23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Just sow them in the ground and you can always thin them later

Since they're wet and sprouted, maybe fluid seeding would be easier: http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/4DMG/VegFruit/fliud.htm

That's what those spots looked like to me. Webbing/cocoons. But the OP said it looked like mold. Brownish edges around older cuke leaves is normal for me. Nothing really wrong there. Some minor stress.

the narrow white edges are likely due to water shortage a while ago.

Thanks again!

I grow butter crunch in that "blanket" seed pattern, because I like to do that with all my lettuces and I like the taste of butter crunch. So I use the method Lone Jack suggested at first, of thinning with scissors when it's big enough to eat.

Well, I'll be in Oregon in late July, and we traditionally pick lots of (non-wild) blueberries, and make jam, pies, etc. So I think I'll be up to my neck in them by then. I really really really wish I could have blueberries down here, but the alkaline soil (not badly alkaline, just not enough acid) won't let me. I am delighted to learn, however, that blackberries grow just fine here, and I have put in a stand of Natchez that are going great guns. Probably should have put them in tires!

Yumm, lucky you! We get just get muscadine grapes (sour).... We do have alot of edible mushrooms spring and fall though (do not attempt unless you have mycology club experience)..

Could you please tell me what is good food for carrots and is it too late should I start more? They germinate relatively quickly.

Any of the many common vegetable fertilizers will work. Whether it is too late or not depends on what sort of and how much soil prep you did in advance of planting and even more on if you thinned them out properly.

Unfortunately, as with successfully growing most any vegetables, some preparation in advance is needed. The type needed depends on if you are growing in the ground or in a container. There are lots of good guides on "how-to grow carrots" available and many discussions on this forum the search will pull up for more details.

How to Grow Carrots

Dave

Yes, they do squeeze under. and total destruction is more commonly associated with groundhogs. No one said it was easy. Any gardener worth his salt will tell you that to garden you need absolutely three things: sun, water, and a strong fence.

I am going to robust up the fence some this weekend. Hopefully it isn't too late. I know he'd eat my tomatoes and peas no problem. I can't do it all the way around though without pulling up good stuff. Hopefully he won't try to come around the front.

Thanks all. I dug up a little and see a sweet potatoe. Not sure how it got there though.

sometimes serendipity is beautiful

Looks like leaf miner damage, to me.

I second the leaf miner possibility. I've had my first experience with those just last week. That was my suspicion, and I picked some and soaked it for a couple hours (mostly because I was busy doing something else and I left it there). When I took the leaves out of the bowl, I had some drowned larvae in the bottom of the bowl.

Sluggo plus works well and is organic.

In my garden in Colorado, they used to eat the bean seedlings right after they sprouted. I saw them on the sprouts and never saw any evidence of a slug there at all. Now that I'm in WA though, slugs are my problem and I don't think the pillbugs misbehave too much. Then again, I have had to use Sluggo while stuff is little otherwise nothing would survive.

Once my Colorado beans made it long enough to have a couple of leaves, they were fine. I never did treat them with anything, I just replanted.

I am not sunflower expert but some plants need the ants, like Peonies to open their flower buds.

I have one pic of an unopened sunflower blossom and can count over 50 little red ants on it. They have never done a bit of harm that I can tell so won't agree on any need to kill them off.
And if you have holes like this, it's birds.

I didn't think the seeds were that small. Oregano seeds on the other hand....

For curiosity's sake I'm going to wait and see, but I'll start another round with less fertilizer as suggested earlier.

Sounds like a plan, let us know which which makes the best carrots

I like New Red Fire -- crisp ruffled leaves tinged with red. It's very slow to bolt and tastes sweet even when you get a little white milk in the stem.

Any lettuce harvested as micro greens can be sweet. You can do that in a little Rubbermaid tub or pot.

That's exactly what I do with my garlic to squash planting. I pull a few to early eat in the center of my garlic patches creating a space big enough to plant a hill of squash. By the time the squash is getting any size, the garlic is ready to pull.

I'm a bit warmer then you but I succession garden almost year round with the help of some creative hot beds, row covers, frost covers, etc. Last week I was harvesting lettices, mustards, kale fennel, cilantro and such from my Fall planting. This week the weather isn't being nice so am pretty sure it's the end!

I am developing a tool that helps plan succession planting - its a little theoretical at this point (the very cold May in Chicago has disrupted my succession plans for the radish), but should provide a starting point. It is at http://www.edenpatch.com.

I am researching using Growing Degree Days to estimate maturity instead of the usual ranges, would be interested in hearing if others have tried that.

Would appreciate any other comments or feedback also!

Johnny's suggests 2" spacing for bush beans.

You could probably leave them and they will do fine.

Hopefully someone with more experience can give you their advice.

For the first few pics, I'd wait till they are taller/bigger. At this stage, they are still vulnerable to snails, pillbugs, even birds that come in and around the seedlings.

For the last pic, they are ready to be thinned out, but I would not thin out based on leaves touching each other or being near each other. I would thin out based on the estimated root width. If that is unknown, then go with the suggestions on the packet or others who have grown similar plants.