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Not to highjack my own thread, but do you guys like a 16 or 18 inch bar? I know 16 is most common for homeowners who are not cutting huge trees. Being tall, I wonder if the 18 inch might help?

    Bookmark   December 19, 2005 at 6:48PM
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I'm 5'8", and have no trouble with a 20" bar. Every saw I have ever used, with the exception of an old Poulan 4900 that had a bow, has had at least a 20" bar. Some of the trees I cut down are pretty good sized, so I like that extra length.

    Bookmark   December 19, 2005 at 7:55PM
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maineman(z5a ME)


I am 5'9" and use a 16" bar. It's usually longer than I need. I can easily whittle down trees much larger than 16". However, when you start bucking a big tree, that is when the longer bar is a real convenience. Out of necessity I buck large trees by cutting the backside nearly vertical and then transition back to horizontal to finish the cut. I've made enough of those combination cuts that I feel comfortable doing them.

If I had a longer bar I could just hold the saw horizontal and make the bucking cuts without any "acrobatics" on the big trees. But about 80% of my sawing goes quite easily with the 16-inch bar, and I'm glad my Stihl dealer perusaded me to try it. I was thinking about a 20-inch bar, but I'm glad I went with the 16-inch bar.


    Bookmark   December 20, 2005 at 2:40AM
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I have the MS 290 it is a great workhorse of a saw plenty of power for larger trees I did about 70 big oak when I got it that was three years ago only problem I have had was the fuel line cracked under the carb had to take carb off and put new line it 7.00 canadian for the line and about 20 minutes to get it apart and back together I really want an MS 260 but that will have to wait. They had a big clearance up here on Husky 55's 400 canadian plus tax one dealer sold 17 and only had three left on the shelf when I was there

    Bookmark   December 20, 2005 at 8:09AM
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minibim(FL z10)

You also have to keep in mind the bar and chain you use for how fast it will cut.

I have the MS270 with a 20" bar and use a more aggressive chain on it than on my MS210's. The MS270 has made short order of some very large trees in my yard and the shock system on it makes it very comfortable to use all day long.

My little MS210's with a 16" bar are my workhorses though.

Spoken from a 5'8" female perspective, who has been cutting down trees for the past 6 weeks from Hurricane Wilma.

    Bookmark   December 21, 2005 at 5:44AM
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Which one is more comfortable to use and a better long term value the Stihl MS361 or the Husky 357XP?

    Bookmark   October 9, 2007 at 11:41AM
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The MS 361 is simply an updated version of the MS 360 (formerly the 036). I own a MS 361 and an 036 which I've had for around fifteen years. The 361 is one of the best saws on the market right now. It runs a very high rpm and will actually out-cut it's bigger counterpart, the MS 390. The saw is well balanced and lightweight for the work it's capable of doing. It'll cut nearly anything in the forest, and if you're cutting firewood, I can say with almost no exception that you'll never need a bigger saw. I give it two thumbs up. I don't use Huskies very often. I'm not saying they're a bad saw. They are obviously number two in the chainsaw business (next to stihl of course) and that means something, but if I was shelling out the money for a new saw, I think I'd have to throw out the couple extra dollars and buy the still so I could save myself some trouble and money (parts/maintainence/shorter saw life) down the road.

    Bookmark   March 29, 2009 at 3:17PM
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masiman(z7 VA)

The 390 and 361 are different classes of saws, not fair to compare them. The 390 is in the mid-use class of saws and the 361 is pro class Stihl Saw Comparison Chart

    Bookmark   March 29, 2009 at 9:43PM
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I'm very happy with my Stihl MS290 "Boatanchor."

    Bookmark   April 3, 2009 at 2:24PM
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blueseatx(z7 TX)

I own a Husquvarna 450 rancher w/ 18" bar and a Stihl 260 Pro with a 16" bar. The Husquvarna has incredible power and cuts very fast. However, I have had terrible problems with the oiler. I have had the oiler replaced 3 times and it still does not work properly.
The Stihl 260 Pro is hard to start, but it runs great after priming the air filter with a little gas. Unfortunately, the Stihl 260 lacks power and cuts 25% slower than the Husky. The Stihl bogs down very quickly. The best technical term I could use for the Stihl 260 Pro is that it sucks (well, maybe not so technical).
Go with 18". You will be disappointed with 16".

    Bookmark   April 6, 2009 at 12:13PM
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masiman(z7 VA)


Sounds like your 260 is need of a little work. If you are interested in selling it, let me know.

I'd size the chain to the saw. 18" on ~50cc saw is about as big as I would go. 16" will not bog as much on a saw that size.

    Bookmark   April 6, 2009 at 12:59PM
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i currently have a couple of huskys and 2 stihls, 260 and 361 i reaaly like the 260, but the 361 is an awesome saw and will outperform the 390. i am buyintg a 460 or 441 next, i want the 460 but it has no antivibe. its so confusing and i can see it wont stop till i have 10 saws, i mean i have firewood coming out of my ears and its not enough. i seem to get a lot of really large hardwood that most folks dont want to deal with, at least i know i do not want an 880, 660 is as big as i go, well for now

    Bookmark   April 7, 2009 at 1:00AM
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Hi All. I've just purchased a Shindaiwa 377. I've been reading (too much) comments on this and other sites. I got spooked with the Stihl vs. Husky debates back and forth (chevy vs. ford) and got the Shin. Sooooo....did I just screw up royally? The Shindaiwa was the only brand that everyone said decent things about. I will be mostly limbing with an occasional 16" tree to lay down. Got it for $294 and it seemed like the listing aspects could not be had on a comparable sthil for anywhere near the same price and too many bad comments about Huskys. Let me know if you think I will be wishing I had spent the extra $200 anytime soon. many thanks.

    Bookmark   April 16, 2009 at 11:24PM
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masiman(z7 VA)

In that range of the MS170, MS180, Dolmar 401(?) the Shindy is supposed to be one of the best ones (inexpensive homeowner saw). It is a fine saw for light around the yard work. Easy to take anywhere and harder to get in trouble with. You did fine.

    Bookmark   April 16, 2009 at 11:43PM
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Hi I am stuck on my decision to purchase either a Stihl MS310 or the Huskie 455 Rancher. I cut about 50 cord of wood a year and need a saw that can keep up. My dad cuts 100 cord of wood a year, and he has had the Huskie Rancher 55 (the old verision of the 455) for 4 years and will swear by it. But i heard that Huskies are not what the used to be ever since they added the Smog control. Any suggestions? Thanks.

    Bookmark   April 18, 2009 at 2:54PM
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masiman(z7 VA)

If you really cut that much wood a year, I think you would do better with an MS361. As for the difference between a 310 and 455, I don't know much about those particular models. I'd go with which one you can better service for.

I think you would really like that 361 though.

    Bookmark   April 18, 2009 at 6:14PM
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Hey, the mid-small saws are what just about everybody has. If you cut alot of wood you will be much happier with a larger saw. At least 50 cc or larger, with a 24" - 28" bar.

There are always bigger trees and you will need the power.
Also, learn to sharpen it yourself. I would'nt worry too much about a dealer.

Stihl or Husky are both excellent. I have a Husky 288XP 88 cc w/28"(10 yrs.) & its unstopable.

Let your buddy get the 35 cc saw and stay away from Sweetgum.

    Bookmark   June 4, 2009 at 12:39AM
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Oh, I forgot one comment>>

First we will log the Earth, then we will worry about the other planets.

    Bookmark   June 12, 2009 at 3:09AM
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alot of you may or may not have heard of dolmar. but dont worry i thought they were a joke till i watched em cut the next day i bought one great saw expensive but if you take care of it it will last a life time. but the ps 7900 is what i got it was $800 but is 79cc and has more tarqe and cuts hoter than the husky 3210xp witch is 118.8cc and costs $1700.the biger stihls are powerful but cut slow and have chep plastic to much money for a beginer saw

    Bookmark   June 21, 2009 at 10:01PM
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What is the best bar and chain oil for Husky 450 and MS 290 Sthil?What is the fastest chain for both listed saws.

    Bookmark   May 25, 2010 at 1:03AM
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I just got the Stihl MS 311. It came with a 22' bar. So far it has plenty of power and cuts great. Just wondering if I should go to a smaller 16' bar? Should give me more cutting power and make shorter work on the cuts? Have some large trees but I can work around that with a 16'. Then again with a longer bar I don't have to bend over as far getting the limbs!!!

Here is a link that might be useful: Stihl vs. Husqvarna Chainsaw purchase

    Bookmark   July 25, 2010 at 3:41PM
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I broke down and bought a Stihl MS 660 magnum! WOW! Nice saw and it cuts GREAT! Has a 36" bar. Making short order of all the wood around here!

    Bookmark   August 1, 2010 at 2:04PM
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A little Over Kill for anyone but a Comercial Arborist , but never have to worry ifin ya have enough Saw for the Tree lol !

    Bookmark   August 1, 2010 at 5:17PM
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masiman(z7 VA)

A 660 is nice if you have big trees to take down and make rounds with but otherwise it is too heavy. I wouldn't use one for firewood cutting, I'd want something in the 65-80cc range.

    Bookmark   August 2, 2010 at 4:40PM
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The MS361 is a fantastic saw. I have used one for big timber for years and it never fails.

    Bookmark   November 2, 2010 at 6:19PM
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For: Yep 361 has to be one of the better saws Stihl has produced recently . The 362 just has to many issues with starting and idle reliability .

    Bookmark   November 3, 2010 at 5:02AM
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i love all the stihl people making comments on husqvarna saws.most haven't even run one,if they had they would know that huskys run circles around stihl.i have a old 55 rancher and it destroys my ms290.i have a 5100s dolmar it will smoke my 290 stihl and its 6cc smaller.i dont even get out my 357xp much.i wanted to get a light limbing small wood saw,so like a moron i listened to all the praise of the ms211 and bought too is under has 16" bar and haven't cut any thing bigger than 10 inches with it. i should have bought the husqvarna 435.i just liked the looks of the stihl.they do make the best looking saws.i still have my 100cc pro mac,made in sweden by partner.that saw has cut over 1000 cords of wood and still runs great.its never had the carb off.only replaced fuel lines and filter and pull rope in 40 years.that should tell you something about Swedish quality.why do you think almost all the guys on the TV logging shows are running husky xp's?.because they get the job done.

    Bookmark   November 13, 2010 at 2:09AM
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Mike: You won't get any argument from me on either Husky or Stihl or Pioneer for that matter. I own a Pioneer 11-60 and P-20 both Pro Class for over 40 yrs and they still cut like the day they came out of the box . I have had Husky Rancher 455 , 266 SE and Stihl MS-026 and MS-036 . Gave them too Associates along the way . Currently have a Husky Rancher 460 and a Stihl MS-260 Pro . My Son went with the Husky 346-XP and MS-361 that I serviced for a friend and likes them .

    Bookmark   November 13, 2010 at 9:06AM
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Mike: In summary of my previous Note . There will always be debate over which manufacturer is best . Dolmar , Solo , Echo and Efco Shindaiwa also make fine Prosumer and Professional Units . Only PoulanSaws of late are on my X list for Girly Saws...E ! Welcome aboard Bro :)

    Bookmark   November 13, 2010 at 9:11AM
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please note: I blame myself for my situation. I know better than to buy something without checking the web and ignored that thinking that as long as the saw had anti-vibe, auto-oil and a chain brake, that it would get the job I needed done, without much trouble. I was wrong.

I have a Husqvarna 435 that is 38 days old that i paid $270+ tax which I would sell today for $100 and feel I cheated the person. My last saw was/is a Stihl (over 25 yrs old - I still have it and after reading this thread, am thinking about fixing it instead of seeking a new stihl) and I might end up tomorrow going and buying a new one.

The Husqvarna so stinks! It might be a decent saw if it had a motor that ran worth a darn. I would fiddle with the carb but I can't reach the controls and though I haven't done the homework yet, I'm certain I will need to buy some special tool to get the job done. Why wasn't the tool included with the saw? From what little bit of homework I have done to reach this site, I can already tell that the company expects you to need to adjust the carb after cutting 10 cord or so (this I think was in respect to another of their saws, but I would assume they would all need the adjustment after the saw gets broken in, based on what I read).

Man they stink. They could have at least made me aware so I could have bought the darn tool when I was at the store but instead ...

If after reading this you still buy a Husqvarna, you're getting what you deserve. I wish I had done my homework and read this thread before I went and threw away $300 because at this point that is exactly what i have done. I can't justify wasting any more time on the saw.

Thank you for your opinions and this thread.

    Bookmark   December 20, 2010 at 8:04PM
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Updating: I'm man enough to admit when i am wrong. I'm still wondering how you adjust the carb but anyway while messing with trying to figure that out ... I pulled the spark plug just for the heck of it more than anything - that and I remembered something someone said either here or similar thread I stumbled across ... where a poster had said it is usually something small that is the problem but people are ready to throw the saw away.

Long story shortened is the plug was cleaned though it didn't look bad at all, and i cleaned the air filter but it wasn't very dirty either, anyway one was in need because the saw is at least back to its ... what I consider inferior capabilities (compared to my old stihl, 25 yrs good to me).

And who knows? maybe if I ever figure out how to adjust the carb it will run better than I ever imagined because its not terrible now.

    Bookmark   December 21, 2010 at 12:36AM
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You might want to take it a small engine shop to get adjusted, if you find a good one they might show you how. A lot of new saws nodays need adjusting when new thanks to being set to lean too meet EPA regulations. Steve

    Bookmark   December 21, 2010 at 4:33AM
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Bond: You may wish to try some carb cleaner (2 ounces) within fresh fuel . If you bought this unit from a box store you may have ethanol fuel issues, since the units come with fuel added. The 445 would have bumped you up a few cc and ensure a Walbro Carb . I realize this is an after thought but the Landowner Series Unit (Prosumer) is a little better class of saw for about 50 - 70 bucks more . If the cleaning does not help as Steve has advised drop it off to a Repair Shop for Service . If you had requested help Steve or I would have Steered you towards a Echo CS-400 or a Efco 147 Models more cc and Pro Class Units for only 30 - 50 bucks more . All the Best and keep us Posted Bro ! :)

    Bookmark   December 21, 2010 at 10:57AM
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just looking at this page there is a lot that you have all said but it all depends on the person using the saw to what make/class suits you there isn't much in it between the 2 saws it depends on the what one you prefer to use i think i have worked as a tree surgeon for 2 and a half years and am now doing a national diploma in forestry and arb colcher decide what saw works for you the best as your only chopping smalltrees it dont matter that much any saw will do the job its only when you go to big trees that you have to go for a big saw!!

    Bookmark   December 23, 2010 at 12:03PM
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luke: Your very correct within the larger Size Saw only required for larger felling and bucking sessions . I usually use a 60 cc class saw for felling and bucking and a 50 cc class saw for limbing . The saws that bond are referring to are fine for occasional limbing and felling of smaller lawn size trees . Hopefully he will resolve his fuel restriction issues easily . I would personally keep the smaller Husky either way since it's a very light manuverable utility type saw. Also I agree that personal preference is the key , never buy a saw without trying it out first . I try always to use few diferent Manufacturers models prior to the final decision .

    Bookmark   December 26, 2010 at 12:35PM
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I just bought a 390xp 88cc Husky and my brother bought a 660 91cc Stihl, which one would you have went with for overall performance wise? Hope i made the right decision on choosing the husky?

    Bookmark   January 19, 2011 at 1:20AM
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Tim: You can't go wrong with either saw for larger trees. I have currently both Husky's and Stihl , much smaller than your new collection . But both my Huskys 348 XP & Rancher 460 both get used as frequently as the MS-260 . I like lighter saws for the limbing sessions . Enjoy your saw , use premium syn oil .

    Bookmark   January 19, 2011 at 5:36AM
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masiman(z7 VA)

Are you serious Tim? You spent that much money and you are wondering which one is better? Both saws are great. I couldn't say one is definitely better than the other, although I have never run a 390xp.

What did you all buy the saws for? I'm guessing you have a need to run a 30"+ bar somewhat regularly to justify laying out that kind of cash.

If I had to pick one, I'd go with the Stihl, but only because I can get better Stihl support around here than I can get Husky support. I assume the Husky has a full-wrap option? It is the only saw we use with that but it has been useful.

    Bookmark   January 19, 2011 at 2:24PM
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Mas: All the XP come Standard with the full wrap bar . Your right at 7 HP over 5 cu inch quite a lot of Saw . I have ran the former 365 & current 385 XP and the Stihl 660 Real world class Heavy Weights . However the 390 and newer 395 XP at over 17.b lbs are a Bear to lug around also unless your cutting some serious lumber lol . I agree that Dealer support would also be my deciding factor on the two saws in question for what there intended for either will do the job for years to come .

    Bookmark   January 20, 2011 at 5:32AM
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Just to keep things straight off the Husky web site.

390xp is 15.9# doesn't have a full wrap
395xp is 17.4# doesn't have a full wrap
395xpw is 17.9# has a full wrap Steve

    Bookmark   January 20, 2011 at 7:12AM
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Steve: I don't check Manufacturers Spec's often. More from personal working knowledge of the saws I have used . So I was surprised to see US listing as per your post. Here in Canada all XP designated saws come Standard with a full wrap handle standard. Also I see that in US XPW is now designated for full wrap feature .. interesting . Anyhow thanks for the clarification Bro !

    Bookmark   January 21, 2011 at 5:44AM
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Some suggested getting a Dolmar. My 5100 is two years old and worked good--when it worked. So far the cylinder has seized twice (using Husky 50:1) and had to get a new carb. I'm not going to waste any more time and money on it--replacing with a Stihl.

    Bookmark   January 31, 2011 at 10:54AM
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masiman(z7 VA)

If it seized twice I would guess it was either running lean or not enough oil. But you say you were running at 50:1 with Husky oil so running lean seems more likely. Was dealer involved in the seizing (repairing, set up, warranty, etc.)?

It sounds like you should move onto another brand but more because I think you can get better support. The 5100 is a very good saw. Dolmar just does not have wide ranging support in the US.

    Bookmark   January 31, 2011 at 12:34PM
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Right, running lean. Due to the EPA Dolmar had the specs at 14300 RPM to meet the emissions when these saws should be set at 13700 or so. A good dealer would have adjusted that. Steve

    Bookmark   February 1, 2011 at 7:27AM
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Absolutely Husky! I have owned multiple chainsaws none of which have lasted as long as my husqvarna. If fact I just bought my second husqvarna chainsaw after getting sucked in and watching this movie clip:
Anyway - I truly think that chainsaws are a "what you spend is that you get" type of item. Instead of buying a no-name chainsaw (or lesser name) every 2 years just buy a husqvarna chainsaw and have in for 10 years.

Husqvarna Chainsaw Info

Beyond that - larger bar and dia are always better. You never know what kind of work is ahead. Plus friends will always be asking chainsaw jobs... always side on the bigger saw.

Here is a link that might be useful: Power of Husqvarna Chainsaws

    Bookmark   February 1, 2011 at 9:25AM
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masiman(z7 VA)

Not quite sure what you mean by dia(meter) enorth.

I would definitely put a limit on the larger is better part. Most people can do all they need with a 16" ~50cc saw. If they have bigger stuff and are occasionaly users, the most I would recommend would be a 60-70cc saw with a 20" bar. After that, I think they should put a little more effort into working a saw before going to get an 80+cc saw.

Look for something light with a bar that could do most of what you want to do. I'd put light ahead of bar for everything. My best example is that I have an acquaintance that was just telling me this weekend about the nice Stihl that he has with a 24" bar he thinks. He likes the saw but doesn't like using it. He can only use it for 1/2 hour before it has tired him out. He was not sure what saw he had but my guess is that it is the MS390. He wishes he had something smaller and lighter because he very rarely needs all 24" of his bar.

A zippy 50cc saw with 16" bar is the most likely sweet spot for most homeowners.

    Bookmark   February 1, 2011 at 1:44PM
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I have a friend who owns a Chainsaw shop , he caries what he considers to be the top three brands , Husqvarna ,Stihl , and Echo. His personal saw is a Husky. I cut with three friends who all run Stihl. No comparison the Husky runs at a higher rpm , which spins that blade faster , which cuts more wood!

    Bookmark   April 6, 2011 at 9:21AM
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And as soon as you lean on smaller Husky saws they die where slighty lower RPM saws keep cutting. Steve

    Bookmark   April 7, 2011 at 8:04AM
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Yeah Steve, TORQUE

    Bookmark   April 7, 2011 at 8:04PM
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The better goes to husky. Higher rpm cuts quicker husky runs better with rich mix. Just a great tough saw.

    Bookmark   May 7, 2011 at 7:56PM
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It is funny Husky use to be a decent saw I have one and I barely used it over the 20 years I have had it, that being said getting any kind of replacement parts is difficult. The local Dealer orders what they think is the right part and when it arrives it is not. They seem to have had 3 or 4 different versions of the 45 in about 4 or 5 years and they can't use the serial number as a means to get and order the right part. I am also seeing Husky's in Lowes that tells me that they dropped the cost for them to sell them, most Stihl's are not sold at many big box stores more smaller dealers here in Michigan but from what I have heard Stihl is the way to go. It is funny I contacted Husky about gettinga good parts list for mine before thinking of buying a new one, mine might have 100 hours use on it and Husky reply your saw is too old and we don't provide parts lists to customers so you can have the number when your saw goes down. then they said it is time you buy a new saw yours is 20 years old. Looks like they have gone to the "throwaway" mentaility. Must be because one less saw they have to carry oarts for in the future. back 20 years ago you could get parts and good service that seems to be a thing of the past these days. I am hoping Stihl stands behind their saws... Before I buy one I am going to ask for a parts list so over time if I do need any parts I have the number so the Dealer can cross reference the part number if it does change like Husky's seem to do often...


    Bookmark   May 19, 2011 at 9:14PM
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There's no question that Stihl dealers are more professional as a whole. Walk in a box store and the best support you'll get will be from a 20 yr. old college kid that barely knows how to run the choke. That buy itself puts them above the rest. Performance can change by any number of factors (chain sharpness, chain type, fuel, sprocket size, comparing comparable saws, etc.). Good dealer support knows the "ins & outs" of the equipment they sell. Commonly found among Stihl dealers. If you're lucky, you can find a dealer that sells both Stihl & Husqvarna and they can show you the way to 2 lines of professional saws. Box stores typically don't handle a "pro" line, just a consumer series.

    Bookmark   June 19, 2011 at 10:54PM
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Given the choice of Stihl or Husqvarna, I think that it's the dealer service that'll make the difference. Where I live, the dealer that everyone I know uses has a Stihl factory-certified technician on staff who cut his teeth racing 20,000 rpm go-karts. Turns out he owns a Stihl MS 260, so that's what I bought, since I was looking for a 50 cc saw. Has 45 hours on it right now and runs great. OTOH, if this dealer had a Husqvarna-trained tech instead, I'd probably own a Husky 346 XP and would be perfectly happy with that.

    Bookmark   July 11, 2011 at 12:58AM
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I would never choose a Stihl tool again.
I can�t understand the postings here,where people praise the service and obtainability of Stihl spare parts.
These postings must be from Stihl itself,because my experience is absolutely negative,in view of Stihl service,obtainability of information and spare parts.
I have brought two chain saws for reparation.
The older one�s spare part took 6 weeks to arrive.The reparation did not succeed,and I never saw the machine again.
The new one I bought,gave within a forthnight trouble.
Back to the shop,and got two days later a box with all parts,and a shoulder shrug,on my question."What can be done?"
-Reason of faillure could be too little lub oil in fuel,so no garantee.This I must accept,because own fault.
Since then,I have tried to get the necessary spare parts in 8 different countries,without succes.
The nearest I got,was a shop,that advised me to buy a new chain saw,because the spare parts would be more expensive than a new tool...
Very interesting is the fact,that all mail,that I have send to various European importers of Stihl,are answered by my own countries Stihl importer,who keeps on referring me to his local dealer.(For personal reasons I don�t want to do Stihl-bussiness in this small village)
My advise for new buyers of garden- and other proffesional tools is:"Make a wide birth around Stihl" !!!!
No service,no advise.Spare parts badly obtainable,and if you want to do a repair yourself,Stihl obstucts you getting the needed spares!

    Bookmark   July 25, 2011 at 3:16AM
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Sounds like the original saw was older than you are,
but who can say, as you give no details.

    Bookmark   July 27, 2011 at 9:00PM
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George, as Fish has said without more information within Model or Year Designations were pretty well up the proverbal creek without a paddle . Must say though that Stihl usually has one of the finest Service Centres available witha Great Networking , at least within North America. I �m fortunate locally I have both Husky & Stihl Dealers at one location and college`s who run the same in Michigan. As for your newest saw any uit will fail if not maintained . I have numerous Finish friends locally that use Stihl and Husky while were at Moose Camp . Forward some further info and perhaps we can assist you .

    Bookmark   July 28, 2011 at 4:04PM
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I hear more stories about bad or horrible service from Stihl shops from my sawing customers . They don't get the problem fixed and charge a arm and leg. Steve

    Bookmark   July 30, 2011 at 8:10AM
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Can't speak for the Minnesota area Steve , only have frequented shops within Michigan , Ohio and Ill. within the US . Have frequented numerous within Ontairo Canada Southern to Northern areas . As previously mentioned have friends that operate Stihl / Husky Dealerships so i guess I could be biased . I have not heard any horror stories from personal experience within workmanship or quality of service , rather the high associated prices of repair which are a sign of the times . We will have to see if George is serious enough to supply further info within his concerns .

    Bookmark   July 30, 2011 at 12:09PM
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Just a couple of the most recent ones

A old guy I sawed for has a fairly new MS230 that was lacking power. The first Stihl shop put in a new plug and tuned it for $80 and it still didn't have any power.
The second Stihl shop did the same thing for $60 and still no power. He cleaned the muff screen himself and it ran good after spending $140.

Just last week I'm helping a guy with a 028 Super that had no power, he had it to the dealer twice to the tune of $100. It took me 2 minutes to set the carb right and it's been running good all week. More stories if you want, It's hard to find a good dealer of almost any brand any more, saws, cars , trucks , tractors etc. For you young guys learn how to work on a saw yourself, it's not hard and you'll be proud of yourself. Steve

    Bookmark   July 30, 2011 at 3:36PM
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Steve: I will take you at your word , since I know you have experience within saws. It's scary to hear that there are such incompetent or criminal Dealers out there. I have on ocassion over 50 yrs recieved less than stellar service or what I considered pricy service . This is the main reason I began at a rather young age doing my own tuning and repairs. This back in the Moto-Cross / Enduro days.
I have heard numerous stories of Shabby Service within auto , marine , snowmobile , but so far have experienced rather fair pricing and parts within my areas . Rather sad that these ethics or lack of working knowledge has spread within the saw nitche :( . Interesting and enlightening Thanx !

    Bookmark   July 30, 2011 at 4:43PM
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Quote:"fisher40037 (My Page) on Wed, Jul 27, 11 at 21:00

Sounds like the original saw was older than you are,
but who can say, as you give no details. "

@:Mr.Fisher,I don�t know,what your message is supposed to attribute to my posting about very bad service and customer-unfriendly treatment by the Stihl-concern.

It makes no difference,if my saw is 30 years old,or brand new.
When I need spare parts,I expect them to be available.
But Stihl obstructs systematically the availability of spare parts to private customers!
They take months,to obtain,and whenever available parts are sky high expensive..

About experience with all kinds of chain saws:My son has a fire wood business,and a brother-in-law has woods.
I do a lot of work for them,so I know my way around certain kind of tools and brands!

    Bookmark   July 31, 2011 at 4:07AM
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My 17yr old Husqvarna 51, with a 24" bar died. I only cut 4 or 5 cords a year plus some debris clearing. I like a 24" bar - don't have to bend over. Average rounds, usually from blow down, are 18/20" or less with an occasional 24" or so. It got fuel, bar oil and bar sprocket grease. Occasionally, more like rarely, replaced a fuel filter, plug, and cleaned the air filter. Never messed with the carb. I didn't baby this saw, I just used it. What do I want to look at?

    Bookmark   August 2, 2011 at 12:05AM
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Joel : Since your a Newbie we will give you a break and not whip you to Bad !

1st giving more info as to what the unit is doing or the last time your ran it would benefit . I can only assume from your note that you simply cannot fire the saw up .
Have you check for adequate fuel ? How about bright blue spark accross the sparkplug electrode when removed and properly grounded and pull cord utilized ? See what I mean you need to give adequate info for people to try to ascertain your situaton. If your plug is dry after priming and choking with fresh fuel mix then perhaps your fuel filter is plugged (you said rarely cleaned ?) . Secondary the fuel circuits if ethanol fuel is used without proper storage procedure are most likely restricted. Carb cleaning with tag wire and carb cleaner and compressed air is in order. The Inlet needle (under diaphram) or the inlet screen within the carb also could be gummed up . Last but not least if no or weak spark is evident spark plug or plug wire or on/off switch could be faulty or worst case scenerio ignition module has failed. Hope this is of some help with the limited symptoms that you have supplied . Feel free to enlighten us further Dude !

    Bookmark   August 2, 2011 at 10:32AM
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Hmm. Sorry I led you astray. My saw is dead. A couple hundred buck fix maybe for cylinder, piston and related stuff and it would be running. But it's not worth it I don't think on a tired 17yr old saw. When I said "what do I want to look at" I meant in the way of a new saw. Husqvarnas 455 maybe or whatever Stihls equivalent is? Or is the smaller Stihl 50/60cc stuff not up to snuff?

    Bookmark   August 2, 2011 at 1:26PM
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Roflmbo ! Ok now were on the same page no harm no foul !

If you liked the handling charateristics of the Husky 51 you might be interested in the New Rancher 460 . I personally just picked one up for my Son as a back up 6 mths ago. Built on a solid chassis and a capable fire wood (Hardwood) 63 cc cutting unit .
We also have a Husky 348 XP and a Stihl MS-260 both 50cc Pro Class limbing Units . Also you could go with the Echo or Efco Manf with a 400 or 152 Model . Personally not knowing how hard you are on your unit , I would probably go with the 460 as the best saw for the $$ for a weekend wood saw. Second would be the Echo for all around performance and again bang for your buck .

    Bookmark   August 2, 2011 at 5:59PM
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Georgevan, you still give absolutely no details!

I am not a defender of Stihl, but with no details at all,
how can anyone give your posts any credence???


    Bookmark   August 2, 2011 at 8:52PM
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I have no idea,to what kind of details you are referring to.

I have a very bad experience with the obtainabiltity of spare parts for my Stihl chain saw.
I tried through the whole of Europe,and even wanted to pay the exorbitant high prices,the shops asked.
But one after the other found strange excuses yust not to deliver...
I have the idea,that Stihl systematically obstructs customers to buy spare parts.
And I want prospective buyers to take this into account.

If it takes 6 weeks,for a simple membrane to arrive at the shop,where your Stihl saw is being repaired,and if it is impossible to obtain spare parts,for a brandnew Stihl
MS 192 C,there must be something wrong,with the way Stihl thinks to execute its bussines.
I might also point out the fact,that I sign with my own name.
People concerned know,who posts these critics,and are allowed,to comment!

    Bookmark   August 3, 2011 at 1:55AM
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George: I find it hard to believe that within the entire UK you cannot find diaphams for Stihl Saw on the shelf ? If not then within 2-3 day delivery . I would think that everyone would be aware that after the Sale Service is what keeps Dealers in Business. Warranty work at time and a half or more when authorized pays dividends . Having spare chains , sprockets , air filters or carb kits is the meat & potatoes of any Service Dealer. Now if your complaint was the cost of Parts not their availibility I could easily understand your issue with Stihl. Unfortunatley OEM Parts are not cheap for any Manufacturer these days. As ladylake has advised , I can believe the lack of Stellar workmanship in certain areas for whatever rational , but no parts availability ? Hell how do they stay in bussiness in Europe ? Thank God I live in the Great White North where you get what you pay for lol :)

    Bookmark   August 3, 2011 at 5:34AM
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I have a Stihl MS 360. What a piece of crap! I thought it would be my last saw. It replaced a Husky 65, bought 35 years ago, which never failed to start after 3 pulls and ran like a race car. The Stihl needs at least 5-10 pulls to ignite. Once it starts its pretty good. I run a 28" bar with a skip link chain. Today I tried to cut some dead Madrone. Saw started on first pull! What? After that not a thing. Sporadic spark. Bull sh@t spark plug wire design. Bullsh#t access. My husky NEVER saw the inside of a repair shop. Unfortunately I gave it away and it still runs beastly. I'll never buy a Stihl product again!

    Bookmark   August 27, 2011 at 9:16PM
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Thankfully I have both Stihl and Huskys that run like champs lol .

    Bookmark   August 28, 2011 at 5:36AM
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Most saws without a primer bulb will take 5 to 7 pulls to start if they've been sitiing for a while and should fire in 3 pulls if just sitting overnite. If the low adjuster id just a bit lean they will start hard. Steve

    Bookmark   August 28, 2011 at 6:53AM
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FWIW, I have had nothing but good experiences with any Stihl that I've owned and the few times that I needed parts that were not on the shelf took 2 days to get in. As for high pricing, I find that its Husqvarna that a bit high where its pro models are concerned.

    Bookmark   October 25, 2011 at 10:04AM
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Hello everyone, I'm new here but an old timer and this will be my first post. This has been a very interesting read and I gather that there are no conclusive choices- like someone said "ford/ chevy". I just wanted to throw in my 2-cnts.
I have a husky 61 which I bought new in '81 and have been cutting with ever since. GREAT saw as far as I'm concerned, it has never been to the shop- not once- just haven't had the need- no breakdowns. The first winter cutting was with a friend who had a contract to deliver 100 cord to dallas, tx. He started off this project with a new stihl (don't remember the model but it was @ the same size saw as mine). Anyway it craped out on his third tree- the dealer said it was improper fuel mix- NO F&^@#$! warranty. the fuel mix had already cut down two other trees with no trouble? WTH
We went to my husky dealer and he bought a husky 61. He is still happy with this saw as I am with mine.
Now I don't cut but @ 30 cord a year for family but this saw is a reliable beast. By the way I run a 20" roller tip with a rim sprocket. A little heavy maybe for the avg. homeowner but not bad.
After reading @ the parts problem with stihl I thought I'd check on parts for my saw and guess what- I can still get every part: cyl., piston, bearings/seals, crank/ connecting rod, even the screws, bolts and cosmetics. I think that's pretty good for a 30+ year old saw. Most are fairly priced also. So I guess I'll stick with the husky for now.
Sorry for the long post and I just noticed that this is a old topic from last year. Oh well- TIMBER!!!

    Bookmark   November 15, 2013 at 4:06AM
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Well I'll never boast about any of my equipment ever again!
Today I removed the clutch/ sprocket assembly from the Husky 61 to adjust (increase) the chain oiler. Then reinstalled the sprocket/ clutch and tightened it to 20 lbs. Before putting the bar and chain back on, I fired the saw up to check the chain oil volume flow. Suddenly the clutch and sprocket came flying off. Needless to say I was pissed and have spent the last 6 hours looking for the parts in a yard full of leaves- have only found two of the clutch dogs so far. I've been using a metal detector for over a year now so I thought it would be the fastest way.
My yard is about 85' wide with chain link fence on both sides and I have detected nearly all the area. Anyone have any idea how far the sprocket/clutch may have traveled in the air before hitting the ground?
Also can anyone tell me how tight the clutch should be since apparently 20 lbs torque was not enough.
Thanks for the help on this one.

    Bookmark   November 16, 2013 at 1:09AM
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Always have the bar and chain on and cut some wood right away , that will tighten the clutch if you didn't get it tight enough. I've done the same thing. Steve

    Bookmark   November 16, 2013 at 8:00AM
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Wow ! Time sure does fly by . Forgot about this old Post . Don't own the MS-260 any longer but have purchased a Big Bore Dolmar and a CS-500P Echo Screamer recently . Have 8 Cord of Maple Split and neatly Piled for later this winter along with over 200 lbs of Venision to cut smoke and wrap lol .

    Bookmark   November 16, 2013 at 10:44AM
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Thanks Steve, appreciate the advice. I have been able to find the clutch hub, two of three dogs (weights) and the tension spring. The spring is toast but I have found one on e-bay for $5.oo (new)- not to bad. Still need to find that other dog though. pita.

    Bookmark   November 16, 2013 at 11:15PM
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winston001(New Zealand)

Great discussion. I'm in New Zealand and have been a happy Stihl owner for 18 years. Details later.

I mainly use an 066 which I love but it is a heavy beast. Am thinking about buying an MS211 for the lighter cutting work. I do have access to an old 009 but haven't tried it yet.

Any thoughts? Would the MS231 be a better choice bearing in mind that it is heavier and something light is important?

    Bookmark   December 17, 2013 at 5:40AM
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blueseatx(z7 TX)

I have owned 2 Husqvarna rancher chainsaws and 2 Stihl 260 chainsaws. I dread using the Stihl chainsaws because Stihls are extremely hard to start. Iwear myself out pulling the starter cord before I even start cutting wood. My Husqvarnas start on the 1st or 2nd pull everytime. I would not trade my Husqsaws for anything. The stihls I would. I hate those saws.

    Bookmark   May 10, 2014 at 5:55PM
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2 things would make your 260 hard to start , the low adjuster set too lean and the choke not closing good.. Try opening the low adjuster about 1/3 turn, you might have to turn the idle speed screw in some. I think the choke is in the air filter and a mickey mouse setup, best to buy a new air filter.. Steve

    Bookmark   May 11, 2014 at 6:53AM
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I have used stihls and I have used Husqvarna's and the huskies are far better then the stihls. Huskies have never failed me and i use them almost 12 hr's days and the stihls with in the first 3 i always end up having problems out of..Go with Husqvarna for the money they will never fail you..

    Bookmark   January 27, 2015 at 8:47PM
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but if you are looking for a cheap good saw then go to ebay and buy you a blue max mine paid for it's self the 1st day i used it and the 2nd day was nothing but profit depending on which one you buy you can get one with a 14" bar and a 20" bar combo for around $180 or less and get it with a 3yr warranty as well and they do eat wood like Heck quicker then any stihl does and does pretty good and give the huskies a run for the money

    Bookmark   January 27, 2015 at 8:53PM
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I have a 32 year old Husky and two Stihls. Can't get the parts I need to overhaul the Husky so it's been retired. The Husky was always difficult to start, but ran well once started and warmed up. Oiler was the weak part on the saw and was replaced twice.

The Stihls seem to be sensitive to the type of gasoline used. They nearly refuse to start with gas that has ethanol. In fact, I used to dread trying to start them. I often pulled the sparkplug and squirted fuel directly in the cylinder to get them to fire cold.

To cure the starting problem, I started using Stihl MotoMix, or VP 50:1. That cured the starting problem but the fuels are expensive. To reduce the cost a bit, I purchased 5 gallons of Torco 100 UL and mix it with the Stihl oil,

The saws start on 4-5 pulls after sitting for 2-3 weeks, and will start on the first pull if they just sit a short time, like 1-3 days. My friend who runs Huskys commented that he'd never seen saws start that fast.

My suggestion to those complaining about Stihls being hard to start is to use better fuel, and make sure the gas does not have ethanol.

Stihl recommends 92 octane and my experience with the saws is that they work better with the higher octane fuels.

Will have a Stihl 461 to add in to my other two saws within about 4 weeks and expect it will run as well as the two that I currently own.

In reality, it comes down to dealer support and the Stihl dealer I use is 7 miles from my house, has most parts in stock, and can get whatever I need from Stihl in 3-5 days (they order parts once a week).

Husky, Jonsered (Red Husqvarna), Dolmar, Stihl - all good saws - to me it comes down to the dealer - although the Stihl bars and chains seem to be better than factory equipment from other manufacturers.

    Bookmark   January 27, 2015 at 10:15PM
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ray_and_laura(North Calif.)

I find all this discussion about the importance of the dealer curious. Unless a guy is mechanically helpless or doesn't want to spoil his manicure what do you need the dealer for except the original purchase? Consumables like spark plugs, carb kits and chains are available from online sellers. Anyone familiar with 2-stroke engines can diagnose malfunctions.

Dealers refuse to make any performance enhancing engine modifications. For example they are not allowed to substitute adjustable carbs for factory installed non adjustable ones. That job is easily accomplished by a home mechanic. When I made that conversion over 10 years ago on my Stihl 026 starting and power delivery were vastly improved. I found the adjustable carb on ebay because the local Stihl dealer refused to sell it to me unless I brought the saw to him, he verified that the saw was originally equipped with an adjustable carb AND he installed it.

A guy named "Butch" (is he still here ?) told me that I'm subject to a $25,000 fine for making that conversion. No, I'm not making that up.

The original poster can chose a consumer or pro quality saw based on his intended use and then chose a Stihl or Husky based on which in a given size performs best at the cash register. It's worth remembering that the official Stihl corporate policy is to sell parts only through "authorized" dealers but those parts are abundant from online sellers. Husky doesn't play those games.

My personal land clearing and firewood cutting Stihl 026 has been working hard for me since 1999 and still rips. When I pull off the muffler to clean it and look at the piston through the exhaust port the piston still looks nearly new with not a trace of scuffing and the hone marks are still visible on the cylinder bore. Those must be some quality parts.

When it became hard to start a couple of years ago a carb kit for the swapped-on adjustable carb bought from an online seller solved that problem.

I's suggest finding the best price and don't worry about relying on the dealer unless you don't want to get your hands dirty occasionally. But how many guys with chain saws are against getting their hands dirty?


    Bookmark   January 27, 2015 at 11:20PM
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If you have the tools and knowledge of two stroke engines by all means do it yourself. However, you still need the dealer for warranty service if required and thanks to Mr Nader and his merry band of zealots special equipment is now needed to troubleshoot and repair. The dealer also has the latest service information. That is why my newest saw is 30 years old. I have also found from experience the internet is not always the most cost effective or reliable source, aftermarket parts are often over priced and poor quality..

Regarding modification at the dealer level, you are absolutely correct. Liability is a huge issue. He is handcuffed by strict emission laws, he can be fined $3700 dollar for selling you a carb adjusting tool. I call b.s.too but that is the way it is.

    Bookmark   February 9, 2015 at 11:48AM
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I have a 1977 Stihl 041 Farmboss. When I bought a the saw, I would cut a cord of white oak , load it into the pick up with 4' sides, and drive it home 25 miles before clocking in at "Yahd for the second shift.. I never had any trouble with the saw. It has a 16 " which is plenty big enough for 99% of the trees I've cut with it. Even that 1% was carved down with a little extra cutting. I like the Stihl because I can always start it , even on 2 yr old mix ,on the original ignition and a Champion plug of unknown provenance. Ive patched the die cast case with straps, rivets and JB Weld. It doesnt have a chain brake, Instead ,about 25 yrs ago, I lost the throttle stop screw. It will die unless my finger is on the trigger. Doesn't matter it will start on the first pull.. I have worn out 2 starter dogs though. An easy R+R of a 10$ part. It is spec'ed for a 40:1 mix. I have run an oily 32:1 since day one. I just run hardware store oil. Never have fouled a plug or clogged a muffler. I run it full throttle when cutting Its been a great all round saw.

    Bookmark   February 10, 2015 at 4:27PM
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"I's suggest finding the best price and don't worry about relying on the dealer unless you don't want to get your hands dirty occasionally. But how many guys with chain saws are against getting their hands dirty?"

"Anyone familiar with 2-stroke engines can diagnose malfunctions."

Maybe - maybe not. The new saws have lot of electronics, including electronic ignition modules, self adjusting carburetors, etc.

Has nothing to do with "getting your hands dirty" - and everything to do with parts availability and diagnosing problems past old style 2-stroke motors.

Buying parts off of the Internet is an iffy proposition in many cases as the manufacturer will often update the part - and that includes a new part number to distinguish it from the old part number. That's one of the reasons Stihl insists on selling parts only through authorized dealers - to make sure the customer actually gets the correct part.

As and example - I have a shredder / blower that was put away in October, and when I pulled it out in January it refused to start. Had gas, had spark - no start. Took it to the dealer at 8:30 AM. Came back at 12:15 PM and he said, "Here's your blower, it needed an updated ignition module." Total cost? $0.00. Dealer said, "You bought it from us - no charge to fix it."

That's why I continue to buy equipment from that dealer and why I think a good dealer is an important component of the equipment purchase - I get good support from the dealer, they help me keep the equipment running. Less down time, for me, is important.

If you have want to futz around and piddle away time waiting for parts to arrive from Internet purchases - fine. Not everybody has that mindset.

    Bookmark   February 10, 2015 at 7:08PM
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