23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Hi Hi~ Just want to let you know that I follow your advice to thin out my lettuce. Just now when I tried to picked some of them, I realised there were few leaves which were burnt or eaten by bugs, but when I removed those leaves, I found the lovely green crunchy heart inside and they were huge and bugs free! Thank you so much again!!!

Good stuff. Have you sowed more to keep up a succession?

Boron deficiency is rare. I expect your problem began with stressing your plants by moving them. I don't know where you are, but unless you are a frigid far northern state cauliflower will not head properly at summer temps. Broccoli is a bit more tolerant, but still quits in midsummer. In both cases you are eating the flower heads, but you do want them to form properly and quickly. If your are does indeed have boron deficiency ( ask your Ag extension agent) a sprinkling of 20 mule team borax will solve the problem for next year. Nothing you can do about now. Make sure tho, too much boron is worse than not enough.

Thanks! I am in Wisconsin. My neighbor also has brown cauliflower (and did not move hers). I suspect it makes sense it was the heat/move. All this did happens when we finally got some sunshine up here. Of course, then my eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes got their grove on. I also think that the squash plants were giving the brassicas more shade that they liked. I am not sure if they are "bolting" but they are both growing heads. The cauliflower is bigger than the broccoli. I am happy though I will be able to still eat them.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Grow-Onions-from-Discarded-Onion-Bottoms/

Note that that 'instructable' does not show any pictures of onions grown by this method. You will get onion leaves but as a way of producing bulb onions it's highly suspect.

'You can theoretically create an endless supply of onions without ever having to buy bulbs or seeds,' This is nonsense imo.

gator5774 if you seriously want to grow usable onions, rather than indulge in a a fun experiment out of curiosity, buy seed or sets and find out how to do it properly.

I think most of you were right about the roof rats! I think this is a roof rat, right? Doesnt look like a vole. My TomCat caught one today and the bugger ate the very last plump tomato as well. Seems like they are voracious eaters!! TomCat will be back!

This post was edited by djkj on Thu, Jul 24, 14 at 12:24

Not sure if I understand the term "roof rat" as used by several West Coast posters, to me that always meant squirrels? That looks like a black rat, in which case you can bet there are more of them.

You can certainly pick them now if you wish but to answer your original question as farmerdill said, we would need to see a picture and know the variety.

The main penalty of letting eggplants stay on the vine to long is that the seeds develop, and seedy eggplants aren't as nice to eat. Pick one and look at the seeds. If they are getting big, then pick the rest. If not, then leave the others on.

These are actually outdoors. I have them set up out on the lanai. Temperatures here have been ranging between upper 70's to lower-mid 80's. Attached is a pic of what it looks like early in the morning. Much more sun will hit it during the mid day. If that's still too warm for lettuce to grow, can anything be done to compensate for the heat?

I've used Miraclegro seed starting mix in the seedling tray, and Organic Choice Potting Mix for this larger pot.

They look ok to me, maybe a little crowded if you want full heads. Keep them well watered and fed and give them lots of sun.

The wetness has caused some issues especially with the peppers.

The spring had extreme temperatures in both directions no one seemed to enjoy it, except my cucurbits didn't seem to mind the cold as long as it wasn't too consistent.

My peppers are looking better than they were last summer, with it so wet last June, but only the Hinkelhatz (PA Dutch variety cold-weather tolerant) have a couple pods. The tomatoes look great - but are slow to set fruit. The cucurbits are really slow - zukes just this week, yellow squash (Early Prolific - not this year!) are still a couple days away from picking the first one, and bush cukes maybe next week. Little Leaf cukes are even slower. 1 tiny cantaloupe the size of a ping-pong ball, and the watermelon plants have stalled out at about 8" diameter.

Time to plant the fall crops now...

Indeed! My mouth is watering right now from your picture...

I know the seedlings should be 1 foot apart, but would it be ok if they were closer? I want to have them trailing off of the back of the bed below. There's plenty of space for the plants to sprawl, but not for them to grow in the bed...

I had a beautiful Family Fun melon rot on the vine. What could cause that and how can I prevent my remaining watermelons from suffering the same result.

Agree - Downey Mildew.

Dave

Immunox is good at preventing powdery mildew but not downy mildew, which despite the name is an entirely different disease.

A mix of chlorothanolil and mancozeb is probably as effective as anything against it. But this is another of the diseases that it's easier to prevent than cure.

The Other pic that did not post

Here is a link that might be useful: GardenWeb

Ok, the size difference with your peppers is likely due to a difference in heat. The bucket on has soil that warmed faster, so it put on a good spurt of earlier growth than the ones in the ground. Why did the watering issue go from fine to death overnight? I think you were probably flirting around the edge of disaster for a while, then just hit the critical point. The fact that there was any standing water at all is pretty telling. Standing water in any pot is a no-no for any plant that doesn't naturally live in a pond or bog.

Also, I think you are asking how can the plants have droopy leaves from both underwatering and overwatering. Well, plant leaves get their rigidity by being pumped full of water. When they don't have enough, they go limp, pretty straightforward. The thing is when they get overwatered, the roots die. The roots are where the water comes into the plant, so without enough roots to do the job, the top needs more water than the remaining roots can supply, and voila, droopy. Hope this helps.

Next time when you plant zucchinis take in consideration their love to the sun - they always "walk" toward the sun. So if you plant them on the edge, make sure that morning sun is from the side of the edge.

A high wind last nite shifted my #2 zuke so far it pulled the tulle cover right out from its anchors. Seems fine now, though.

There's a period when the leaves are large enough to work like sails but the vine hasn't yet set secondary roots to anchor it into the soil. Anyway, planting zukes should give them a chance to get those secondary roots down as soon as possible.

True of most squash,.

I am in the southeast - south Georgia about 10 miles from the Florida line. I will check out those varieties (and if anyone has spares they want to send me, just holler :-)).

Thanks!

I find diplomat, gypsy, and marathon to all give me huge heads, tight beads, and great taste.