gasoline spill from my tractor :(

v1rtu0s1ty(5a)August 1, 2010

I know that I should always remove the gasoline from our equipments. I have about 2" of gasoline that I left from my tractor. I think the brand is YardMachine. Yesterday, the garage smelled gasoline. I thought it was my gasoline container so I looked for it but found out it was not. I found out it was my tractor. Nothing touched it nor some object fell on it. It was dripping very slowly though. Also, I have not used my tractor for this year. Why did it spill? Was it because that the garage became hot and the gasoline expanded which caused it to spill?

I removed the hose so I can drain the tank. Gasoline is now in my gasoline container. I also noticed the hose you see on the picture, one end is soft as compared to the other parts which are still hard when you press it. I'll buy a new hose.

Oh one more, do you think my tractor is damaged after this event?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. :)

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walt2002

"Oh one more, do you think my tractor is damaged after this event? "

No, not yet but be sure to check the oil for overfull and smelling like gas. I would change it because it is almost certain that if gas was dripping out the carb that gas has run thru cylinder and gotten in the oil.

No big deal, happens all the time, I would buy an in line gas shut off valve and use when the engine is not running.

Walt Conner

    Bookmark   August 1, 2010 at 11:25AM
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mownie(7)

Virtuosity, to answer your query about "harm to engine". It's doubtful any harm came to the engine..............provided that the leaking gasoline was coming from the deteriorated hose.
BUT! IF........the gasoline was leaking out of the carburetor from inside the air cleaner, the engine oil may have been contaminated by the leaking gas, and will need to be changed before running the engine again. Pull the dipstick and smell the oil on it. If it smells of gasoline and is indicating too high oil level, the carb has a problem in the needle and seat parts.
A standard recommendation of mine is that owners of tractors where the fuel tank is above (even partly above) the level of the carburetor should install an inline fuel shut off valve in the fuel hose, between the tank and the fuel filter. After installing the inline valve, keep the valve closed at all times EXCEPT when the engine is running. Cut the fuel off when you stop the engine.
If the leaking gasoline was from the defective hose, you dodged a bullet.
The hose is available as "cut to length" at auto parts stores or small engine shops. It is not neccessary to buy from the OEM parts list (in fact, that's probably the worst source).
When you buy some new hose, ask if a premium grade is available.
Hoses will deteriorate with time under any circumstances, but high heat without gasoline stabilizer added to the fuel can likely accelerate the process.
Unstabilized gas breaks down into constituent components quickly, some of which are aggressive solvents. The aggressive solvents may dissolve some of the hose rubber and eat right through the hose.
Always use a gasoline stabilizer in equipment that does not get refueled weekly. Put the fuel stabilizer in your gas container before you fill it at the pump. This way your entire fuel supply will be stabilized, no matter what you feed from it. Stabil is one brand of stabilizer. Briggs & Stratton market their own brand. Other brands are also available.
One more thing to check would be the gas tank cap vent. Normally, the vent will prevent any pressure from developing in the tank due to a rise of ambient temperature. If the cap vent becomes clogged, then pressure could develop in the tank, and that pressure could cause leakage at a loose fitting hose or a hose that is deteriorated and porous.

    Bookmark   August 1, 2010 at 11:37AM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Awesome help from you guys! :D I'll follow all your instructions! :D I'll keep you posted.

By the way, where can I get inline shutoff valve and where is it installed?

    Bookmark   August 1, 2010 at 11:42AM
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mownie(7)

The inline valve can be bought anywhere parts for outdoor power equipment are found. Home centers like Lowe's or Home Depot or your equivalent have them too. Looking at your pics, you need 1/4" hose and an inline valve with 1/4" hose nipples.
Install the inline valve anywhere in the hose leading from the tank to the filter. Situate your inline valve somewhere between the tank and the fuel filter where it will be easy to reach and operate. Having it between the filter and the tank makes changing the fuel filter less messy because with the valve closed, only a little fuel can spill out of the hose when servicing the filter.

By the way, in your pics, I see that the hose clamp nearest the carb is NOT in place where it should be. I hope this is because you moved it there before you took the pictures.

    Bookmark   August 1, 2010 at 12:18PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Yup, I moved the clamp. I wasn't able to buy the things today. I'll buy it sometime this week.

Thanks again for all the instructions. I really appreciate it. :)

    Bookmark   August 1, 2010 at 7:38PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

By the way, is the fuel filter the color white stuff in my picture, the white plastic thing at the end of the hose?

    Bookmark   August 2, 2010 at 1:45AM
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rcbe(6)

Yup - the white thing held on the hose end with a green spring clamp.

    Bookmark   August 2, 2010 at 7:31AM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Hi folks. It's just today that I was able to start working on the issue. I smell gas in the oil. Do I just have to drain it? Are there other things I should do? What oil should I buy?

Thanks!

    Bookmark   August 14, 2010 at 7:06PM
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walt2002

"I smell gas in the oil. Do I just have to drain it? Are there other things I should do? What oil should I buy? "

Just let the oil drain good and refill with the oil recommended for your engine in the Owner's Manual which will be SAE30 above 40 degrees. Also change the oil filter if so equipped and don't forget that shut of valve mentioned way back.

Walt Conner

    Bookmark   August 14, 2010 at 7:18PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

The shutoff valve is installed. I'll have to go out again and buy 2 more clamps. :)

I don't have any manual anymore. How do I access the oil filter?

Thanks.

    Bookmark   August 14, 2010 at 7:24PM
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mownie(7)

Virtuosity, click the hyperlink below. It will whisk you to the MTD Yard Machines webpage where you can download free manuals in PDF format. You will need to load in your model number which is 13BN771G729 and the serial number which is 1A176B70097.
You will need the get the Briggs owner's manual to help with finding the oil filter on the engine.
You will also want to get the Yard Machines owner's manual as well to help you find other things and info about the chassis.
If you have never changed the oil filter, you may need to purchase a filter wrench to negotiate this type of filter.
Good luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: your manuals await

    Bookmark   August 14, 2010 at 8:11PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Thanks for the help! I really appreciate it. :)

    Bookmark   August 14, 2010 at 9:35PM
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walt2002

"You will need the get the Briggs owner's manual to help with finding the oil filter on the engine. "

Are you kidding? IF it has a blankety blank oil filter, it will be sticking out the right side when facing the head of the engine. Can't see one, it don't have one.

You should be able to download a free Service Manual at - http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/

Walt Conner

    Bookmark   August 14, 2010 at 9:55PM
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mownie(7)

Thanks Walt!

    Bookmark   August 14, 2010 at 10:10PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

I'll take a picture of the other side. There is a black cylinder that I see about 4 inches long. I am not sure if that's the one.

    Bookmark   August 14, 2010 at 10:25PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Here are the latest pictures.

Does it show that my tractor uses oil filter?

The picture below shows the new fuel filter and inline shut off valve. I need 2 more clamps.

    Bookmark   August 15, 2010 at 1:49AM
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baymee(LehighValleyPA)

I see the electric starter (cylinder), but no oil filter. How about on the other side? It would look similar to the starter.

    Bookmark   August 15, 2010 at 5:52AM
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mownie(7)

Alas, it seems that MTD Yard Machines decided not to use the filtered version of this 31 series engine.
That makes it all the more important that you change the oil more often.
Change the oil about every 25 to 30 hours of use.
If your tractor does not have an hour meter (and I have no reason to think it would) you will need to devise a plan for keeping tabs on the hours used.
My way to do that is to use a small wire bound note book (3" X 5" pages) and record the date, and amount of time you used the machine on that date.
When the total "run time" amounts to 25 to 30 hours, change the oil.
It is best to drain the oil when the engine is good and hot, so tally your run times as soon as you are finished using the tractor and you will be able to "anticipate" when the oil change service needs to be performed.
When the tally shows the oil change will be due after your NEXT use, plan ahead for the event and change the oil as soon as you get finished mowing the NEXT time.
The way I handle this on my OPE is to set out all the stuff I'll need for the oil change BEFORE I begin mowing.
This does 2 things for me. It saves me the time of digging out my drain pan and the necessary tools, and it reminds me that I am supposed to change the oil "RIGHT NOW" when I'm finished.
Be sure you enter the date of the oil change in your notes.
It is vital that the oil be changed while it is still hot from use. While the oil is hot, it still holds most of the contaminants and fine particles of dirt and carbon in suspension. Drain the oil hot and most of that harmful junk goes out with the oil.
If the oil is allowed to cool before draining, much of the solid trash simply settles to the bottom of the engine and stays there during the oil change. But it does not simply stay stuck to the bottom, the next time you run the engine this batch of solid junk will be picked up as the oil warms to be circulated throughout the engine parts.
In my opinion, draining the oil when cold actually is not much better than not changing the oil at all, especially if the engine does not feature an oil filter.

Of course, I am referring to a "scheduled, preventive maintenance" type of oil change.
The oil change you need to do now (because of gasoline leaking into the engine) must be done BEFORE you run the engine again, and that means it will be cold. But you don't want to run an engine that has gas in the oil at all.
So drain this oil cold and record this date as "Oil changed" in your notes. And start your tally sheet for the next oil change.

    Bookmark   August 15, 2010 at 9:20AM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Awesome! All I have to do then is drain the oil and put a new one in. :)

And you are correct, I remember reading from the manuual yesterday that the oil should be changed every 30 hours. ;)

I need to read the manual again since I couldn't find which type of oil I should put.

Thanks everyone for the help!!!!!!! :D

    Bookmark   August 15, 2010 at 10:04AM
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ewalk

Vlr: Just a further word of advice from Mownies excellent suggestions. I would ensure to keep an eye on your Oil level (consumption) and colour during the next few cuts . I would further suggest you reduce the time frame hrs for your next oil change since residual gas (solvent) will remain within your engine within (sludge deposits in the pan). If you don't experience any smoking or rapid discolouration (dirty colour) soon after the oil change then your fine . Some gradual but soon discolouration is fine since the small amount of residual fuel in the oil will be an engine cleaner . No biggy some Automobile Engine mechanics use to actually add some varsol to oil , then run the engine for 20 minutes then change oil and filter to reduce engine sludge with the oil galleries as a "Engine Internal Wash" . Basically what I'am saying just change your oil a little earlier this next time not 30 hrs running time later.

P.S. Nice Tractor and nice photos Bro !

    Bookmark   August 15, 2010 at 11:17AM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Awesome! Will do! :)

    Bookmark   August 15, 2010 at 11:29AM
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rustyj14(W/PA)

And, the preceding is just why i can find nice lawn tractors, with bad engines, to buy for cheap! Yassuh!
the saying: "You can lead a horse to water, but ya can't make him drink", is so true!

    Bookmark   August 15, 2010 at 3:14PM
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ewalk

Rusty: The Phrase I most likely Coin is "You can lead a Horse to Water , but sometimes must drown them to Drink!"

P.S. It's True a Actual Dealer had a Mechanic Friend of mine tell the Customer we will perform a Engine Clean
via the Varsol Addition. Asked my Friend if the Customer asked if the Dealer would then Honour the Warranty on the Engine lol !

Note: Just a reminder Vlr any smoking or unusual oil consumption long term (more than 1/2 hr duration) after Oil Change should Que. you to inspect further . You should be fine I'am always a little cautious with fuel carry over into Oil Sump .

    Bookmark   August 15, 2010 at 5:05PM
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mownie(7)

I know precisely what rusty is talking about. It has nothing to do with "Varsol".
crusty rusty has a certain wit about him. :^)

    Bookmark   August 15, 2010 at 6:27PM
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bushleague(MA)

Replacing for float needle for a couple of bucks wouldn't be a bad idea, should you forget to turn the fuel cock off. Are you bagging your grass as I didn't see a deflector on the mower deck?

    Bookmark   August 15, 2010 at 9:06PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Just got home. Are you saying guys that I smoking can happen?

bushleague, I'm mulching. My mower has a mulching kit installed.

    Bookmark   August 15, 2010 at 9:09PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Here is an update. I've finally completed the oil draining. I'm lucky to find an empty Costco milk jug. I had fun with some art assignment this evening. HEHEHE! :D

Anyways, similar to what I asked earlier, is there a chance that the engine will smoke?

Oh, the oil is black!

    Bookmark   August 15, 2010 at 11:02PM
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ewalk

Vlr: Yes the Oil is very Black ! As I indicated the solvent effect of the gasoline carryover has cleaned out sludge residue within your crankcase most likely. You have not run the engine for any prolonged period since the flooding problem , so any residual gas should be removed with the new oil , As suggested keep an eye on any smoking or excessive oil consumption after approx 1/2 of run time .
I would think all will be fine . Just keep an eye on things and change your oil a little earlier and ensure you have a inline gas shutoff valve installed . I believe you have probably already been informed of this last safety measure lol . Good Luck ..let us know how you fair :)

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 1:08AM
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baymee(LehighValleyPA)

I like your oil drain funnel. It's giving me some ideas. I would spend a couple bucks and install a short nipple and cap on your drain port, like the snowblowers use.

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 5:46AM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Can you please show me an image of the short nipple and cap?

Thanks!

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 9:10AM
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mownie(7)

***"please show me an image of the short nipple and cap"***
Will comply.
The nipple and cap are available at any hardware store or home center.
Carry the pipe plug with you for a match-up of the thread size. I believe the threads are "3/8" NPT" but I am hesitant to state that size from memory. Possibly one of the other members can confirm or refute that size.

You will need to measure (with a ruler), the distance from the engine oil drain plug over to a point beyond the edge of the frame where you would like for the oil to drain into a funnel, or directly into a catch pan.
The nipples are available in various lengths.
Depending on the stock of your store, they might be found in different lengths "by 1" increments", but usually after 4" length, it jumps by 2" increments between length sizes.

You will need to buy the smallest tube or bottle of thread sealing compound you can find to seal the threads where the nipple will screw into the engine.
DO NOT buy thread sealant that is only for household plumbing work!!!!!!!
Be sure to get thread sealant that is rated for use with petroleum products.

Install the nipple with fingers at first (to assure it's not cross-threaded) and then tighten using Vise-grip pliers.

I suggest getting a hex headed pipe cap so you can manage it with a standard wrench or socket. You need to coat the threads of the nipple with thread sealant before capping the nipple.
Always "hold" the nipple from turning (using your Vise-grips) whenever you are tightening or loosening the pipe cap.

Teflon tape is an acceptable substitute for semi-liquid thread sealant, but it requires that the tape be "wound or wrapped" in the CORRECT direction on the treads or it might be less effective against leaks.

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 10:32AM
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baymee(LehighValleyPA)

Somebody was buffing that baby!

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 11:23AM
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mownie(7)

Nope! Photoshop to get rid of "identifying details".
:^)

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 11:42AM
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popcornhill

vlrtu0s1ty you are doing GREAT. I do not know what you do or did for a living but I best you are/were the best! That funnel shows some real problem solving techniques. The only problem here is your lonnnng pen name. We gotta get you a shorter handle!

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 11:43AM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

That is awesome mownie!!! :D

That's going to make draining of oil easier and cleaner! :D I'll buy it in a few. And yup, I will post pictures, hehehe. :P

Thanks again!

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 11:45AM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

You can call me Neil, my real nick :D

popcornhill, I do programming as my main job. I love gardening. I also do carpentry. hehehe :D

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 11:51AM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

I forgot to say that without the tremendous help from the folks here, I don't think I'll be able to remedy this issue.

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 11:54AM
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mownie(7)

***"call me Neil"***
or we could just use the root word and call you "virtue".
:^)

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 12:55PM
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ewalk

Virtue , Like the sound of that lol !

Programmer ..huh...would have thought Stealth Fighter R&D or least Kite Engineering 101 with the Design Factors Involved in that Plastic Bottle / Funnel Retro-fit ! :)

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 4:06PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

hehehe! :D

Anyways, my tractor is back in the saddle!!! :D Did get some minor smoking and strong gasoline smell. Drove it for few minutes and everything is gone. I had an oil spill on the floor though to where I was working. I left it in my garage and I will check it after an hour.

I'll take pictures again! HAHAHA!

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 4:13PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Here are the final pics. I would like to thank everyone for helping me fix my tractor's problem. :)

Draining of oil will be easier now but I've got some very minor obsctacle, that black metal. It attaches the stirring wheel the the front wheel. I have to remove it before I can untighten the brass cap. It's easy. :)

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 9:16PM
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baymee(LehighValleyPA)

Does turning the wheel to the left or right move the rod out of the way?

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 5:50AM
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ewalk

vlr" Ifin you find the (Black) Tie-rod removal bother some you could substitute a True Close Nipple (shorter) for the longer Consumer 2-1/2" nipple you are currently using. Use Permatex on the block nipple threads as a sealant and Teflon on the Hex Cap end . The Teflon will allow removal of the cap without the piping nipple coming loose .

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 5:52AM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

baymee,

I think the rod touches the brass cap slightly when I turn it to the left.

ewalk,

The one I put says 1 inch on the package. The length of the brass cap is 9/16".

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 9:32AM
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baymee(LehighValleyPA)

There are also drain plugs that use a finger twist and pull out feature. They are much easier to use and might be ideal in a situation like yours. The end has a connection for a short tube. I like my own on the tractors.

In fact, there are many types of convenient drain systems.

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 11:14AM
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mownie(7)

"Drag link", not "tie rod", is hitting pipe cap.
How about looking on the opposite side of the engine to see if Briggs provided a sump drain there.
Typically, an engine may have more than one sump drain just because there is no way for a single drain to be accessible in all applications.
If there is an additional drain port on the opposite side of engine, that one may be free of any interference from other components. Picture if necessary please.

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 12:00PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Can you please show me a link?

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 12:01PM
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mownie(7)

I'm not sure if you are asking me to point out the "Drag Link", or if you are asking for a link to a picture of the opposite side of your engine?????
If you wanted me to point out the drag link, see image below.

If you are asking for a picture of the opposite side of your engine........you will have to provide us with that picture, we don't have it.

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 12:43PM
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ewalk

Vlr: Mownie is correct proper terminology for lawn tractor would be "DRAG LINK" Sorry us Former Snowmobile Racers called them tie-rods on our Independent Front Ends.

Note: Although baymee is correct as to numerous other drain extension adders , I think the easiest and strongest solution to your obstruction issue is to as advised just shorten the nipple length . As a former Steamfitter I would have used a common Pipe Cap with a close nipple to allow ease of oil change without the interference issue with either a 6" pipe wrench or vise grips , but that's hind site now . I would think that you probably prefer the Hex Cap for convenience reasons lol. The main thing is that you have the Oil contamination and fuel leak issues behind you !

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 1:18PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Oh, I was asking for a picture of another oil drain solution he mentioned earlier. Sorry.

I wasn't aware that a post was made when I posted after baymee. Maybe you beat my post in few milliseconds. :D Then after I submitted it, I didn't look at my post anymore.

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 1:25PM
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ewalk

Vlr: Mownie was asking YOU to show pic of the LEFT side of Tractors Engine "DRAG LINK LOCATION" for possible drain plug location accessibility lol . I would think that both sides have the same Drag link orientation and doubt duplication of Oil Sump draining capability . Actually I like your funnel adaptation , but I guess the spillage become Old Quick huh ?

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 1:39PM
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mownie(7)

And I was suggesting YOU take another picture of the opposite side of the engine, so it can be determined if a second, alternate oil drain might be present.

Ewalk's suggestion of using a "close nipple" could be an answer to the rub, but you would need to be very specific in choosing the configuration of the close nipple.
The reason for that is because of the circumstances in how this applies to your engine.

Specifically, you have a threaded steel pipe screwing into an aluminum hole with female threads at one end, on the other end of the pipe, you have male threads of the pipe screwing into female threads of the brass cap.
In practice, when the engine heats up, the aluminum block expands (grows wider) around the pipe, which tends to loosen the grip of the engine to the pipe.
On the opposite end of the nipple, a brass cap threads onto the steel pipe. When the steel pipe heats up, it expands more than the brass cap, causing the brass cap to grip the pipe with a stronger hold.
The result of all this is that unless you hold the pipe nipple from turning when you attempt to loosen the cap..........the entire pipe nipple will unscrew from the engine.......and you are no better off than if you just left the OEM square headed plug in place as your oil drain facility.
Using a "close nipple" known as an "all thread" (which is the most common form) will not leave enough open space between the engine and the cap for you to latch onto the nipple with Vise-grips.
But.......there are close nipples available that feature a hex shaped wrench flat in the center of the nipple length, But you will not find these at every place that sells the common plumbing stuff.
Bottom line is: If you use any kind of nipple and cap, the nipple must be held from turning when loosening the cap.
And don'tr anybody think they can just increase the torque applied to the nipple threaded into the engine, if you over-tighten that baby you might crack the engine block casting! Try fixing that in your home garage!

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 1:50PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Sorry for not answering earlier if there was an oil drain on the other side. There is none. However, the drag link on the left side is the same as the other side.

Are you saying that using steel nipple and brass cap isn't a good idea? I just followed what was suggested. Please let me know if I misunderstood your post about heat and expansion.

About the removal of the brass cap, I am aware about the pipe's turning.

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 2:43PM
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ewalk

Vlr: Don't panic Bro . My recommendation for quick solution is based on what you have just confirmed . Same Drag Link configuration and no redundant (additional) drain point on the Left Side . I would have been very surprised if there had been . Kind of like having to drain plugs in a Oil Pan on your car (not likely). Anyhow to get back on topic . All Screwed (Npt) Piping is Sch. 40 Gauge (wall thickness) therefore it will give off any conducted heat from the Crankcase (limited thermal growth and conduction) I advised to use Permatex Pipe Sealant which would allow sufficient tightness and sealing with either a small vice grip or pipe-wrench. Once the Permatex sets up it will act much like a thread locker . On the drain point end I suggested Teflon tape since it allows easier Pipe Cap removal because of its superior lubricity (less friction) which would faciltate removal of the cap (or Hex Plug) without the nipple backing out when ever draining is needed. Do however apply common sence when tightening , just a little over hand tight is adequate for the nipple and even less with the cap with the Teflon on that end . Cheers !

Note: I recall well within Colledge Hydraulic's 101 that the Professor Preached (seriously) the proper Thread Fit Class and that no Teflon Tape or Pipe Dope be used . Rather that a Properly Cut "A" Class Thread with slight addition of Hyd. Oil for lubicity to allow Thread Root to seat was all that was needed. The Anti-Tape or Pipe Thread Compound was do to numerous incidents of the sealant fouling the internal passages of Direction Valves & associated Equipment . Sorry for the Hydraulics 101 Lesson just had a Flash Back to my Trade School Days lol .

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 9:11PM
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baymee(LehighValleyPA)

I do know that teflon tape cannot be used with any fuel-oil pumps, as it will ruin them.

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 9:15PM
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walt2002

I have used pipe nipples in engine drains with no problem. Cleaning the threads and using some Loc-Tite, not the Red, may help. While I have brass caps as shown, I am just as likely to use a plain old black OR galvanized pipe cap, just don't tighten this as tight as the pipe nipple to engine block and I don't use tape. Holding the pipe nipple with channel locks while loosening the cap may make you feel better but I never had a problem.

What I really like to do on Dixons that I work with mainly now days, is run a street el into the engine block, a nipple of appropriate length to get to a clear spot and a cap OR another 90 degree el out or down, down at an angle, where ever clearance is and a plug in that. Some times that necessitates a clamp to hold nipple depending on length.

Engine generally has to be unbolted and lifted enough to provide clearance while threading in street el OR short nipple with 90 degree el, again, depending on clearance.

Walt Conner

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 10:32PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Thanks guys! All of you are amazing! :D

By the way, I posted another thread on the mower forum. It's about my edger. Maybe you guys can check it and recommend some things I should do.

I'm attaching the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: My edger has a problem

    Bookmark   August 18, 2010 at 12:33AM
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baymee(LehighValleyPA)

I've used a small standard plumbing ball valve on my Wheelhorse for years as a drain. For peace of mind, I finger tighten a plug into the open end of the valve. I don't do this, but you could use a barbed threaded fitting with a hose to screw into the valve for changing oil.

    Bookmark   August 18, 2010 at 6:18AM
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walt2002

"you could use a barbed threaded fitting with a hose to screw into the valve for changing oil."

Or just continue to use your neat funnel you made.

Walt Conner

    Bookmark   August 18, 2010 at 8:24AM
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ewalk

Rusty I like your advice on the 90 Degree Street Elbow . Don't know if there would be sufficient End to Centre Dimension to clear the frame for draining any better than the Close Nipple and Pipe Cap , but it certainly would eliminate the clearance problem with the Drag-link . Actually Vlr could use a Strato-flex WOG. Rated (Braided) 4" Hose Assembly Threaded at both end and cap it off when not draining with or without Teflon or Permatex your call. A little more expensive but guarantee's a environmentally Green Solution (No Spillage) . Actually with the time and effort the Dude has taken with the Artistic Funnel I would hate to see him retire it lol.

    Bookmark   August 18, 2010 at 12:05PM
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baymee(LehighValleyPA)

It's possible you could put a 45º street on the end of that nipple, or even a coupler and use a plug.

    Bookmark   August 18, 2010 at 4:16PM
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ewalk

Baymee: Yes a 45 Degree elbow in conjunction with the street Elb. would clear the impediment but a additional close nipple would be required. However it may well work none the less . Numerous creative ways to achieve the drainage lol .

    Bookmark   August 18, 2010 at 6:54PM
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walt2002

"Rusty I like your advice on the 90 Degree Street Elbow"

I am not Rusty, I am the other crusty old codger.

Walt Conner

    Bookmark   August 18, 2010 at 10:07PM
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ewalk

Sorry Walt my apology Freudian slip , guess I'am the 3rd Old dyslexic Codger ! lol :).

    Bookmark   August 19, 2010 at 2:37AM
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baymee(LehighValleyPA)

No, what I mean is that you use a short nipple and a 45º street or coupler. No 90 used at all.

    Bookmark   August 19, 2010 at 6:10AM
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doberman_2007

That funnel is the great,from what I see you are a pretty good mechanic, with a little help hats off to a good job and of course all the great advice on this thread.....

    Bookmark   August 19, 2010 at 8:34PM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

Thanks for all the tips guys!!! :D

By the way, I received my deck wheels today. I'll install it later even if it's already past 11pm. HAHAHA! :D

    Bookmark   August 21, 2010 at 12:11AM
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v1rtu0s1ty(5a)

By the way, there is a lawn about 2 miles from my house, it is so perfectly flat. The height is so very even. It's real because I saw a small dead patch the other day. The average height of the grass was(based from my where I was) around 2"-2.5". I'm pretty sure that his neighbors are jealous with his lawn because I am, hahaha. :D

Oh, I also noticed as if it is not growing. It's always perfect. I've seen it more than 50 times this year since I always use that street to get to the main road.

    Bookmark   August 21, 2010 at 1:03PM
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