Yellow leaves on Capital Pear

jaxoOctober 22, 2013

I had this tree planted about a week ago.
It was moved again a few days ago because it was too close to the fence the first time.
I had two planted on the same day.
One has dark green leaves that look healthy and the one pictured below has yellow leaves,
The leaves turned this color within the last day or so,
I'm wondering if it is a watering issue of too much or too little, or damage for being moved more than once or if it is just getting ready to lose leaves for fall.
The tree is might actually be a bit too close to concrete and it may need to be moved a third time.
If it was damaged or stressed from being re-transplanted multiple times in a week, I wonder if another move will kill it and maybe I should just dispose of it now it and get a replacement that only gets planted once in the correct spot when I can watch them install it,

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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

you again??? .. lol ... just finished your post in the conifer forum re: juniper ...

first off... its nearly november in the northern hemisphere ... how long do you expect this thing to hold old leaves????

second.. its supremely stressed.. so what is it going to sacrifice??? .. the leaves ... that does NOT surprise me ...

third ... if you get rid of every deciduous tree that loses its leaves in fall ... you wont have any ...

why dont you leave it alone .. for winter..

as to watering.. water when it needs it ...deep and long ... then let it NEAR DRY before you do so again ... insert finger or use a hand trowel .. TO FIND OUT .... no one can tell you how to water in YOUR SOIL ... but in NOVEMBER ... with proper mulch.. it might not need water for weeks or months... with cool days.. and cold nights.. even in your CA ... there are simply no hot days and hot nights.. to pull moisture from the soil ....

finally ... as per that other post... this thing can last a few decades ... your need for instant gratification.. is frustrating you ...

there is a spring planting period also ... why dont you let this thing recover a bit... and decide on its final location.. and then move it one more time ...

or just chuck it.. it is a pear ... i have no clue.. why you opted for this ???? didnt anyone tell you about the flowers that smell like gym socks left in a gym bag in the trunk for a month ... and the facts that the birds spread the seeds everywhere.. and that it is invasive in some areas [no idea about CA] .... and most pears are weakly crotched and prone to breaking.. in the far future [though again.. you wont have to worry about ice load] ..... frankly.. over the decades i have had 3 or 4 varieties... and but for being 150 feet from the house.. and pretty for a week in spring.. i got nothing good to say about such ... if you couldnt tell .. lol

good luck


ps: i am not familiar with this specific one.. and not researching it.. maybe this is a new .. better .. pear?? .. but i wouldnt bet my shiny nickle on that.. lol ..

    Bookmark   October 22, 2013 at 7:45AM
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It's still warm here. Daytime temps will be in the 70s for at least a few more weeks and I don't see any other trees in this neighborhood losing leaves yet including an identical tree planted on the other side of the patio.

This is an ornamental pear that I got specifically because it doesn't need a lot of open space around it for roots, or branches, but the landscaping people first planted it too close to the fence and then too close to the flagstone.
I will need to get it replanted so that it has the maximum amount of the limited available space around it and I figured it would be better to move it while it's still very young and small.
It should look like this photo when it gets large.

    Bookmark   October 22, 2013 at 9:23AM
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brandon7 TN_zone(7)

Like Ken said, you need to check the soil a few inches down to judge the level of moisture and whether you need to water more, less, or about the same. Check the moisture level in the soil surrounding the rootball AND in the rootball. If the soil in your rootball is different than the soil surrounding the rootball, you can have either a rootball that holds water while the surrounding soil dries out, or, a rootball that dries out way faster than the surrounding soil.

Without knowing a lot of detail, it's really impossible for us to know whether the tree is suffering or why it seems to be behaving differently than the other one. Normally, if a tree is moved shortly after being transplanted, and it's done right, it shouldn't make much difference. The completely unestablished tree really shouldn't even notice it's been moved. However, if the rootball fell apart or something went wrong, then your tree may be suffering (but we have no way of knowing why unless we were there or you know what happened and tell us).

I'm a little confused about your comment that the tree won't "need a lot of open space around it for roots." It will need just as much room as most other trees of similar size. While the canopy will be somewhat columnar, the root system won't be. It's your house and your decision, but choosing a callery pear does seem like a decision I wouldn't have made.

Below is a link to planting instructions for woody plants. You may want to review it and see if you see anything that wasn't done, or was done differently, when your tree was planted...and then replanted.

Here is a link that might be useful: Planting a Tree or Shrub

    Bookmark   October 22, 2013 at 9:23PM
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