23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Yes, all of the above should be of some help. However, I occasionally remind people of a simple, effective treatment learned many years ago. As a furrow/planting hole is made to plant beans, carrots, parsnips, tomatoes, etc. (either young plants or seeds) toss in handfuls of regular granulated sugar and plant as usual.
For those with large gardens 40# bags of dried molasses can be substituted for granulated sugar. Available where horse feed is sold. This year we are trialing a dry molasses mix that has dried kale added. This is all that was available here. So far all plantings are healthy and repelling the RKN.
For plants that take a bit of time to mature it would be wise to scratch in a sugar top dressing halfway through the growing season.
There is still time in your zone to grow some other crops. Give this sugar method a try.
I dont believe so. Everything I've seen of blossom end rot shows the bottom of the fruit as being black and molding. This looks perfectly normal except up close it looks like its shriveling a little and when I felt for firmness it was soft. Soft as in it gives just a little
when I go back in a few days (my garden is at a friend's house) if it hasnt gotten any better or worse, I'll take a photo
Not warm enough.
Cucurbits need warm temperatures to take off. I would say 70s ++ and night temps over 50.
All these years gardening I have killed more cucumbers than any thing else, by planting too early, from seeds, from store bought starts
At least 1 study has shown that commercial vegetable washes are no more effective than tap water for removing pesticide residue. Rubbing the produce (and using a brush for thicker-skinned vegeables) helps more b/c it's primarily the mechanical action that removes the residues and dirt, not the "solvent".
I wouldn't wash any food with soap (though the study did use 1% dish soap, it didn't say anything negative about it but it wasn't any better than plain water), but have used vinegar to remove wax. Though I try to buy things without wax (I won't even touch grocery store cucumbers) - in fact, I don't buy a whole lot of produce except for apples, carrots, frozen veggies, and canned beans.
I'm not sure about salt, but soaking veggies (not something thin-skinned that might absorb too much water and then split) does help get the creepy crawlies out. But salt won't hurt unless you use a lot of it (salt ice water soak makes cucumbers crisper by drawing water out of the cells).
I think you'd have to wash with bleach solution like you clean countertops with to do any better at removing/killing Listeria like on the fruit that was just recalled. I know some growers use a bleach solution on cantaloupe but I wouldn't use it on peaches. And the FDA is saying not to wash the stone fruit that's recalled, just throw it away (they said the same about cantaloupe a couple years ago) since it may be contaminated internally not just surface.
Here is a link that might be useful: Washing produce
This post was edited by ajsmama on Sun, Jul 27, 14 at 21:17
I always wash melons, apples and cucumbers from the store with watered-down antibacterial dish soap. But I don't with the ones I get from my own garden, those just get rinsed and dried with a paper towel before being refrigerated. I think I'll give the salt-water bath a try. Thanks for sharing that great idea!
Edie
I spray before hand because it is almost a guarantee that cucurbits will get PM so as a preventative, to hopefully avoid it, I spray with 20% whole raw milk and the rest water when they are seedlings (about 4 weeks old) and then after they are planted and again every two weeks or after it rains. Some people also use baking soda and others use potassium bicarbonate which is similar to baking soda. Raw milk works best for me. If only a few leaves have it, I snip them and spray the others. The only problem with snipping is that you can only snip so many leaves and then your fruit risks scald. Whether you decide to keep the infected one or not, I would definitely spray all cucumber plants that don't appear to be infected. Spray entire plant, tops and bottoms. If you have squash, pumpkins and melons, I'd spray them too. Good luck and hope you can maintain your plants and get lots of cukes!
I put the melons where I had the squash last year (maybe not a good idea but had no other room in house garden where I have water). Squash where the mustard and kale was last year, on the east end. Now east end might not be getting enough sun, but west end should be.
Maybe it has been too cool for melons, if they like it warmer than squash, but it's been low 80's. I know the cukes haven't really taken off yet. I just thought the watermelons would be bigger after a month, I don't recall how long it took the 2nd seeds to germinate. I'll give it a couple more weeks and might just pull them and put fall crop in there, or 2nd crop of squash - hoping that Sept stays warm enough for summer squash. It was chancy getting melons by Labor Day anyway, with having to reseed mid-June.
Just getting some slicer cukes now (maybe a day or 2 longer to fill out), pickling cukes just 1/4" long, I have 1 cantaloupe about the size of DD's fist now so I won't pull that. But the other cantaloupe and watermelon plants are just starting to flower - is there any hope for fruit off them (75-80 DTM), maybe if I can put row cover on in Sept? It was a chance reseeding in mid-June when the ones I started Mem Day didn't germinate, was hoping to have watermelon by Labor Day.
If these aren't going to do anything I can use the space for fall crops - in fact, I planted so far apart I could seed something else (maybe more summer squash?) in between the melons. Is that a better plan than pulling them?
I planted beets and chard where I had pulled the bolting lettuce last month, kale where I had more lettuce and then had tried basil a couple of weeks ago (no germination - probably got washed out by the heavy rains even with hay mulch - kale was planted in shallow furrow so I hope yesterday's heavy rains didn't wash those seeds out).
More storms today, maybe next Monday too so I'm waiting with fall lettuce and other tiny seeds. May do some more carrots and cover with burlap as the ones I seeded at the beginning of the month burnt up a little in the heat though I had good quick germination (they're just starting to show ferny foliage now).
Maybe mine need N. I didn't manure that row - though the Cherokee Wax bush beans at the end of that row (trellis doesn't go the whole length) are very lush. Pity since we really liked the taste of the bush BL last year so I thought I'd try the pole to get more production this year. Hope mine fill in too!
Maybe yours got too much N? Have you got a lot of flowers?
Sorry you said Kentucky Blue not Wonder - I was reading and posting on my phone last night and didn't catch that.
Most of my tomatoes got septoria leaf spot after two days of cool rain a couple of weeks ago. The tomatoes are continuing to ripen, and the crop looks pretty good.
I'm trying Plum Regal paste tomato this year for its blight resistance. It had very little early blight and was growing like a champ until the septoria episode. The fruits are bigger than Romas and there are lots of them.
Yes, the days in the 70 are followed by nights in the 50s. We had 45F last week. San Marzano is a southern mediterranean variety, this is no climate for it. Opalka is a polish variety.