23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
In your zone I think you would do better to plant new plants for fall. In the cooler zones they can sometimes get a decent second crop out of it but that never works for me in my zone.
Like planatus I ripped all mine out a month oe so back as it was well past done done and will put in new fall plants.
Dave
I always prefer any of the various romaine types but you might want to ask over on the Hydroponics forum for recommendation on what varieties work best for them when hydroponically grown.
I don't know but I suspect that with hydroponics you'd want to go with stronger flavored leafy greens like arugula, escarole, mesculun, chicory, etc.
Dave
au contraire. I picked a big chicory salad three nights ago, just before the weekly watering, and it was quite bitter. Last night I watered well again a day before, it was much sweeter. Them bitter greens get mild when their feet are in water all the time. My favorite lettuce is light green oakleaf lettuce. Since various types are designated as oakleaf, I am adding a link below to the specific type (I also grow the one at
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Green_Oak_Leaf_lettuce_J1.jpg
much more tender, and also well liked in my family)
I like it for productivity, holding up in the heat and generally long cropping, and crunch.
Here is a link that might be useful: oakleaf lettuce images
I have used buckwheat as a nurse crop for fall carrots, but planted it ahead of the carrots, so that the carrots were sown in openings made in the buckwheat planting. This worked quite well, since buckwheat is so easy to pull out and compost.
It looks trashy, but I cover my summer-sown carrot bed with a wire fencing arch topped with an old sheet, attached with clothespins. It's fully ventilated but provides enough shade to get the seeds up and growing. After mid-August, the carrots want full sun.
I have hoops taken off the strawberries, have old sheets (have to see if long enough) just thought wet burlap would be better on the hot days instead of hoops and white sheets.
Left the burlap off yesterday AM - hope they haven't burned up today but it's not that hot, did get sunny (but they're in east bed with tall tomatoes to west).
Since this is in tunnel I was looking for cash crop not cover crop.
Hi Hi~ Just want to let you know that I follow your advice to thin out my lettuce. Just now when I tried to picked some of them, I realised there were few leaves which were burnt or eaten by bugs, but when I removed those leaves, I found the lovely green crunchy heart inside and they were huge and bugs free! Thank you so much again!!!
Boron deficiency is rare. I expect your problem began with stressing your plants by moving them. I don't know where you are, but unless you are a frigid far northern state cauliflower will not head properly at summer temps. Broccoli is a bit more tolerant, but still quits in midsummer. In both cases you are eating the flower heads, but you do want them to form properly and quickly. If your are does indeed have boron deficiency ( ask your Ag extension agent) a sprinkling of 20 mule team borax will solve the problem for next year. Nothing you can do about now. Make sure tho, too much boron is worse than not enough.
Thanks! I am in Wisconsin. My neighbor also has brown cauliflower (and did not move hers). I suspect it makes sense it was the heat/move. All this did happens when we finally got some sunshine up here. Of course, then my eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes got their grove on. I also think that the squash plants were giving the brassicas more shade that they liked. I am not sure if they are "bolting" but they are both growing heads. The cauliflower is bigger than the broccoli. I am happy though I will be able to still eat them.
Note that that 'instructable' does not show any pictures of onions grown by this method. You will get onion leaves but as a way of producing bulb onions it's highly suspect.
'You can theoretically create an endless supply of onions without ever having to buy bulbs or seeds,' This is nonsense imo.
gator5774 if you seriously want to grow usable onions, rather than indulge in a a fun experiment out of curiosity, buy seed or sets and find out how to do it properly.
I've had more luck starting cucumbers in pots and transplanting them into a different part of the field (away from any existing cucumber plants) a few weeks later. I keep them under row cover until the plants are full of flowers.
Disease can spread from the existing plants to the new seedlings, and if cucumber beetles are an issue for you they may infect your new plants with bacterial wilt before they've had much chance to grow. That's what happened to me last year, even though my new seedlings were under row cover - I had planted them in the same row as my existing cucumber plants. The beetles either made their way under the cover or they were already in the soil.
It's going better this year, but it's just a constant battle with cucumbers.
I think most of you were right about the roof rats! I think this is a roof rat, right? Doesnt look like a vole. My TomCat caught one today and the bugger ate the very last plump tomato as well. Seems like they are voracious eaters!! TomCat will be back!
This post was edited by djkj on Thu, Jul 24, 14 at 12:24
The main penalty of letting eggplants stay on the vine to long is that the seeds develop, and seedy eggplants aren't as nice to eat. Pick one and look at the seeds. If they are getting big, then pick the rest. If not, then leave the others on.
These are actually outdoors. I have them set up out on the lanai. Temperatures here have been ranging between upper 70's to lower-mid 80's. Attached is a pic of what it looks like early in the morning. Much more sun will hit it during the mid day. If that's still too warm for lettuce to grow, can anything be done to compensate for the heat?
I've used Miraclegro seed starting mix in the seedling tray, and Organic Choice Potting Mix for this larger pot.
My peppers are looking better than they were last summer, with it so wet last June, but only the Hinkelhatz (PA Dutch variety cold-weather tolerant) have a couple pods. The tomatoes look great - but are slow to set fruit. The cucurbits are really slow - zukes just this week, yellow squash (Early Prolific - not this year!) are still a couple days away from picking the first one, and bush cukes maybe next week. Little Leaf cukes are even slower. 1 tiny cantaloupe the size of a ping-pong ball, and the watermelon plants have stalled out at about 8" diameter.
Time to plant the fall crops now...
Indeed! My mouth is watering right now from your picture...
I know the seedlings should be 1 foot apart, but would it be ok if they were closer? I want to have them trailing off of the back of the bed below. There's plenty of space for the plants to sprawl, but not for them to grow in the bed...
Immunox is good at preventing powdery mildew but not downy mildew, which despite the name is an entirely different disease.
A mix of chlorothanolil and mancozeb is probably as effective as anything against it. But this is another of the diseases that it's easier to prevent than cure.
I have always had to train my cucumbers on a trellis. They've never trellised by themselves.
I get them started at the bottom, then they go on from there pretty much by themselves. Who knows, maybe I got them off to a Southeast start! :)