Vegetable Gardening
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23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I have a couple of those Hav-a-Hart traps (rectangular cages for live trapping) that I in front of any openings in the fence, like little tunnels that are dug under the fence. I haven't had much luck just putting the traps in the garden or along the fence on the outside even if they're baited. I do much better by placing them in front of an existing tunnel under the fence for the veggie garden. For my fruit trees, I've had luck with baited traps at the base of the trees.
I have problems with groundhogs. I have witnessed them eating my spinach, lettuces, broccoli and strawberries. I trap them but it is hard to keep up since we have an overabundance of groundhogs. I have an electric fence around my garden (because of past deer problems) but normally left it off in the daytime. I've since turned it on all day and added a motion sensor sprinkler. I may need to add a lower wire to fence. Your problem sounds like groundhogs.
'DE is a harmless pesticide which works by physical means to kill and repel pests.' The point is that DE kills all insects. It does not differentiate between pest species and beneficials. It will kill a bee or a lady bug just as efficiently as a flee beetle or an earwig. So it is best not to use it until there is a definite problem to cure. Some pests will be dealt with by their natural predators if one can just hold off from the desire to deal with a problem the moment it appears. Aphids, for example, are often cleared up by ladybugs if one just gives them a few days to get to work.
These were transplants from inside. I took them out daily for just a few hours at a time and gradually introduced them to sunlight. Guess I didn't harden them long enough :( Should I pinch off that single cuke so the plant can revive or is it fine? It's the only one. The one on the right seems fine though.
Ahhh, Lesson learned. Yep. Hardening off really should be described as about a TWO week process. I did the same thing myself this year with some of my peppers and I've been growing them for over 12 years...lol
Should be fine though.
It's up to you on snipping that 1st one. Are you hungry? lol Snipping it will give you a quick bite now or leaving it will give you an early treat. Snipping it will tell the plant to start putting out more foliage and flowers.. always a good thing for a healthy young plant.
Me? I'd leave it, but I have a very long season. All depends on whether you're pickling or not. If pickling, snip it. I like to have a lot to pickle at one time -- the older the plants and the more the plants allows that to happen.
Kevin
Phee, please say that you'll call Bonide! They are there to help you! Who knows, maybe they'll tell you to give your harvested veggies a vinegar bath or something to dissolve the gook. I doubt it, but you won't know until you ask.
Rest assured that you aren't the first to make this mistake and it won't be the last. They will be used to answering this question.
Agree with all the advice given.
Rule of thumb---- IDENTIFY pest FIRST, then treat with the least invasive(humans to bacteria alike) method on upwards.
Example: Aphids.......
Research Integrated Pest Management(biocontrol)
Squish
Water treatments with a jet spray every 3-4 days
Insecticidal soap treatments(same interval)
Neem oil(same interval)
If you have to go further than neem, you're doing something wrong... refer to biocontrol. Think diversity.
Now, not ALL pests can be dealt with as easily as aphids. But the same general rule applies... Identify, THEN treat.
Good luck.
Kevin
Same kind of worm and damage happened to my collards and broccoli .... you can see the chewed up mess the worm leaves from the inside of the plant... the leaf wilts but not the entire plant, look closely and you'll find the little hole... and finally the worm... I love Bt, just didn't spray it early enough.
Nash, yes 2 gal/day, a few days a week does seem excessive. Remember you are only watering the root zone of each plant with drip and not the space in between. What your target should be is to approximate a 1 - 2 inch weekly rainfall with your irrigation. When there's no rain of course. Where you fall in that range depends on temperature, soil texture, crop stage, etc, etc. To really simplify things I try to deliver about 1 gal for every square foot of root zone per week. I believe a one-inch rainfall would give you a bit more than a half- gal over every ft2. That may mean having diff numbers of emitters for diff sized plants if that's an option for you. And of course leaving the system on longer as plants reach mature size.
If you're giving a young pepper plant 2 gal/day that's really enough for the whole week. If you had more organic matter and/or mulched more, you'd need alot less. That's the way I think of it so I have a good starting point and then I can tweak it as the season goes on. As I suggested before, actually dig with a shovel down to 6 or so inches to give you an idea of how moist it is after irrigating. It takes water several hours to percolate down 6 inches if you have a decent amount of clay, so keep that it mind. Maybe you could have an emitter that doesn;t have something planted by it so you could dig without disturbing roots. Just some ideas, hope it helps.
I do pop the blossoms (or small fruit) off until mine are showing good growth after planting, generally two-three weeks minimum. Once they show me the growth in both height and bushing (and healthy color), then I can't wait! I do read that some disagree and say that you're just losing the first tomatoes, but I don't think there's a set number of fruit on an indeterminate plant. So, I don't know if it's a climate thing, a soil thing, or what, but my tomato plants average about twice the size of others in my community garden. I see so many foot tall plants with clusters of fruit on them, which only get about two-three feet tall after, compared with my 8'+. I think it keeps putting energy into the fruit instead of root growth which is what I want to force deep first thing to withstand the sun once it gets hot.
Agree with the other responses. Very hard to tell until they bloom. The flowers are white instead of yellow, and (in my experience, may not apply to all species), wild cucumber flowers are very fragrant. Of course, once fruit forms you will know immediately...with the giant spikes and all. :)
I imagine they meant done planting. I'm wishing I was in the same boat, there is never enough time.
I'm pretty sure the OP means the building/planting part is done. It looks great! The fence around it is very sharp and the mulch makes it look very tidy. How do you get inside to work? I assume there are gates somewhere? I don't see paths, so do you just walk on the mulch between the plants?