24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Ahhh, Lesson learned. Yep. Hardening off really should be described as about a TWO week process. I did the same thing myself this year with some of my peppers and I've been growing them for over 12 years...lol

Should be fine though.

It's up to you on snipping that 1st one. Are you hungry? lol Snipping it will give you a quick bite now or leaving it will give you an early treat. Snipping it will tell the plant to start putting out more foliage and flowers.. always a good thing for a healthy young plant.

Me? I'd leave it, but I have a very long season. All depends on whether you're pickling or not. If pickling, snip it. I like to have a lot to pickle at one time -- the older the plants and the more the plants allows that to happen.

Kevin

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Tiffany, Portland OR Zone 8b

Thank you for the advise, I will do a good deep watering today. Obviously Id like to keep my lil cuke but I'm more concerned about the health of the plant. I hate watching the flowers fall off and die before they even open. Breaks my heart.

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shoegaze99

THANK YOU BOTH!

I'm really glad I asked first, because I was strongly considering just going out there and doing it.

They are not staked and supported by twine and, I suppose, each other. Now I'll just cross my fingers and hope for a delicious crop. I'll also have learned for next year.

This is my first year gardening, and I could not be having more fun. Where has this hobby been all my life?

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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

My best tip for peas is to push twiggy prunings in around them. I prefer to hold peas up off the ground so they stay clean and hang down for easy harvesting.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

No IME that is not normal. You will usually see slips sprouting before the potato sprouts much in the way of roots itself. Use the search to pull up all the other posts about growing sweet potato slips. Many of the recent ones have pics included.

Dave

Here's one pic I found

http://www.motherearthnews.com/~/media/Images/MEN/Editorial/Articles/Magazine%20Articles/1985/05-01/Sweet%20Potatoes%20Slips/1985%2005%20slipping%20sweet%20potatoes%2001%20sweet%20potato%20slips%20550p%20jpg.jpg

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eciton(zone 7)

Mine made roots way before sprouts this year. Dunno if its age of potato or not that determines it. They produced sprouts eventually and those are in yhr garden now. I'd say give it time

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vamtngranny

Hmm, well, I bought the Coleman model from johnnys and like it a lot. I weigh about 110 so I can't handle something too "beastly." I like working it down all my beds at the beginning of the season to aerate and I can find all the rocks that have come up over the winter.

A friend who also has one did bend it. Don't know if she was a lot harder on it or what but perhaps it should have stood up better.

I think the closer-tiner model is probably better for finding potatoes.

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eciton(zone 7)

Here's mine 22" wide 4 tine along with 18" "sharpshooter" spade with sched 40 pipe handle. That bugger can really break down deep into our clay

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bart1(6/7 Northern VA)

I have a couple of those Hav-a-Hart traps (rectangular cages for live trapping) that I in front of any openings in the fence, like little tunnels that are dug under the fence. I haven't had much luck just putting the traps in the garden or along the fence on the outside even if they're baited. I do much better by placing them in front of an existing tunnel under the fence for the veggie garden. For my fruit trees, I've had luck with baited traps at the base of the trees.

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maplegarden172(7a)

I have problems with groundhogs. I have witnessed them eating my spinach, lettuces, broccoli and strawberries. I trap them but it is hard to keep up since we have an overabundance of groundhogs. I have an electric fence around my garden (because of past deer problems) but normally left it off in the daytime. I've since turned it on all day and added a motion sensor sprinkler. I may need to add a lower wire to fence. Your problem sounds like groundhogs.

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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

'DE is a harmless pesticide which works by physical means to kill and repel pests.' The point is that DE kills all insects. It does not differentiate between pest species and beneficials. It will kill a bee or a lady bug just as efficiently as a flee beetle or an earwig. So it is best not to use it until there is a definite problem to cure. Some pests will be dealt with by their natural predators if one can just hold off from the desire to deal with a problem the moment it appears. Aphids, for example, are often cleared up by ladybugs if one just gives them a few days to get to work.

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raspistill

DE can be applied to subdue the infestation, then rinsed off with a hose. My point is that it is harmless to humans and your veggies. To each his own. To the OP, DE is an excellent choice for pest control. Just use it when you need it.

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Larry Welch

Well done.

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redtartan(5a)

Lots of work, good job.

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

Phee, please say that you'll call Bonide! They are there to help you! Who knows, maybe they'll tell you to give your harvested veggies a vinegar bath or something to dissolve the gook. I doubt it, but you won't know until you ask.

Rest assured that you aren't the first to make this mistake and it won't be the last. They will be used to answering this question.

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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Agree with all the advice given.

Rule of thumb---- IDENTIFY pest FIRST, then treat with the least invasive(humans to bacteria alike) method on upwards.

Example: Aphids.......
Research Integrated Pest Management(biocontrol)
Squish
Water treatments with a jet spray every 3-4 days
Insecticidal soap treatments(same interval)
Neem oil(same interval)

If you have to go further than neem, you're doing something wrong... refer to biocontrol. Think diversity.

Now, not ALL pests can be dealt with as easily as aphids. But the same general rule applies... Identify, THEN treat.

Good luck.

Kevin

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cenflagirl

Same kind of worm and damage happened to my collards and broccoli .... you can see the chewed up mess the worm leaves from the inside of the plant... the leaf wilts but not the entire plant, look closely and you'll find the little hole... and finally the worm... I love Bt, just didn't spray it early enough.

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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

+ on Bt

Totally organic, available anywhere, VERY target specific, cheap!

Kevin

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dave_f1 SC, USDA Zone 8a(7b)

Nash, yes 2 gal/day, a few days a week does seem excessive. Remember you are only watering the root zone of each plant with drip and not the space in between. What your target should be is to approximate a 1 - 2 inch weekly rainfall with your irrigation. When there's no rain of course. Where you fall in that range depends on temperature, soil texture, crop stage, etc, etc. To really simplify things I try to deliver about 1 gal for every square foot of root zone per week. I believe a one-inch rainfall would give you a bit more than a half- gal over every ft2. That may mean having diff numbers of emitters for diff sized plants if that's an option for you. And of course leaving the system on longer as plants reach mature size.

If you're giving a young pepper plant 2 gal/day that's really enough for the whole week. If you had more organic matter and/or mulched more, you'd need alot less. That's the way I think of it so I have a good starting point and then I can tweak it as the season goes on. As I suggested before, actually dig with a shovel down to 6 or so inches to give you an idea of how moist it is after irrigating. It takes water several hours to percolate down 6 inches if you have a decent amount of clay, so keep that it mind. Maybe you could have an emitter that doesn;t have something planted by it so you could dig without disturbing roots. Just some ideas, hope it helps.

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balloonflower(5b Denver CO)

I do pop the blossoms (or small fruit) off until mine are showing good growth after planting, generally two-three weeks minimum. Once they show me the growth in both height and bushing (and healthy color), then I can't wait! I do read that some disagree and say that you're just losing the first tomatoes, but I don't think there's a set number of fruit on an indeterminate plant. So, I don't know if it's a climate thing, a soil thing, or what, but my tomato plants average about twice the size of others in my community garden. I see so many foot tall plants with clusters of fruit on them, which only get about two-three feet tall after, compared with my 8'+. I think it keeps putting energy into the fruit instead of root growth which is what I want to force deep first thing to withstand the sun once it gets hot.

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pitcom(6b SE Pa)

You can plant it now. Lacinto and blue curled scotch will grow and produce all summer long. I have had lacinto stalks grow over 3 feet tall as we pick the outer leaves all summer. Just keep and eye out for cabbage loopers, lacinto is a magnet for them.

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little_minnie(zone 4a)

In MN I grow kale all summer long but I lay off harvest during hot spells.

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annew21(7b NC)

Agree with the other responses. Very hard to tell until they bloom. The flowers are white instead of yellow, and (in my experience, may not apply to all species), wild cucumber flowers are very fragrant. Of course, once fruit forms you will know immediately...with the giant spikes and all. :)

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otcay

Are the wild ones edible, or perhaps I should say, are they palatable?

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

Older watermelon leaves may age some, but if the plants keep almost all healthy leaves, all likely is well.

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cenflagirl

What kind of camera did you take this shot with? Awesome closeness!

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RedSun (Zone 6, NJ)

dave_f1 SC, I took your "Maybe you can just eat your leftover tubers." as insulting. If I'm mistaken, I apologize and I can remove my post.

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RedSun (Zone 6, NJ)

I just planted my purple sweet potato today. This is the one I have been talking about:

The slip has almost no root. The boots are actually at the tuber. So I cut a small piece of the tuber and planted the whole thing. I just want to attach the roots if the slip has no roots.

Here is a regular slip:

Field planted:

The front (left) are the slips with full roots (two with attached tubers). Most of the back row (right) are the rootless slips I chopped off the main slips. The rootless slips were housed inside for about a week and have grown roots about 1/2" to 1" long.

Thx for the "help"....

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