Help, my wheel fell off

hoosierdoc(5 IN)June 14, 2011

So.... Lgt2654 husqvarna. Owned it 4 years, and mowings take 3 hours each so it gets used. This winter I bought a blade and did plow snow.

Today it was losing power at the tire intermittently. Then the left rear wheel seemed loose. I was able to pull the wheel off with a simple tug. Hrm. It seems like there was a metal ridge that fit in a groove which transferred power nicely. The ridge and groove are now metal dust that fell out.

Several shops are quoting me 1-3 weeks before they can look at it.Is this enough description to come up with a diagnosis and t

Recommendation? If I can order a part and find someone to do labor i'd be in good shape

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Far as I know there are two type of wheel combinations on LT/GT/ LT's are usually held on by C clip snap ring. You will also have two thrust washers and usually 1 to 2 inch or so spacer on the axle shaft taking up the space or the slack out of the the wheel. Yours probably didn't get greased (either by grease gun or taking the wheel off and greasing the shaft and inside the wheel) with no grease it starts to eat things up over time which IMO is where your at now. You can look in your owners manual in the parts break down section and find all the parts to reassemble your wheel. You also have nice picture to look at and how it assembles on the other side when you take the wheel off to grease it. You do this by pulling off the dust cap, removing the C clip snap ring and pulling the wheel off noting or taking pictures of parts as your go. reassemble in the reverse order you took off. Not that hard you can do this if you ever worked on bicycle before.

The other type of wheel is held on just like car it has axle with studs and you have to remove the nuts to get the wheel off. Not likely your model cause unless all the nuts fell off you would not be able to just pull the wheel and tire off.

    Bookmark   June 14, 2011 at 4:04PM
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hoosierdoc(5 IN)

I can guarantee it's not been greased by me. Don't you have to do that every FIVE years? I've only owned it four...

Here are pics. It seems like the groove on the axle part is worn away, the rectangular 'key' is powdered and fell out, and the receiving slot on #7 is worn out. Do you think it's possible to get a new #7 and #2, then find someone who can use a router on the axle to make a new groove? That seems like the cheapest route, but one that should work OK.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pics and schematic

    Bookmark   June 14, 2011 at 5:40PM
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Looks like you snapped an axle shaft...

    Bookmark   June 14, 2011 at 5:54PM
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hoosierdoc(5 IN)

Yeahh.... I agree with the last post. I just removed the dust cap and pounded 4 more inches of shaft out of the rim.

Any option other than$800 new part? I saw someone used. jD one with modification. Probably just sell it for parts.

    Bookmark   June 14, 2011 at 6:15PM
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Looks like the Lgt2654 comes with a Tuff-Torq K46 which is a light duty transaxle for a Lgt designation.

Look on the trans and try to find identifying model and #.

Go to

They manufacture the trans and will sell parts directly at reasonable prices.

    Bookmark   June 14, 2011 at 6:26PM
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Holy crap the axle came with it! Now that's one dry worn out hole! NO joy jelly left there! You maybe right, I looked in one of my owners manuals and it didn't cover or mention anything about wheel greasing or pre-ventived maintenance schedule on axles! Looks like used unit or cracking open the transaxle and replacing the shaft assy. and hub. probably cost more than it worth unless you have excess to cheap used parts.

    Bookmark   June 14, 2011 at 9:17PM
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You might be surprised at how modestly priced those parts are directly from TT and not stepped on multiple times.

    Bookmark   June 14, 2011 at 10:58PM
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Yup, apply grease to the keyed connection. That will definitely help.

Is that drive shaft a tube? I vote for the used hydro unit.

    Bookmark   June 15, 2011 at 5:26AM
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hoosierdoc(5 IN)

Thanks for the website link. They have a $28 left rear axle part listed. After looking at the part that was still inside my wheel and four inches or so of key still in place. I'm guessing I could get by with just a new axle and not the #7 piece. If I'm going to replace one, should I do both while I'm in there?

I found a nice YouTube video of tearing down the k46, doesn't look too bad

    Bookmark   June 15, 2011 at 8:33AM
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If you decide to do the repair then use synthetic oil as TT recommends. Mobil 1 works great and is EZ to find.

    Bookmark   June 15, 2011 at 8:45AM
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hoosierdoc(5 IN)

Spoke with Derrick at Tuff torque, very nice. Helped me order the axle, seal, and cap. With 2nd day air, will e $49.97 and arrive Friday.

Many thanks to all those who helped me out. I was ready to craigslist it for parts!

    Bookmark   June 15, 2011 at 11:38AM
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Derrick is da MAN... he has always been very helpful.

    Bookmark   June 15, 2011 at 12:07PM
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hoosierdoc(5 IN)

K46 removed, opened, drained, new axle slid in, magnetic ring cleaned, new gasket bead on, closed up. Will fill tomorrow and mount up!

$49 plus oil. Sweeeet

    Bookmark   June 18, 2011 at 9:34PM
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A little Anti-Seize on the axle shaft and key-way where the hub slips on the axle shaft is a smart move.

Also not a bad idea to have a spare key or two.

Don't forget the purge procedure to get the air out.

    Bookmark   June 18, 2011 at 11:03PM
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hoosierdoc(5 IN)

Mounted last night (that was annoying). This morning I fired it up and was nervous about tires not spinning until I did the bleed thing and it worked great. Now it's very responsive.

I ended up removing the oil cap instead of the vent. I had another one so figured it's easier. Had to stab it and pry out as it was in so tight. Very happy in the end!

If I can do this repair, anyone can. I'm the epitome of a white collar worker

    Bookmark   June 20, 2011 at 1:40PM
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You might have another oil cap for a future oil change.

Job well done.

    Bookmark   June 20, 2011 at 2:00PM
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