Battery Not Charging

ventura67(z5 Mi)June 20, 2014

John Deere-built 2002 Scotts L2048

It has been a suprisingly good lawn tractor over these 12 years.

But now it will not charge its battery while running. I've installed a new battery and regulator and cleaned up any obvious connections I could find. It runs normally otherwise, but when I shut it down the battery is dead and must be jumped to start again. Help!

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mownie(7)

If you are planning DIY, you need to post the Kohler engine model number here and also go to the Kohler website for a free PDF of the service manual for this engine.
Kohlers are somewhat "notorious" for having alternator magnets come loose inside the flywheel. Once the magnets are loose from their moorings (glue) they may pile up on each other, knocking other magnets off.
The loose magnets can/will plow into the stator windings (coils of wire) and destroy them.
Looks like you might be heading for some major $ outlay if any of this has happened.
Photo is from a member's Kohler where the scenario happened.The magnets that came loose are sticking to the steel stator laminations.
Some coils have been bent/destroyed.

This post was edited by mownie on Fri, Jun 20, 14 at 13:51

    Bookmark   June 20, 2014 at 1:46PM
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ventura67(z5 Mi)

Thank you. It is a Briggs and Stratton

Family YBSXS.7242VF 27844

    Bookmark   June 20, 2014 at 3:46PM
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mownie(7)

OK, I polled a website for specs and that website indicated it had a Kohler engine. You just can't trust anything you find on the internet!
The numbers you posted are from an emissions label.
Look on the engine for these specific numbers.
In this order you will see: Model number, Type number, Code.
Once you have found those, post back the model and type numbers. Code will not be needed.

    Bookmark   June 20, 2014 at 5:46PM
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klem1

Ever put a charger on it? The tractor can't charge a bad battery,even one 6 months old that's gone bad.

    Bookmark   June 20, 2014 at 6:27PM
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bluemower

in addition to the questions asked by the others, please identify the color of the wires and connectors to the regulator. This will help in trouble shooting your charging system.

Is your tractor equipped with an electric clutch for the blades?

    Bookmark   June 20, 2014 at 9:43PM
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ventura67(z5 Mi)

Thank you all for your time. I remember that when I bought it you could choose between a B&S and Kohler engine. I have the B&S.

Attached with this should be a picture of the regulator. I changed it with no improvement. The battery does hold a charge from a charger, starts the tractor great for a time or two, and then gets weaker until it is dead. Even as if the tractor is using some of the battery energy to run.

It does have an electric clutch, and that has been acting up since the charging problem started. Sometimes it will not re-engage after being employed for awhile and disengaged (like when emptying the bags or something). Then I have to shut the tractor down and go jump it, and it's as if the clutch has reset and will engage again. Less often it will just give out in the middle of a mowing run. I've kinda figured this was associated with the charging problem.

    Bookmark   June 21, 2014 at 10:26AM
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ventura67(z5 Mi)

Also, a picture of the only other engine information I could find...

    Bookmark   June 21, 2014 at 10:28AM
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ventura67(z5 Mi)

This was the only other engine info I could find, is there anywhere I might need to look as far as removing valences and so on?

    Bookmark   June 21, 2014 at 10:33AM
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bill_kapaun

Unplug the Yellow connector.
Measure the AC voltage between the 2 Yellow wires at high engine speed.
I'm not sure of the exact spec, but it's either 28 or 40 VAC MINIMUM.
So, if you are less than 28, we know the stator is dead for sure.
That's AC, not DC.

    Bookmark   June 21, 2014 at 11:03AM
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mownie(7)

Actually, you unplug the yellow connector and check between the 2 BLACK wires while the engine is running at high speed.
There are 2 different alternators available for this Model 406777, Type 0128-E1 engine.
One is a 10 amp and the other is a 16 amp.
The Briggs specs call for not less than 20 VAC for the 10 amp system, and not less than 30 VAC for the 16 amp system.
But, if you get less than 20 VAC, the stator is defective for sure, and if the stator is defective, both alternators use the same stator.
The 16 amp alternator has bigger magnets in the flywheel, so if it needs a stator, you don't have to determine which system you have. 496458 is the part number for the stator.

    Bookmark   June 21, 2014 at 10:07PM
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ventura67(z5 Mi)

OK, so I tested those two black wires from the stator- 1.9. dead? The multimeter tested 26 at my truck's battery, so it must be working.

The parts guys at the local shop said it is rare for stators to go bad, but it would seem mine has. Is this a job I can do myself? I have reasonable mechanical skill and patience.

    Bookmark   July 8, 2014 at 8:19PM
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bill_kapaun

1.9 WHAT?
26 WHAT?

Volts?
AC or DC

    Bookmark   July 8, 2014 at 8:27PM
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ventura67(z5 Mi)

Yes, volts AC

    Bookmark   July 8, 2014 at 8:40PM
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justalurker

26 VAC at your truck's battery?

You're doing something wrong. A car/truck battery should be 12.7 to 13.2 VDC static and up to 14 VDC with engine running.

    Bookmark   July 8, 2014 at 8:46PM
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ventura67(z5 Mi)

I wasn't sure which setting to have the meter on, but here are my two readings... Full throttle, testing the two black wires that head into the regulator.

    Bookmark   July 8, 2014 at 9:09PM
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ventura67(z5 Mi)

And this....

    Bookmark   July 8, 2014 at 9:10PM
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bill_kapaun

Are you connecting the leads to BOTH wires?
Not one wire and the other lead to ground.

    Bookmark   July 8, 2014 at 11:02PM
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ventura67(z5 Mi)

Yes, both wires.

    Bookmark   July 9, 2014 at 8:13AM
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bill_kapaun

The lower range is the one to use.

BTW- Your test indicates a bad stator.
You should have an absolute minimum of at least 28V. Some stators should be even higher

On your 200V scale, the max reading the meter can show is 199.9V.

    Bookmark   July 9, 2014 at 9:25AM
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