Homelite Chainsaw questions

Pooh BearDecember 16, 2006

I have here a Homelite chainsaw, Model number is UT105114.

Label on the side says Homelite XL Automatic Oiling.

I measured the bar as best I could and seems to be about 12 inches.

This saw has been sitting in storage for a long time.

It may have had fuel in it when it was put in storage.

So what do I need to do to get this saw working.

I guess the first thing is to put some fuel mix in it

and pull the rope a few times to see what happens.

When that doesn't work, what next.

And how many ounces of oil per gallon for the fuel mix.

I checked the Homelite website and couldn't find that model number.

Thanks.

Pooh Bear

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canguy(British Columbia)

The UT was their catalogue and is really only useful if you have the IPL. Pick the saw up by the starter handle, if comppression holds it from dropping you should be ok. At the very least you will need a carb kit, fuel line and an in tank filter. Is your saw blue or red? If blue it was built before 1970. Lots of power but wear ear protection, it will bark.

Here is a link that might be useful: XL-AO

    Bookmark   December 17, 2006 at 10:56AM
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Pooh Bear

It is red.
My Dad told me it was a new saw and
it has less than an hour's run time on it.
Then it was put in storage and never used again.

I looked at that link. Thanks.
The picture in the link doesn't look like my saw.

Thanks.

Pooh Bear

This is my saw.

    Bookmark   December 17, 2006 at 1:41PM
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thawk1(z6 SE.Pa)

Poo Bear,I have the same saw,I found it in the trash.I didn't put much effort into it,just a clean up and it ran.
I run the same gas mix as all my other 2 stroke engines,50/1.I know others will argue that thats not good but the only time Ive hurt an engine is when I use the wrong can with no oil at all.
By the way I also have a 150 Automatic Homelite,its pretty old, and a 200 Classic. They both run but live on the shelf.The 200 came to me because it wouldn,t run almost from new,a looksee found ign wires bared as they passed by the fly wheel.It needs the black plastic cover for the choke and carb area if anyone has a source I'd be happy to hear.
Tim

    Bookmark   December 17, 2006 at 2:05PM
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echoman

The XL'S were pretty decent little saws. My late grandfather had one years ago and loaned it to someone who put oil in the gas tank, and gas in the oil tank. Couldn't figure out why it didn't run right! Duh! Go figure! After a thorough carb cleaning and rebuild along with a new oil pump diaphram, that little saw ran well until some heathans broke into his barn and stole it. If you're still trying to get it to run without tearing it down, that saw was a 32:1 mix ratio which is 4 oz of oil to 1 gallon of gas. I'm sure you can safely even run a 40:1 or 50:1 semi synthetic or fully synthetic oil with no problems. 3.2 oz oil for 40 and 2.6 for a 50:1. Make it happy and run clean, and stick with the 40:1. Add about 2 oz of SEA FOAM engine cleaner to 1 gallon for a good cleaning of the carb. After that, 1 oz per gallon for pm. Used it for years with good results. I haven't had a gas related carb problem due to gum or varnish in over 20 years running my equipment. Just read the directions on the can. Let us know how you make out with it.

    Bookmark   December 17, 2006 at 4:45PM
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Pooh Bear

That's some great info. Thanks.
I was thinking 50:1, 2.6 ounces per gallon.
But I'll mix it at 32:1, 4 ounces per gallon.

I'll be trying it out in the next day or so.
Sounds and feels like it has good compression when I pull the rope.
I'll put fuel mix in it and see what happens.

Thanks.

Pooh Bear

    Bookmark   December 17, 2006 at 8:27PM
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canguy(British Columbia)

Homelite got a little confusing with their XL designations. I had forgotten about that little guy, of course the XL Automatic and the XL-AO were completely different. The latter was an XL12 fitted with an automatic oiler.
You have a great homeowner/camp saw but don't spend a ton of money on it. A lot of parts like point sets and rewind springs are obsolete and very scarce. You also have the early style tank caps with the internal threads.

    Bookmark   December 17, 2006 at 9:09PM
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Pooh Bear

This chainsaw has automatic chain oiling.
Someone told me to only use bar and chain oil for this.
And not to use regular motor oil or it would mess up the oiler.
Is this true. Or can I use plain old 10w-30.

I just today mixed up some fuel for it.
2 ounces of 2 cycle oil to 1/2 gallon of gas.
Maybe tomorrow I will get a chance to try and crank it up.

Thanks.

Pooh Bear

    Bookmark   January 2, 2007 at 9:44PM
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kylaba

You do not have to use only bar & chain oil in it. 10w 30 won't hurt the chainsaw, but it has serious disadvantages. It will be depleted much faster than bar oil, because it is thinner and also does not have the additive that makes it stick to the chain. So the chain will throw most of the oil off. Therefore it's recommended to use bar oil. It is much better.
You are mixing the 2 cycle oil correctly. That is a 32:1 ratio, or 4 oz. oil to 1 gal. gasoline.

    Bookmark   January 3, 2007 at 8:36AM
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Pooh Bear

I checked. B+C oil is comparatively priced with motor oil.
So I might as well use the stuff made for it.

Thanks.

Pooh Bear

    Bookmark   January 3, 2007 at 11:39AM
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Pooh Bear

I got a gallon of B+C oil today ($7).
A gallon should last me a LONG time.
I put fuel mix in the saw and started pulling the rope.
Took a few pulls but it finally started.
After that it started very easy every time.

I didn't use SeaFoam in the fuel mix.
I used Stabil instead. About a 1/4 ounce for the 1/2 gallon.

This seems like a great little saw for me.
Thanks for helping me get it running.

Pooh Bear

    Bookmark   January 3, 2007 at 9:01PM
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roeb

Tim: The part no. for the Air Filter Cover for the 200 saw is 02481 or 02481A. It will be hard to find as I have quiet a few old Homelite parts and do not have it. I went to www.homelite.com and they no longer have it. You might get one from Bill Walcott at billwalcott@gmail.com. If not you may have to use some good tape...

    Bookmark   January 13, 2007 at 3:55PM
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bytehoven

You might note there are a couple of things which contribute to making your XL a little more dangerous.

1) it's a top handle saw, which is more difficult to control during kickback from the bar tip contact.

2) there is not chain break safety handle to engage when the saw kickback.

I have both an XL and XL Super given to be by a friend which are a similar condition to your saw. I plan to work them over in the spring and keep them around as back up saws. However, I would prefer to use one of my Stihl saws if I can because of the up to date safety features.

Bottom line... just take a little extra caution when using this saw, and especially avoid one handing the saw, which is very easy to do with such a lite saw.

    Bookmark   January 14, 2007 at 1:11AM
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thawk1(z6 SE.Pa)

Roeb,thanks for the info on the 200.I'll try Bill Walcot.
Thanks Tim

    Bookmark   January 14, 2007 at 7:42AM
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Pooh Bear

My saw won't see a lot of use.
In fact, I bought a gallon of bar and chain oil,
and I expect it to last me the rest of my life.
I rarely need a chainsaw, but when I do, I really need one.

Pooh Bear

    Bookmark   January 14, 2007 at 11:24PM
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walcott_oz-online_net

The safety question of the small HOMELITE saws is handled with a Safety Tip that is almost 'kickback proof'. It is easily removable (1 bolt) when you need to use the tip to cut and it makes a pretty good skid plate if you are close to the ground.
I do have a large HOMELITE inventory of new & used parts.
You can also reach me at either email address. Include your phone# so I can call if needed.

    Bookmark   January 26, 2007 at 7:07PM
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patrick123

I have a Homelite XL UT#105064, Ser#790040539. What size bar & chain should this saw have? It appears that the chain is too large for the bar since the adjustment screw is turned out and chain is still loose. I also have the manual if anyone needs a copy, will send to you email.. Thanks, Pat

    Bookmark   October 25, 2007 at 3:47PM
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canguy(British Columbia)

The chain could be stretched from wear in the rivets. You could shorten it by removing one drive link but replacing it would be safer. If it is a Homelite bar, the stamped numbers should indicate the chain size and drive link count.

    Bookmark   October 25, 2007 at 11:50PM
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patrick123

Thanks canguy.. I checked the bar for stamped #'s but did not find any. Where would the #'s be located? Thanks, Pat

    Bookmark   October 28, 2007 at 10:42AM
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canguy(British Columbia)

It may not be the original bar. Lay the chain out on the table (when your wife is not looking) and count the drive tangs in pairs. If you have 53 that would be a 14" bar, 59 would indicate 16".

    Bookmark   October 28, 2007 at 3:16PM
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rmh3481

My XL uses what is called 3/8 'low profile' bar and chain. .050 gauge. The little red will run a 16 inch bar and chain, but thats as long as I would go. Great climbing or limbing saw.

Best wishes,
Bob.

    Bookmark   November 4, 2007 at 2:06AM
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daddysgirl_1967

My Dad just called me about his Homelite XL 12" UT #105064 Serial #70020265 Claims the oil hose is loose and he thinks he lost a part while he was cutting wood. Wanted me to see what I could find out for him so that he can fix it. If anyone can help me I would appreciate it.

    Bookmark   November 5, 2007 at 3:13PM
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adkinsca(AL)

daddysgirl,

I suspect the model number that you have entered is incorrect, but if you go to the homelite website, you can get to a parts order website that will show an exploded view for many of their saws.

Try entering XL12 at the search, and it will show many model numbers for this saw type. Maybe you can show your Dad the exploded parts view to let him see if he can tell if a part is missing.

Good luck...

Here is a link that might be useful: Homelite parts order website

    Bookmark   November 5, 2007 at 8:11PM
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billw(5b - Kansas)

daddysgirl_1967 ...
His saw was last made in 1978.
There are 2 oil lines... the pressure & the oil delivery.
The (short)pressure line should have a gold looking tube with a duck-billed valve on the end.
Both lines should have been replaced due to age.
I have them in stock
Bill...785-562-3539 or email bill walcott at gmail

    Bookmark   November 15, 2007 at 1:48AM
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roger234

Poohbear2762,

I have a Homelite saw almost identical to yours. The label that shows the model number on it has completely worn off on mine. I am attempting to get parts in order to get it working again but without the model number I am unable to do so. If it's not too much trouble could you please tell me what the model number on your saw is? This will aid me immensely in finding parts for my saw. Thanks.

    Bookmark   March 10, 2008 at 9:55PM
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billw(5b - Kansas)

roger234
The saw is a XL. I would be almost identical to either of the saws above. The only difference would be a solid state Module instead of Points,coil & condenser. If you need further ID, contact me as without a specific UT# the exact Model wil only be close.
Bill Walcott
785-562-3539

    Bookmark   March 21, 2008 at 11:29PM
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serge77

I have a Homelite XL Automatic Oiling chain saw, UT No. 10565, Model 7G2000134. The engine runs well, but the chain locks up as soon as it starts. Evidently the clutch needs repairing or replacing. Does anyone know if parts are still available for this saw? Is it worth repairing? Any advice will be appreciated. The saw was given to me. There is no manual.

Serge

    Bookmark   May 12, 2008 at 4:33PM
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billw(5b - Kansas)

The XL, XL2 and Super 2 were/are some of the lightest saws and are very handy for light trimming.
The chain may be jammed due to the sprocket being worn out or the chain has stretched to the point it no longer fits.
>>>poohbear2767I have parts for HOMELITE saws in stock
Bill...785-562-3539 or email billwalcott at gmail

    Bookmark   May 21, 2008 at 12:30AM
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meff101_msn_com

Just found these postings. I've got an XL just like in the picture from poohbear. Mine is stamped with "105074" above the serial no. I'm in need of a chain, the bar is prox. 14" from end to end. Is this then a 14" chain? This is one my dad had from years ago, like the others decided it was time to dust it off and get it running. Started it up month or so ago and seemed to run great, now for the proper chain. Also noticed that the gas tank (plastic) has a hole in the top of it, did manage to make plug and patch, but may need new one.

    Bookmark   June 10, 2008 at 5:51PM
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billw(5b - Kansas)

Meff5031
Do NOT Plug that hole!
It should have a duck-billed valve to keep from creating a vacuum in the tank as the fuel is sucked out.
Your bar is a 12". The 14" bar is about 16 3/4" long overall.
I have chains for your saw... However it can take the following bar & chain sizes: 8", 10", 12", 14" or 16".
You should look at the drive sprocket as it is probably too worn for a new chain.
I have the DB Valve and almost any other part for your saw.
billwalcott@gmail.com
785-562-3539

    Bookmark   June 13, 2008 at 11:10PM
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denny714

sirs where can I find an operaters manual for my xl 12 chainsaw,model 1944752? It is old and is painted blue.also I need to know what sparkplug it uses.

    Bookmark   June 25, 2008 at 9:52PM
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denny714

My nest question is,My XL12 chainsaw (Homelite) calls for a oil gas ratio of 1/2 pint of oil to a gallon,of gas, Should I stay with that or can I use 32:1 ratio also. Your answer would be appreciated. It is quite old. Denny714

    Bookmark   June 25, 2008 at 10:03PM
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nascarfan9

i have a homelite 2 /V1 super...the vent tube for the fuel tank is missing need to know where it runs to ??....your help is much needed ty .....jim

    Bookmark   June 26, 2008 at 9:52PM
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mikej-07

I also have an old XL model # 10694. the bar and chain are worn. It has a 14" on it now, can i safely change it to a 16"? I am thinking of going with an Oregon setup because of the anti kickback chain. Is that a good choice?

Thanks

Mike

    Bookmark   July 2, 2008 at 8:51AM
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billw(5b - Kansas)

nascarfan9
JIM
I have the Duck Billed rubber Valve $2.00 that plugs that hole and almost any other part for your saw.
billwalcott@gmail.com
785-562-3539

mikej-07 NY
MIKE
A 16" bar is OK, but do not expect it to cut a big log very fast. I does only have a 1.6 c.i. motor. The OREGON 91 chain is very good. I recommended you pre-soak the chain in Bar Oil before using it if it has not been used in a week.
BTW I have the OREGON 16" Bar & Chain for $39.97
Bill

    Bookmark   July 5, 2008 at 4:24PM
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tazman2525

Hey

I have a 1968 Homelite Chainsaw Model XL-12
Ser. # 2492558

I need a gas line for the saw the part # for the gas line is #63744A , #63745A
Anyone who has any information of where I can get the gas line from please contact me at stang4889@yahoo.com

Thank you,

Shaun

    Bookmark   July 30, 2008 at 12:36AM
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fred69

My dad left me a red Homelite XL (105074), that he rarely used. He used 16:1 mix and it smoked quite a bit. It did for me too so I switched to a 40:1 mix I have for another saw and the smoke is MUCH less. I don't expect to use it a lot, but is 40:1 OK? Also, there are 2 adjustment screws above the choke lever, one has a spring. Which is idle adjustment and what is the other for? Also, is there supposed to be a baffle under the muffler cover? Would appreciate your help.

    Bookmark   August 15, 2008 at 10:53PM
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rcmoser

Those two screws should have a high and low beside them??? if so they are the carb. adjustments screws the idle screw should be up further or on the other side of the handle if I remember right. Depending on how old the saw depends on how the muffler was designed. 40 to 1 IMO would be OK for that saw beings two stroke mix has come along ways since the early 70's.

    Bookmark   August 16, 2008 at 2:48PM
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hamme_r

I have mod. # ut10655, ser # hi0201629. Can anyone tell me what year it was manufactured?

    Bookmark   September 14, 2008 at 1:24PM
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billw(5b - Kansas)

Te 'i' indicates it was made in 1987.

    Bookmark   September 17, 2008 at 6:47PM
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fred69

I desperately need a chain for a Homelite XL auto oil with a 12" bar. Does anyone know where I can find one, or a suitable replacement?

    Bookmark   November 21, 2008 at 3:10PM
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eagli

HL 16" UT 10926 33cc - Need help with the adjustments, which way should I turn to open & close. What is the factory setting from zero on the throttle.

    Bookmark   December 8, 2008 at 10:30PM
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billw(5b - Kansas)

If you are having 'Carb' troubles it is most likely time to R&R the Carb diphragms. You need to know which carb you have. ZAMA, WALBRO or Tillotson. There are different settings for the carbs.
I stock the carbs and their Kits. They come with instructions.
BillWalcott
785-562-3539
SERVICING HOMELITE FOR OVER 50 YEARS

    Bookmark   December 11, 2008 at 12:10AM
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fyrewolf

I just purchased a homelite bandit from a pawnshop, it ran great for a little bit and then then engine quit, I tried restarting several times, I replaced the spark plug also, am at a loss as to what to do to correct the problem. Can anyone help with this?

    Bookmark   December 12, 2008 at 3:22PM
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bogus1234

I have a homeliteXL chain saw. It's pumping bar oil into the engine while runnning. Check valve in oil tank keeps blowing off. Do you know what the problem could be?

Thanks

    Bookmark   February 20, 2009 at 8:01PM
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johnnyberotten_gmail_com

I have an XL automatic oiler doing the same thing. Haven't found a diagram for it yet but I suspect the chain oiler is a pulse driven diaphragm . I also suspect said diaphragm is ruptured. Any ideas, comments , help? Thanks

    Bookmark   March 10, 2009 at 10:30PM
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billw(5b - Kansas)

Jerry
I have the Diaphragms & gaskets for the XL Oiler.
Bill
785-562-3539

    Bookmark   March 17, 2009 at 12:22PM
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bigmanmc

i have a xl2 automatic lot #g6239 ser #45032107 These are the only numbers I can find on the saw. I just need to know how the choke works (up-choke, or down-choke), what ratio fuel mix to use, and what year was it manufactured? It is red and looks like the one pictured above. Any help would be much appreciated! e-mail bigmanmc69@hotmail.com

    Bookmark   May 21, 2009 at 9:24AM
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dale1935

Hi all, I have a saw just like the one pictured by poohbear2767, near the top of this forum, XL Automatic Oiling, ut10515A.
The primary of the ignition coil measures zero ohms---shorted?
The secondary, or spark plug wire side, measures 4200 ohms, or 4.2 on the 200k scale.
I think it is bad due the primary reading. It had a very weak spark when I started messing with it, but none now.
The switch checks out good also.

Does anyone have an idea where I can get a cheap used replacement coil?
Any idea when this saw was made?
Thanks so much
Dale1935

    Bookmark   May 25, 2009 at 5:23PM
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ihardt

I have a Homelite Super 2, UT-10653

I would like information on how to adjust the upper and lower carburator adjustments. Is there a service manual available?

    Bookmark   June 8, 2009 at 8:16PM
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mook70

Have poulan pro wacker.I do volunteer work 4 Habitat 4 Humanity. People donate there junk Wackers/Lawnmowers. I do my best 2 get this stuff running, or junk it.Put carb kit in wacker but hooked primer bulb back wards. Corrected it .Carb has fuel running out now after primeing, ( How many times 2 press bulb-No book) Did I destroy kit. Seems like tank is presserized. No vent on fuel cap. Took carb apart & check valves seem distorded. Reassembled Same problem. How many times do U press bulb?(no manual)HELP! & much Thanks!

    Bookmark   June 14, 2009 at 12:51PM
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scratch250

Super XL Auotmatic, ut no. 100453, sn# 372900107. Can anyone feed me some info? Thank you...

    Bookmark   June 16, 2009 at 6:44PM
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steelynirvana

Could someone date my saws for me?
Homelite XL
Unit No. 105074

Homelite Super XL Automatic
Unit No. 10045C

I'd really appreciate if anyone could date this for me also:
Homelite ST-80 String trimmer 15" cut
Unit No. 20507A

Thank you very much

    Bookmark   July 29, 2009 at 10:59PM
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randyks

Friend gave me a Homelite UT10739 no manual available I can find. Does anyone know how old this is & is it worth saving. Any answers are appreciated. Thanks

    Bookmark   August 23, 2009 at 12:06AM
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canguy(British Columbia)

You have an XLAO which was a very popular model. If it is red it was built after 1970, the earlier ones were blue.
Whether it is worth saving is up to you. I would as I like old saws and collect as many as I have space for (and the wife lets me get away with). If you are looking for a work saw, probably not. Replacement parts are almost non existent plus the saw is heavy, slow,very noisy and vibration is bad. Great saw in it's day but there is much better product on the market now.

    Bookmark   August 23, 2009 at 12:41AM
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masseyab

I have a 330XL chain saw that was running full blast upon starting. Tried to adjust the idle, high and low carburetor jets and now I can't start it. Any one know how to adjust for starting?

    Bookmark   March 20, 2010 at 2:21PM
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howy61(7a, 7b)

Masseyab,
I just bought a refurbished UT10540 and when I start on the ground with my boot on the handle base, the trigger engages enough to always run the chain. If I tap the safety trigger release, the saw drops back to idle.

Wish I could help with the jet adjustment.

I do have my own question. The model and the reciept says I should have a 35cc engine, but both labels say 42cc. Is there an easy way to know without measureing the cyclinder bore if I got the larger power head that can handle up to an 18" bar?

    Bookmark   March 21, 2010 at 2:04PM
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canguy(British Columbia)

That is the way it should work. A lot of people start their saws with the chain brake on but I don't like to do that. Yours should be the 42cc model.

    Bookmark   March 21, 2010 at 9:40PM
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masiman(z7 VA)

I start mine with the brake on for safety. On the ground it is not much of an issue but when I am climbing there are too many things going, awkward positions and life support ropes that I can't risk accidental contact with the tree, ropes, myself or even powerlines if I were to work around them. Some of my saws start easier when they can run, otherwise it can be slightly tricky to get them going from cold with a chain-brake start.

    Bookmark   March 22, 2010 at 1:35PM
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ewalk

Massey: Since you have not been answered heres my two cents . Ensure you have fresh properly mixed gas along with a few onces of fuel injector cleaner. Removed the High Speed and Low Speed Jets , observe the needle condition is there any groove worn into the tip where it mates with the seat ? if so you will require new jets . If jets appear ok Spray in some carb cleaner. if you have use of compressed air give a little shot into the jet ports. Reinstall the jets , tighten carefully do not overtighten just till the needles seat. Turn both jets screws out 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns. The Idle Screw a top of the carburator housing should be just touching the cam for the throttle shaft turn it in to increase idle speed or turn out decrease . The chain should just barely turn over on the bar at idle . Try starting , if the fuel & air filter and diaphram and all gas lines and your coil and plug are sound the saw will start . To fine tune the low speed turn the needle in or out to have the saw rev up without hesitation . As for high speed jet run the saw till it reaches top rpm and then turn in jet till it reaches max rpm and then back jet out a 1/4 turn to ensure a not to lean high speed mixture . Run the saw until hot and readjust the idle to your likeing . Make a few cuts at full rpm and shut off the saw and check the plug for proper colouration light to medium brown is ok . This has been used on all my Old and New Saws should get you in the Ball Park as long as you have Good Compression and sound components . Get back to us on your results Good Luck .. T .

    Bookmark   March 22, 2010 at 1:38PM
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lou10

I have a pair of Homelite 10 that date from the 70's. The oil and fuel caps are bad,(cracked). A common prob. but they are no longer available. Does anyone remember what replaces these caps? I can change the color to match the red and black myself.

    Bookmark   March 22, 2010 at 6:14PM
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bjbabove45th

I have acquired a Super 2 auto oiling from a friend of mine. It is a UT 105294. It ran fine until late last year. It seems to be leaking fuel and running really rich. The air filter is clean. I replaced the gas and oil lines thinking that they were cracked. It still seems to leak fuel. There is a vent hole in the tank. I don't think that it is leaking out the hole. I remember when the saw was new it used a lot less bar oil than gas. Now it seems to use equal amounts. With the excessive blue smoke I suspect it is burning bar oil as well as gas. Two of the 3 oil lines seem to run logical and parallel. Have I routed them wrong? Should they cross? Is there a schematic on this somewhere? Have I done something wrong or is the saw in need of a repair? It also seems to run the carburetor out and then quits. I must restart it to get it to run another cut. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thank-you.

    Bookmark   April 4, 2010 at 8:27AM
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plymouth1940

I have an old Homelite chainsaw Model 17 Serial # 520788. It is red and green, has an 18" bar and a green cover over the head and spark plug area. It has a tank for gas, a tank for chain and bar oil, and a tank for gear lube.A few questions please:
1. How old is the saw?
What type of oil do I use for the gear lube?
3. There are 2 sets each of high and low speed adjustments on the carb. What should be the initial settings for the adjustments.
4. There is a governor adjustment screw next to the top of the head with a rod from this to the carb. What is the correct setting for this governor?
Thanks so much for your time. I really appreciate it.
2.

    Bookmark   April 19, 2010 at 12:16PM
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rwallin

I Have a homelite 330 chain saw and the bar is not getting any oil. I have taken the oil pump off, blown air through all three openings. Checked filter in oil tank, air into screen in top of oil tank, separated the saw in half, checked the rubber lines for breaks.Placed soap bubbles on and around the oil pump and bottom gasket. Run run the saw and felt air coming from pulse line. Checked oil diaphram for elastisity and breaks with air and soap suds and no sucsess. Help

    Bookmark   April 22, 2010 at 7:07PM
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miscka

I just found this site and it really looks like the people here are very helpful.Anyway,I have a Homelite Super E-Z Automatic chainsaw.It is red and maybe close to 30 years old.It runs great.It probably needs a few parts here and there.How much would a parts list booklet cost me?

    Bookmark   April 24, 2010 at 10:10PM
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vaduckhunter

I have a Homelite XL AO, UT#10515B. I wasn't sure if anyone had a pdf of the manual or such. This forum has been super helpful with mix, bar and chain information.
I needed to replace the chain so I went to a Stihl dealer who also supposedly new about Homelite. He made a chain for me by cutting from a spool and it looked like it matched up size, teeth, and depth of chain that goes in the guide and bar. But when I ran the new chain for the first time, it kicked sparks from the tip and was blackening the tip. I only ran for about 20-30 seconds before I decided that something wasn't right. I made sure everything was assembled correctly. I put the old chain back on and it worked perfect. I looked at the bar tip and it had kind of gouged the metal plate that is one side of the bar. I filed this down a little and now the new chain glides round the bar tip like it should. Is this something that I should have done? Am I damaging anything?

    Bookmark   April 25, 2010 at 12:15PM
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billw(5b - Kansas)

MISCKA.
I have The Illustrated Parts List available for the SEZ $5.00 with $2.00 credit on any parts order, I also carry most any part for your saw as well as 3000 others.
Bill Walcott
785-562-3539

    Bookmark   May 23, 2010 at 12:02AM
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leoinnj

I have a Homelite XL 12. I purchased it in the mid 80's
I was cutting several trees (Pine) yesterday, and after a really good work out, the saw stopped. I tried restarting, and it sputtered and stopped. I pulled the plug (it was wet), no spark. Today, I picked up the saw, primed it, and it started right up. I shut it off and restarted it about 3 times. My question is: could my coil be breaking down after the saw is being used for awhile. How can I test the coil? Or should I just replace it? Also, I have never changed the fuel filter, I plan to fish it out of the tank and change it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you, leoinnj

    Bookmark   June 9, 2010 at 8:33PM
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billw(5b - Kansas)

I suspect your saw has Points & Condenser... If so, the condenser is going bad and as it heats up the values change until it no longer puts out the spark.
Check the rotor for the name of the system (WICO/Prestolite or REPCO/R E Phelon Co. I have the parts for either
Bill 785-562-3539

    Bookmark   June 12, 2010 at 10:21AM
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evdpgh

Not to rain on anyone's parade, but you do know that a chainsaw is probably the most dangerous tool you can use. I know the prevailing attitude of many is "it won't happen to me". These ancient machines lack all modern safety features. A lot of people's health insurance deductible will buy a new Stihl professional saw.

    Bookmark   June 12, 2010 at 2:06PM
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ewalk

Your quite right the older saws did rely on user experience and proper usage . Safety was dictated by proper cutting technique . Kickback is the biggest danger and normally can be avoided if the operator is paying attention to details. You are correct you don't often get second chances with a chainsaw so training and personal protective equipment is very important. I still have two Old Pioneers that I use on occassion , bot normally use my New Saws just because of the safety advancements . The majority of older saws are collector items not the every day commercial user type. Heck when your talking 25-30+ yrs old , dependability is at a premium lol .

    Bookmark   June 12, 2010 at 4:01PM
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leoinnj

Thank you for the reply. I will check and see what kind of electrical set up I have in my saw.

You are so right about the chainsaw danger.
Not too long after I purchased my saw, and after it kicked back on me and cut a little chunk out of my finger, I went out and purchased a knuckle guard, and a set of teeth that bolted on the saw, and would bite into the log that I was cutting. Seems like a chainsaw is similar to a motorcycle, you have to respect them and use them with caution.

    Bookmark   June 15, 2010 at 8:46PM
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jonny_b

I have a Homelite XL UT105074 and I run it for about 10 minutes and it stops and won't restart until it sets for about a half an hour and then it will start on the first pull.I have checked the fire on the plug and its good even tried another plug its getting fuel and the plug gets wet.i have checked the compression shortly after it stops and it measures less than 80 psi and cold its over 120. is it possible to be that much difference just with the saw running a short time?? I am using a Stihl mix 40:1 mix Do i need Rings or is there a problem with the Reed?

    Bookmark   June 26, 2010 at 2:50PM
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csource

I have a Homelite XL UT-10656 and the manual that came with it. Its Copyrite @1985 . The mix for this saw is 40-1 . Any other info from the manual let me know.

    Bookmark   July 13, 2010 at 7:18PM
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fred69

Got my Homelite XL-12" UT-105074 purring again. Great little saw. Because 12" chains aren't stocked in stores around me, I've had to have chains made. The bar is worn to the point I'm thinking it won't be long before I start throwing a chain. If wanted to change to a 14" or 16" bar, can anyone recommend a good replacement that would fit?
Would appreciate your input.

    Bookmark   July 16, 2010 at 12:25AM
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ewalk

Checkout Bill W. June 12th Post above . Dollars to Donuts he has what you need !

    Bookmark   July 16, 2010 at 5:18AM
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lil_yoda

Homelite's web page was not helpful on their old saws.
I came across an old homelite 150 automatic chainsaw with a red all metal housing. It looks very similar to the one in attached video, except the sticker only has us 105544 and ser 190570079. Any information about this saw would be useful. I'm heading out to take it apart. It needs a choke lever & plug (hopefully). If anybody can help with the age & mixture & anything else you know about it would be apreciated. About what is the value of an older saw like this? Thanks.

Here is a link that might be useful: youtube old homelite chainsaw

    Bookmark   July 28, 2010 at 3:02PM
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billw(5b - Kansas)

Some parts for the HOMELITE XL are getting scarce but I have most parts, new or used in stock.
Old age means the rubber-like parts are going bad, Air Filter, Fuel & Oil Lines and the 2 duck-billed valves all have a limited life...
I stock all of these and both the 1/4" and 3/8" sprockets, chains and bars.
Fuel Mix is best at 32:1. The EXACT-MIX squeeze bottle is not accurate enough for me as any error at the 50:1 ratio can be a BIG and expensive error.
Bill Walcott
785-562-3539
SERVICING HOMELITE FOR OVER 50 YEARS

    Bookmark   August 20, 2010 at 12:52PM
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jim_in_the_woods

My Homelite XL Automatic started leaking oil. I am trying to take it apart to replace or repair the reservoir. It looks like I need to take the centrifigul clutch off to get to the oil tank. I can't tell whether the clutch screws on, or if it is pressed on. Is anyone familiar with that?

    Bookmark   December 5, 2010 at 10:32AM
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soperfrd_verizon_net

I have recently came into possession of a Homelite SuperXL model 10045C Serial number 5E1940070 and would like to know what the ratio oil/gas mixture is for this chain saw. I rec'd it with no manual.
Thanks

    Bookmark   December 7, 2010 at 5:01PM
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dfclst_mail_com

I was bequeathed a homelite UT10655 S# HI2120503. It had a lil sticker 18" just coming off. The tag says 1-1985. The case is clean and it started after some exercize, and ran and idled after some more. only hit peak rpm briefly.
A) what size motor?
B) is that an 18" chain ?(assuming the bar is stock)
C) am I wasting my time trying to get someone to give me $50 for it, or should I just give it to Salvation Army?

    Bookmark   December 10, 2010 at 6:34PM
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ewalk

By all means it is worth consideration to collectors or a parts saw at the very least . You could perhaps make upwards to $100.00+ for this unit . Call Bill Walcott who has left his Ph Number on this very thread for further info ..E.

    Bookmark   December 11, 2010 at 8:26AM
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heidi_hurst_yahoo_com

i have just received a homelite 150 automatic will run but the fuel line has broken and i cant see how to put new fuel line on with out splitting the case. if there is a way i would appreciate knowing shortcut thanks.

    Bookmark   December 13, 2010 at 4:28PM
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mg42_cableone_net

I just bought a Blue Homelite XL-12 at an auction for $25.
I did some TLC and replaced the spark plug and fuel. it runs great but the chain has a lot of slack but its sharp as hell so i dont know what to do like buy a nother chain or put up with it

    Bookmark   January 2, 2011 at 3:04AM
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mg42_cableone_net

and for you guys that need parts go to ebay i found lots of stuff on my model

    Bookmark   January 2, 2011 at 3:07AM
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ewalk

For a back up chain you can usually remove a link ,if the tensioner is at it mechanical limits but quite often the chain has been worn to the extent that replacement is advisable . Good Oregon Chain is available on the Net at very reasonable pricing .

    Bookmark   January 2, 2011 at 10:51AM
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trble4_sbcglobal_net

My husband has a Homelite superXL automatic chain saw Unit# 10045B It's approximately 25 years old. He is wanting to know where the float is. He believes it is stuck and he wants to get it loose as the saw will not start in its present condition. Appreciate any help.

    Bookmark   January 9, 2011 at 1:54PM
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FISHERXP_AOL_COM

MY SAW "GUY" TELLS ME MY OLD HOMELITE EZ AUTOMATIC, UT 10109, SN 03421261 NEEDS NEW CRANKSHAFT SEALS...BUT HE CAN'T FIND THEM. I'VE CHECKED SEVERAL WEBSITES AND DON'T SEE THAT SAW LISTED. WOULD APPRECIATE LEARNING WHERE I MIGHT FIND THESE SEALS OR IF THERE ARE SEALS FROM ANOTHER MODEL HOMELITE THAT WOULD FIT.

THANKS

    Bookmark   January 17, 2011 at 10:07AM
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ewalk

Randy : Check out the Chansawer.com site for your parts . Call Scott should further infor be required for your unit .

    Bookmark   January 17, 2011 at 1:25PM
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mg42_cableone_net

the website is spelled wrong here it is spelled correctily

http://store.chainsawr.com/

Just copy and paste this into your URL bar

    Bookmark   January 28, 2011 at 5:17PM
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ewalk

chainsawr.com will get you to the home page sorry for the typo . I have order numerous parts from Scott for vintage saws , he is a honest dude . All the Best with restoring the Old Homelite .
Note: Thanx for the correctio Russell .

    Bookmark   January 29, 2011 at 10:14AM
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ethomson47_gmail_com

hi all i just traded some climbing gear for a xl auto textron i think its 1982 i think its 58cc it has 2o" barr how much larger can i get for it and is cc rite for this saw is this an admirable saw for homelite owners i like it much

    Bookmark   February 11, 2011 at 3:03PM
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ewalk

Diesel , there should be another number designation. I do not recall the Textron Monique . The XL Auto was 1st produced back in 1969 , numerous 58 cc class units. Does your saw have a Tillotson or Walbro or Zama Carb ? Normally any Pro Grade Saw within the 60 cc class is limited to
within a 24 " Bar or less for effective cutting , 20" or 18 " is Optimium . As for your last question yes , there is a strong following of Vintage Homelite Saws . Keep the Ole Girl Running I have a few Old Pioneers of Mid 60's Vintage that still run strong .

    Bookmark   February 12, 2011 at 3:49PM
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ethomson47_gmail_com

hi all thanks for info i have a zama carb and#50156 terry textron xl auto nice saw red heavy power house this saw spanked a stihl 048 like no tomorow my buddy spoke to highly of his "man saw he say" and even with dull chain hard ash like butter lol homelite forever all

    Bookmark   February 14, 2011 at 10:58AM
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slvfx50_aol_com

I have a Homelite XL AO UT 105072 that I have had for 30 years. It has cut a mountain of wood in that time and is still in pretty good shape. The question is , when the saw starts to warm up it leaks fuel mix out of the exhaust and smokes heavily. Oiling seems to be a little slow from the tank to the bar and then it leaks bar oil after it sits. I can't find a new saw as light and handy as this little guy so I need to fix it for spring prunning. Any ideas where to start on the repairs?

    Bookmark   March 4, 2011 at 5:44PM
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glen230

I've got a blue XL 12 (SN 20611569) that will crank when I pour a few drops of gas mix down the carb. Only runs a few seconds and dies. Fresh gas mix, fuel line seems to be ok, good filter, etc. Will not start unless I pour mix in carb. Took the carb off yesterday and cleaned well. It will run a couple of seconds and die. Compression is good.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Glen S

    Bookmark   March 10, 2011 at 5:03PM
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tombrook_shentel_net

I have two 12" saws.A "XL2" & "XL"
The "XL2" has a champ. DJ6J plug in it.
The "XL" has a champ. CJ8 plug in it.
Are these the right plugs?

    Bookmark   March 16, 2011 at 11:10AM
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dfspratt_aol_com

I have a Homelit SLX chainsaw,when i pull cord to start it yank's it out of my hand(that hurts). I removed plug wire same thing,when i remove spark plug it pulls fine. When i finally get it started it runs fine,it does the same thing when it's hot.
Thank's
Danny

    Bookmark   March 20, 2011 at 8:13PM
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billw(5b - Kansas)

jim venuto
The DJ7Y plug is the correct one for both.
Bill

    Bookmark   April 3, 2011 at 7:33PM
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billw(5b - Kansas)

glen230
I suspect the carb diaphragms need R&R. Send me the make of the carb (WALBRO or ?) I stock the carb Kits.

Bill
785-562-3539

    Bookmark   April 3, 2011 at 7:38PM
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fertileturtle1_yahoo_com

I actually have a couple questions first off i was recently giving a homelite 330 and super XL with manual oiler the 330 has spark put gas in the carb fires right up not sure where to look first for the no gas pick up part carb? filter? manifold conector( i think its called) or reeds? the super XL was run without oil in the gas only has 65 psi compression found some reasonable priced parts or is it not worth fixing and also does anyone have any idea where i can find parts for my old CS 50 i love this bought it two years ago for 40 bucks at the pawn shop cant slow it down one of best running saws i've owned but i need the rear handle on the right side its patched ran over with the van (fixed) then tree fell on it and broke it behind the old patch(fixed again) just not sure what to do if anythibng else happens to it I would appreciate any and all help i can get

    Bookmark   April 7, 2011 at 12:44PM
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sixty4chevrolet_yahoo_com

I was just given a light metallic blue homelite 150 16 inch saw. Runs great. Leaks bar oil from the bottom. Is this fixable and very complicated to repair ? Do I just need replacement gaskets ? Also need a chain. Old one says Oregon on it. Any advice ? Thanks, Joe.

    Bookmark   April 11, 2011 at 1:16PM
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thecosmicenergy_gmail_com

I am in need of a new 12" x 3/8" pitch x .050" gauge guide bar, chain, and drive sprocket including bearing for an old Homelite XL2 (serial#: 42833733), but can't seem to get a hold of Mr. Bill Walcott. I have tried calling the phone# he has posted here, both with AND without using a "1" prefix in front of it, but to no avail as of yet. Both ways, there was no answer with just a generic voicemail message afterward. If Mr. Walcott or anyone else can point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it. I am in the Piedmont area of North Carolina, and have called about every place I know of locally. I CAN order from Ebay, but don't really want to wait that long to receive if possible, as I have some fallen trees from a storm to clear.

Also,....am I even doing the right thing here by attempting to keep this OLD Homelite going or should I just get a new saw? The saw is easy to start & stays running great even when hot, but it's hard telling for how much longer. I inherited it from my stepdad, and have no idea WHEN he bought it, but it seems pretty old. I can get a Poulan 14" Model #P3314 at Lowes for $100 (I have a $10 off card):
http://tinyurl.com/3u3paud

Should I just do that instead of switching out the bar and chain on the old Homelite? I only need a chainsaw about once every five years or so to clear out the odd fallen tree or whatnot.

Thanks in advance & all advice appreciated,
Cosmic

    Bookmark   April 12, 2011 at 11:44PM
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ewalk

Cos: If the Ole girl runs well and all you use it for is annual (once a yr) cleanup . Sure put a new chain and bar on her . The bearing and sprocket should be available via Scott on the Chainsawr Site. Check out the Arborist Site for additional info should parts not be available via Scott . As a last resort Ebay should bring you a lot of parts also although of questionable quality . I assume you have sent Mr Walcott a Email ? He is a little slow at responding sometimes but usually gets back to you within a week. If all else fails the Poulan will suffice just ensure to use fresh fuel and stabil prior to storage (run her dry) and it will be ready for action next yr. All the Best !

    Bookmark   April 13, 2011 at 5:29AM
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ddu001_gmail_com

I recently got a Homelite Chainsaw, the model# is UT10517B, serial# 7D2040960. If anyone happen to have manual for it, could you share with me?

When I pull the cord, it seems have good pressure, but not start. The previous owner said it worked one and half years ago, and was in storage since then. what are the steps I should follow to clean it up and make it run?

Thanks,

Tony

    Bookmark   May 20, 2011 at 3:51PM
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ewalk

Start with checking for a good blue spark . Then if all good prime with a little gas in the plug hole . If she starts for a few seconds then prime her again and ensure fresh fuel 50-1 ratio and 2 ounces of concentrated fuel cleaner . Let the cleaner slowly run through the fuel circuits . You most likelly may also need to tune the jets and also spray some cleaner to clean the orifces out . Set the jets at 1-1/4 to 1/-1/2 turns out from closed . Hopefully you shall not require a carb diaphram kit .

    Bookmark   May 21, 2011 at 6:25PM
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rmagnuson4_comcast_net

I have a UT10656A, ser #HM2210733 It runs great and would like to buy another chain. Is the Oregon S59 compatible? or is there a better choice?

    Bookmark   July 17, 2011 at 8:08PM
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tuffymcnutt_yahoo_com

Doing research on a Blue Homelite EZ chainsaw SN 20761492 I was given. this thread has been helpful thanks everyone. This saw is in running condition and purrs beautifully. From the post I gather a 32:1 ratio will work fine for fuel. any guesses on the size chain I need? with the 16" original bar being tear dropped shaped I can not find the right size chain. the local dealer was no help just said the saw was garbage and he would give me $20 so he could hang it up with the other old saws he has in his shop.

    Bookmark   July 19, 2011 at 7:32PM
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ewalk

Army: Give Bill a call within this thread he has left his Phone Number and has numerous Homelite Saw Parts .

    Bookmark   July 19, 2011 at 8:39PM
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Jimmie2919

I have a homelite super ez chain saw and I need a new bar
and chain for it. The new bars won't fit because they don't have the adjusting hole in them. Do you know anyway
to fix this problem? the number on the old bar is W-16503.

    Bookmark   July 31, 2011 at 10:49AM
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steve7791

I have a Homelite chainsaw 410 SuperXL UT number 100451 Serial # 480950156, can it be converted from points to electronic ignition? If not, where can the points be obtained from?

    Bookmark   August 6, 2011 at 11:28PM
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newcar54

i hav a homelite 330 chainsaw it runs fine, but the chain oiler is not working. i have checked the lines, pump and filter nothing is plugged, it just wont pump oil. i have run it without the bar onso that should not be a problem there. can i get some help or advice with this problem. thank you

    Bookmark   September 19, 2011 at 12:06PM
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Mike1015

I have an Old Blue I got some time in 1996 at a hardware store. I never changed the air filter or spark plug. I have never winterize it either. This beast just keeps running. I let it sit for 2 years and on the second pull it started,it just keeps running. It's a good machine but,loud you definitely need ear protection and it's heavy. I think I'll be doing some maintenance to it. It's about time.

    Bookmark   September 19, 2011 at 10:03PM
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cwilder1225_att_net

I have a homelite super 2 automatic oiling model #10617.
I bought it new and it dosen't have a lot of hours on it, but has not been maintained well either. My problem is that it won't start. I cleaned the air filter and replaced it, checked the plug for fire which was good, except when removing the plug it is wet with gas. I consider myself to be fairly strong, but can hardly pull the start rope when the plug is in place, but when out it spins real easy. Could it have anything to do with the timing? It has solid state ignition,(no points or condensor). Thank's for any help you can send my way.

    Bookmark   September 23, 2011 at 3:28PM
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ch1935

I have a Homelite XL2 Auto 14 inch chainsaw.type50059 sn 430BT009 can you tell me what yr. it is. And where I can get a manual for it, if any. and cost.
thank you ch1935

    Bookmark   October 10, 2011 at 1:22PM
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willmay15367

I have a homelite 20" model #ut10942. It's a few years old but have very few hours. When I first bought it, it ran well and cut easily through large - 15" limbs with great pull and power - really cut well.

Now however it runs well but completly stops when I put the slightest cutting load on it. Just won't cut.

I sharpened the blade, made sure there is oil, has the right gas mix.

The chain brake doesn't work anymore either.

I am really disappointed with this saw.

What can I do?

    Bookmark   October 15, 2011 at 4:14PM
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willbgoode

Hello to all, I was given a homelite VI super 2 recently it has good compression and after some cleaning runs really well, it's got an echo 31207 bar but no chain what chain size is recommended for this? oh yeah it's got a 14" cut,the number on the saw is 105494 ,thanks for any assisitance

    Bookmark   February 23, 2012 at 8:44AM
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willbgoode

Sorry I had worded my question wrong ,am wanting to know which chain would be compatible for saw just want to use it for some firewood, and it's and oregon # 31207 bar not an echo ,thanks again

    Bookmark   February 28, 2012 at 8:26AM
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dave562

need a manual for an XL auto oiling,any help would be appreciated.This was given to me, and runs like a champ.
Thanx dave562

    Bookmark   March 21, 2012 at 2:33PM
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homelitelover

Hi how much do you want for the saw?

    Bookmark   May 4, 2014 at 6:07PM
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shadylane4

I have a Homelite
super XL automatic
Ut no. 10045-C
Serial no. 4F2350089

Can anyone tell me what year this saw is and where I might find parts.
Also my manual has 50 to 1 fuel mix but I've read posts that say 40 to 1 and
32 to 1. Which is it and how critical is it. Also how does that translate to ounces of oil to one gallon of gasoline.Thanks this is a great furum

    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 9:40AM
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billw(5b - Kansas)

Your saw was made in 1984 .
I should have most any part for your SXL.
The important thing with your mix is to be sure you have a full gallon of gas that you add the mix into, be it 16:1, 32:1 or which ever the oil is rated at.
Bill
785-562-3539
SERVICING HOMELITE FOR OVER 50 YEARS

    Bookmark   September 11, 2014 at 10:43PM
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